Help me Pick a Table Saw

[Theronswanson]

I dont think I've ever poked my head into this side of the forum before. I'm newish to woodworking (took woodshop in high-school 20 years ago) and maybe do 3 or 4 projects a year. I find myself wanting/needing a table saw. Ive already checked Marketplace and the pickens are very slim. I've got it narrowed down to a few options and would like some input. My biggest question is what am I really sacrificing going with the 8 1/4 vs the 10 inch. I really don't see myself ripping full sheets of plywood (i have a circular saw and an edge guide for the big sheets) and anything much bigger than maybe a 2x10.

DeWalt 8 1/4

Rigid 10 inch

Delta 10 inch

Skil 10 inch

Of these Options, the Rigid is probably #1. I have a Rigid Mitresaw and really like it. Its slightly more than the dewalt, but a bigger table, blade etc.

Space is a premium for me in my small garage, so the Skil takes #1 there, followed by the DeWalt.

I really like the Delta option too, however that price doesn't include a stand.

Thanks for help in advance!

 

[kbeefy]

I have the HF knockoff of the dewalt and it's treated me pretty well.
The rack and pinion fence is awesome, I won't own another table saw that doesn't have one.
Based on that the Rigid and Delta would be off the list. At least from the pictures.

I built a workbench with a recessed area for the saw to sit so I have lots of outfeed, I've ripped 4' x 8' plywood on it without issue, but I prefer breaking down sheets with a tracksaw. 2' x 8' is pretty easy on the tablesaw.

 

[kbeefy]

the 8 1/4 is fine for sheet goods, but the extra blade diameter is handy for cutting angles on thicker lumber and/or using a sled.

 

[trainer]

I'd recommend a saw with a 10" blade. Look for one that has standard 3/4" slots for the mitre gauge so you can use aftermarket accessories or make your own. Make sure the arbor shaft is long enough to accept a dado head. Check the blade insert and see if you can easily fit a zero-clearance insert . A good quality blade will make a big difference.
On this level of saw, the fence can be less than great, but if you learn it's shortcomings, you can make it work.
Take the time to set it up and adjust everything, there's lots of youtube videos to guide you.

 

[zimman]

I just bought the Delta Shopmaster from Wally World. Good beginner saw for less than $200.
Zim

 

[legenddc]

What do you want to do with it? If you want to cut dados can those saws use dado blades?

 

[MikeK]

I'm not questioning your expertise or experience, but "newish to woodworking" and "table saw" screams SawStop to me. The SawStop line is not the least expensive, but might be more economical than a trip to the Emergency Room.

 

[trainer]

I just bought the Delta Shopmaster from Wally World. Good beginner saw for less than $200.
Zim

I have an older shopmaster saw that isnt really bad for what it is. Definately good for occasional use, but I outgrew it after a few years.
I ripped miles of cedar on mine to build several canoes. It now lives at the cottage and mainly gets used for outdoor projects. It runs fine off of a 3000 watt generator

Pros are that its lightweight, compact, and portable, takes a 10" blade. The fence is reasonable, but can be a bit finicky to adjust.

Cons are that its underpowered, often pops its built in breaker when ripping long hardwood, cant take a dado, and doesnt have standard mitre slots. The included mitre gauge wasnt great, mine broke. It cant easily take a zero clearance insert.

 

[My Old Tools]

What is your intended use? Those small saws are dangerous for trying to rip 4x8 sheets. I would look for a Delta contractors saw at a minimum, or stick with track saws for sheet goods. For hardwood joinery, 10" and dado capable are needed.

 

[whateg01]

You don't have your location listed, so no idea if this is possible, but for 3 or 4 projects a year, have you considered a local makerspace? Our makerspace has a jointer, planer, sawstop, and shopbot. Especially since you are limited on space, if one is available, it might be worth it to check it out.

 

[Theronswanson]

You don't have your location listed, so no idea if this is possible, but for 3 or 4 projects a year, have you considered a local makerspace? Our makerspace has a jointer, planer, sawstop, and shopbot. Especially since you are limited on space, if one is available, it might be worth it to check it out.

I'm around the KCMO area. I didn't even know that was a thing. I might look into that. Thanks!

