Help me improve this garage!
- Thread starter Graydingo
- Start date
Thanks! I like it a lot. Should be durable and look good.
There was another detail to address and that was whether to have a base board or not. Initially I thought, no, I want to be able to put stuff flush against the wall. However, the more I think about it, the more I want everything to be off the floor and away from the wall. It will be a constant reminder that I want this to be a clean room. No stacking or leaning stuff against the wall, or towers of stuff that start from the floor.
So shelving will be my wheeled metal shelves and the one thing attached to the wall will be the butcher block work bench.
I have three of these that I plan to place the "good stuff" for my wide-body build upon. They are stable, mobile and adjustable.
I ended up buying this butcher-block as my workbench from Lowes. It's an island so it's wider. I really like my "door" workbench that I showed previously and the depth comes in handy for putting speakers, small projects on deck, and tools etc. So yeah, it's 79" X 39" I'll attach to the wall with a stud and use two hammer 'rattle canned' steel pipe adjustable legs for the front.
I think I'll buy additional stain and wax to really make it shine and protect from oils and grease etc.
I have a nice vice at home, but I want to keep it there, so I need a new one for the shop. I'd like to get a vise that has an adjustable end/mouth that you can swivel. Looking for high quality recommendations.
Back to the base-boards. I wanted simple and tall. I think the one I picked is around 3.5 inches tall with a simple bull-nose finish.
Here they are laid out in 8ft sections, it's not how a pro would do it by any means as I'm making more work for myself in terms of cuts, measurements and caulking. My daily and kid friendly mobile is a Nissan Pathfinder. Great for taking the fam on trips as it seats 7 but terrible for pro contractor work. I can squeeze 11 ft long base board in there, but I opted to just have the guy at HD cut the 16ft sections directly in half to make it easier to bring to the job site and work with in general. I'll "Scarf" the joints.
I'm undecided if I go white to match the outlets, or gray to match the walls.
I've been using the Ryobi 18v green drills and batteries and really like the quality, price, availability and power. So I bought the battery powered Ryobi brad nailer. I have this job and a home job I need to do, and there are a lot of little projects that I like to quickly nail together and this will be nice not having to break out an air hose.
Until next time...
CombatNinja
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I prefer vinyl cove base for these types of applications. Completely waterproof, never needs painting, can't be dinged and has essentially no thickness to push everything out from the wall.
toyotadriver
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Very nice looking floor!
oh wow, thanks for that.. dang wish I would have seen this before buying the baseboard, maybe they'll let me return it cut in half. :-D haha oh well. So I have two concerns with the vinyl base:
1. The garage will get very hot, potentially over 140 degrees here in the summer when I'm not there and the AC is off. Will the glue hold up that holds the vinyl on ?
2. There's a gap at the drywall to floor. So the adhesion can only be for the top two inches. It could get kicked in at the bottom and look wavy. or not?
CombatNinja
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I've seen that stuff in some pretty hot places. If you use construction adhesive, I'd don't see that failing at high temps. After all, they use it to glue framing together.
As for the gap, the cove base is available in myriad colors and heights, so you could go with a 5" or 6" high to get more adhesion. It is angled at the bottom to seal tight and provide a friction fit to the floor. Not saying you couldn't push it in, but it would take a pretty deliberate effort to do so, especially the thicker grades of it.
As for the gap, the cove base is available in myriad colors and heights, so you could go with a 5" or 6" high to get more adhesion. It is angled at the bottom to seal tight and provide a friction fit to the floor. Not saying you couldn't push it in, but it would take a pretty deliberate effort to do so, especially the thicker grades of it.
Well I took the white base board back and bought the vinyl edging.
It turned out pretty good. I think I want things pretty close to the wall after all.
This is better for that, and the install was way easier. No painting, caulking or nailing.
Next up is the quickjack setup and to figure out where I want the hangars.
It turned out pretty good. I think I want things pretty close to the wall after all.
This is better for that, and the install was way easier. No painting, caulking or nailing.
Next up is the quickjack setup and to figure out where I want the hangars.
Attachments
CombatNinja
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Came out great. Glad I could provide the pro tip in the nick of time.
