Help Supporting Overhead Shelf

[Colin Len]

I’d like to install a 24” deep by ~12’ long shelf on the left wall of my garage and looking for some suggestions and ideas for how best to support it from above. Since it’s so high up I don’t plan on storing heavy things up there but 300-500lbs maybe is a realistic estimate of what it would need to safely hold.

The current idea is to build a box frame from 2x4s and lag two sides to the garage walls. But it would still need some additional support along the leading edge. I figure I can either connect to the ridge beam (4” thick parallam) or to the roof rafters.

In the pic, the blue represents roughly the location of the shelf and the green would be where the shelf would connect to the beam above.

I’m hoping for some suggestions on the best course forward. I’ve thought of using chain or wire cable (more likely if I attach to rafters). And I’ve also thought about using a 4x4 “post” so I could use a Simpson tie between the post and beam.

 

[four.cycle]

I’ve thought of using chain or wire cable (more likely if I attach to rafters).

In the house my mother and late step-father lived in over in Fircrest, I had to fabricate a shelf up above a wall of shelving - about 7 feet off the floor. I had a window in the middle, so I did two sections: framed with 1" x 2", with 1/2" plywood attached with drywall screws.
Tacked a strip of 1" x 2" against the wall to support the inside edge of the shelf. Suspended the outer edge with 1/8" steel cable using the usual screw eyes and cable clamps. Went straight up to the ceiling joists with 1/4" screw eyes.
Originally it was intended to just hold Mom's Christmas decorations, which weigh almost nothing.
Her housekeeper stacked up cases of wine glasses and boxes of tax records up on one end of it - so ... it ended up supporting several hundred pounds at one end.

YMMV

 

[Colin Len]

In the house my mother and late step-father lived in over in Fircrest, I had to fabricate a shelf up above a wall of shelving - about 7 feet off the floor. I had a window in the middle, so I did two sections: framed with 1" x 2", with 1/2" plywood attached with drywall screws.
Tacked a strip of 1" x 2" against the wall to support the inside edge of the shelf. Suspended the outer edge with 1/8" steel cable using the usual screw eyes and cable clamps. Went straight up to the ceiling joists with 1/4" screw eyes.
Originally it was intended to just hold Mom's Christmas decorations, which weigh almost nothing.
Her housekeeper stacked up cases of wine glasses and boxes of tax records up on one end of it - so ... it ended up supporting several hundred pounds at one end.

YMMV

Thanks for that data point. I had actually wondered if I could get away with 2x2 instead of 2x4 just to keep the shelf thinner and less bulky looking. I probably should do some span calcs for reference.

What you did with the cables and eye screws is exactly what one of my options would be. Not sure on sizing but obviously I'd do some research/calcs on that prior to buying the hardware. If I use this method I would attach to the rafters since it doesn't sound like a good idea to screw an eye into the bottom of the paralam due to how it's constructed (high risk of pull out).

 

[four.cycle]

OH! re: "pull-out"
I used big fender washers above and below the 1/4-20 screw eyes to insure nothing like that would happen.
I just used cheapie 1" x 2" furring strips for the "frame" - 24" x 96" - with a "thwart" of sorts in the center. Glued and then all secured with drywall screws.
1/8" steel cable will hold a whole mess of weight if it's a static load.

 

[bsakal]

Here's how I did mine. I used 2x4's at a 45 degree angle. There is solid blocking between the studs behind the shelf where it's lagged in. You could use a chain to support it from the beam above.

 

[four.cycle]

Like so:

I used 2x4's at a 45 degree angle

I was not able to do it that way because immediately below this shelf was a wall of cabinets. This shelf was suspended only about 10 or 12 inches above the tops of those cabinets, which lined that entire wall of the garage.

 

[CGT80]

I used 1x1 inch steel sq tube and welded frames for my shelves. Timberlock screws through the tube and into the studs horizontally are very strong. There are a few vertical posts up to the ceiling with flat stock tabs and more timberlock screws into ceiling joists. 7/16 osb sits on the frame as the shelf. it is all painted the same as the walls and ceiling...swiss coffee, so it looks good.

2x2 boards are likely to split, compared to 2x4. My shelves hold a lot of stuff and the weight adds up. Steel kept a thin profile and that is really important in the small space I have.

 

[CGT80]

Cable or chain is a good idea. A simple bracket or plate to side screw, with a hole or eye for the cable would be easy. Timberlock screws are structural and I wouldn't want to use an eye hook either. Some eye hooks have a joint and long threaded bolt to run horizontal through a beam and the eye swivels downward. For heavy duty use, I weld the eye shut on a typical eye bolt....maybe overkill but easy to do.

