Help me plan a full-shop bridge crane system

[e-tek]

I've decided that this summer I would build a bridge crane in my shop. I want to stay ahead of age and as I already have a bad back and a lot of arthritis, I want to get it built now.

I gave OLDCarGuys set-up in mind (and for anyone who hasn't spent time in OCG's shops, I HIGHLY recommend you put aside 20 hours to do so!) -

I had already planned to remove the OH door openers and either go with nothing, or install jackshaft openers and some pallet-racks will have to replace the hanging-shelving system I have now.

So, other than the obvious - sourcing, designing, drilling and bolting it together, what else should I know? I want to be able to pull engines anywhere - without having to muscle the cherry picker around, move engines, ******'s and such across the shop, move equipment and more.

I also PM'd OCG of course, hoping to get whatever pearls he may care to share with me as well!

Thanks!

 

[Sureshot]

I have a similar setup 40' wide by 56' long.

I used carabiners with the power cord(100' extension cord) tie wrapped to them to float along with the bridge.

I only anchored one side to the wall and left the other side float. Once to bridge is on all the load is vertical and you would never know that side is freestanding.

If just doing engines etc I would be real tempted to run the beams into the end walls and on top some jack studs and put some support brackets under the middle that come off the wall and forget the big posts coming to the floor.

I am not sure what all you need help with but pm me via email if you need more. I have some pics somewhere as well. I still haven't made it up that way but hopefully I will get away this winter. Lots of oilfield pipe here if you need some. I also have a bunch of 7/32" and 5/16" cable if needed. My carabiners run on 7/32". It is scrap downhole cable and smoother than regular cable.

Here are some links to pics.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/56347875/Crane1.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/56347875/Crane2.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/56347875/Crane3.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/56347875/Crane6.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/56347875/Crane7.jpg

That is a load cell between the hoist and truck. The gauge faces straight down. We used to use the hoist on a 36" pipewrench so the load cell kept things from getting out of hand.

 

[e-tek]

Thanks Sureshot - much appreciated!!

 

[heavychevy454ss]

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/56347875/Crane7.jpg

I like the compressor mounting! Definitely frees up floor space!

 

[NitroShark]

Check out Gorbel . I really like using them. They have a lot of systems to customize and are reasonable priced.

Shawn

https://www.gorbel.com/

 

[J king]

I built a small one for my machine shop.












A real back saver!

 

[gorilla]

How about a bit of information. Whats the span? how much do you want to lift? How high is the ceiling? Is the shop building built well enough to tie the crane to the building?
In my experience you can usually buy something like this for not much more that what it costs to build it if you value your time at all. You may want to look at some of the industrial surplus sites something like this is often sold off when a factory goes out of business.

 

[e-tek]

How about a bit of information. Whats the span? how much do you want to lift? How high is the ceiling? Is the shop building built well enough to tie the crane to the building?
In my experience you can usually buy something like this for not much more that what it costs to build it if you value your time at all. You may want to look at some of the industrial surplus sites something like this is often sold off when a factory goes out of business.

Absolutely: 24x40 with 11' ceilings. It's a 6 yo, 2x4 constructed building. I hear you on buying but it may be a while before finding something from a failing company here in this booming economy!

J king - that's a nice set-up and definitely what I'm going for: a back saver!

 

[gorilla]

Just off the top of my head I think that you will need a 12" I beam for a 20' span. Totally depends on what you need to lift. So 11'- 1'- 18" for the hoist gives you 8'6" from the floor. Is this enough for your needs? Remember this is just a WAG no calks or span tables consulted yet.

 

[e-tek]

Nitro (Shawn) - the Gorbel site is awesome - thanks! Maybe a jib crane would work? In my mind it seems easier to build/set up and less in the way. Originally I was thinking of a truck crane on my tear-down table, but I really need something to pick up an engine or heavy part from any corner in the shop and get it either to the tear-down table or to the OH door.