You forgot this:
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After reading this review I had to pass:
Speaking of bad reviews, A lot of the butcher block countertops have bad reviews online at Lowes and Home Depot for poor construction or damage during delivery. I usually take these reviews to heart, however this time I thought I'd take a chance since I don't have a pickup and wouldn't be able to fit a 72"X40" island in my SUV. I gave it a 50/50 in my mind whether it would be significantly damaged in some way. When opening it up, it looked good. There was a puny layer of cardboard around the edges, and one tiny nick out of a corner. I thought "I'll put that corner against the wall"
Then I noticed an unstained wood hairline crack peeking through on the face. I thought, OK that's not too bad. I'm going to seal it anyway, it wont even show... It kinda looked like a heavy scratch.
The closer I got, the more I could see the hairline crack went ALL the way across the island.
Then I looked at the end. Oh oh!
And the backside showing a knot that probably started the split. Subsequently it must have been dropped or took too many hits from the delivery folks.
When picking it up from the sides with the crack vertical, I could feel the whole countertop flex in the middle, any amount of pressure and it would have split right in half.
Lowes did return it over the phone, but I wont get my money back until they come pick it up and that will be another week. Not to mention the hassle of putting it back in the packaging.
What a bummer.
Then I noticed an unstained wood hairline crack peeking through on the face. I thought, OK that's not too bad. I'm going to seal it anyway, it wont even show... It kinda looked like a heavy scratch.
The closer I got, the more I could see the hairline crack went ALL the way across the island.
Then I looked at the end. Oh oh!
And the backside showing a knot that probably started the split. Subsequently it must have been dropped or took too many hits from the delivery folks.
When picking it up from the sides with the crack vertical, I could feel the whole countertop flex in the middle, any amount of pressure and it would have split right in half.
Lowes did return it over the phone, but I wont get my money back until they come pick it up and that will be another week. Not to mention the hassle of putting it back in the packaging.
What a bummer.
Well I re packaged the island and set it out front and Lowes came and collected it. Meanwhile I set about organizing my racks and moving stuff back in. I like these movable steel racks as I can roll them around and re-position them and they hold a lot of parts. All the engine stuff is on one, then suspension, and then the rest is on the third.
I'm also going to mount up the steel hood from the project 77 widebody 911 I'm building. It's the 74 RSR Carrera 3.0 tribute that's shown in my profile photo. I'll be using an aluminum hood, so I thought it'd be fun to use the steel hood as a display piece in the shop. The red contrasts nicely with the gray shop.
It's a heavy sob, so I needed to pick up some heavy duty steel cable and I'll fashion a piece of wood to bridge two wall studs so I can center it in the shop.
I've also been having a bear of a time with this outlet. It had a GFI here and it's setup like this:
Fuse panel ---> This GFI plug ----> 6 more regular wall outlets
So inside we have two strands of standard romex. One goes to the fuse panel (20amp 125v) and the other is the load to the chain of wall outlets.
I simply wanted to replace the ivory GFI with a white one but then began an troublesome journey where I couldn't get anything to work. It seems so simple.
When I plug in a regular outlet, it all works fine. But When I tried 3 different GFI, I can't get anything to work.
When I initially replaced the ivory with a white gfi, I copied the wires over, but didn't realize that the newer GFI had line on top and load on bottom, vs the older one which had the opposite. Despite it being seemingly simple i've come to the following conclusion:
The GFIs I've picked up from home depot are bad (Regular outlet works fine) - The wires are not installed correctly (white is line, black is neutral?) or 3: I don't know wtf I'm doing. (it's most likely that last option.
The problem is that electricians are all booked out for weeks and it seems like $150 minimum for a service call! That's highway robbery friends!
On the brighter side, I did get my quickjack 500TL setup and I was able to test lift my 911 on it. It will require some custom made blocks as the underside lift points on these old 911s are really tricky with pinch welds, lower sections in the middle and oil lines that run on the outside of the 'frame' rails.
I also need to paint and install a small 6" X 30" piece of wood that I bought from the cull lumber pile at Home depot to mount the quickjack hangars to as I want to hang them on the inside of the small section to the right of the garage door, but they need to bridge a stud as they are quite heavy.
I'm also going to mount up the steel hood from the project 77 widebody 911 I'm building. It's the 74 RSR Carrera 3.0 tribute that's shown in my profile photo. I'll be using an aluminum hood, so I thought it'd be fun to use the steel hood as a display piece in the shop. The red contrasts nicely with the gray shop.
