Help an idiot build a small, semi-floating staircase...

[Tremelune]

In order to fit a 2-post lift in my garage, I had to ditch the concrete stairs to make room. I'd like to put two stairs back in, but allow them to float above the lift arms. I'm fine with retracting the lift arms to their minimum length (but that may not help me).

I'm a passable carpenter, but I'm wondering if there isn't a product of some kind that might make things easier for me...before I start building lopsided stairs out of two-by...

Would it be unwise to use the (foundation) concrete to help anchor, or should I just drywall over everything and anchor into the garage floor? Without any anchors, I expect the stairs would move around over time...

 

[rburke65]

You may have to relocate puppy..... Sorry...no help

 

[Tremelune]

If she moves, she moves...otherwise...

I found some "spa steps" but they're only 14" tall, and my door is 25":

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BT6EYA/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I'm not sure if they'd hold up if I cut out half of the bottom...

 

[jd_1138]

With the lift in the way, looks like the portable stairs are the only way to go. Unless you were to use a 4x4 on the left side against the wall and then 2 4x4 posts at the right side. That would give u some stairs (or a platform) and allow the arms to slide under them. Wouldn't be the safest steps in the world.

 

[dreamingmuscle]

It's very doable with iron anchored to the house foundation. With maybe one leg touching the ground on the right side. And another one just out of the swing area of the post arm.

Glen

 

[RVDan]

Hinge them on the house. Lift up to shove the lift arms under

 

[Monza Harry]

Tremelune, what about a deck, over the lift and stairs off of the non-lift side? Made from steel and anchored to the foundation and the floor [or adjustable foot as you see fit]. With a couple of feet/legs just outside the swing radius of the arms and maybe some ballast to prevent a lift up situation when some on stands on the cantilevered section. A removable rail may seem like a good idea as well. Harry

 

[Pluribus]

I'd start by tracing the arc of the longer (fixed length) arm on floor, then add step depth to that into work/vehicle area. Even with some impressive cantilevering, my guess is that the required area for that will put those stairs out farther from the wall than you want. RVDan's idea sounds like a good one to me.

 

[jsaw]

With the lift located that close to the wall, how do you position the arms under the vehicle that you are going to lift?

 

[Kaizen]

You sir are a man on a mission. I’d use welded steel bolted to the wall and cantilevered over a portion of the arms. It would be permanent with support to the ground an inch shy of the arms. Screw wood to the metal. Probably 2x2 1/8” wall and 2x2 angle where it can bolt to wall.


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[rsanter]

I would fab metal stairs that anchor bolt to the concrete floor.
Steel frame, goes to the ground on the right but floats on the left to make room for the arm.

Diamond plate steps

If you can’t weld. I can weld one up for you.
You buy the steel, plus food and beer
Day drive to see me plus weld time and drive back

 

[slidehammer]

In order to fit a 2-post lift in my garage, I had to ditch the concrete stairs to make room. I'd like to put two stairs back in, but allow them to float above the lift arms. I'm fine with retracting the lift arms to their minimum length (but that may not help me).

How about retractable RV steps such as these:

http://www.morryde.com/products/194-stepabover

 

[pbon]

If they are built intellligently and are anchored, I think you can have permanent stairs with just a partial arc cut out for the lift arm to slide into the stairs when the lift is not in use. Obviously 2 stairs will be steep to cover 25” drop, and not up to code but I assume you had 2 steps before and managed.

If the lift is several feet wider than any vehicle you would drive through, you may be able to leave the arms angled inwards slightly as their new “not in use” position.

Worst, most expensive case, build steel stairs and anchor to the wall and the bottom stair could have full clearance underneath. A custom steel stair builder could help if you want pretty. Fire escape builder, circular or steel staircase builder, etc. A good welder could also do this simple project.

 

[Jarcese]

How about one post to the floor on right near side and cable support to the ceiling where the near left post would be. Anchor the rest of platform to the house.