 

[carlaisle]

No need to make this complicated. Simple lumber construction like bsakal's or even easier brackets and ply.

https://www.menards.com/main/storage-organization/shelves-shelving-units/shelf-brackets-accessories/performax-reg-heavy-duty-shelf-bracket/dfg1589/p-1642874345729755-c-12645.htm

 

[Colin Len]

OH! re: "pull-out"
I used big fender washers above and below the 1/4-20 screw eyes to insure nothing like that would happen.
I just used cheapie 1" x 2" furring strips for the "frame" - 24" x 96" - with a "thwart" of sorts in the center. Glued and then all secured with drywall screws.
1/8" steel cable will hold a whole mess of weight if it's a static load.

Actually, it was the upper mounting point I was referring to, not the lower. Specifically the concern would be having pull out tension on a screw that was screwed into the parallam beam. My understanding is that these types of beams are very strong, structurally when it comes to loads but not all that strong when it comes to pullout of hardware that's in tension.

Here's how I did mine. I used 2x4's at a 45 degree angle. There is solid blocking between the studs behind the shelf where it's lagged in. You could use a chain to support it from the beam above.

Looks great, nicely done. But I need mine to be supported from above due to things that will be on the wall below the shelf (no room for the shelf to be supported from below).

Like so:



I was not able to do it that way because immediately below this shelf was a wall of cabinets. This shelf was suspended only about 10 or 12 inches above the tops of those cabinets, which lined that entire wall of the garage.

I will also have cabinets below mine but I plan to install the shelf first and cabinets later. So I should have access from below. I don't want any visible hardware on the bottom but there are plenty of workarounds to make that possible.

I used 1x1 inch steel sq tube and welded frames for my shelves. Timberlock screws through the tube and into the studs horizontally are very strong. There are a few vertical posts up to the ceiling with flat stock tabs and more timberlock screws into ceiling joists. 7/16 osb sits on the frame as the shelf. it is all painted the same as the walls and ceiling...swiss coffee, so it looks good.

2x2 boards are likely to split, compared to 2x4. My shelves hold a lot of stuff and the weight adds up. Steel kept a thin profile and that is really important in the small space I have.

Steel is very tempting. And I do have a welder. But I'm assuming the cost will be significantly higher and likely more time consuming to build. But, you've got me reconsidering metal. Thank you.

Cable or chain is a good idea. A simple bracket or plate to side screw, with a hole or eye for the cable would be easy. Timberlock screws are structural and I wouldn't want to use an eye hook either. Some eye hooks have a joint and long threaded bolt to run horizontal through a beam and the eye swivels downward. For heavy duty use, I weld the eye shut on a typical eye bolt....maybe overkill but easy to do.

I'd wondered about drilling straight thru the beam like you mention. I'm a little reluctant to drill a hole all the way thru but this is definitely an option. Thank you.

 

[Colin Len]

No need to make this complicated. Simple lumber construction like bsakal's or even easier brackets and ply.

https://www.menards.com/main/storage-organization/shelves-shelving-units/shelf-brackets-accessories/performax-reg-heavy-duty-shelf-bracket/dfg1589/p-1642874345729755-c-12645.htm

My understanding is that these really need to be installed under a shelf in order to achieve their stated ratings and I don't have room under the shelf. I'm trying to support the shelf from above, not below.

 

[carlaisle]

My understanding is that these really need to be installed under a shelf in order to achieve their stated ratings and I don't have room under the shelf. I'm trying to support the shelf from above, not below.

You are correct. I did not see a requirement that the shelf needed to be completely clear underneath. In this case, your idea to support from above is sound. 12' is too long of a span for a 2x4 without visible sagging under load. You will need a midspan support to the ceiling or other form of midspan support. A granite countertop bracket might work for an off the shelf solution or something could be fabbed easily enough.

 

[no704]

Cable or allthread rod.

 

[wssix99]

You can't support the shelf from the roof because your roof isn't designed to take (even small) point loads. Even small amounts of weight can be a big problem, particularly when coming from below the roof.

The answer is to support the shelf from the floor or the wall. For the weight you are talking about... I would just get two wall-mounted tire racks, mount them to the wall and then build a shelf that runs across and through the supports:

 

[four.cycle]

Actually, it was the upper mounting point I was referring to,

Ahhh... gotcha.
I went up into the ceiling joists in a house built in 1959 - pretty solid (and probably straight-grain) Douglas fir.
I was actually amazed that it held the weight they piled up on it - as I said, it was intended for Christmas decorations, not cases of wine glasses and lawyer boxes stuffed full of old tax records from a business.