It's a heavy sob, so I needed to pick up some heavy duty steel cable and I'll fashion a piece of wood to bridge two wall studs so I can center it in the shop.
I've also been having a bear of a time with this outlet. It had a GFI here and it's setup like this:
Fuse panel ---> This GFI plug ----> 6 more regular wall outlets
So inside we have two strands of standard romex. One goes to the fuse panel (20amp 125v) and the other is the load to the chain of wall outlets.
I simply wanted to replace the ivory GFI with a white one but then began an troublesome journey where I couldn't get anything to work. It seems so simple.
When I plug in a regular outlet, it all works fine. But When I tried 3 different GFI, I can't get anything to work.
When I initially replaced the ivory with a white gfi, I copied the wires over, but didn't realize that the newer GFI had line on top and load on bottom, vs the older one which had the opposite. Despite it being seemingly simple i've come to the following conclusion:
The GFIs I've picked up from home depot are bad (Regular outlet works fine) - The wires are not installed correctly (white is line, black is neutral?) or 3: I don't know wtf I'm doing. (it's most likely that last option.
The problem is that electricians are all booked out for weeks and it seems like $150 minimum for a service call! That's highway robbery friends!
On the brighter side, I did get my quickjack 500TL setup and I was able to test lift my 911 on it. It will require some custom made blocks as the underside lift points on these old 911s are really tricky with pinch welds, lower sections in the middle and oil lines that run on the outside of the 'frame' rails.
I also need to paint and install a small 6" X 30" piece of wood that I bought from the cull lumber pile at Home depot to mount the quickjack hangars to as I want to hang them on the inside of the small section to the right of the garage door, but they need to bridge a stud as they are quite heavy.
CombatNinja
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A 911 in any garage is an easy, instant upgrade that can be completed in just minutes!
atch
Well-known member
...I've also been having a bear of a time with this outlet. It had a GFI here and it's setup like this:
Fuse panel ---> This GFI plug ----> 6 more regular wall outlets
So inside we have two strands of standard romex. One goes to the fuse panel (20amp 125v) and the other is the load to the chain of wall outlets.
I simply wanted to replace the ivory GFI with a white one but then began an troublesome journey where I couldn't get anything to work. It seems so simple.
When I plug in a regular outlet, it all works fine. But When I tried 3 different GFI, I can't get anything to work.
When I initially replaced the ivory with a white gfi, I copied the wires over, but didn't realize that the newer GFI had line on top and load on bottom, vs the older one which had the opposite. Despite it being seemingly simple i've come to the following conclusion:
The GFIs I've picked up from home depot are bad (Regular outlet works fine) - The wires are not installed correctly (white is line, black is neutral?) or 3: I don't know wtf I'm doing. (it's most likely that last option.
The problem is that electricians are all booked out for weeks and it seems like $150 minimum for a service call! That's highway robbery friends!
Graydingo,
Recommend you make a new post asking for electrical help. I did that when replacing ivory 3-way switches with white ones. Turns out that just rewiring exactly like the old ones didn't work; the new ones' posts were in different locations than the old ones'. Folks on here straightened me out and all became well.
Nolift911
Well-known member
Looks great - good job!
chrisbalich
Member
Keep it up, D! I'm still holding out hope that Kelly will let me build a big garage or move. So I'm subscribed to all the garage build-outs!
Have you seen Tim's over on the Bird?
Have you seen Tim's over on the Bird?
CraigStu
Well-known member
I hate gfi's because I have had the same problem w/ new being opposite of the original. I don't remember the solution but agree start a separate thread here for some help. Our previous house we had problems w/ the exhaust fan in the master bath going inop maybe 4-5 times per year. Reset the gfi in the hallway bath usually fixed it but not always. New switch, new exhaust fan, new gfi outlet, over maybe 3 years didn't fix it. Then the outdoor outlet at the deck quit working. Pulled it out and major corrosion from water so replaced it and worked to seal rain out more effectively. Guess what, that also fixed the fan problem. Why some idiot electrician would connect an outdoor outlet on the first floor to the gfi outlet in the second floor bath I will never understand. Especially since the circuit breaker box was in the garage. So a wire would have to go from garage, past the deck, up to the second floor bath gfi and then back down again to power the outdoor outlet.
