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Help...Issues with Contractor and New Garage

kartracer23

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I don't know **** about construction, but that's bad. I'd fight it now, as hard as you can, to get it right. I'm afraid you'll just have problem after problem down the road if you don't. Good luck...

Sad that you're in the situation you're in - sounds like you did everything right. You shouldn't have to babysit a job like this, but unfortunately, some times you do.
 
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srmofo

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Well first off, a garage can be built in a week not including concrete. I did my 24x36 last year in 3.5 days including shingles and siding. Im finishing my buddies (32x40 12' walls) up right now and it took us 4 days to get it under felt. We're working short 10am-5pm days because it gets dark so early now. 3 man crew, but walls were layed out ahead of time. I got a quote for a 24x36 for $25k with no driveway,cheap garage doors and shorter walls for comparison. Built it for $22k including a $5k driveway/sidewalk, fully insulated doors, and 10'walls. No electric included.

#1 you get ****** lumber, it happens. But to put it under a header is retarded and so close to a visible portion of the wall, and to even use the a piece that bad in the first place

#2 That rafter was damaged by the person installing it. It looks like it was in the wrong place after nailing so they just ripped it apart to pull the nails.

#3 I can say with 100% certainty that the sill plate should have lumber in it, even though I have never used metal studs. Did you see how easy it punched a hole in it by dropping the wall on it? Its not going to keep a strong wind from pulling it up, which is why you use anchor bolts in the first place. same goes for the hollow metal top plate

#4 Have you seen what happens to drywall when exposed to water? That cant be right, even though I have no experience with fire ratings. Not to mention you can probably push that wall and cause it to rack. Cant wait to see what happens when they start putting some weight on the roof.

#5 Inspections in my area 1-footing trench, 2- after stem wall/before slab, 3-final concrete, 4- framing/roof (before siding or shingles), 5-rough electrical, 6-final electrical, 7-insulation (dont ask me why) 8-drywall (again, no clue) 9-final. No charge for any inspection unless failed and they have to come back out.

I wouldnt let those dipshits back onto my property again, and call that general now. He is responsible because he subcontracted the work. I would also get the city inspector involved. I wouldnt pay the contractor any more money and I would also talk to the bank about putting a freeze on any money you did pay him( he may bank at the same place, who knows, they may or may not be able to do **** but its worth a try.

More pics please there might be other **** youre missing.

-EDIT- wow just read the whole thing, the nerve of some people on here. Theres no doubt this building is in seriously bad condition, but to blame the customer like this is ridiculous.

Thats like someone going to resturaunt, getting crappy food, then blaming the customer. If they have no idea what their doing, thats why they hired the chef to do it for them.

BTW welcome, stick around its not all bad here
 
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MrMark

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You could put pressure treated 2X INSIDE that U channel as noted on page 1 and bolt it down that way. Still would need to figure some solution to that metal on the concrete rotting out. It might not rot right away but it will at some point within a few years. I would try to slip some bituminous membrane under the metal U Channel. BTW, I have a feeling that U Channel is for non load bearing walls.

So the best solution is to strip the sheetrock off, at least in the corners to install shear wall plywood, install HD hold downs in the corners, and fix the sill as mentioned.
 

Plombob

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Contact the Contractor's State License Board and find out your recourse. I had to use them after a job went bad and they were very helpful.

You shouldn't be expected to be an expert in the construction trades. This is why I hate dealing with contractors (and why the fist syllable in "contractor" is "con".)

Join Angie's List and let the world know about this contractor and his subs. It will save someone else a lot of grief.

BTW - That framing book is dirt cheap at ABE.http://www.abe.com
 

willymakeit

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Yes I talked to the lift company before starting the garage to make sure there were no issues. The lift company said that a 4in slab at 4000psi was good.The slab is also reinforced with welded wire and fibermesh.

No plumbing.

I'm in the City of Chicago, and I'm sure that they don't have inspectors running out to inspect every single project multiple times.
Multiple inspections are required, Each stage is inspected. Who pulled the permit ? Here that is who is respnsible to call the inspections in.
 

