Help reassembling 2 stage compressor

[Cebby]

Hey all -

Scored a Big Red Air Machine 80 gallon vertical tank and a Schultz MSV30MAX pump. I was told by the seller that they were originally assembled together with a 7.5hp motor which is long gone. Aside from what appears to be remnants of a butchered pressure switch, that's all I have to start with.

I've never had a 2 stage compressor but have been doing a lot of research on what all this needs to be complete and run. Looking for confirmation and or suggestions for alternatives based on my list.

So here's the build list:

Big Red Air Machines 80 gallon vertical tank (HAVE)

Schultz MSV30MAX two-stage 175PSI pump (HAVE)
- has 420mm flywheel ~ 16.535"
- 820 rpm

Leeson 140155 - 7.5hp single phase 1725rpm electric motor (ORDERED-IN)
http://www.leeson.com/leeson/search...ProductDetails&motorNo=140155.00&productType=

Double Groove Pulley 8.0" (online calculator said 7.7/8" dia) (ORDERED-IN)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121150608778

Check Valve 3/4" NPT (ORDERED-IN)
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/63682223

Pressure Switch 135/175 PSI 4 port 26a w/unloader (ORDERED)
https://rite-products.com/air-rite/condor-mdr11-series-4-port-140-175-psi-26-amp.html

Magnetic Starter 7.5hp single phase 220v 40a (ORDERED)
https://rite-products.com/air-rite/...phase-magnetic-starter-40a-220v-50-60-hz.html

Adjustable Motor Mount (ORDERED-IN)
http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/35439017

Pressure Relief Valve 200 psi 30+ cfm (ORDERED-IN)
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/32150955

Cold Start Valve (ORDERED-IN)
http://www.zoro.com/cdi-control-dev...J5JYnDWmKcd8J_mez3X3jBoC5M_w_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Then of course belts, gauges, regulator, drain, etc. but I want to get the big things figured out/ordered.

How's this all look?

 

[Burgerkong]

You might also want a tensioning motor mount as well. Helps a bunch when mounting the belts.

 

[Cebby]

Thanks - added one to the list.

 

[Cebby]

Question on Pressure Relief Valve - what value should I get? Pump Max is 175 psi, Tank Max is 200 psi. Do I go with the Pump rating?

 

[gdh33]

tank rating. Make sure it flows at least max cfm.

 

[jonjon1]

I would grab one of these guys.
http://www.zoro.com/cdi-control-dev...J5JYnDWmKcd8J_mez3X3jBoC5M_w_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

and the plumbing to make it work, or get a 1/8" one and get a check valve with double ports..

I started using them and I can tell the motor pulls less amps when starting, its easier on the motor, panel, lights, pump..
It lets the pump sing a few rams before it shuts the air leak.. genius...

 

[Cebby]

tank rating. Make sure it flows at least max cfm.

Thanks - got one on order.

I would grab one of these guys.
http://www.zoro.com/cdi-control-dev...J5JYnDWmKcd8J_mez3X3jBoC5M_w_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

and the plumbing to make it work, or get a 1/8" one and get a check valve with double ports..

I started using them and I can tell the motor pulls less amps when starting, its easier on the motor, panel, lights, pump..
It lets the pump sing a few rams before it shuts the air leak.. genius...

Thanks - I've not heard of those but love the idea since my garage is only heated when I'm in it. If it will help with longevity of parts, it's cheap insurance. Ordered one up.

 

[Cebby]

Parts are starting to show up I've got a few remaining subjects to tackle - namely cooling/filtering and regulator.

I'm not planning to run an oiler - I'm in the habit of oiling my tools, so I'd rather not even waste the money on it.

For cooling the air to hopefully take a good amount of moisture out before it gets to the tank and filter I liked this solution: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=191934. Namely, the Franzinator and the cooler - although I will mount the cooler to the pulley guard (that I need to make) instead of adding an electric fan to the mix.