I have indeed! Your garage is decent size. My one car garage at home wasn't cutting it. No room for a compressor, press, extra tires/wheels, parts, lathe, milling machine, bandsaw, phased plasma rifle in the 40-watt range etc.
Well after another 45 min of messing with the dumb gfi outlet I decided f-it. which I RARELY do. I just couldn't spend another minute on it. So no GFI on this breaker with 6 outlets. Any issue with that? I don't plan on running water in there, in fact there's no running water in the shop. I suppose I could spill a liquid up into an outlet somehow? I dunno.
I did buy a new tool though, this handy beeper checker dealy-bob.
While extremely useful and easier to use than my old two prong tester (which required 3 hands) - it ultimately didn't help to solve this mystery.
As far as I could figure I have a strand of Romex coming off the fuse panel 20 amp breaker. And a second strand of Romex coming into this box and feeding the load to the line of outlets off to the right ( I think 6 additional outlets on this load) and in this pic is connected temporarily to a regular outlet hanging below. Black = line / hot and White = Neutral which showed not being hot:
But then showing hot when fed through the GFI
At this point I plugged in a tester and it shows nothing. Test button never tripped, so reset was ineffective. No idea why it's not working at this point.
So I just put in a non gfi outlet and had to move on for my own sanity.
I wanted to hang the quickjack to get it out of the way while I organize the shop and for when the car wont be up on it. The corner by the garage door seemed a perfect spot but didn't have studs in the right spot for the very heavy quick jacks. I think they are 40-50lbs each maybe more.
Here is the cull lumber I picked up for 7 bucks, cut and painted it gray.
6 screws holding it to the 3 studs and 4 heavy screws for the QJ hangars:
I might devise a small clip to hold the hydraulic lines up, but for now, they are out of the way tucked underneath.
I also have a 14" Forged Fuchs Porsche wheel that I'm going to use to hang the long hydrualic lines on. Probably right above the hangars.
The second piece of lumber was to perfectly center the hood I'm using as an art piece for the shop. The exact center is between two studs so I mounted that one up (forgot to snag a pic) and then built the hangar from steel cable.
I'm using a cheap screwdriver to press the center of the clamp in.
Viola exactly40 1/2"inches long to be a taught hangar for the hood.
Next up hood hanging, and deciding on a toolbox.
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littlebean
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read the whole thread - looks great! floor and edging came out really well
I appreciate this because I have the back story on the property. 2 owners ago was the guy who built the shop. He did it all himself so there are some weird things happening. I really need to snap a pic of the area around the fuse box for you all. It's bizzarre.
Some other odd things. The backyard hot tub (inoperable) is fused in the garage. But not the pool as it's older construction. The hot tub must of been put in the same time as the garage.
Same with the backyard water timer. It's in the garage so a real inconvenience to my tenants as they don't have a key and the city makes us change the water days 3 times a year.
Well I failed on the steel hangar for my hood art. The steel cable was unfortunately short by 1/2"! Part of the reason was that the hood was at the shop and the vice at my home so I couldn't take last second "eyeball" measurements. The other part is that I probably **** at measuring. Well you know what they say, "Measure once, cut twice" Luckily I had enough steel cable to do it over again, but I did have to go back to the hardware store and buy another clamp set.
2nd times the charm?
I had these magnetic "Safety Stripes" that I threw on for fun as well. Porsche had these on a few cars in the mid 70's.
Then I started making my new workbench out of the new massive 40" X 96" gray butcher block island that I ordered from HD.
The island is only 1" thick so I needed to reinforce with 2X4's.
Here's the 3/4" iron pipe leg setup to allow adjustment for leveling the workbench:
I painted it with hammer finish rattle can:
Close up
And here she is against the wall. I need to secure it and make some final adjustments:
What do you think?
2nd times the charm?
I had these magnetic "Safety Stripes" that I threw on for fun as well. Porsche had these on a few cars in the mid 70's.
Then I started making my new workbench out of the new massive 40" X 96" gray butcher block island that I ordered from HD.
The island is only 1" thick so I needed to reinforce with 2X4's.
Here's the 3/4" iron pipe leg setup to allow adjustment for leveling the workbench:
I painted it with hammer finish rattle can:
Close up
And here she is against the wall. I need to secure it and make some final adjustments:
What do you think?