 

[Theronswanson]

I'm not questioning your expertise or experience, but "newish to woodworking" and "table saw" screams SawStop to me. The SawStop line is not the least expensive, but might be more economical than a trip to the Emergency Room.

We had an industrial tablesaw at school. I've been around heavy equipment all my life. Already had my woodshop accident too . Although I'd like the Sawstop, it's way out of my budget and I just can't justify spending that kind of money on one, especially for something I will rarely use.

 

[niget2002]

I'd go with one of the 10" saws. When you start trying to break down larger chunks of raw lumber, the extra size and power can help. My 10" contractor saw can get bogged down if I'm processing a lot of 8/4 lumber. As your skills progress, so will the projects you're trying to do. I wouldn't go too cheap at the start or you'll be looking at upgrading sooner rather than later. That's what happened to me. I just lucked out and inherited a better contractor saw than the cheap one I started with.

 

[gamescastspencer]

If you are in the Kansas City area, the KC woodworkers guild would be one place to look at.

How much space do you have available for table saw?

 

[Theronswanson]

Thanks for all the suggestions. As far as uses, it would mostly be for ripping lumber for various projects. As far as dado stacks, I know the Skil can use a small Dado setup, I'm not sure about the rest if I'm being honest. I don't see myself needing that, but you never know I guess. After looking at saw blades, there's not many options in the 8 1/4 size vs the 10". Definitely a lot more versatility in the 10 inch saws it seems.

 

[Theronswanson]

If you are in the Kansas City area, the KC woodworkers guild would be one place to look at.

How much space do you have available for table saw?

I can definitely fit a contractor type saw in the garage, but it takes up way more room than I would like. I'll look at the wood workers guild, thanks!

 

[whateg01]

I'm not affiliated with them, but this was the first one that popped up in a Google search. It's in KCMO. Our space may be a little unique in that members have 24/7 access. This one has hours, but looks nice. One time when I'm in the area I'll have to take a tour.

Hammerspace Workshop |

|

hammerspacehobby.com

 

[Ohio Andy]

I started with an old Ridgid and it did not have a riven knife. I replaced it with a SawStop because I wanted something with flesh sensing technology.... Great saw, but expensive.

I would not have replaced my saw if it had been newer with better safety features.

For certain a circular saw with edge guide is the way to break down the plywood, especially given the smaller saws you are considering. I have a dedicated track saw with good dust collection.

I would lean towards a 10" blade for those few times you need the extra reach (depth). I would probably also choose one with a stand so I would probably look at the Ridgid. In theory the Ridgid has a better warranty if you register it than the Delta and the Ridgid shows as having a slightly better rip capacity.

 

[niget2002]

I can definitely fit a contractor type saw in the garage, but it takes up way more room than I would like. I'll look at the wood workers guild, thanks!

I moved my contractor saw over to a custom made stand that had built in storage underneath. The stand had wheels so I could roll it around and I built a dust port in the back to pull dust down and out the back while using it.

 

[gamescastspencer]

With a contractors saw or cabinet saw (Unisaw, PM65/66) while you cannot fold them up to store them, you can make them more versatile. Build a router table and install it in place of one of the extension wings, put it on a mobile base with drawers under the right side, etc.

If you make a cover for the top (just some old plywood or something like that), then it can double as an assembly area, light duty bench. I realistically use my Unisaw for that sort of stuff more than a table saw at times.

If your needs are more in line with breaking down sheet goods and generally larger pieces, a track saw might be a good choice.

 

[TurnipTruck]

I remodeled an entire house and build two shops before killing a $100 (at the time) gifted Ryobi folding tablesaw, if you won’t use it much it might be enough.

-Says the guy who just restored a 3phase P66-

 

[R07AG]

I've been very happy with the Metabo HPT CJ10RJS. I recently got my own finally and previous used a buddy's for a long time on various projects.

It's a 10" blade, comes with a stand, and can use a dado stack.

 

[SaintPanzer]

Thanks for all the suggestions. As far as uses, it would mostly be for ripping lumber for various projects. As far as dado stacks, I know the Skil can use a small Dado setup, I'm not sure about the rest if I'm being honest. I don't see myself needing that, but you never know I guess. After looking at saw blades, there's not many options in the 8 1/4 size vs the 10". Definitely a lot more versatility in the 10 inch saws it seems.