I was looking at the Milton stuff to have at the tank:

Regulator
https://www.jbtoolsales.com/milton-1026-8-regulator-midsize-3-4-npt/

Filter
https://www.jbtoolsales.com/milton-1022-10-filter-3-4-npt-metal-20-oz/

I also have a old, never used Sharpe F88M Filter that I'll mount away from the tank just for painting.

Figured I'd get some cheaper regulators to have at the drops

Think this will do the job? (I'll be blasting, air tools and doing some painting)

 

[Burgerkong]

Ooooo, I almost forgot, you may want to invest in an auto drain for either the coalescing filter you linked to or the tank or both.

 

[Cebby]

For the tank, I had been looking at this one:

http://www.rite-products.com/Moistu...-152-0000-300-PSI-14-NPT-Ports_p_800394.html#

I like that it requires no electricity and it empties constantly.

The Milton filter has an "automatic overnight drain" - do you know how those work?

 

[Cebby]

I got my pulley yesterday and while it's keyed - as is the motor - there is no set screw on it. Do I need to drill and tap it for a set screw or does key do an adequate job of keeping the pulley from walking off of the motor shaft?

 

[jallyn]

I got my pulley yesterday and while it's keyed - as is the motor - there is no set screw on it. Do I need to drill and tap it for a set screw or does key do an adequate job of keeping the pulley from walking off of the motor shaft?

Mechanical fits that you don't want to move require interference. If it is a ***** to get the pulley on to the motor shaft, that means it has interference and is a good thing as it won't walk off. If, however, it slips over fairly easily you have a clearance fit which will not last. So if it slips over fairly easily, then you should introduce interference in the way you said, namely set-screws. If you do a set-screw I recommend doing two of them. One over the key and one 90 degrees from the key-way. You may even want to start a small divot in the shaft where the set-screw lands for added security.

 

[md21722]

For the tank, I had been looking at this one:

http://www.rite-products.com/Moistu...-152-0000-300-PSI-14-NPT-Ports_p_800394.html#

I like that it requires no electricity and it empties constantly.

The Milton filter has an "automatic overnight drain" - do you know how those work?

When air pressure drops to zero, it will drain. If your system does not have any air leaks, then you need to manually take the pressure away so it will drain.

 

[Cebby]

When air pressure drops to zero, it will drain. If your system does not have any air leaks, then you need to manually take the pressure away so it will drain.

So coming from the tank, if I put a valve before the filter, I could close it off to separate it from the tank, release the pressure from a hose and then it would drain (theoretically)?

 

[bochnak]

TP tools has a nice water sep and reg combo:

http://www.tptools.com/1and2-Standard-Regulator-Separator-Combo,7443.html?b=d*8088

 

[Cebby]

Looks like the magnetic starter and pressure switch parts I ordered went on backorder after I bought them - not interested in waiting around, so looking for alternatives to these:

Pressure Switch 135/175 PSI 4 port 26a w/unloader (ORDERED)
https://rite-products.com/air-rite/condor-mdr11-series-4-port-140-175-psi-26-amp.html

I like having an auto-off switch on the pressure switch, but it's not a deal breaker if not available.

Magnetic Starter 7.5hp single phase 220v 40a (ORDERED)
https://rite-products.com/air-rite/...phase-magnetic-starter-40a-220v-50-60-hz.html

My Leeson motor is rated at 36 FL Amps & 40.5 SF amps - is a 40a starter going to do the job?

 

[Cebby]

TP tools has a nice water sep and reg combo:

http://www.tptools.com/1and2-Standard-Regulator-Separator-Combo,7443.html?b=d*8088

I'm looking for 3/4" off the tank for eventual 3/4 piping main run - the TP Tools combo unit in 3/4" only goes up to 125 psi. Would be nice to have more for stubborn nuts with my impact.

 

[Packard V8]

I got my pulley yesterday and while it's keyed - as is the motor - there is no set screw on it. Do I need to drill and tap it for a set screw or does key do an adequate job of keeping the pulley from walking off of the motor shaft?