Gorilla - about 500lb would be my max requirement - engines basically. Like right now I have all the suspension pieces from my 240Z that I want on the tear down table. OR even to install a hood by myself. *-9 should suffice.

I've used my cherry picker for much of this, but the shop is CROWDED, so it's hard or impossible to maneuver where I need it and I have to STOP lifting transmissions, hoods and rear ends by myself!!

I like a jib idea - but don't think it'll cover enough area for me. So a free-standing crane it has to be:

 

[OldCarGuy]

E-tek,, you sure are thinking progressively. It may be a lot of work and a reasonable amount of money. But as I can contest to,, it well worth the effort. And sure has saved many a days and my back! The crane makes it possible for me to do the work without another person to help me.
If you haven't looked at my build thread. The following links pretty well goes over what needed to build a crane from scratch. Fortunately for me, other than the main steel beams, I had collected the rest of the components over the years.. Plus my scissors lift made it easy to set the main beams...

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=30477&postcount=53

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=30479&postcount=54

You first need to determine the capacity chain fall you desire. So that you can size out the required bridge beam. My crane has a 4,000 pound capacity. That I am sure is way more than you would ever need. But I wouldn't consider anything less that 1,000 pound capacity though. Simply too much time money and effort for anything less than that.

The main factor that limits your crane is your eleven foot ceiling heights. And you want as much “hook height” as possible. Hook height is the distance from the floor to the crane's hook. Going to top riding double girder bridge, will place the hoist near the ceiling. ( Like j kings design) But you have the added cost of two bridge beams. And overall a heavier bridge in weight that will limit the floor coverage of the crane.

You have to remember that you cannot run any electrical or hoses from the ceiling. Everything has to be run under the crane from the walls. Or in or across the floor.. Install any light fixture as close to the ceiling as possible. And plan to have the main bridge beam clear them by two inches...

You may consider a manual chain fall rather than an electric one. In return for all the hand work,, it would cost less and have give you more hook height. And save you running electrical wires. Then again, you could simply plug the electric hoist in using an extension cord...

 

[JakeKohl]

You first need to determine the capacity chain fall you desire. So that you can size out the required bridge beam. My crane has a 4,000 pound capacity. That I am sure is way more than you would ever need. But I wouldn't consider anything less that 1,000 pound capacity though. Simply too much time money and effort for anything less than that.

I would agree with that. Even a modern high performance V8, dressed, weighs in at around 580-600 lbs. 1,000 lbs should be the minimum design load.

 

[e-tek]

I will definitely have to design it to be as compact as possible (to the ceiling). Must be an easy way to figure out how big (small) an I-beam would be required to maintain 1000lbs capacity over a 24' span (less as that's a wall to wall measure) and then affix an electric winch so the hook sets as high as possible. I'm guessing here, but shouldn't I be able to get near 9.5" or more hook height if done right? (11'3" to lights, so 11' beam height at top - 6" beam (4"?) -12" for winch and hook....). Not sure if I'd go so far as to flush mount all my lights as my OH door tracks would still be the limiting factor.

As said, J Kings is pretty close to what I need

e.

 

[RAYJAY]

I have a similar setup 40' wide by 56' long.

I used carabiners with the power cord(100' extension cord) tie wrapped to them to float along with the bridge.

I only anchored one side to the wall and left the other side float. Once to bridge is on all the load is vertical and you would never know that side is freestanding.

If just doing engines etc I would be real tempted to run the beams into the end walls and on top some jack studs and put some support brackets under the middle that come off the wall and forget the big posts coming to the floor.

I am not sure what all you need help with but pm me via email if you need more. I have some pics somewhere as well. I still haven't made it up that way but hopefully I will get away this winter. Lots of oilfield pipe here if you need some. I also have a bunch of 7/32" and 5/16" cable if needed. My carabiners run on 7/32". It is scrap downhole cable and smoother than regular cable.

