Ok, big thanks. Our diesel mechanic family friend said the same thing. Helicoil brand removes a lot of material. Non-helicoil brand better and then thread lock like you said. Researching time sert now. I appreciate your response because This is all very new to me and a critical repair.Stay away from heli coils on valve covers...id go with the time sert,or time sert knock off. Red loctite and time sert.
The closer I look at that bolt the more it looks like the threads are fine (?) but just packed with aluminum from the stripped hole it came out of.
Red loctite on the time sert sleeve,not the boltHope you are buying a new bolt/part for that. Not much left on the threads. Keep in mind red loctite will be more or less a permanent repair (you can remove them but it will need a torch).
Stay away from heli coils on valve covers...id go with the time sert,or time sert knock off. Red loctite and time sert.
Generally so but it gives a better " purchase" into the base material giving better prevention against stripping in the future.Doesn't a timesert remove more material than a helicoil repair?
Generally so but it gives a better " purchase" into the base material giving better prevention against stripping in the future.
Had one on the oil pan drain plug,red loctite and helicoil. When bike was hot,oil somehow found its way between helicoil and the pan hole where the coil has been threaded in. I did made a mistake when using it on the oil plug. 2nd,failure was on the swingarm,chain tensioner slide hole. Threds stripped after some time.Can I ask why? I have repaired multiple 6.0 Powerstroke valve cover retaining holes with Helicoils just fine. They work great and have not had any issues afterwards. Had to make an install tool from a short bolt for a couple of the back ones, but never an issue and I've probably done at least 15 or so over the past several years.
Had one on the oil pan drain plug,red loctite and helicoil. When bike was hot,oil somehow found its way between helicoil and the pan hole where the coil has been threaded in. I did made a mistake when using it on the oil plug. 2nd,failure was on the swingarm,chain tensioner slide hole. Threds stripped after some time.
Yea,it might be an isolated situation(s). I just have more "trust" in solid machined one piece sleeve than i do in piece of coil. But like i said,its just my personal preference.That sounds more like an isolated situation actually. Not sure I'd make a blanket response to never use them on a valve cover based on that situation. I have had the exact opposite experiences and have had successful repairs of threads on dozens of similar situations to the OP.
Uggggggg.That sounds more like an isolated situation actually. Not sure I'd make a blanket response to never use them on a valve cover based on that situation. I have had the exact opposite experiences and have had successful repairs of threads on dozens of similar situations to the OP.
In my opinion, repairing the first time with a Heli-coil allows future option for a repair with a solid insert. Most of us don't keep stuff long enough to see iteration #2 but it is a nice "defense in depth" option.I've used both methods successfully. The key lock type solid inserts take up much more real estate but are easier to install IMO. IIRC there are online tests showing that helicoils are actually stronger than the key lock inserts.
Personally, I prefer helicoils as they give a cleaner looking repair and work just about everywhere because of the small OD. If the OP goes that method, buy the kit with the installation tool with it.
-There may not be enough material in the wall thickness for a time-sert, the OP will have to measure with a caliper to determine this. IIRC a heli-coil is a little smaller in diameter than the time-sert.
-I've done many repairs using both heli-coils and time-serts, I don't particularly like the heli-coils for applications like the OP has. My dislike is because for fasteners that have frequent in/out maintenance cycles the heli-coil has an annoying habit of coming out with the fastener. I have tried, repeatedly, to thoroughly clean the hole and install with the factory driver that imbeds the "tang" into the side of the hole. It even became a challenge to me to make these work properly. After several attempts the coil would always come out after a few in/out cycles as part of regular die/mold maintenance. I also don't really like the idea of using Loctite on the heli-coil due to concern that the threadlocker will seep to the inside of the coil and end up on the fastener. It can be done properly but being careful is important here. Would suggest NOT using permanent thread locker, favor using the removeable (blue) in place of red. If the fastener doesn't ever have to be removed then my previous comments don't matter.
