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Helicoil Repair

vdotmatrix

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While removing a valve cover gasket on my motocycle I notice that one screw stopped coming out.
I read that the solution is a helicoil repair.
this is an M6x1 screw.
Any recommendations for this repair.
thank you.IMG_0022.jpeg
 
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vdotmatrix

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Stay away from heli coils on valve covers...id go with the time sert,or time sert knock off. Red loctite and time sert.
Ok, big thanks. Our diesel mechanic family friend said the same thing. Helicoil brand removes a lot of material. Non-helicoil brand better and then thread lock like you said. Researching time sert now. I appreciate your response because This is all very new to me and a critical repair.
 

cgrutt

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Hope you are buying a new bolt/part for that. Not much left on the threads. Keep in mind red loctite will be more or less a permanent repair (you can remove them but it will need a torch).
 

zmotorsports

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Stay away from heli coils on valve covers...id go with the time sert,or time sert knock off. Red loctite and time sert.

Can I ask why? I have repaired multiple 6.0 Powerstroke valve cover retaining holes with Helicoils just fine. They work great and have not had any issues afterwards. Had to make an install tool from a short bolt for a couple of the back ones, but never an issue and I've probably done at least 15 or so over the past several years.
 

zmotorsports

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Generally so but it gives a better " purchase" into the base material giving better prevention against stripping in the future.

I used to think that, until I did some testing to discover that I had better luck with the Helicoil's in general. I used to build a lot of 2-stroke and VW engines and did a lot of in-house side by side comparisons back in the 90's and I had multiple Timeserts pull out where the Helicoil's continued to hold well past their "normal" fastener size torque applications.
 

Jure

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Can I ask why? I have repaired multiple 6.0 Powerstroke valve cover retaining holes with Helicoils just fine. They work great and have not had any issues afterwards. Had to make an install tool from a short bolt for a couple of the back ones, but never an issue and I've probably done at least 15 or so over the past several years.
Had one on the oil pan drain plug,red loctite and helicoil. When bike was hot,oil somehow found its way between helicoil and the pan hole where the coil has been threaded in. I did made a mistake when using it on the oil plug. 2nd,failure was on the swingarm,chain tensioner slide hole. Threds stripped after some time.
 

zmotorsports

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Had one on the oil pan drain plug,red loctite and helicoil. When bike was hot,oil somehow found its way between helicoil and the pan hole where the coil has been threaded in. I did made a mistake when using it on the oil plug. 2nd,failure was on the swingarm,chain tensioner slide hole. Threds stripped after some time.

That sounds more like an isolated situation actually. Not sure I'd make a blanket response to never use them on a valve cover based on that situation. I have had the exact opposite experiences and have had successful repairs of threads on dozens of similar situations to the OP.
 

Jure

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That sounds more like an isolated situation actually. Not sure I'd make a blanket response to never use them on a valve cover based on that situation. I have had the exact opposite experiences and have had successful repairs of threads on dozens of similar situations to the OP.
Yea,it might be an isolated situation(s). I just have more "trust" in solid machined one piece sleeve than i do in piece of coil. But like i said,its just my personal preference.
 

Steve_P

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I've used both methods successfully. The key lock type solid inserts take up much more real estate but are easier to install IMO. IIRC there are online tests showing that helicoils are actually stronger than the key lock inserts.

Personally, I prefer helicoils as they give a cleaner looking repair and work just about everywhere because of the small OD. If the OP goes that method, buy the kit with the installation tool with it.
 
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vdotmatrix

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That sounds more like an isolated situation actually. Not sure I'd make a blanket response to never use them on a valve cover based on that situation. I have had the exact opposite experiences and have had successful repairs of threads on dozens of similar situations to the OP.
Uggggggg.
 

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Rusted Nut

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You may very well be able to tap the hole for an M6.5; rather than Helicoil or Timesert, both of which will leave less parent material.
 

Rusted Nut

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After seeing the photo, I would tap it; or weld it full and tap it. Not much meat there for threaded insert.
 
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SusKatCas

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I've used both methods successfully. The key lock type solid inserts take up much more real estate but are easier to install IMO. IIRC there are online tests showing that helicoils are actually stronger than the key lock inserts.

Personally, I prefer helicoils as they give a cleaner looking repair and work just about everywhere because of the small OD. If the OP goes that method, buy the kit with the installation tool with it.
In my opinion, repairing the first time with a Heli-coil allows future option for a repair with a solid insert. Most of us don't keep stuff long enough to see iteration #2 but it is a nice "defense in depth" option.
 