Here are some links to pics.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/56347875/Crane1.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/56347875/Crane2.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/56347875/Crane3.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/56347875/Crane6.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/56347875/Crane7.jpg

That is a load cell between the hoist and truck. The gauge faces straight down. We used to use the hoist on a 36" pipewrench so the load cell kept things from getting out of hand.

off topic but love the air compressor on the last one, and knowing how it is once you have a crane run the legs down to the ground, there's always that next piece of equipment, car body, or what ever else you need to lift

 

[Sureshot]

I really like the setup J king has. I would be looking to do it that way to split the load between two beams and keep the winch up close to the ceiling. To maximize hook height you could come out of the winch horizontally and go over a pulley mounted to maximize hook height. Make your winch mount slide a little in a track and use a short stroke hydraulic cylinder as a load cell. Install a pressure gauge in a port and relabel it for some known weights.

I bet you could get away with some 4-6" square tubing with some ?trussing? or reinforcing added. Not sure of the right term. The beams could be the same height as the winch diameter. Splitting that load between the two beams is a great system. The commercial units have a huge safety factor so hopefully someone will chime in with a homebuilt recommendation with a reasonable safety margin.

My setup is 1/2" below my lights. I don't know why it would need any more room than that.

I would lean more to a wireless remote than hand winch. You want a giant third hand not keep your existing hands busy running the thing. I built a winch setup and used a remote off ebay. Worked great. The chain on a hand winch will be tough on car hoods etc as well. The black coffee can under my hoist catches the tail chain. Maybe get a 4 or 6 function remote to power the bridge and "carrier" to be real cool and easy to do. Mine works great as-is and I am moving so the next one may get the "accessories".

You won't know how you did it without once you have it.

Here is a pic of a winch I rebuilt. Definitely came in handy dealing with this thing by myself.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/56347875/30t Winch-1.jpg

 

[Strouty]

A bridge crane is on my project list as well. I bought a used underslung one, that is similar to the gorbel, but I think it is a spanco. It is rated at 2000 pounds, but appears to be a lot beefier than the newer ones. I also have a shorter ceiling (12'6") so I have not installed it yet. I keep thinking that I may build one more like old car guy's crane. In order to fit my space, I need to modify it or have a large dead spot. My crane has overall dimension of 40' by 26' but the actual bridge is just under 20' due to the design. I do have two bridges, my guess is the reason it is a 2000 pound was that it had two bridges. I have always admired OCG and his shop. I have a mohawk TP15 lift that I bought an underground line kit for so that when I put the bridge in it will clear the top of the lift without an issue. The lift has yet to be installed yet, I am beginning to think I have commitment issues.

 

[e-tek]

Hey Stouty - that size would be PERFECT for my shop. Too bad the world wasn't as easy to navigate as is the net! Don't let me erect one before you get yours up!

 

[e-tek]

I was just watching some YT vids of guys with cranes. Man it'd be nice to move a car (shell) sideways, turn it around, lift it off the rotisserie or lifting one end to put the suspension under it!

 

[Strouty]

Hey Stouty - that size would be PERFECT for my shop. Too bad the world wasn't as easy to navigate as is the net! Don't let me erect one before you get yours up!

If you were closer I would probably let you have it, the damn thing has been in my way for a few years now. My dad is building his bridge crane, it is a five ton that covers the entire 40' x 80' shop. He has like 20' ceilings so he will be able to do everything that I dream about. I should take some pictures of his when I get over there. I have been trying to get him to join, but he hasn't gotten interested in the idea of a forum yet.

 

[TheOtherChris]

http://freebeamsizer.com/ is a great place to start for getting an idea of what size W beam you need for span and capacity

 

[OldCarGuy]

The following link shows their cost and recommended beam sizes for packaged top running or under-hung bridge cranes that Goodwin sells. At the bottom of the page they recommend a 10" I-beam for 1,000 pound capacity bridge in a 20 to 22 foot span...

http://www.lkgoodwin.com/more_info/...es/series_300_manual_medium_duty_cranes.shtml