12' is too long of a span for a 2x4 without visible sagging under load.

YES.
When they built the shelves at the plant to hold the engine cores, the vertical "ladder" supports were spaced about six feet apart - pretty much the same as I set them up when I tore them down and installed them in my garage.
The decking on these is all 2 x 4, or 2 x 6, or 2 x 8, except on the top deck, which is 1" x 12" pine.
These shelves were originally used to hold engine cores in the plant. (A Chrysler 318LA long block (less tinware and manifolds) weighs 325 pounds, for reference.) These will hold anything I can put on them.
YMMV

 

[tarmy]

Here is an idea…All thread suspended from rafters. Use Simpson earthquake hold downs. Very stron and adjustable.

 

[carlaisle]

There's no need to worry about the point load provided that is a structural ridge beam in your picture and you stick with your stated 500lb WLL for the entire shelf. The gable wall is carrying half the weight. The right side wall is carrying a quarter of the weight. That means the one suspended corner only needs to support 125 lbs. If you add a midspan support (highly recommended), that will further reduce the suspended point load. Just make sure your means of attachment for the suspended support is adequate to the task.

 

[CraigStu]

I had a previous garage w/ shelf like bsakal except the support was cable to the ceiling. Mine was on the gable wall so there was a truss right above the outer edge of the 2ft deep shelf. You can drop the plywood down to 3/8" if you want. If you are concerned about using eye screws into a ceiling/roof rafter just use 2 or 3 vs one. Use long 5/16" or 3/8" and predrill the holes. We lived there 20+ years, there was a cable support every 3ft or so and they were never in the way. It took me 15 yr to decide to straighten up the accumulated stuff up there. I waited for HD or L to have a sale on clear storage containers and bought enough to fill the 20ft shelf. BTW another option is cabinets. On another wall in that same garage I ended up w/ 8 30" wide by 36" tall unfinished kitchen wall cabinets. I brushed on some light grey solid color stain and hung them w/ 4 on the wall far enough off the floor that large rubbermaid plastic containers would fit under. The next 4 went on the wall about 6" above the lower four. This gave me a nice little shelf in between to store pieces of wood trim and pvc pipe. The only disadvantage to kitchen cabinets is you can't usually find them over 15" deep.

 

[Colin Len]

You can't support the shelf from the roof because your roof isn't designed to take (even small) point loads. Even small amounts of weight can be a big problem, particularly when coming from below the roof.

The answer is to support the shelf from the floor or the wall. For the weight you are talking about... I would just get two wall-mounted tire racks, mount them to the wall and then build a shelf that runs across and through the supports:

How much load do you think each rafter can take? For reference, each rafter consists of a 2x4 sistered to a 2x6. This is an odd setup due to being converted from a ridge board to ridge beam and vaulting the ceiling. My preference would be to attach to the beam as it is designed to take plenty of weight. Those tire racks are not a suitable solution to what I'm trying to achieve. I have two of them elsewhere for storing wheels.

Here is an idea…All thread suspended from rafters. Use Simpson earthquake hold downs. Very stron and adjustable.

Do you have a link to this product? I'm not seeing anything obvious which would be used to hold all thread to a rafter. I'd prefer not to have to cut the ceiling open though so this isn't ideal.

There's no need to worry about the point load provided that is a structural ridge beam in your picture and you stick with your stated 500lb WLL for the entire shelf. The gable wall is carrying half the weight. The right side wall is carrying a quarter of the weight. That means the one suspended corner only needs to support 125 lbs. If you add a midspan support (highly recommended), that will further reduce the suspended point load. Just make sure your means of attachment for the suspended support is adequate to the task.

A secondary point is an option. I'd prefer not to have one but definitely on the table. I know I can add rigidity to the shelf so it doesn't bow but the load on the roof/beam is the only concern.

I had a previous garage w/ shelf like bsakal except the support was cable to the ceiling. Mine was on the gable wall so there was a truss right above the outer edge of the 2ft deep shelf. You can drop the plywood down to 3/8" if you want. If you are concerned about using eye screws into a ceiling/roof rafter just use 2 or 3 vs one. Use long 5/16" or 3/8" and predrill the holes. We lived there 20+ years, there was a cable support every 3ft or so and they were never in the way. It took me 15 yr to decide to straighten up the accumulated stuff up there. I waited for HD or L to have a sale on clear storage containers and bought enough to fill the 20ft shelf. BTW another option is cabinets. On another wall in that same garage I ended up w/ 8 30" wide by 36" tall unfinished kitchen wall cabinets. I brushed on some light grey solid color stain and hung them w/ 4 on the wall far enough off the floor that large rubbermaid plastic containers would fit under. The next 4 went on the wall about 6" above the lower four. This gave me a nice little shelf in between to store pieces of wood trim and pvc pipe. The only disadvantage to kitchen cabinets is you can't usually find them over 15" deep.