RoninB4

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-There may not be enough material in the wall thickness for a time-sert, the OP will have to measure with a caliper to determine this. IIRC a heli-coil is a little smaller in diameter than the time-sert.

-I've done many repairs using both heli-coils and time-serts, I don't particularly like the heli-coils for applications like the OP has. My dislike is because for fasteners that have frequent in/out maintenance cycles the heli-coil has an annoying habit of coming out with the fastener. I have tried, repeatedly, to thoroughly clean the hole and install with the factory driver that imbeds the "tang" into the side of the hole. It even became a challenge to me to make these work properly. After several attempts the coil would always come out after a few in/out cycles as part of regular die/mold maintenance. I also don't really like the idea of using Loctite on the heli-coil due to concern that the threadlocker will seep to the inside of the coil and end up on the fastener. It can be done properly but being careful is important here. Would suggest NOT using permanent thread locker, favor using the removeable (blue) in place of red. If the fastener doesn't ever have to be removed then my previous comments don't matter.

-The insert I prefer, if there's enough room for it, is the Keensert with the locking stakes. No coming back out, no Loctite needed. JMO
 

zmotorsports

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-There may not be enough material in the wall thickness for a time-sert, the OP will have to measure with a caliper to determine this. IIRC a heli-coil is a little smaller in diameter than the time-sert.

-I've done many repairs using both heli-coils and time-serts, I don't particularly like the heli-coils for applications like the OP has. My dislike is because for fasteners that have frequent in/out maintenance cycles the heli-coil has an annoying habit of coming out with the fastener. I have tried, repeatedly, to thoroughly clean the hole and install with the factory driver that imbeds the "tang" into the side of the hole. It even became a challenge to me to make these work properly. After several attempts the coil would always come out after a few in/out cycles as part of regular die/mold maintenance. I also don't really like the idea of using Loctite on the heli-coil due to concern that the threadlocker will seep to the inside of the coil and end up on the fastener. It can be done properly but being careful is important here. Would suggest NOT using permanent thread locker, favor using the removeable (blue) in place of red. If the fastener doesn't ever have to be removed then my previous comments don't matter.

-The insert I prefer, if there's enough room for it, is the Keensert with the locking stakes. No coming back out, no Loctite needed. JMO

I would agree generally, however, in certain applications I still prefer to use some red thread retaining compound, however, after installing the insert and removing the tool, I will let it sit (preferably overnight) and then run a tap through the insert merely to clean up the thread retaining compound that may have migrated to the inside of the insert. I have had excellent results with this method, even for repeated fastener installation/removal.
 

rd65

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Typically, on a motorcycle the valve cover bolts have shoulder that will seat on the surface to keep you from pushing out the gasket. Low torque on the bolts, either type of repair should be sufficient. Personally, I have always used Time-Serts where I have the room.
 

RoninB4

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I would agree generally, however, in certain applications I still prefer to use some red thread retaining compound, however, after installing the insert and removing the tool, I will let it sit (preferably overnight) and then run a tap through the insert merely to clean up the thread retaining compound that may have migrated to the inside of the insert. I have had excellent results with this method, even for repeated fastener installation/removal.
-Doing the re-tap would have been my suggestion too but I've already clogged the bandwidth with my long winded explanations far too often. The heat generated by injection molds might have softened a thread-locking agent enough to allow the coil to back out (maybe not). I'll readily admit that I lacked the nerve to take a chance on destroying an injection mold that cost more than several years earnings. I either used a Keensert of talked the boss into welding the hole up for drill/tap. I guess he didn't want to gamble either after I described the potential carnage. I appreciate you sharing your real world experiences.
 

KnurledNut

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I would agree generally, however, in certain applications I still prefer to use some red thread retaining compound, however, after installing the insert and removing the tool, I will let it sit (preferably overnight) and then run a tap through the insert merely to clean up the thread retaining compound that may have migrated to the inside of the insert. I have had excellent results with this method, even for repeated fastener installation/removal.
I too have had good success with Helicoil on rocker covers and other applications. I moved away from using any threadlocker as I found the contact of the bare insert to the base material keeps tighter tolerances and prevents any interference with the friction retention thats designed to keep it in place. On applications that need potential removal I will use anti-seize on the bolt after insert installation, which also lowers galling issues with the stainless helicoil.
Keep in mind with a Helicoil virtually no stress is introduced into the parent material because their is no staking.
With a TIME-SERT, the bottom few internal threads of the insert are cold rolled to expand into the mating external threads of the base material locking the insert in place.
On a thinwalled hole, this may create detrimental stress.
 
