Help! Can't remove compressor air tank bushing fitting

[aznxstazy]

Hey guys, my drain valve on my compressor broke and it didn't leave me enough room to remove the rest of it to install a new one.

But I notice the bottom is a bushing fitting. Trying to remove it, but it's REALLY on there. Anyone removed one before? any advice?

bout to try some heat on it maybe... and a really long pipe. My 1/2 impacts won't work on it.

thanks in advance.

 

[Vegaman_Dan]

The 'bushing' may actually be the welded in bung so you trying to break it lose may destroy your tank. Be absolutely sure you know what you're trying to remove- it may not be meant to be removed!

I would treat this with a set of screw extractors/easy out/bolt remover. It's essentially a broken bolt that has already been drilled out. Find an extractor of the right / large enough size and you should be able to remove it readily.

 

[drmarkr]

I can only imagine what those threads look like above that bushing....

 

[PT Doc]

Use extractor as stated above. If that fails drill and tap to appropriate size.

I'd call the manufacturer to get a heads up. Don't be impatient since it could really creat a mess.

 

[aznxstazy]

tried the extractor. it broke... lol

I don't know if it's called a "bushing" but in some manuals and lowes etc call it a "bushing"

it's the piece right under the pressure switch and gauge. it threads into the tank.
http://www.purplewaveauction.com/a/2008/20081120kansas/6916.JPG

and I do not THINK it's welded to the block. I was reading how some companies put the "bushing" right after they weld on the bung to the tank. And as the bung cools it contracts, sealing the "bushing" to the bung. That might be why it's so tight, but my problem is I can't turn the bolt without rotating the air compressor assembly.

 

[tdkkart]

Take a hack saw blade, insert it into the bushingand saw through the side of the bushing. This should first allow the bushing to shrink enough to take the tension off of it and loosen it considerably. If cutting it once doesn't work, cut it into 2 or 3 pieces and bust it out of the hole with a hammer and chisel.

 

[aznxstazy]

Take a hack saw blade, insert it into the bushingand saw through the side of the bushing. This should first allow the bushing to shrink enough to take the tension off of it and loosen it considerably. If cutting it once doesn't work, cut it into 2 or 3 pieces and bust it out of the hole with a hammer and chisel.

I don't want little pieces of metal to get trapped in the tank when I put the new bushing on...

But that sounds like a idea.

 

[AE2]

A pipe ****** extractor might be what you need.
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-pipe-******-extractor-set-93822.html

 

[46Nash]

dumb question but have you released the pressure from the tank yet?

 

[pattenp]

tried the extractor. it broke... lol

I don't know if it's called a "bushing" but in some manuals and lowes etc call it a "bushing"

it's the piece right under the pressure switch and gauge. it threads into the tank.
http://www.purplewaveauction.com/a/2008/20081120kansas/6916.JPG

and I do not THINK it's welded to the block. I was reading how some companies put the "bushing" right after they weld on the bung to the tank. And as the bung cools it contracts, sealing the "bushing" to the bung. That might be why it's so tight, but my problem is I can't turn the bolt without rotating the air compressor assembly.

When you said drain, at first I thought you were talking about the water drain on the bottom of the tank. So you're talking about the pressure release valve. I have the compressor that you pictured and the bushing should screw out. Not sure if the tank is powered coated or just painted. Mine has a fair amount of finished buildup around the threads, so the bushing in effect may be glued in place. You may need to put a torch to it to break it free. But doing so will definitely mess up the finish.

 

[ezzzzzzz]

I don't want little pieces of metal to get trapped in the tank when I put the new bushing on...

But that sounds like a idea.

Bits of metal are the least of your worries. Once completed you can open up the bottom drain and flush the bits out with compressed air. I've tried to remove these bushings in a couple of tanks. Most have been so tightly fitted that despite torches and torque they refuse to come out. The hacksaw blade idea is very doable. Don't cut into the threads more than enough to see just see them. Do this on opposing sides then use a small chisel to loosen and remove. Clean up the threads with a pipe tap but don't cut any deeper. You could even open up that hole and tap with a larger pipe tap if required. There is usually more than enough metal to do so in the welded on bung.

