Help finding bearings for bandsaw?

[motorcitykid]

I have a rare antique bandsaw that didn’t come with the guide bearings. I haven’t been able to find another like it to follow. It’s a 14” Childs&Co and I’d prefer to keep the original guides if possible so I need to get a bearing that will fit and perform well. Any ideas as to which to pick and where to buy from?

 

[Meursault74]

I don't know, but I'd start looking here:

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[whateg01]

That age probably didn't use a ball bearing like modern saws. Based on the available space for it, I would think it's probably a bronze bushing with a 5/8" id.

 

[motorcitykid]

Thank you I didn’t consider that but it makes sense

 

[GeoBruin]

Maybe I'm confused but that saw appears to have guides. The little rods that nearly touch the blade.

 

[whateg01]

Maybe I'm confused but that saw appears to have guides. The little rods that nearly touch the blade.

Yes you are. The back bearing where the calipers are is what op is looking for.

 

[alfadan]

I think it is supposed to be a ball bearing. You'll need to measure that stub more accurately to see if it truly is 5/8 .625" or 15mm and get a sealed bearing with that ID.

A 6202-5/8-2RS would be a likely choice I believe.

 

[motorcitykid]

I think it is supposed to be a ball bearing. You'll need to measure that stub more accurately to see if it truly is 5/8 .625" or 15mm and get a sealed bearing with that ID.

A 6202-5/8-2RS would be a likely choice I believe.

Thank you, I’ll give that a shot.

 

[motorcitykid]

Maybe I'm confused but that saw appears to have guides. The little rods that nearly touch the blade.

The guides are there and fine, it’s just the guide bearing that the spine of the blade rolls on if there’s a forward pressure on the blade.

 

[GeoBruin]

The guides are there and fine, it’s just the guide bearing that the spine of the blade rolls on if there’s a forward pressure on the blade.

Ah, gotcha.

 

[alfadan]

Thank you, I’ll give that a shot.

Just to be more clear, a 6202 is 15mm ID but you can get it with a .625 ID too. Silly huh? Lol

 

[motorcitykid]

That age probably didn't use a ball bearing like modern saws. Based on the available space for it, I would think it's probably a bronze bushing with a 5/8" id.

After cleaning it a bit I believe you are right, but I don’t see how it will work. Thank you for the info

 

[motorcitykid]

That age probably didn't use a ball bearing like modern saws. Based on the available space for it, I would think it's probably a bronze bushing with a 5/8" id.

Well, the nub that is in there is bronze. Which makes me think that it could be a bronze bushing. Worst case I have to buy a new set of guides and stash the OEM stuff.

 

[whateg01]

Well, the nub that is in there is bronze. Which makes me think that it could be a bronze bushing. Worst case I have to buy a new set of guides and stash the OEM stuff.

If that piece is bronze, the other part was probably hardened steel then. You wouldn't want the same material running on it.

 

[908Jim]

I'm assuming it's supposed to be a setup like (below) which seems a little bootleg. Is there a snap ring grove on that stud?

 

[motorcitykid]

No, smooth. I removed it and cleaned it looking for some indication, but there's no grooves or threads. I believe it rides the bearing exactly like your picture, but will have to figure out how.

 

[whateg01]

A hardened steel wheel wouldn't really need the retention as the blade keeps it captive when in use.

 

[david3921]

Typically there is a guide assembly under the table that matches the top. Does yours have this? Also, what does the set screw (behind your hand) hold in?

 

[yhprum]

Could it be as simple as a spinning hardened washer attached with a bolt?

 

[dutchgray]

My Do-All uses a hardened steel disc with a post on the back that goes on a hole for the rear blade support pad.

Using ball bearings where the blade runs on the outer bearing race is actually a really poor way to do it, bearings are not designed to be used like that, they do it because bearings are cheap and available everywhere so the manufacturers don't have to keep stocks of guides on hand for spares.

 

[motorcitykid]

Yes, guides above and below are identical.

It’s just a bronze nub/bushing with nowhere to attack a snap ring etc. Not internally threaded.

 

[motorcitykid]

The cap screw on the side provides tension to hold it in place.

 

[whateg01]

My Do-All uses a hardened steel disc with a post on the back that goes on a hole for the rear blade support pad.

I think that might be right for this one too. I don't see any evidence of wear on the outside on the bronze part there. I wonder if anybody still makes those parts? Or is this a custom part now?