 

[manwithtools]

Obviously 2 stairs will be steep to cover 25” drop, and not up to code but I assume you had 2 steps before and managed.

Actually 2 steps = 3 risers which will be approx 8" each which is very near "code". Not unusual at all.

 

[FJ 432]

I would build a landing deep enough to clear the two arms and place the stairs beyond the arms. I would make the landing platform removable so that it could be lifted out of the way when the lift is being used.

 

[NUTTSGT]

How about something totally different ?

Build steps as a box with an open end towards the lift arm. They have to be big enough to slide over the arms and caster underneath. This hides the casters from sight and out of the way. The wall side gets a hidden section of barn door track to carry the majority of the weight. Just pin them in place with a sliding door hasp.

When in "stepping" position, all you'll see is the unused end of the barn track. Once the vehicle is in the air, the steps can easier be slid back in place and pinned.


Of course, you'll need room to the side of the stairs for them to slide.

 

[Dustball]

Bolt a ledger board to the concrete above the arm, make a 2-step platform that attaches to the ledger board, and use two cables/chains angled back and up anchored to the wall studs to suspend it.

 

[Barnabas]

Can you put the steps inside the house, and get a taller door?

 

[JRC3]

Out of curiosity, can we get a bigger picture of the layout?

 

[TTMotorsports]

Metal stairs that fold up against door when not used and then fold down to have 4 contact points with floor.

 

[Tremelune]

Whoa, some great ideas here...I might even be able to build some myself.

Yikes, code! If the stairs aren't to code, I suspect I'd have to have them conform if I were to sell the house? Seems like that might be the real bugbear in this project, and maybe I should make sure it's right the first time.

Otherwise, anything a human can safely and easily use to ascend is good enough for me...

Here's the greater thread on cramming a 2-post and a 4-post into my 22x19 garage:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=7873896

 

[billie]

In order to fit a 2-post lift in my garage, I had to ditch the concrete stairs to make room. I'd like to put two stairs back in, but allow them to float above the lift arms. I'm fine with retracting the lift arms to their minimum length (but that may not help me).

I'm a passable carpenter, but I'm wondering if there isn't a product of some kind that might make things easier for me...before I start building lopsided stairs out of two-by...

Would it be unwise to use the (foundation) concrete to help anchor, or should I just drywall over everything and anchor into the garage floor? Without any anchors, I expect the stairs would move around over time...

How bout a welded steel frame. Weld it up, bolt it to concrete anchors on the wall.
Most lumber yards carry them. You might have to weld on the landing frame

 

[Tremelune]

Interesting. It seems a permanent staircase of an anchored steel frame and relief for the arms would work well, but it would be convenient to tuck them out of the way when positioning a car. Probably not a big deal, though, I'm not doing this several times a day.

Perhaps some manner of modified RV stairs:

https://www.campingworld.com/outside-rv/tools-ramps-ladders/steps-ladders/steps

https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-RV_and_Camper_Steps-pt-Scissor_Step-pc-4_Steps.aspx

 

[39Tudor]

I’m gonna go way outside the box here.....
What happens if you flip the lift 180 degrees so the arms are on the opposite side of the steps? Posts swap sides.
When you plan to work on a vehicle, you back into the garage.

 

[Tremelune]

HBuild steps as a box with an open end towards the lift arm. They have to be big enough to slide over the arms and caster underneath.

I might actually be able to simplify this a bit...I'm happy to move a wooden box in and out when needed. Just need to make sure the "big" step is anchored, and the "little" step could drop/hook into the big step. Interesting.

 

[Kaizen]

I might actually be able to simplify this a bit...I'm happy to move a wooden box in and out when needed. Just need to make sure the "big" step is anchored, and the "little" step could drop/hook into the big step. Interesting.

I would not do a temp or movable setup. If it’s not there and someone thinks it is they will have a mouthful of steel and concrete. If not a steel fabricated make something that goes up blocking the doorway.
Why would the arms be any further towards the house then in the picture? They glide nice so should not be an issue pulling them out from their space under the stairs. Steel will allow the lower step to cover at least one arm. The car will always be inward of the arms. Good luck.