 

[Cowboy69]

I agree with the hack saw blade, it would be the easiest way and the metal chunks wont hurt anything, If they are too big to blow out the drain hole they wont come out anyother way either. It would be the quickest and easiest way for this repair and it saves the chance of ripping the threads out of the bung nut.

 

[nehog]

I don't want little pieces of metal to get trapped in the tank when I put the new bushing on...

But that sounds like a idea.

Bits of debris in the tank won't be an issue. They'll just lay there and rust in the water trapped at the bottom.

 

[Steevo]

I tried to remove the reducer bushing from the end of my T30 compressor tank, but it was in there so tightly that no tool I had was able to persuade it.

I may try again someday, using the hacksaw blade idea posted above.

 

[aznxstazy]

When you said drain, at first I thought you were talking about the water drain on the bottom of the tank. So you're talking about the pressure release valve. I have the compressor that you pictured and the bushing should screw out. Not sure if the tank is powered coated or just painted. Mine has a fair amount of finished buildup around the threads, so the bushing in effect may be glued in place. You may need to put a torch to it to break it free. But doing so will definitely mess up the finish.

i'll have to take some pictures. I don't care about the finish of the tank. It's old. But it is the water drain part of it, not the release valve.

Guess I'll try to cut a X into the bushing and try to knock it out with a chisel.

There isn't a hole for me to fit a hacksaw blade into.

 

[ezzzzzzz]

Okay, now it starts to become clearer. I'm assuming the broken off ****** is steel? Is the broken EZ Out still embedded or did you get it removed? First, I'd try to apply ample heat to the broken ****** to the point it was glowing dull red then hit it with a good solvent like Aerokroil or PB Blaster. Don't worry it won't ignite but it will smoke and stink like heck. DO that a couple times then try another EZ Out. If that doesn't work I'd tell you to get another fitting in the same size as the existing broken one (1/8, 1/4, 3/8) then determine the largest drill you could use without cutting into the threads heavily. Drill out the broken ****** and slowly work a NPT tap into that hole to clear the remaining threads. Again, if you had to drill it completely out there should be enough material to tap to the next size up. Then use a bushing adapter or a larger fitting.

 

[pattenp]

i'll have to take some pictures. I don't care about the finish of the tank. It's old. But it is the water drain part of it, not the release valve.

Guess I'll try to cut a X into the bushing and try to knock it out with a chisel.

There isn't a hole for me to fit a hacksaw blade into.

Okay, got'ya. Your comment that it was the piece right under the pressure switch and gauge threw me.

I think ezzzzzzz is giving you the best advice you're going to get.

 

[metalmagpie]

Here's a trick: if there's a substantial amount of steel left above the surface of the tank, put a square piece of steel over it with a hole in it over the stuck part. Then use your MIG welder and shoot right down the hole and plug weld it solidly. Let it cool and then put a big pipe wrench on the square piece and turn it out. If you shear your weld you can just do it again. Old car restorers use this trick. Something about the weld heat breaks down that rust bond on the threads.

metalmagpie

 

[BD1]

Is it the 1/4'' male thread that broke off the relief valve ? It should have been brass and is soft. Drill out the center of brass leaving some. Get a small cape chisel or diamond point chisel . Then use the chisel to collapse the brass
and use needle nose to remove or continue to hammer in counter clockwise as ****** backs out. I've done many, small ones are tough.
Where you located ???

 

[aznxstazy]

i'm located in richmond va.

I forgot to take a picture of it today, but I got it from my uncle who broke the drain valve. The compressor fell over while he was trying to move it. So he asked me if I wanted it. I said hell yea.

So I been trying to get it out. Already tried to extractor idea, but ended up breaking the extractor due to maybe the brass being tapered.

Gonna try to get the extractor piece out tomorrow and try another extractor tomorrow.

thanks guys!

 

[Sureshot]

Weld a new collar over the hole and call it good.