MrMark

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Kenscr,

Did this contractor just use a stock plan he had minus the steel framing issue or did you actually hire and pay an architect?

This is actually an important question for you and it impacts your options.
 

59 wagon man

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who's permit is it? did yo pull an owner builder in your name or did the gc pull it? if you did it as a homeowner builder calling for inspections was your responsibility . if the gc pulled it then it was his responsibility. sure seems the architect left out some important details? did you submit a set of drawings to the city for approval before you started? if you did and they approved it i would definately talk to the plans examiner and the building chief and get there help in resolving this. check his lic and make sure it is current. not sure about your state but here in florida there is a construction fund to cover shoddy workmanship by lic contractor's. before you go a step furthur i would set an appointment with the inspector and either bring the photo's to his office or ask him to come to the site. inspector's generally have the right by code if an inspection was not performed before the work was finished. the inspector may require you to open walls floors or ceilings to prove work done or to have you get an engineer to certify the structure
 

HiccaBurp

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That's how it is supposed to work.

The slab excavation should have been inspected before the pour.

There should be a rough framing inspection.

There should be a roof inspection.

Final inspection.

Because it is a garage, they may combine a couple of steps.

You are not correct.. no inspection is required!! I know, it sounds so strange, but in Chicago there is a lot of "strange" stuff that flies!! LOL

I'm a GC who works in the Chicagoland-Southern Wisconsin area. There are so many things wrong with the Chicago Building Dept, don't even get me started.

Ex. we remodeled a 2 bed/2 bath condo on the 17th floor of a high rise in the Gold Coast. It was a full gut job. About $350k when all said and done. When I called for the electrical inspection.. he told me over the phone to "take pictures and I'll look at them at final"!!!! LOL Yeah, who cares there are thousands of people in this high rise and it might burn down!! Oh man, do I have stories..

I am very proficient at wood framing and steel framing. Our work is 50/50 residential/commercial. I can tell right away this crew was only used to working with wood. They treated the framing as if it was wood. I see this regularly here in the Chicago area.

That sill plate is wrong, wrong, wrong!! Interior.. maybe. But it still would need a barrier between it and concrete. I don't see that lasting more then 5 years before it's all rusted out. And by that time, your GC will be back washing cars where he belongs!

Drywall on exterior walls.. I don't care if it is allowed.. I NEVER would. There are many exterior grade sheetrock products for this purpose. Most are purple or green and have a fabric type texture on the surface, not paper. Also, with the Tyvek joints not taped, you have an area where moisture can infiltrate and mold/deteriorate the drywall.

Who is this architect? I want to make sure I put him on the list of NEVER work with. I see TOOOOO MANY of them! And to think they get paid $100 an hour or more, and people ***** when I try and charge $50 and hour! Jeez! No matter the plans.. the GC should of caught some of the issues before they became issues. My regular architects love me for the simple fact that I usually catch their issues before they become issues.

I hope this works out and keep us posted..
 

MrMark

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Well, tell the OP how to do the sill plate correctly with the steel framing. And what barrier he should use and whether it can be retrofitted. What about shear on this building?

I don't think he had an architect. I think the builder just changed around some plans he had and submitted them.
 

blkhonda1991

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Well, tell the OP how to do the sill plate correctly with the steel framing. And what barrier he should use and whether it can be retrofitted. What about shear on this building?

I don't think he had an architect. I think the builder just changed around some plans he had and submitted them.

he stated he had an architect after the first permit was denied...whether it was his architect or someone the GC hired is unknown. all i know is that the guy that did those drawings does not deserve the title of architect and have reservations that he is actually a registered architect...the cost of rebuilding the walls should lie with the architect for the most part since he spec'ed the wrong type of construction
 
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MrMark

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he stated he had an architect after the first permit was denied...whether it was his architect or someone the GC hired is unknown.

Oh, I didn't see that.

Well, that changes the equation here quite a bit from a legal perspective. The OP is in good shape if that is true.
 

HiccaBurp

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Well, tell the OP how to do the sill plate correctly with the steel framing. And what barrier he should use and whether it can be retrofitted. What about shear on this building?