Mostly for ripping? I'd seriously consider a bandsaw instead.

 

[Two Door]

You might also consider a table-top saw with a stand like a Rousseau, the advantage being that it would give you store-ability (after removing the saw) as well as portability and capability. They also have extension tables, including one for a router. From what I've read, the Rousseau fence is superior to those of many small saws, although as has been mentioned, this is changing.

I currently have a similar stand (except it's made by Skil - now discontinued), on which I've mounted a large router table, as well as a Bosch tablesaw with the folding stand. I'm seriously considering reclaiming the Bosch space by getting a cheap saw I can store on a top shelf the majority of the time and put into the stand the few times I need it.

I already own a track saw. In my situation (age and declining level of projects), all I really need from a table saw is an enclosure, a decent gauge slot and motor. The stand can offset the deficiencies.

 

[RonnieC]

Before getting a Sawstop cabinet saw I used a Bosch with the gravity feed roller stand. It did pretty much everything I needed and was good within its limitations.

 

[Roert42]

I have a ryobi that looks very similar to the rigid. Cheapest table saw I could find a few years ago. At the time it was life changing being able to rip small pieces of wood without having to use a circular saw or do it by hand.

It’s one of those tools that once you have it you constantly find things you can do with it.

Now, as I’ve started to find more and more uses for it, I hate the thing.

The rip fence is flimsy and difficult to adjust.
The blade angle adjustment stripped out almost immediately.
The insert around the blade is so flexible that it causes a lot of issues with smaller pieces. Also, makes it extremely difficult to daddo anything.


My advice, if you are looking at a portable table saw, go see it in the store. Finger the thing and play with all the adjustments. Try and break it, see what kind of issues you’ll run into 6 months down the line.



In fairness to my ryobi, I’ve beat the **** out of it and cut everything from hardwood to laminate, pressure treated 4x4, ect. Does not lack for power even when running a dado stack.

 

[cretedog]

See Post #7 above on SawStop. Wouldn't consider a tablesaw under a 12" in this day and age without it. For anyone of any experience level...

 

[alinc100]

I'm going to go against the grain here. A used vintage Delta Unisaw or Powermatic 66 ,or their clones Jet,Grizzly etc far exceed many of the contractors saws, pop up stands, etc. On a mobile base a cabinet saw can be tucked against a wall and have no bigger footprint than a contractor's saw. While having a better fence, better accuracy, more capacity. Usually with some shopping I can get cabinet saws under $500.

 

[Renegade1LI]

Consider this if you are tight for space, a dewalt, or milwaukee 8 1/4 cordless, the fence is rack & pinion & the saw can be put on a shelf. I have a pm 66, ridgid & bosch, all good saws but I find myself using a tracksaw & cordless tablesaw as my go to. The dewalt & I'm sure the milwaukee are good small saws if you're looking to do mostly small stuff & trim. Set up on a good portable stand you can set up & breakdown in minutes, add in a cordless miter saw & you're all set. If you do have to rip some long 2x material I have found it easier with the track saw, I really only use the ts for smaller stuff, just a thought.

 

[Notgrownup]

I just bought a lightly used Delta 5000 and I replaced a folding Kobalt. What a game changer. I paid $500

 

[whateg01]

I'm going to go against the grain here. A used vintage Delta Unisaw or Powermatic 66 ,or their clones Jet,Grizzly etc far exceed many of the contractors saws, pop up stands, etc. On a mobile base a cabinet saw can be tucked against a wall and have no bigger footprint than a contractor's saw. While having a better fence, better accuracy, more capacity. Usually with some shopping I can get cabinet saws under $500.

Every cabinet saw that was any good that I've ever seen had a much deeper table than a job site saw. When you're tight on space (or Asian) 6 inches can seem like a lot! Even a contractor saw on a folding stand can be a pain if you have to move it around much, especially with cast iron wings.

 

[SaintPanzer]

I agree also with the used cabinet saw. Our OP hasn't really given us a budget.

My table saw is a used 12 inch Inca. It takes up a little bit of space, but there's nothing "table saw" I can't do with it. Rip, cross cut, dado, I can even set up a molding head if I like. But that's not the point.