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wreckdiver1321
Well-known member
I love everything you're doing. The floor, the walls, the bench, everything. You're doing a hell of a job turning this into an amazing workshop. Following for more.
Dan in Pasadena
Well-known member
Nice work on everything......BUT.....just my $.02 but the bench looks flimsy. I'm sure it isn't but the appearance looks slight. Plus it would bug me not to have a shelf underneath unless you built it at a height to allow tool boxes to slide underneath.
Nice Mid year by the way. I had a '76 in Sahara Beige I brought back from near death. Body work and repaint, new upholstery, did a mini backdate on with Euro tail lights and the small bumper guards, chrome side mirrors replacing the flag mirrors. I kick myself all the time for having sold it.
Sorry, but this is the only photo of it I can find right now:
Nice Mid year by the way. I had a '76 in Sahara Beige I brought back from near death. Body work and repaint, new upholstery, did a mini backdate on with Euro tail lights and the small bumper guards, chrome side mirrors replacing the flag mirrors. I kick myself all the time for having sold it.
Sorry, but this is the only photo of it I can find right now:
Tom - thanks for that, I checked out your thread - definitely bookmarked for reading, looks like we have similar paths with the garage/vehicle obsessions!
Dan,
You're not wrong. Definitely a mistake on my part. The butcher block, while it looks cool, doesn't inspire confidence from a work bench perspective in terms of brute strength. The type of construction with its boards glued together presumably, lacks true integrity. It's also only 1" thick and made of a very soft wood. I still have a coating process to do, I bought some special stain to really make it shine and protect, but I might also coat with a hard clear coat of some kind.
This is the main reason I turned the 2X4s on end, that subframe is very strong. And now that I have it positioned where I want it (I think, it might be too high even for me) I'll reinforce with extra screws and bracing.
In terms of the plan for underneath, I want to put this under it:
I guess the idea is I can roll it out and have even more work surface if I need it, and a lower work surface as well if I need leverage on something.
Trapps
ALLIANCE MEMBER
LOOOOOOVE the license plate....
Hello again.
So initially I was thinking I would buy a new toolbox but I finally decided against it as I have my Dad's vintage Snap-On tool box from the early '70s. I have so many memories of this box. It followed us around wherever we went from state to state and house to house.
I recall going into it often as a kid and knowing that if I didn't put a wrench back a certain way, dad would find out! There is a very satisfying "click click" as the sliders and drawers go in and out and it's straight nostalgia for me. I think he bought the box before I was born, and I never recall a moment it wasn't in his shop stocked with his best tools.
Sadly, Dad passed a few years ago and I've been keeping the box at my Mother's house which is about 250 miles away. I finally made the journey to pick up the box and bring it up for the new shop. I think I was initially hesitant to use it because I wanted a low box that would roll under the bench. However, there's just too much legacy in this box for me to ignore and I've gotten more and more excited about it, well I guess maybe some of it is that I miss my dad. Having an object that was closely associated to his life is more special than I initially thought, and it's bringing me a lot of joy to clean it up and use it.
Dad had health problems toward the end (by no fault of his own) and the box was left to sit for the last 5 years with only occasional use. So it'll take a deep cleaning to get it back into shape. It has this decorative trim that is probably Aluminum. I need to research how to brighten it up.
The box, though filthy from sitting around for years, was actually in really good condition. There's a few worn areas, a bit of overspray, a tiny amount of rust, and some flaking paint but overall it's astounding how good this toolbox is for being around 50 years old.
It was also monogramed for my Dad in two places here's the main one on the lid. The other is on the handle on the side. That just makes it extra cool in my book.
I was also thinking of maybe hitting with rubbing compound to try to brighten it back up and take out some of the scratches. I found the keys and the 3 of the special tools to remove the drawers. Dad was like that.
The top has riveted in socket holders. I pulled all the tabs to clean everything.
I was thinking I would soak them in some diluted degreaser for a few minutes then wash with hot water and blow dry.
It also has this nifty collapsible tray. that mounts on the side and is removable. have the original grippy pad that sits in there too.
Tray part number.
Lot's of cleaning to go, what do you recommend?
Also what lube should I use on the slides? A friend mentioned chain / cable grease as it 'stays put'. I might also try some rubbing compound and then wax to see I can bring the paint around.
Anyone else here have a legacy tool box in their shop?