I don't think he had an architect. I think the builder just changed around some plans he had and submitted them.

The correct way is to install a pressure treated 2x with a foam sill seal(usually pink/green rolls about 3/16" thick under it. Then install a heavier gauge(at least 20 ga or better) steel track with the same foam sill sealer under it!! Steel track is NOT rated for direct contact with PT lumber. Even on interior walls with a wood sill plate, you should use a vapor barrier between steel stud and lumber. Since lumber holds moister, and if steel is in direct contact, it will fail prematurely.

HOW TO FIX?? Hmmm.. off the top of my head, I'd support the roofing structure one side at a time and cut the studs from the bottom. Remove about 2" and the steel track. Insert PT 2x with foam under and above and install new heavier ga track. Actually, slip the track on first, then the lumber. I would also remove every few studs and add heavier ga studs. I just don't think that wall is rated for that load. What gauge is the wall studs? Also, I would add large washers or even steel plates under each foundation bolt as steel track will tear easily. I would also make sure you have enough.. not just the "minimum" spacing required. Maybe a bolt every 2'-3'? If your adding, make sure you drill completely thru and epoxy steel rods, let set then install the washers/plates and nuts.

That should fix your sill plate issue.. but the exterior sheeting, what to do about that? Maybe take one layer off and install the correct material? Not sure. Also, the top plate.. just does't seem correct for supporting the load. You might have to do the same thing to the top plate.. cut down, install another 2x at minimum, then make sure there is a stud under each truss.

I'll think about it more in the morning, as most of my thinking is done at this time. After lunch.. it's 50/50.. by the time I'm home.. not much!!
 

mrb

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As I mentioned in the first thread, I got a permit from the City of Chicago myself.

and herein lies the problem.

ATTN EVERYONE: the CONTRACTOR should pull the permit. Permits that the homeowner pulls are for when the homeowner is doing the work.

flybynight 'contractors' who often dont have any insurance, tell the HO to pull the permit, so the HO is on the hook for the work.

To the OP: did you list the contractor doing the work on the permit? Or do you have an owner builder permit?
 

MrMark

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The correct way is to install a pressure treated 2x with a foam sill seal(usually pink/green rolls about 3/16" thick under it. Then install a heavier gauge(at least 20 ga or better) steel track with the same foam sill sealer under it!! Steel track is NOT rated for direct contact with PT lumber. Even on interior walls with a wood sill plate, you should use a vapor barrier between steel stud and lumber. Since lumber holds moister, and if steel is in direct contact, it will fail prematurely.

This sounds totally right. I've used that sill seal myself. Sandwich the PT lumber in the sill seal and then the steel track on top.
 

MrMark

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HOW TO FIX?? Hmmm.. off the top of my head, I'd support the roofing structure one side at a time and cut the studs from the bottom. Remove about 2" and the steel track. Insert PT 2x with foam under and above and install new heavier ga track. Actually, slip the track on first, then the lumber. I would also remove every few studs and add heavier ga studs. I just don't think that wall is rated for that load. What gauge is the wall studs? Also, I would add large washers or even steel plates under each foundation bolt as steel track will tear easily. I would also make sure you have enough.. not just the "minimum" spacing required. Maybe a bolt every 2'-3'? If your adding, make sure you drill completely thru and epoxy steel rods, let set then install the washers/plates and nuts.

That should fix your sill plate issue.. but the exterior sheeting, what to do about that? Maybe take one layer off and install the correct material? Not sure. Also, the top plate.. just does't seem correct for supporting the load. You might have to do the same thing to the top plate.. cut down, install another 2x at minimum, then make sure there is a stud under each truss.

I'll think about it more in the morning, as most of my thinking is done at this time. After lunch.. it's 50/50.. by the time I'm home.. not much!!


good stuff right there. I think this thing could be fixed for 5-10 grand.
 

archirelic

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I'm just curious as to how the structure, if you can call it that, was able to reach that level of 'completion,' without having had to pass any inspections...?

And this is not a knock on you, but how was this much poor work done under your eyes without you taking issue up until this point...2000 dollars shy of the total sum agreed upon?