 

[BD1]

If you were hundred of miles closer I would come and do it for you.
It almost looks like the pressure switch housing is a multi port type fitting, [hard to tell] if so, remove and repipe with 1/4'' tees or cross and leave the large bushing in.

 

[aznxstazy]

so.. I was able to remove the bushing by using my cut off wheel to cut a X into the middle of it. Then able to slide my sawzall blade into the middle of the X and cut to the corners. I extended the ends of the X to the end of the bushing. Then whaled on it with my 5 lb hammer till it came loose.

some pictures:

drain/extractor that broke

X being cut. I forgot to take a picture of what was left, but you guys probably get the picture.

now my only problem is, sears/craftsman want to be all complicated and NOT use regular standard NPT bushing on it... it's some kind of finer thread bushing that NO one carries. and doesn't even look like sears sells a replacement part for it...

any ideas of a replacement part that might fit from a different compressor? thanks!

EDIT:

sears model number: 919-16560

60 gallon air compressor. THINK original 6.5 hp motor.

bushing BUNG measured about 2.25" thread to thread

 

[aznxstazy]

well, just called sears replacement parts, they can't get that part at all... so only option left is find a welder who can weld up a new bung or just find a new tank.... MANZ

 

[Steevo]

There must be some compressor parts supplier that these can be bought from?

I am interested because I have one I want to swap out that has 1/2" output threads, and I want it to be 3/4".

I plan to begin searching for a supplier.
If I find anything, I'll post back here.

 

[Vegaman_Dan]

I'm fairly confident you can find a supplier to fit that ******** (and that's the right term, honest!). Take the pieces you have left over so a thread pitch can be matched, along with a tracing of the diameter of the opening.

As for where to go? I'd hit up a screw/bolt specialty shop like Tacoma Screw, Fastenal, or similar. Even a plumbing supply might have something like this.

The photo shows the metal bung welded into the tank is pretty stout, so worst case scenario, you could weld on a plate with a new outlet threaded to what you want, but I know I don't trust my welding skills THAT much for a pressure vessel! Not yet, at least.

Don't give up hope. It's possible. It's definitely possible.

 

[pattenp]

Google "Tank Bushing"

http://www.pexsupply.com/Black-Double-Tapped-Tank-Bushings-11892000

http://www.claybailey.com/shopexd.asp?id=368

 

[aznxstazy]

thanks guys for all the advice.

I did go to fastenal, the guy there said he doesn't recognize the threading at all. He said it's not like pipe or NPT. He said it COULD be BPT, but he didn't have anything like to compare it to in the shop.

also I called sears replacement part itself. They can't even get the part and said it is most likely only with the tank... which requires to buying a whole new tank.

I can not find ANY bushing that's 2.25" everything "standard" is either 2" or 2.5".

So my only option left is to weld a new "flange" onto the tank. I called this certified welder and he said he could do it no problem. Just gotta find a 2" flange that he can weld and and buy a new 2" NPT bushing.

Gonna weld it right on top of the old flange. shouldn't be a problem with clearance etc.

I'll keep everyone posted with pictures.

THANKS EVERYONE!

edit:

I'll also try to take some comparison pictures of the threading. They are no doubt different. this craftsman one is more finer thread.

 

[buzz4041]

Couldn't a machinist cut a new thread with correct taper to match the bung on an existing bushing for you ?

 

[aznxstazy]

Couldn't a machinist cut a new thread with correct taper to match the bung on an existing bushing for you ?

only problem with that is it has to be a 2 1/4" fitting. Which I can't find ANYONE who supplies that size. Can only find them in 2 1/2" or 2"

Also if I go that way, the machinist probably wouldn't even do it since it's nothing that's worth his time to do. That and it would have to be a really big die.

As long as I get a really good weld, then my other option should work fine. The welder said he welded up plenty of pressurized tanks with no problem.

I'm going that route so incase this happens again, I can find another bushing easily. And he said he wouldn't charge me much as long as he only has to weld.

