Help choosing fasteners for wood retaining wall.

[ive]

Hi everyone.

I’m building a retaining wall near my little shop. I purchased some 6x6 pressure treated lumber. The wall will be about 5 timbers high.

The question I have is what should I use to fasten the ties to one another. I know that rebar is pounded down for the first row, but for the rows on top is it better I use galvanized spikes or timberLOK screws for the 6x6’s.

As always thank you for your time. It’s truly appreciated.

 

[theoldwizard1]

You need to concentrate more on foundation, drainage from behind the wall and "set back".

Personally, I would go with more rebar.

 

[matt_i]

I always think screws are better. The nails (spikes) are faster and cheaper but split the wood near the end grain and so there's less holding power.

 

[Higgins]

Rebar is cheep. Purchase long spade bit, drive as far as you can, then cut off!!

 

[Bert_]

If you want to do it out of wood use bridge planks and railroad ties.

 

[SGKent]

treated wood comes mostly treated for foundations unless you go to a large lumber yard and specify direct earth contact wood. That has so much arsenic in it you don't want the kids or dogs etc., around it. RR ties work but have lots of creosote in them. It is also hazardous but not like the arsenic treated wood.

 

[mbatarga]

I've always using rebar for the first 1 or 2 levels, then long spikes for the uppers. Also - always pre-drill for both.

Are you planing on using any deadmen timbers for rigidity/stability?

 

[walta]

If you need /want the wall to last more than about 15 years consider the locking block walls.

I used the 12-14 inch nails had to pre drill.

Walta

 

[Lynden]

Roger built a timber retaining wall a few years ago on This Old House.

 

[Kaizen]

Screws by far. Big spikes have to be pre drilled. Lookup deadmen. You should install the in the last to the top.
As said above it will rot so I have changed to concrete block walls. About the same price and only downside is more lifting. Lasts decades


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[jkeyser14]

treated wood comes mostly treated for foundations unless you go to a large lumber yard and specify direct earth contact wood. That has so much arsenic in it you don't want the kids or dogs etc., around it. RR ties work but have lots of creosote in them. It is also hazardous but not like the arsenic treated wood.

That is really old info. Arsenic hasn't been used in decades. What you need to look for is pressure treated lumber rated as "ground contact". These days most big box stores only carry ground contact treated lumber in order to reduce inventory sku's and prevent liability when home owners use the wrong thing. You have to go to specialty lumber yards to find non-ground contact lumber.

 

[CraigStu]

Yep, I just bought ground contact 2xs at Lowes. I didn't search because I wanted GC but I think all their PT is GC.

 

[ive]

You need to concentrate more on foundation, drainage from behind the wall and "set back".

Personally, I would go with more rebar.

I will do that

 

[ive]

I always think screws are better. The nails (spikes) are faster and cheaper but split the wood near the end grain and so there's less holding power.

Agreed. Gonna go with screws.

 

[ive]

Rebar is cheep. Purchase long spade bit, drive as far as you can, then cut off!!

I will do this as well.

 

[ive]

If you want to do it out of wood use bridge planks and railroad ties.

Don’t have access to this material, thanks though.

 

[ive]

treated wood comes mostly treated for foundations unless you go to a large lumber yard and specify direct earth contact wood. That has so much arsenic in it you don't want the kids or dogs etc., around it. RR ties work but have lots of creosote in them. It is also hazardous but not like the arsenic treated wood.

Good thinking. This will be a garden.

 

[ive]

I've always using rebar for the first 1 or 2 levels, then long spikes for the uppers. Also - always pre-drill for both.

Are you planing on using any deadmen timbers for rigidity/stability?

Gonna use as much rebar as I can.

I plan on using deadmen. Thank you.

 

[ive]

If you need /want the wall to last more than about 15 years consider the locking block walls.

I used the 12-14 inch nails had to pre drill.

Walta

I was thinking of using blocks too. Rest of the family likes the wood look. Thanks for the idea.

 

[ive]

Roger built a timber retaining wall a few years ago on This Old House.

I’m going off of this video for most of the build. Thanks.

 

[ive]

Screws by far. Big spikes have to be pre drilled. Lookup deadmen. You should install the in the last to the top.
As said above it will rot so I have changed to concrete block walls. About the same price and only downside is more lifting. Lasts decades


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Agreed.

 

[ive]

That is really old info. Arsenic hasn't been used in decades. What you need to look for is pressure treated lumber rated as "ground contact". These days most big box stores only carry ground contact treated lumber in order to reduce inventory sku's and prevent liability when home owners use the wrong thing. You have to go to specialty lumber yards to find non-ground contact lumber.

This is what I purchased. Thank you.

 

[dutchgray]

You could always use blocks for the structural wall and stuff some planks on the front if you want the wood look.

 

[ive]

You could always use blocks for the structural wall and stuff some planks on the front if you want the wood look.

Good idea. I’ll talk about it with the family.

 

[ive]

Gentleman, now that I have decided to use the timberloks, what length should I use. The ties are 6x6

Thank you.

 

[ive]

Hi guys. Is 1/2” spade bit is good for drilling for 10mm rebar?

 

[ive]

Also, i ordered 10mm rebar because I had a friend who gets a discount. Should I just buy 1/2” rebar. I know the thickness isn’t that much, am I just over thinking?

Thanks!

 

[Kaizen]

Also, i ordered 10mm rebar because I had a friend who gets a discount. Should I just buy 1/2” rebar. I know the thickness isn’t that much, am I just over thinking?

Thanks!

Yea all that’s needed. Make hole smaller then rebar so friction holds it together. Tiber lock should go into next one about half way. I tried the really long ones before and had them snap so just use what you need. 12”?


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[mike93lx]

Gentleman, now that I have decided to use the timberloks, what length should I use. The ties are 6x6

Thank you.

I used 8" for my 6x6 wall, but it is very low and has little pressure behind it.

For something larger 10" would be good.

I would recommend checking Amazon and look for warehouse deals on the various sizes. My last project with timberloks, I went 1/2" longer than I initially wanted and got a bucket for about half price doing this

 

[Marctrees]

Spade bit is a very poor choice... get an appropriate size auger bit... MUCH less labor... MUCH faster.

In USA, I prefer Greenlee... If not available, Irwin is ok.

3/8 is the smallest they come AFAIK.

Marc

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B005M26IYS/?tag=atomicindus04-20

https://drillsandcutters.com/3-8-x-...tWnwUrUzh3twN7x1WI-F3nC3Vd24S_1BoCIgQQAvD_BwE

 

[Marctrees]

A big advantage of screws is no clearance hole is needed... as long as the unthreaded portion is long enough.

I used 400 GRK RSS 3/8" in a similar situation, w a plug in milwaukee drill went in like butter.

Marc