Where has the contractor been during all of this...? Shouldn't he have been coming around, checking on his subs and the overall progress...?

I understand that you cannot be everywhere all the time, but when it comes to large financial purchases, etc., you bet your a** I will be like a hawk all over everything until it is done to a satisfactory date.

I am sorry for your issues, and especially sorry that the garage got to this stage before you realized how poor of a job they are really doing. In the end, I hope sh*t gets taken care of without too much of a loss on your end.
 

davel

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i think i would find a retired contractor that needs a few bucks on the side to set things right. someone that has a little moral fiber. maybe through a local church?

you must be some kind of DIY guy if youre on here and you want a hoist in the future. do your homework and work along with whoever you find.

they are less likely to screw you if you ask intelligent questions and are standing there.
 
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srmofo

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HOW TO FIX?? Hmmm.. off the top of my head, I'd support the roofing structure one side at a time.........
Thats where I would go a different route. None of the material is right for the load and shear, correct? I would purchase the correct stuff build the wall with sheating, then lift and remove the old. Install new and set the roof back down. This is assuming that they didnt botch the roof as well. I would also probably brace the other side before lifting if it is built in a similar manner. Putting all that load on 1 wall could reach its failing point if the walls are rated for load.

As far as the anchor bolts go you can use the simpson bolts, but they are expensive at $107 for 20. whats the price on rods and epoxy though? We had to use them on the build Im helping on now, apparently the old flat stock rolled and threaded are not up to code anymore in his area. wish they would have told us before hand when they were approving his drawings that showed the anchor bolts we were using.
http://www.simpsonanchors.com/catalog/mechanical/titen-hd/
 

Phil S.

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I don't see were there ins't a way to fix everyting at minimum cost. I'll be glad to help for free. Just E-mail me [email protected] I have beeen a lic. contractor in Calif for 35 years.
 

HiccaBurp

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Thats where I would go a different route. None of the material is right for the load and shear, correct? I would purchase the correct stuff build the wall with sheating, then lift and remove the old. Install new and set the roof back down. This is assuming that they didnt botch the roof as well. I would also probably brace the other side before lifting if it is built in a similar manner. Putting all that load on 1 wall could reach its failing point if the walls are rated for load.

As far as the anchor bolts go you can use the simpson bolts, but they are expensive at $107 for 20. whats the price on rods and epoxy though? We had to use them on the build Im helping on now, apparently the old flat stock rolled and threaded are not up to code anymore in his area. wish they would have told us before hand when they were approving his drawings that showed the anchor bolts we were using.
http://www.simpsonanchors.com/catalog/mechanical/titen-hd/

My post was done last night.. and very little brain juice is left by that time. Now that I think about it, I might agree with above. Build temporary walls and remove one side at a time and replace with correct materials and construction details. By the time you farts around with cutting, trying to get things in place you still won't have the optimal wall. It shouldn't take more then a couple of days with 3-4 guys to do.

As for the anchor bolts.. I like threaded rod and epoxy because it's not putting a horizontal force on the concrete. If your drilling a bunch of holes and then putting expansion anchors, it's asking for the concrete to crack along that line. I've done both methods, and prefer the rod/epoxy. Stronger, longer lasting and less expensive.
 

dirttracker18

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Also after overnight consideration I submit the following:
Ask the GC to come out and look, expalin you have some serious issue with the build. Since he subbed it out it is worth assuming at this point that he had no idea how bad things are. We/if he comes point out the issues and discuss how he plans to fix them. Explain you are willing to work with him to make it right but at this point the work is unacceptable.
If he is a stand up guy (benefit of the doubt) he may come good on making it right. if you go at him with guns blazing he most certainly will not.
If there are issues with the designs, same goes for the architect. Go to him with proof from some one who knows and find out what if anything he plans to do about it. If he is licensed he should be very concerned. As noted earlier, thats what his E and O insurance is for.

If both or either of them wouldn't work you have plan 'B' prepared (whatever you want to do next, perhaps consult a lawyer in advance) and let them know that you are prepared to pursue this further if neccessary.