 

[RECox286]

Trying to extract a brass fitting from a steel fitting with an EZ-out will end

up actually expanding the brass fitting tighter to the steel fitting. So putting

more torque on the brass is actually making it bigger in the hole, thus more

resistant to removal, requiring more torque, which means more enlargement

and so it goes. Best way to remove a broken pipe ****** is to use sucessfully

larger drill bits, until the female threads are just visable, then carefully "unwind"

the male thread remanents with a hammer and pick punch. Been doing it that

way for years, works (almost) every time... Sometimes the process needs the

magic words spoken over the project to ease the pain.

Uncle Bob

 

[aznxstazy]

Trying to extract a brass fitting from a steel fitting with an EZ-out will end

up actually expanding the brass fitting tighter to the steel fitting. So putting

more torque on the brass is actually making it bigger in the hole, thus more

resistant to removal, requiring more torque, which means more enlargement

and so it goes. Best way to remove a broken pipe ****** is to use sucessfully

larger drill bits, until the female threads are just visable, then carefully "unwind"

the male thread remanents with a hammer and pick punch. Been doing it that

way for years, works (almost) every time... Sometimes the process needs the

magic words spoken over the project to ease the pain.

Uncle Bob

thanks for the advice. I bought the tank like that. previous owner tried to use a extractor and broke. Tried drilling it out first, but the extractor was to tough and was pushing my bit into the threads of the bushing. So I said f it, it was going to mess up the threads or the bushing anyway, and cut it all out.

 

[J Persons]

My CH 60 gal compressor tank had a similar 2 1/4" bung. When I got it out, I discovered it had rubber O ring and straight threads. Mine wasn't near as screwed up as the Op's bung so I redrilled and tapped it.

 

[dumb as a stump]

Find a machinist and have a new one madeout of steel. If you have it welded it will probably be an explosion risk. REALLY (that happens a lot).

 

[RECox286]

thanks for the advice. I bought the tank like that. previous owner tried to use a extractor and broke. Tried drilling it out first, but the extractor was to tough and was pushing my bit into the threads of the bushing. So I said f it, it was going to mess up the threads or the bushing anyway, and cut it all out.

Knowing this, that the EZ-out is still attached, I would probably try

to drill the fitting with a small hole saw that is just slightly larger than

the EZ-out. When the darned thing falls into the tank, erase your memory

banks that EZ-outs are the first line of defense, and it would be OK with

me to think naughty thoughts in re to the previous owner.

Uncle Bob

 

[aznxstazy]

well, the welder showed up. Found out the bung that's on there now is in fact a 2" bung.

But he hasn't seen any kind of threading like the one I have... He said it looks like NPT, but when I showed him a NPT threading compared to the old cut up bushing, they were completely different threads.

Anyone else know of any kind of bushing that's more "finer" than NPT bushing, but that's used for compressed air or fluid etc.

 

[pop pop]

I'm in richmond too FWIW. Try an online search for Campbell Hausefeld service. I found one in Pa., there are others. I'll bet they can locate your bung plug. Sears are mostly CH.

 

[Graham08]

Tank bungs are commonly 2" NPT, which measures about 2-3/8" across the threads. If you have a thread pitch gauge, try to determine how many threads per inch are on the fitting. 2" NPT is 11.5 TPI.

McMaster-Carr shows a bunch of variations on pipe thread, but all of the American options are going to be 11.5 TPI in the size you're dealing with...the difference in the different thread types is in the tolerances and whether they're tapered or straight.

 

[CNGsaves]

Curious what compressor this exactly is? Your purplewave pic shows a Kobalt but all other discussion talks about Craftsman? Why the mystery on exact tank we're talking about?

Knowing tank has strange thread would steer me away from that particular tank.

 

[hughfree]

There must be some compressor parts supplier that these can be bought from?

I am interested because I have one I want to swap out that has 1/2" output threads, and I want it to be 3/4".

I plan to begin searching for a supplier.
If I find anything, I'll post back here.

I am making the same swap on my compressor. I purchased a replacement from WW Grainger. Go to grainger.com and search for MPT bushings.