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[JRC3]

I would not do a temp or movable setup. If it’s not there and someone thinks it is they will have a mouthful of steel and concrete.

Good point. Like those vids of people walking over open cellar trap doors. 20" doesn't sound like a lot of fall, but it could really cause some damage if totally unexpected.

 

[rburke65]

Wow....that video scared the heck out of me!

 

[pbon]

Whoa, some great ideas here...I might even be able to build some myself.

Yikes, code! If the stairs aren't to code, I suspect I'd have to have them conform if I were to sell the house? Seems like that might be the real bugbear in this project, and maybe I should make sure it's right the first time.

Otherwise, anything a human can safely and easily use to ascend is good enough for me...

Someone else pointed out that it’s really like 4 steps with 3 risers — garage floor, riser, step, riser, step, riser, house floor. He thinks you would be only about an inch off typical code, which is probably not something most home inspectors would notice. Plus you will be removing the lift and could replace the steps at that time if it was an issue. Not a big deal.

I also like the house level landing and then stairs down along the wall after the arms. One leg of the landing will have to be cantilevered or have and angled support but it could be done.

 

[LX-Markham]

Wow....that video scared the heck out of me!

I like how at the end it's like "Gottem!!!" ...and they close the trap door.


Any other access to the garage? What about just getting rid of the door? Drywall over it.

 

[slidehammer]

Fixed steps that are closer to the car than the lift posts will be incredibly in the way.

 

[aka Larry]

I don't have an answer, but kudos to you for prioritizing having lift over easy access into the house with steps.

 

[Jeeper89]

Search Morryde RV steps. Something like that would fold up blocking the exit and avoiding a fall if you forget to fold them back down.

 

[James-W]

With the lift located that close to the wall, how do you position the arms under the vehicle that you are going to lift?

That is my question as well. I realize the opening poster is free to do what he wants, but having the lift so close to the wall leaves very little room to work on that side of the car.

 

[pbon]

Probably the column is 6” from the wall, the voluminous is 10” wide, and the car will be 12” from the column. That gives 28” to work in. 36” would be better but a lift is better than no lift.

 

[RKA]

LOL, love the pic! "Great idea! Now how do I can in the house Dad?"

That's a tight space and that swing out for the arms has me scratching my head. The cantilevered idea with cables tied to the wall studs is interesting, but for that height you need 2 steps which means a stringer. You could weld up your own custom stringer. Anything you build will likely not meet code, but building a small wooden staircase that will is easy when the time comes. You just need it to be safe for the moments when you forget as you're walking out the door.

 

[Sevenhills1952]

Good point. Like those vids of people walking over open cellar trap doors. 20" doesn't sound like a lot of fall, but it could really cause some damage if totally unexpected.

What's weird is the other guy looks over apparently to if the guy is alive? Then puts the lid back on...propably nailed it shut!

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[DFB]

Just make a up set of stairs, open risers stand them up there and just pick them up and move them out the way when want to run your lift

What's it gonna be like 4 steps max

Same thing I do with my back door steps when I mow the lawn

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

Option 27A...I see a treated sill plate on the block, so you DO have a conventional floor system (wood joist) so if your LUCKY, the joist run perpendicular to the block wall, meaning you could cantilever a deck out a minimum of 36" (finish dimension to be legal in Ca.) then (if you have room to the right) run the stairs from the deck to the slab.

Option 27B...If the floor joist run parallel with the wall, scrap plan 27A. Move door to the right if feasible.

Option 27C... A spin on 27A, if the joist are parallel, nail a (2x8 min.) ledger against the wall, (I can't see your roof system, so I'm winging it here), deck joist would run from the ledger out to a double rim joist that would be carried by two 4x4 posts (one at each end) that hang down and are tied into your roof system. Then as in 27A, tie the stairs into the right end of the deck.

Option 27D...Sell the house.