Best to apporach this with an attitude of 'how can we fix this.' No one likes to feel under the gun (even if they should be) and people get defensive fast when they are.

Give them the benefit of the doubt to make it right first. If they refuse or want to short cut repairs then use every avenue possible to see that they pay for their mistakes (licensing boards, BBB, small claims suit, big sign out on your lawn explaining who did this ****)

Please keep us informed as to how this works out for you. I see you already have an offer of help from a GJ member. Good on you! Regardless of some negtive comments, there are some great people on here (obviously not all).
 

John McA

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and herein lies the problem.

ATTN EVERYONE: the CONTRACTOR should pull the permit. Permits that the homeowner pulls are for when the homeowner is doing the work.

flybynight 'contractors' who often dont have any insurance, tell the HO to pull the permit, so the HO is on the hook for the work.

To the OP: did you list the contractor doing the work on the permit? Or do you have an owner builder permit?


DING, DING, DING,
WE HAVE A WINNER!

+1000

John McA
 

MrMark

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I would build a temporary brace and support the roof very close to the exterior wall from the inside. I would first build a completely new wall sans the gypsum (to be added later because it makes lifting too heavy) but with the sheathing installed and place this built wall on the ground outside the building. You want the sheating on here even though it will make the wall heavy because you need a very straight wall for this delicate operation. No racking allowed.

I would then remove the wall (sawzall time cutting all the nails) and slide the new wall in place. Be prepared with site built levers and ingenuity to lift on roof/temporary brace if necessary. Sledgehammering a wedge or two under the brace may be the best method to gain a 1/4" for clearance. Repeat three more times. Only one wall would be built with steel studs , the others normal construction practice.

Obviously, with this method you would have to saw off the threaded rod sticking up and install anchor bolts post this operation. I would use Simpson Titan Screw bolts of appropriate size or Hilti undercut wedge anchors. Epoxy is not very good method, imo. Read up on the Boston Big Dig failure for reference.

You will need to drill through the pressure treated sill and U Channel with a regular bit and then switch to a 5/8 or 3/4 SDS plus concrete bit to drill to appropriate depth. You will need a 12 inch bit. Blow out the hole with a straw on the end of a blow gun and install the anchors.

Oh yeah, Harbor Freight has this totally awesome rock drill for like $22.99 with coupon that will do the job.
 
OP
K

kenscr5

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Thank you for all the replies and advice, it is much appreciated! I had a death in the family on Thursday, wake Friday, and funeral today so I haven't been able to get back on here. I will get more details and give you an update tomorrow morning.
 

bczygan

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An interesting thread. The relationships between owners, designers and contractors (Prime and sub) are very special. Each has his own needs, goals, desires and responsibilities, both moral and legal. The best protection is always a true meeting of the minds and hearts of the individuals involved, backed up by a complete and detailed contract and working drawings. But a small project like this seldom gets that kind of time and attention. There's no profit in it. For small projects, it behooves the owner to educate himself in every way possible. From the owner's description of the job, he is surprised at the things that have happened. He also admits not wanting to know everything. That means the choice of people who work for him, beginning with the general contractor are VERY critical. The low budget means corners will be cut wherever possible. The owners expectations don't match the realities of the job and budget. Part of this is the owner and part is the contractor. A good meeting of the minds would have both parties vision of the work matching in all respects. They would both know the quality level or materials and workmanship to expect. They would both know what to expect as far as scheduling. The delays sound typical to me. His small job has no priority. He is filler work. But an owner wants to hear that the job will be quickly done, not that it will take months instead of weeks. So contractors tell them what they want to hear. The best subs go to bigger more profitable jobs. A good carpenter would return that bad stud and and at least scab a piece on where the joist split. Do the payments he's made match the completed, inspected and approved work? Was a draw system set up which makes sure the subs and material suppliers were paid? Is he liable to pay for the job twice? At this point I would try to get the contractor to do as much as possible and keep the remainder. No good answers here, just a lot of shoulda, woulda and coulda's.