So initially I was thinking I would buy a new toolbox but I finally decided against it as I have my Dad's vintage Snap-On tool box from the early '70s. I have so many memories of this box. It followed us around wherever we went from state to state and house to house.
I recall going into it often as a kid and knowing that if I didn't put a wrench back a certain way, dad would find out! There is a very satisfying "click click" as the sliders and drawers go in and out and it's straight nostalgia for me. I think he bought the box before I was born, and I never recall a moment it wasn't in his shop stocked with his best tools.
Sadly, Dad passed a few years ago and I've been keeping the box at my Mother's house which is about 250 miles away. I finally made the journey to pick up the box and bring it up for the new shop. I think I was initially hesitant to use it because I wanted a low box that would roll under the bench. However, there's just too much legacy in this box for me to ignore and I've gotten more and more excited about it, well I guess maybe some of it is that I miss my dad. Having an object that was closely associated to his life is more special than I initially thought, and it's bringing me a lot of joy to clean it up and use it.
Dad had health problems toward the end (by no fault of his own) and the box was left to sit for the last 5 years with only occasional use. So it'll take a deep cleaning to get it back into shape. It has this decorative trim that is probably Aluminum. I need to research how to brighten it up.
The box, though filthy from sitting around for years, was actually in really good condition. There's a few worn areas, a bit of overspray, a tiny amount of rust, and some flaking paint but overall it's astounding how good this toolbox is for being around 50 years old.
It was also monogramed for my Dad in two places here's the main one on the lid. The other is on the handle on the side. That just makes it extra cool in my book.
I was also thinking of maybe hitting with rubbing compound to try to brighten it back up and take out some of the scratches. I found the keys and the 3 of the special tools to remove the drawers. Dad was like that.
The top has riveted in socket holders. I pulled all the tabs to clean everything.
I was thinking I would soak them in some diluted degreaser for a few minutes then wash with hot water and blow dry.
It also has this nifty collapsible tray. that mounts on the side and is removable. have the original grippy pad that sits in there too.
Tray part number.
Lot's of cleaning to go, what do you recommend?
Also what lube should I use on the slides? A friend mentioned chain / cable grease as it 'stays put'. I might also try some rubbing compound and then wax to see I can bring the paint around.
Anyone else here have a legacy tool box in their shop?
AldeanFan
Well-known member
I’ve enjoyed following your garage build, you do great work. I like that you keep at it until it’s exactly how you want it, even when that means redoing or doing something over.
It’s awesome that you have and are using your dads toolbox. You can’t replace memories with new tools. Soap and hot water should clean up the drawers really nicely.
It’s awesome that you have and are using your dads toolbox. You can’t replace memories with new tools. Soap and hot water should clean up the drawers really nicely.
Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
That is a great looking box and if I had access to something like that, particularly owned by my father, I would be using it in a heartbeat. You will never regret the effort you put into dolling it up before use. A few years ago, my collection of Craftsman boxes was looking shabby, including some over-spray. I used 409 spray cleaner for the primary cleaning and then used some body shop polishing compound, as needed, before applying Nu Finish (just because that was the polish I had available). I really like socket clips for their versatility in arranging lots of sockets in a small space. For my boxes, I acquired a piece of sheet metal I could attach a handle to each end of and pop-riveted the rails to the sheet metal. A rubber pad goes in the box, under the socket "tray".
Good day to you all, a few updates on the shop. It's very well insulated and kudos to the PO (twice removed) who built it. It stays cool as it only has two small windows, so there's minimal heating action from sunlight.
Dad's toolbox is all cleaned up and the sliders were coated with a moly lube which seams to work well. That was a big job. So many little nooks and crannies and just years of grime and dust to get rid of.
Dad had a lot of quality tools, but they were all heavily used. I sorted through thousands of tools and kept a few sets that had meaning to me and that I know I would use.
He had a lot of body working tools and he was really good at metal shaping. I've got a bead roller from him and a box of quality body hammers though they are really used. I wanted to display them (and use them) so I thought why not hang them all somewhere?
I'm still torn on whether that's too busy looking or not, but I really like the rubbermaid Fasttrack system that I have in my home garage. Sadly, they changed it from the wider more gray looking track to a more narrow whitish gray track. It's the same part number so I was bummed to see the change, but on the bright side I understand why they did it. To sell more accessories, as there is more tracks per sq ft now.