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lund

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Stay away from heli coils on valve covers...id go with the time sert,or time sert knock off. Red loctite and time sert.
I second this. Time Serts with locktite (careful to get only on the outer surface!) are very good. Make sure you take things apart enough to do a good clean job and start the hole normal. I used some of these on small diameter valve cover studs for a Honda Civic engine with an Al block and it came out very well. Better than new strength since steel is much more durable for threads in small diameters than Aluminum.
 

whateg01

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these isn’t indicative of a failed helicoil that I was not aware of right?

IMG_0026.jpeg
Are you asking if it was already repaired? No, those are the threads out of the aluminum head.

- My dislike is because for fasteners that have frequent in/out maintenance cycles the heli-coil has an annoying habit of coming out with the fastener.
I haven't had any issues if I use red loctite. I still try to do machined inserts of some sort of possible though.
 

rlitman

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...I haven't had any issues if I use red loctite...
Assuming you're talking about using red on a helicoil, I can't say I'd recommend that. Helicoils are stainless, so without using an activating primer, they don't adhere well to anaerobic thread locking compounds. They're also not leakproof, so no matter how careful you are, some of the red will work it's way to the inner part. I also think part of the magic of a helicoil is it's ability to shift in the hole while it bridges the gap between the inner and outer threads, and thread locker could make things worse.

If you're only worried about the helicoil backing out, you could use a small chisel to impress a mark on the outermost female thread that catches on the end of the coil.

And if the insert needs to be a gas-tight seal, then helicoils aren't the right tool for the job.
 

rd65

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these isn’t indicative of a failed helicoil that I was not aware of right?

IMG_0026.jpeg
No, that's indicative of someone overtightening trying to stop the gasket from leaking after it has aged and shrunk. Replace those grommets as well as the gasket. You got lucky and only the threads pulled out, I have seen those bolts get overzealously tightened and cracking the head.
 
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vdotmatrix

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No, that's indicative of someone overtightening trying to stop the gasket from leaking after it has aged and shrunk. Replace those grommets as well as the gasket. You got lucky and only the threads pulled out, I have seen those bolts get overzealously tightened and cracking the head.
I wonder how the heck i allowed this to happen.
 

RoninB4

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I wonder how the heck i allowed this to happen.
-Things like that have happened to all of us that:

1) Have enough past experience for mistakes like that to happen to

2) Are willing to admit it (no witnesses = no mistakes)

-Don't let it bother you too much, you've just had a learning experience you'll remember. How do you think the rest of us learned? At least this one is a relatively easy repair. Got calipers to measure the wall thickness so you can decide which insert to use?
 
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vdotmatrix

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-Things like that have happened to all of us that:

1) Have enough past experience for mistakes like that to happen to

2) Are willing to admit it (no witnesses = no mistakes)

-Don't let it bother you too much, you've just had a learning experience you'll remember. How do you think the rest of us learned? At least this one is a relatively easy repair. Got calipers to measure the wall thickness so you can decide which insert to use?
Oh yes….but it shave the aluminum so evenly….
 

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rust in the eye

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No, that's indicative of someone overtightening trying to stop the gasket from leaking after it has aged and shrunk. Replace those grommets as well as the gasket. You got lucky and only the threads pulled out, I have seen those bolts get overzealously tightened and cracking the head.
Agreed about the rock hard grommet but cracking the head with an M6 bolt?? I think we see the consequences.
The grommet looks perhaps integral with the bolt and probably $$, hence the heroic effort.
All speculation of course from where I sit.
 

BillK

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Helicoil brand removes a lot of material.
Thats funny. Helicoil taps are exactly the same size as Timesert Taps. I personally probably use 5-6 8MM x 1.25 helicoils every week fixing exhaust manifold bolt holes in late model Hemi and LS aluminum cylinder heads.

I also use Timeserts for certain applications. I have a tool box drawer full of both types.
Timeserts are a lot more expensive that Helicoils.

Timeserts also need a little more room around them because of the flange on the top.

Personally for a valve cover bolt i would use a Helicoil
 

PCustoms

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Why do those bolts have such a sharp point?
 
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