Bill
Designer and Builder in Detroit
 
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MrMark

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It's funny how the people on here busting this guys balls are the contractors who are probably all scammers and the only ones helping are the knowledgeable regular guys. I except out the architect (who has been very helpful and the framer guy from Illiinios) Most of these so-called contractors/builders couldn't find their *** with both hands.

Kenscr: tell them to go pound sand in a rat hole.
 

james1savage

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Eh...I'd say you got $20k worth of work (on a job that should be around $40k). I'm not going to pick it apart further (cough, cough...no joist/rafter hangers...no footings under slab?) as I'm not a contractor, but in my opinion, that's an amateur job and will not stand the test of time.

x2.............
 

jay50

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It's funny how the people on here busting this guys balls are the contractors who are probably all scammers and the only ones helping are the knowledgeable regular guys. I except out the architect (who has been very helpful and the framer guy from Illiinios) Most of these so-called contractors/builders couldn't find their *** with both hands.

Kenscr: tell them to go pound sand in a rat hole.

:thumbup::thumbup:
 

racer1

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I don't post very often. But it's time on this one...While I'm not an official contractor. I have built 3 houses and many garages. I am willing to throw my hat in the ring here, and volunteer my help for free. If you need the help when this is figured out, drop me a PM... I will bring all my own tools and all you would need to do is provide me with meals and a roof to sleep under...You guys who are saying it's all the op's fault, That"s just ****!.. Someday you'll get ripped off in some manner. The last thing you'll want is a big F you, you should have known better.

Keep us informed of your progress. maybe there are more guys that might want a road trip to help someone out...

Jim In wis.
 

little d

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Ken, before i did anything, i would try to get the gc over there and look at everything. I can't believe he hasn't been there yet. As been said, he should have pulled the permits, scheduled the inspections, ect..., this is what you are paying him for. If he shows up and makes everything right, cool, if not, i'd take the 2 grand and go after him.
 

jsigrist

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Hi,
I have been a member of this board for years, but never was compelled to post. I do visit often, and certainly have enjoyed following the antics of the great members of GJ.

I guess I never post, because in most instances the posts seem to head in a reasonable direction with those having the most experience providing the necessary information for the situation at hand. If all I can add is “I agree” or “+1”, I won’t bother. Besides that, I type real slow.

For background, I am a licensed electrician, although I do not currently work as one. I spent 17 years as an electrician and electrical supervisor in a steel mill. I am not a contractor, although I designed and built my own home and shop. The only work I subbed was the site work, concrete and masonry, plumbing and HVAC. I also rehab homes for resale.

I agree with the universal opinion that the structure the OP is having built has issues. I agree that according to the available information the architect did not correctly specify the exterior load bearing walls since a U430 wall is non-load bearing. I agree that the OP should have the GC on site to go over any perceived deficiencies. I have no idea on the inspections required in the OP’s jurisdiction. In my rural area I only need sewer and plumbing inspections.

The thing which drives me to post is all the ramblings about exactly what are the issues without anyone having very good information.

I am not familiar with metal stud construction, so I did some quick research.
In regard to the construction of a load bearing 2 hour fire rated wall structure I found references to a UL423 specified as follows:
• 350S162-33 steel studs spaced at 24” o.c.
• optional glass fiber or mineral wool insulation
• gypsum board on each side
(rating listed for thickness and number of layers of gypsum board applied)
2 layers of 5/8” for 2 hr.
• exterior facing: aluminum siding, steel siding, brick veneer, stucco, or mineral and
fiberboard

33 mil studs, as I believe the 350S162-33 indicates would be 20 ga. I understand that 20 ga. studs are painted yellow. It appears that the studs in the OP’s structure are painted yellow. I do not know if they meet the requirements for 350S162-33, but suspect that those posting do not know either. I have no idea the gauge of the bottom runners, or the appropriate gauge. The information I found indicated a fastener every 24” I believe. I did not see anything indicating a PT sill should be under the steel and for the life of me cannot think of a benefit to adding one.

I see a tape edge on one of the photos which shows the manufacturers name and product name for the gypsum board used on the outside. I also see the word “sheathing” on the tape. Another search of the manufacturer’s site shows this to be an exterior sheathing grade product. Whether it is properly applied with the appropriate fastener schedule I cannot tell since it is covered with Tyvek.