Here you can see how small the space in between the track is. Here's the older style:
Older style is better looking, but I had no choice as I checked Lowes and HD and both stocked only the new track under the same part number.
The track is really sturdy and versatile so I can hang pictures, tools, expensive parts that I want out of the way etc.
It's easy to install too, though I didn't have my laser marker so the screws aren't perfectly aligned. Usually I'm pretty **** about that sort of thing, but given that the approach was difficult as the bench is now secured to the wall, It was a trick to be leaning over a 4ft wide bench that was almost 4ft high.
I had to bust out the ladder despite the fact that I'm almost 6'6" with a 7ft wingspan.
Here it is installed:
This is super particular, but I might dab the ends of the screw heads with gray paint. I think most will be covered by track accessories anyway.
Anyone else run into the fast track changeup? I tried calling Rubbermaid and was stuck on hold for a long time. So I just gave up. I figure it might be supply chain related and they pivoted as the material seems more flexy, but also they want to sell more accessories. From a bean counter perspective, there's probably more than 40% more room now on a same sized panel for track accessories.
Also ordered this from Trick tools:
Dad's hammers all need restoration and new handles, so I thought instead for $329 I would buy a quality set I can use right away.
I'm also interested in this:
Price is quite high, but it's heavy duty and looks well useful with the interchangeable dollies and different accessories they offer.
I'm also on the hunt for a quality heavy duty English wheel in the Southwest, LA, PHX or southern Nevada area if anyone knows of one available. DM me
Until next time...
Dad's toolbox is all cleaned up and the sliders were coated with a moly lube which seams to work well. That was a big job. So many little nooks and crannies and just years of grime and dust to get rid of.
Dad had a lot of quality tools, but they were all heavily used. I sorted through thousands of tools and kept a few sets that had meaning to me and that I know I would use.
He had a lot of body working tools and he was really good at metal shaping. I've got a bead roller from him and a box of quality body hammers though they are really used. I wanted to display them (and use them) so I thought why not hang them all somewhere?
I'm still torn on whether that's too busy looking or not, but I really like the rubbermaid Fasttrack system that I have in my home garage. Sadly, they changed it from the wider more gray looking track to a more narrow whitish gray track. It's the same part number so I was bummed to see the change, but on the bright side I understand why they did it. To sell more accessories, as there is more tracks per sq ft now.
Here you can see how small the space in between the track is. Here's the older style:
Older style is better looking, but I had no choice as I checked Lowes and HD and both stocked only the new track under the same part number.
The track is really sturdy and versatile so I can hang pictures, tools, expensive parts that I want out of the way etc.
It's easy to install too, though I didn't have my laser marker so the screws aren't perfectly aligned. Usually I'm pretty **** about that sort of thing, but given that the approach was difficult as the bench is now secured to the wall, It was a trick to be leaning over a 4ft wide bench that was almost 4ft high.
I had to bust out the ladder despite the fact that I'm almost 6'6" with a 7ft wingspan.
Here it is installed:
This is super particular, but I might dab the ends of the screw heads with gray paint. I think most will be covered by track accessories anyway.
Anyone else run into the fast track changeup? I tried calling Rubbermaid and was stuck on hold for a long time. So I just gave up. I figure it might be supply chain related and they pivoted as the material seems more flexy, but also they want to sell more accessories. From a bean counter perspective, there's probably more than 40% more room now on a same sized panel for track accessories.
Also ordered this from Trick tools:
Dad's hammers all need restoration and new handles, so I thought instead for $329 I would buy a quality set I can use right away.
I'm also interested in this:
Price is quite high, but it's heavy duty and looks well useful with the interchangeable dollies and different accessories they offer.
I'm also on the hunt for a quality heavy duty English wheel in the Southwest, LA, PHX or southern Nevada area if anyone knows of one available. DM me
Until next time...
Trapps
ALLIANCE MEMBER
That lump on the floor, 915?
Yes indeed. For the car in my profile picture. 74 Carrera 3.0 RSR Tribute.
Houdini5150
Well-known member
Glad I stopped and opened up this thread when I saw it. Nice progress details and great looking garage. 
chrisbalich
Member
DW,
The temps in LV should be falling by now.
Ready for an update.
The temps in LV should be falling by now.
Ready for an update.