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Hellfire floor coating experience

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mmhouse

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 31, 2008
Messages
754
Location
Desert Southwest
I am very interested in the Hellfire product and have a question.....

I have a 10+ year-old bare concrete floor with wide and deep v-trowled (not saw cut) expansion joints. When I moved in 5 years ago I filled the joints with Sikaflex because they were ugly and made perfect homes for insects, dirt, etc.

If I were to use the Hellfire on my floor would it adhere to the Sikaflex? What if any special prep would be needed?
 
L

LegacyIndustrial

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Joined
Jun 7, 2010
Messages
7,993
Location
deerfield, IL
mmhouse said:
I am very interested in the Hellfire product and have a question.....

I have a 10+ year-old bare concrete floor with wide and deep v-trowled (not saw cut) expansion joints. When I moved in 5 years ago I filled the joints with Sikaflex because they were ugly and made perfect homes for insects, dirt, etc.

If I were to use the Hellfire on my floor would it adhere to the Sikaflex? What if any special prep would be needed?
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I would never recommend coating over a flexible product, it is likely to flex and crack the coating at some point in the future.

You could tape it off.


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app
 
D

Deplorable

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Joined
Nov 12, 2018
Messages
15
Location
NC
LegacyIndustrial said:
We now have the ability to supply a tint-pack to make a darker product (mix in the field).
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Can more than one tint pack be used to make it even darker? Wouldn’t go over board, but if two ounces is good, would four be better on the final coat if one wants a darker floor?
 
C

CS223

Active member
Joined
Feb 24, 2015
Messages
25
Can you describe the recommended acid etch process? I’m concerned that there would be a rust issue with machinery or anything else that is in the building in an area not being etched as a result of the vapor given off during the etching. I’m making the assumption that muriatic acid is what is used.
 
B

bullnerd

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Sep 17, 2012
Messages
5,690
Location
Jersey
CS223 said:
Can you describe the recommended acid etch process? I’m concerned that there would be a rust issue with machinery or anything else that is in the building in an area not being etched as a result of the vapor given off during the etching. I’m making the assumption that muriatic acid is what is used.
Click to expand...

Scotty from Legacy posted this in another thread,

http://www.legacyindustrial.net/pdf/HowtoAcidEtch.pdf
 
C

CS223

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Feb 24, 2015
Messages
25
bullnerd said:
Scotty from Legacy posted this in another thread,

http://www.legacyindustrial.net/pdf/HowtoAcidEtch.pdf
Click to expand...

Thanks. That concerns me with the probability of the acid getting under the j-trim where it attaches to the floor, under the support beams & around the j-bolts. Since the interior walls are finished, there’s no way to get flooding water in those areas. Not to mention the vapor which is corrosive especially to machinery with cast machine surfaces.
 
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bullnerd

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Location
Jersey
CS223 said:
Thanks. That concerns me with the probability of the acid getting under the j-trim where it attaches to the floor, under the support beams & around the j-bolts. Since the interior walls are finished, there’s no way to get flooding water in those areas. Not to mention the vapor which is corrosive especially to machinery with cast machine surfaces.
Click to expand...

Yeah, that's where I'm at right now.

I'm going to caulk the base molding to the floor and make sure I rinse it out real good.
 
S

Stefan S

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Joined
Sep 24, 2011
Messages
227
Location
Texas
What are the key differences performance wise between hellfire And GS8510. The floor was poured in1992 and I don’t know the history of sealers etc that might have been used.

I kinda like the look of the hellfire
 
L

LegacyIndustrial

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Jun 7, 2010
Messages
7,993
Location
deerfield, IL
Stefan S said:
What are the key differences performance wise between hellfire And GS8510. The floor was poured in1992 and I don’t know the history of sealers etc that might have been used.

I kinda like the look of the hellfire
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Stefan, Apples and Oranges.

Our product , HellFire, is a metal fortified, pigmented, urethane with outstanding chem& wear resistance.

The other product appears to be a penetrating sealant of some sort.