I think all agree that a sill seal should have been installed under the walls.

I question if the ceiling joists not falling above the wall studs and if the top plate construction is adequate for the current situation. I do not know, but if it were mine I would find out. I would expect rafter ties to be used, but do not see any.

I do know that from the photos the walls lack the shear bracing which should be there. I suspect diagonal bracing can still be attached to the inside structure to meet the need, but this should be verified.

From the information on the wall construction I found, it would seem the vinyl siding it looks like is being used may not be adequate for the fire wall.

Some of the lumber used is really ugly.

I would have wrapped the house wrap around the openings, and certainly tape the seams.

If the OP is unfamiliar with building practices, and since there have been a number of issues raised, I think he should find another professional who can provide information on the deficiencies from a first hand inspection. Good luck and I hope you get this settled.

Jeff
 

bczygan

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One thing about this thread, as Jeff mentioned, is that we don't know very much about the exact situation here. Because of that, I called and spoke with the owner today. I found out some of the background of this project. Here's some of that background with my comments and opinions. If Ken, the owner has anything to add or change here, please do.

The project was architect designed. The owner did due diligence and got enough bids and did an adequate job picking his contractor. The contractor is hands on and garages are something he does a lot of. One selling point was a very similar garage the contractor showed the owner. The contractor tried to pull permits and was turned down because it exceeded zoning regs. The scope of the project and design changed due to the need to fireproof it because the construction goes all the way to the property line.
The owner pulled the permit because they have a fast track method available where the owner can pull a permit on the spot without even drawings, just a description. This may pose a problem if not everything is being done concerning design, that will pass inspection. I advised him to do some anonymous inquiry of the building department to see if what is being done is appropriate. Another change is that the work being done is different than the plans. The material supplier, in doing his takeoff suggested changes that would keep costs down. This is common practice and helps owners and contractors.
Some things I noticed. The outside walls are load bearing, but not as much as you might think. There is a ridge beam that cuts the loads in half. The inside of the walls will be sheathed and along with the outside sheathing, provide shear resistance. I suggested he insulate those walls as access will be less when covered.

The owner is a newbie to construction projects of his own, but not construction in general. Construction is like sausage making, you don't want to look too closely at how it's done. His result will be adequate for it's purposes. His biggest complaints were the schedule and the fact that the workers didn't clean up. It happens. Small project, tight budget, etc. etc.

More later, gotta fix dinner...

OK,
More stuff....According to the owner, dings to the concrete are caused by carpenters dropping tools, nails etc. I wonder about that. Not seeing in person I don't know. Should new conc. be that fragile? How new was it when damaged? How bad is the damage exactly? Photos don't show well.
One concern I have is how well the loads are carried down from the beams and headers, through the walls to the floor slab. Photos don't show me doubled or tripled studs, and is the slab thickened there? Does it need to be? I'd have to do load calcs. to know. The conventional framing with the ridge beam and joists and rafters did a good job of creating a clear span space. Did the re-engineering at the material supplier provide for adequate wind and snow loads? Don't know. Part of the problem with the process here is there was no review and approval by the jurisdiction. I don't know the requirements for a detached garage here so........???
One thing to think about on the pricing is that there was 2K on the budget for demo, so it an 18K garage.
The GC is working with the owner on his concerns and has fixed the issue with the split rafter.

It is an inexpensive build as shown by the choice of dimensional shingles, no footing, roof cans rather than ridge vent, etc.
One thing is that the owner, since he doesn't know what to ask, and the contractor, who doesn't offer, doesn't even know what choices he has. It's typical in a small job like this for the contractor to just make choices for him. Electrical is an example. The GC is running two circuits to the garage. One for power and lighting and one other. They come out of an existing panel. No one asked the owner what he intends to do with the garage. Will it ever be heated? Should it have had insulation under the perimeter of the slab and in the walls? Should there be other circuits stubbed out for a microwave or any shop equipment like an air compressor etc. one circuit will be 15 amp., wouldn't it be worth the small extra cost to run 12ga and get 20 amps?

More later...
 
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