A 7.5hp motor pulley should usually be a two-piece tapered hub design which locks itself when tightened. I wouldn't put a straight bore pulley in that application.

jack vines

 

[Cebby]

A 7.5hp motor pulley should usually be a two-piece tapered hub design which locks itself when tightened. I wouldn't put a straight bore pulley in that application.

jack vines

Thanks for the info - does this combination look to be a better solution for the pulley?

Bushing:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lx1-3-8-Bal...ing-Hx1-3-8-/351203243883?hash=item51c558376b (ORDERED-IN)

Pulley:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2MAL82-Mask...265268?hash=item359de482b4:g:L2sAAOxyVX1Rv4Ji (ORDERED-IN)

 

[R.Anderson]

So where's are the pictures of this build?

 

[Cebby]

Pics are coming... Right after I got the tank & pump, I also received a bunch of kitchen cabinets that clogged up my garage. I need to spend some time getting all that stuff organized so I have some room to actually take pics.

 

[Cebby]

Still waiting on RITE products for the pressure switch and magnetic starter. Got the motor from them (drop shipped from Leeson), but for whatever reason the other items on my order from 1/22 has gone unfulfilled so far. I've called them twice and both times was promised a call back and nothing so far.

I scored a used Norgren Filter/Regulator on eBay for $65 shipped (found new elsewhere for $185+ ship) and also picked up a mounting bracket. The Norgren piece I got is model B74G 6AK AD1 RMG which when broken down has the following features:

3/4" PTF ports, knob adjustment, automatic drain, metal bowl, 5 micron element, 5-150 psi with gauge.

 

[Cebby]

Finally getting this thing together (I think I have all the parts I need). I disassembled what was attached to the tank and found oil & some water in the tank. The original petcock style drain was still on the bottom and there was a valve on the port about a foot up on the tank that had a curved copper pipe to reach the bottom of the tank and drain it I suspect (although I doubt it ever completely drained the tank.

Fortunately, the water/oil mix that came out of the tank didn't show any rust, so the oil must have saved it. I'm installing an elbow and valve on the bottom of the tank but thought I'd try to give the inside of the tank a cleaning first.

I found this thread on the HAMB (http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/air-compressor-clean-out.587396/) and figured I'd go the Simple Green route - any other/better ideas?

 

[Cebby]

Finally have some pics - and I need some help, I have the majority of the plumbing figured out, but have questions regarding the pump and motor

How do I mount the pulley/sheave? Pics illustrate what I'm dealing with - need some explicit directions:

Is that too much shaft sticking out of the motor (that's what she said...). The motor position is pretty much set, but the pump can be in and out and left to riight.

 

[American Locomotive]

Put the pulley where you want it, slide the inner sleeve in with a key installed, then tighten the two bolts. The two pull the sleeve into the pulley, which locks it to the motor shaft.

 

[Cebby]

Put the pulley where you want it, slide the inner sleeve in with a key installed, then tighten the two bolts. The two pull the sleeve into the pulley, which locks it to the motor shaft.

Thank you - that helps a lot.

I have the pump in the factory holes currently, but with the proximity to the motor, is there any benefit to moving it away from the motor and out so the motor pulley isn't so far in on the motor shaft?

Moving the pump away from the motor will also allow me to use more of the adjustment in the motor mounting plate, but I don't know how much I'll actually need (didn't pick up drive belts yet).

 

[jl4c]

Thank you - that helps a lot.

I have the pump in the factory holes currently, but with the proximity to the motor, is there any benefit to moving it away from the motor and out so the motor pulley isn't so far in on the motor shaft?

Moving the pump away from the motor will also allow me to use more of the adjustment in the motor mounting plate, but I don't know how much I'll actually need (didn't pick up drive belts yet).

By mounting the pulley close to the motor you reduce the overhung load. This helps the bearings in the motor last longer. As long as the sheave (pulley) isn't hitting anything, it doesn't hurt to have it close to the motor.