I like HellFire's looks too! :beer:
 
L

Lucid Moments

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Joined
Aug 9, 2015
Messages
1,775
Location
Gainesville, Ga
I'll throw up a couple of pics of my recently coated garage floor. This is 3 coats of Hellfire on a new slab with no grinding but acid etched.

I can vouch for the chemical resistance because gasoline, paint thinner, acetone, and xylene have not touched the coating I got on my hands. :lol_hitti If you put this on yourself be sure to wear gloves.
 

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L

LegacyIndustrial

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Jun 7, 2010
Messages
7,993
Location
deerfield, IL
Lucid Moments said:
I'll throw up a couple of pics of my recently coated garage floor. This is 3 coats of Hellfire on a new slab with no grinding but acid etched.

I can vouch for the chemical resistance because gasoline, paint thinner, acetone, and xylene have not touched the coating I got on my hands. :lol_hitti If you put this on yourself be sure to wear gloves.
Click to expand...

Looks great!
 
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kevost

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Joined
Jul 8, 2007
Messages
63
Location
Summerfield, Ks
Question about the HellFire, I would prefer gloss, but for the cost and durability I can probably get over it, but my question is regarding the "smoothness" of the coating. As in, does it sweep easily? I think the matte color of it is throwing me off and thinking that it may catch dirt and not sweep up dirt very easily. I like having a clean floor so having a gloss polyurea finish is probably second on my list after this.

Thanks
 
C

CS223

Active member
Joined
Feb 24, 2015
Messages
25
Coated the shop floor this weekend. Started two weeks earlier by acid etching the floor and using a 3M 7200 black stripper pad on a buffing machine working slowly with overlap while keeping the concrete damp. Then rinsed, and buffed some more to loosen any left over mud. We used a shop-vac with a squeegee attachment to vac up the water while rinsing. Repeated the buff and rinse until the water was clear. Used a brush to get in the corners and wall edges. Just a few example pics of what the process looked like.

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I left the A/C run continuously while keeping fans going to move air.

My associate had a real knack for laying down the product. After my ugly effort trying to work in tandem with the first coat, I resigned myself to rolling in the edges and staying out of his way. The small room is 10x21, the main room is 32x27. It took slightly more than 7 gallons to lay down 4 coats.

After the second coat we switched to the spike shoes which turned out to be more trouble than they were worth and we ugly'ed up a few spots. The floor was dry enough to walk on in two hours so for the third and forth coats we went back to the slip-on disposable booties waiting two hours between each coat.

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I'm extremely pleased with the end result. This was the standard color and it appears a little lighter in person. All the light overpowers the camera a bit. My main goal was a solvent resistant durable product that could take typical machine shop abuse, any cosmetics are secondary. My associate did an exemplary job laying down the product, and cosmetically it looks way better than I anticipated.
 
B

bullnerd

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Jersey
Looks great! Nice job.

Does your associate want to do mine for extra practice? lol!
 
T

T66sc3

Active member
Joined
Feb 10, 2019
Messages
35
Location
New Jersey
What product would you recommend to fill the control joint and small cracks in the cement before applying hellfire?
 
C

CS223

Active member
Joined
Feb 24, 2015
Messages
25
T66sc3 said:
What product would you recommend to fill the control joint and small cracks in the cement before applying hellfire?
Click to expand...

I used self leveling Sikaflex with backer rod which is made for that application. My expansion joints continued to move, one of which I cut out the sealant and re-caulked. It takes a week for the Sikaflex to cure. It’s a polyurethane product.
 
G

Gnfantic

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Joined
Mar 24, 2017
Messages
253
Location
Long Island, NY
Damn shame when they did my slab they used trowels to float it and nothing else. My floor has dips in it and nowhere near what you guys floors like when it comes to being smooth. I don't think a rental machine can fix it and hiring a pro to grind it smooth is way to much money. I am talking some area's are 3/8 of an inch height difference. If there is a away to fix so I can coat please let me know! The Good thing is my slab is stain free.
 
S

small&rusty

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Joined
Jan 28, 2018
Messages
66
Location
Idaho
Interested in a price for 1700 sq. ft. Also what is the suggested wait time for covering a new slab?
 
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