If it was my machine, I have the tools to make a new part as you described but for somebody else, I wonder if it is better to look at aftermarket upgrades for modern machines and ways to adapt them to this. For example, in this case, maybe a new post can be found that fits the hole the bronze part goes into but it's made to have a modern ball bearing bolted on.

 

[motorcitykid]

The parts would either be adapted from another machine or fabricated. I’m a novice at best, but my brother in law is a machinist and has all the equipment at his work to fabricate anything I could conjure up.
I think at the end of the day figuring out the original design is not nearly as valuable as making the making the machine run well so that I can get some time behind it to better understand how I’ll be using it most to decide which guide system/s would be most beneficial.
I just want a good base machine not necessarily doing heavy redrawing or tight turns.
I have all the glue removed from the wheels and cleaned, now to figure out which tires to use.

 

[whateg01]

If this isn't a restoration, I would go with my second suggestion of having your brother make something like this.



Eta: dead simple lathe job, but I would suggest, and he probably would too, adding a flat for the set screw to touch so it can't get stuck in the hole.

 

[motorcitykid]

My Do-All uses a hardened steel disc with a post on the back that goes on a hole for the rear blade support pad.

Using ball bearings where the blade runs on the outer bearing race is actually a really poor way to do it, bearings are not designed to be used like that, they do it because bearings are cheap and available everywhere so the manufacturers don't have to keep stocks of guides on hand for spares.

If this isn't a restoration, I would go with my second suggestion of having your brother make something like this.

Would a hardened steel wheel be a more effective solution seated on the bronze?

 

[whateg01]

Like I said, I would just convert it to use ball bearings. That also future proofs the machine so you can find parts later when those wear out

 

[motorcitykid]

Like I said, I would just convert it to use ball bearings. That also future proofs the machine so you can find parts later when those wear out

Thank you

 

[yhprum]

I’m guessing that it’s a disk in a shaft after seeing that latest photos. Probably both fell out when the blade came off.

 

[neophyte]

Carter Products manufactures bearing and other bandsaw guides for numerous bandsaw models, as replacements or upgrades.

Band Saw Parts, Kits & Products - Band Saw Attachments | Carter Products

Carter Products has everything you need for your band saw, including band saw parts, kits and attachments. Browse our vast selection and order online today!

carterproducts.com

I don’t know that they would have off the shelf guides that would fit, but if you can supply dimensions, maybe they would, or could supply something.

There are also ceramic guides for bandsaws used to reduce friction.
This place seems to offer a much wider range of products than I recall last time I checked their website several years ago.
You would probably have to supply dimensions.

Shop | SpaceAge Ceramics - Part 3

www.spaceageceramics.com

 

[seber]

Figure out the ID, OD and width. Then call a bearing house and ask for a conrad bearing with those dimensions. They can fix you up in a few minutes. Nice thing about bearings is that the specs don't change over the years. Any bearing book will give the same results, although foreign companies might have different numbers.

 

[milkovich]

My Do-All uses a hardened steel disc with a post on the back that goes on a hole for the rear blade support pad.

Using ball bearings where the blade runs on the outer bearing race is actually a really poor way to do it, bearings are not designed to be used like that, they do it because bearings are cheap and available everywhere so the manufacturers don't have to keep stocks of guides on hand for spares.

I had a very early 1900's band saw (Durham I believe) and that's exactly what it used. It looked like an engine valve with a very short stem.

 

[908Jim]

@motorcitykid what'd you end up deciding?

 

[motorcitykid]

I’ve been a little sidetracked trying to figure out a couple table saws. I reached out to Carter Products to see what they had to offer, and my brother in law is a machinist at Ford and said he could make some.
I haven’t come to a conclusion. I’m on the fence about urethane vs rubber tires and using a thrust bearing vs a bushing of some sort. Next few days I’ll get it handled.

 

[motorcitykid]

My Brother took the guides to FoMoCo and turned the bushing a bit so the bearing could be press fit, I’m excited to get it going. I did look at several different new guide systems but I want to try it as it was built first.
I picked up a Timberwolf blade from Suffolk and some Urethane acutrack tires from bandsaw blade warehouse on EBay. Now to build its stand and it should be good to get going.

 

[motorcitykid]

Trying to get it lined up seems a bit tricky, but hopefully enough YouTube will get it done

 

[motorcitykid]

Cuts beautifully, still some tweaks to be made. But it’s 80% there

 

[motorcitykid]

The bottom wheel wiggles a little bit but the top tracks true. Cuts like absolute butter, the rear blade guide is can be in the way, the front is bent. But it’s gonna work fine.