-The insert I prefer, if there's enough room for it, is the Keensert with the locking stakes. No coming back out, no Loctite needed. JMO
-Doing the re-tap would have been my suggestion too but I've already clogged the bandwidth with my long winded explanations far too often. The heat generated by injection molds might have softened a thread-locking agent enough to allow the coil to back out (maybe not). I'll readily admit that I lacked the nerve to take a chance on destroying an injection mold that cost more than several years earnings. I either used a Keensert of talked the boss into welding the hole up for drill/tap. I guess he didn't want to gamble either after I described the potential carnage. I appreciate you sharing your real world experiences.I would agree generally, however, in certain applications I still prefer to use some red thread retaining compound, however, after installing the insert and removing the tool, I will let it sit (preferably overnight) and then run a tap through the insert merely to clean up the thread retaining compound that may have migrated to the inside of the insert. I have had excellent results with this method, even for repeated fastener installation/removal.
I too have had good success with Helicoil on rocker covers and other applications. I moved away from using any threadlocker as I found the contact of the bare insert to the base material keeps tighter tolerances and prevents any interference with the friction retention thats designed to keep it in place. On applications that need potential removal I will use anti-seize on the bolt after insert installation, which also lowers galling issues with the stainless helicoil.I would agree generally, however, in certain applications I still prefer to use some red thread retaining compound, however, after installing the insert and removing the tool, I will let it sit (preferably overnight) and then run a tap through the insert merely to clean up the thread retaining compound that may have migrated to the inside of the insert. I have had excellent results with this method, even for repeated fastener installation/removal.
I second this. Time Serts with locktite (careful to get only on the outer surface!) are very good. Make sure you take things apart enough to do a good clean job and start the hole normal. I used some of these on small diameter valve cover studs for a Honda Civic engine with an Al block and it came out very well. Better than new strength since steel is much more durable for threads in small diameters than Aluminum.Stay away from heli coils on valve covers...id go with the time sert,or time sert knock off. Red loctite and time sert.
Are you asking if it was already repaired? No, those are the threads out of the aluminum head.
I haven't had any issues if I use red loctite. I still try to do machined inserts of some sort of possible though.- My dislike is because for fasteners that have frequent in/out maintenance cycles the heli-coil has an annoying habit of coming out with the fastener.
Assuming you're talking about using red on a helicoil, I can't say I'd recommend that. Helicoils are stainless, so without using an activating primer, they don't adhere well to anaerobic thread locking compounds. They're also not leakproof, so no matter how careful you are, some of the red will work it's way to the inner part. I also think part of the magic of a helicoil is it's ability to shift in the hole while it bridges the gap between the inner and outer threads, and thread locker could make things worse....I haven't had any issues if I use red loctite...
No, that's indicative of someone overtightening trying to stop the gasket from leaking after it has aged and shrunk. Replace those grommets as well as the gasket. You got lucky and only the threads pulled out, I have seen those bolts get overzealously tightened and cracking the head.
I wonder how the heck i allowed this to happen.No, that's indicative of someone overtightening trying to stop the gasket from leaking after it has aged and shrunk. Replace those grommets as well as the gasket. You got lucky and only the threads pulled out, I have seen those bolts get overzealously tightened and cracking the head.
-Things like that have happened to all of us that:I wonder how the heck i allowed this to happen.
Oh yes….but it shave the aluminum so evenly….-Things like that have happened to all of us that:
1) Have enough past experience for mistakes like that to happen to
2) Are willing to admit it (no witnesses = no mistakes)
-Don't let it bother you too much, you've just had a learning experience you'll remember. How do you think the rest of us learned? At least this one is a relatively easy repair. Got calipers to measure the wall thickness so you can decide which insert to use?
Agreed about the rock hard grommet but cracking the head with an M6 bolt?? I think we see the consequences.No, that's indicative of someone overtightening trying to stop the gasket from leaking after it has aged and shrunk. Replace those grommets as well as the gasket. You got lucky and only the threads pulled out, I have seen those bolts get overzealously tightened and cracking the head.
Thats funny. Helicoil taps are exactly the same size as Timesert Taps. I personally probably use 5-6 8MM x 1.25 helicoils every week fixing exhaust manifold bolt holes in late model Hemi and LS aluminum cylinder heads.Helicoil brand removes a lot of material.
The bolt is in perfect shape.Hope you are buying a new bolt/part for that. Not much left on the threads. Keep in mind red loctite will be more or less a permanent repair (you can remove them but it will need a torch).