If the focus is ripping, with little need for cross cut and no need for dado, then a used Delta would be my first choice, and if I wanted to spend the money, a new Laguna. For $500 to $800, you can probably find a decent Inca three wheel...

Ripping on a bandsaw, you will not see kickback. And you can re-saw as well. The footprint will be tiny, compared to a table saw. Depending on the cross cut, a good sliding compound miter saw will do much, though the bandsaw can do that to a degree as well.

I had a contractor saw once. To this day, I remain surprised it didn't bite me. But I've been lucky. Fences are interesting. A Biesenmeier or clone may not be "dial in adjustable" like a rack and pinion, but can do far more. A good fence, and a riving knife are essential to ripping on a table saw. And I love my SUVA guard.

But I'm just a retired jarhead, so a full compliment of fingers is a requirement for helping me count to ten.

 

[whateg01]

I hate ripping on a banana! (Phone changed it to banana and that's funny so I'm leaving it!) It always needs to be run through the jointer and planer after and if op barely has room for a saw, they definitely don't have room for a jointer!

 

[alinc100]

Every cabinet saw that was any good that I've ever seen had a much deeper table than a job site saw. When you're tight on space (or Asian) 6 inches can seem like a lot! Even a contractor saw on a folding stand can be a pain if you have to move it around much, especially with cast iron wings.

I never mentioned a jobsite saw, and it was intentional. I mentioned contractors saws, which generally have a large motor hanging out the back along with the usual standard 27" deep table , which will stick out farther than a cabinet saw (with the motor housed below) than a contractor's saw. I specifically stayed away from the job-site saw references as the flaws are mentioned in other posts above, weak fence, no outfeed, limited capacity, poor dust collection, obnoxiously loud etc. Many who buy jobsite saws end up building large tables/outfeeds/etc. defeating the purpose and useful qualities of jobsite saws. A really good mobile base on a cabinet saw is very easy to move ,rotate/push to the side.

 

[PugetDude]

10" Bosch #4100 with the gravity rise stand and pull out side and rear extensions.

 

[RMERR]

I had a 10" Dewalt 745 for a few years in a small basement shop and liked it. Put it on a stainless restaurant type table w/casters, worked great for my needs. I liked the rack and pinion fence. Put a Woodworker II blade on it and got beautiful cuts. Yeah smaller surface, but easy enough to put next to a table or workbench for outfeed. Sold it when I got a bigger shop and was gifted a nice Lagun tablesaw. For the small space I had at the time, the Dewalt was perfect. However you go, get at least a 10" blade.

 

[gahrajmahal]

I have a Bosch 4100. I mounted it on a stand that also has a plastic bucket below to catch sawdust. The height is 1/4” taller than my plastic folding table so it acts as an 8’ long outfeed table. It’s light enough I can lift it into the back of my pickup. I changed the cord to a 24’ so I don’t need an extension cord usually.
The best saw feature is the soft start, and it runs very quiet. Even my grandsons aren’t afraid of it. It has a great detachable guard and good fence. It extends to the side and extra 12” so it can rip 24” boards.




Excuse the mess, I’m working on another project and I just pulled it out from it’s parking spot just so you could see the stand and plastic table relationship

 

[Innovate1]

I bought an older (maybe 1980's, not the very early model) Craftsman belt drive saw. The fence could be a bit better but good enough for my use. These come up on marketplace fairly regularly for around $100.

 

[SaintPanzer]

I hate ripping on a banana! (Phone changed it to banana and that's funny so I'm leaving it!) It always needs to be run through the jointer and planer after and if op barely has room for a saw, they definitely don't have room for a jointer!

Sure, but a jack plane doesn't take up that much room at all. And what kind of blade were you using that you needed a planer and a jointer?

 

[gpiggaz]

No one has mentioned a track saw for your sheet goods ripping. I have a small shop and would highly recommend a track saw for sheet goods - You can get an expensive one or one of the clones for a reasonable amount Grizzly has one that doesn't do too bad. Also, I agree with the recommendation that you might find a used table saw such as a Unisaw but it's pretty heavy and take a lot of space.