The difference here is I'm trying to get away with as few cables/supports as possible for both aesthetic and practical reasons. One is ideal but I realize it may be prudent to add a second.

Cabinets aren't an option because of the vaulted ceiling. Square cabinets aren't going to fit well in a triangular space. I do plan to have cabinets BELOW this shelf but want the upper shelf above the cabinets so I have somewhere up high to stash more stuff. It's a very tiny garage and we have a very small house so storage space needs to be maximized.

 

[Colin Len]

You are correct. I did not see a requirement that the shelf needed to be completely clear underneath. In this case, your idea to support from above is sound. 12' is too long of a span for a 2x4 without visible sagging under load. You will need a midspan support to the ceiling or other form of midspan support. A granite countertop bracket might work for an off the shelf solution or something could be fabbed easily enough.

I need to confirm with span tables but it was my intention to increase the number of 2x4's used in order to prevent deflecting of the shelf. Depending on the location and number of upper supports I think 2-3 2x4's should handle it.

Cable or allthread rod.

Yes, this I know. But I'm looking for help on how to attach these (specifically to the rafters and/or beam).

 

[tarmy]

the product is simply electric conduit hanger pieces. The verticals are 5/8” threaded rod. I bought earthquake foundation tie downs that have a 30”or so ******** a base that is very strong designed to have a foundation bolt on it (HD or Lowe’s has them…about 30 bucks). Bent the strop to fit up and over the rafters and thru bolted them in the middle of the chord. Works great…easy to source and can be adjusted easily. You do need to cut the drywall to access things.

 

[ray h]

Like so:



I was not able to do it that way because immediately below this shelf was a wall of cabinets. This shelf was suspended only about 10 or 12 inches above the tops of those cabinets, which lined that entire wall of the garage.

I did the same thing but instead of the cable I used All Thread rods which I had a lot of.

 

[signcrafter]

I need to confirm with span tables but it was my intention to increase the number of 2x4's used in order to prevent deflecting of the shelf. Depending on the location and number of upper supports I think 2-3 2x4's should handle it.


Yes, this I know. But I'm looking for help on how to attach these (specifically to the rafters and/or beam).

Sammy lag bolts are one option to use with all thread. Not sure it's the best option but it's one.

 

[nadogail]

I have had good luck with using lag bolts in shear rather than tension. 3/8 Running Thread rod has been plenty strong enough to support the the 4x8 OSB panels that rest on 2” cross members.
Unistrut would have been stronger but it was more expensive.
I try to keep the distance between supports to 48” or less.

 

[tarbellb]

Sammy Lag bolt into ceiling rafters
3/8" all thread (or heavier)
3/4 osb shelf material
unistrut leading edge support
2x4 cleat on wall for back edge support

Takes couple hours to build and install

 

[racecougar]

Best pic I have on hand at the moment of a shelf that's been up in one of our shops for ~40 years. All-thread to plates wrapping the bottom chord of the truss above. Not ideal, but I didn't put it up, and it has held up just fine.

 

[quadrcr87]

Rather than build my own I bought Newage shelves, I know that's not the GJ way, but I like them and it was quick & easy. The way they are cable supported would work well for you and allow you to hide the hardware on the bottom. They run the cable down to the corner of the shelf where it wraps a pulley and is attached about 4" away from the corner on the side or top of the shelf.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/NewAge-Products-Pro-Series-2-ft-x-8-ft-Wall-Mounted-Steel-Shelf-2-0-in-Black/5016707099?store=&cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-tah-_-bng-_-PMAX_TAH_000_Priority_Item-_-5016707099-_-Online-_-0-_-0&gclid=68f89333f58317ebc3f6fabcdb11e1ec&gclsrc=3p.ds&msclkid=68f89333f58317ebc3f6fabcdb11e1ec&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PMAX_TAH_000_Priority_Item&utm_term=2333232394078313&utm_content=PMAX_TAH_Tool-Storage-_Tool-Chests-Cabinets%20*

 

[Colin Len]

Sammy lag bolts are one option to use with all thread. Not sure it's the best option but it's one.

Those are very interesting, I had no idea something like that existed. Thank you for sharing, I'm going to look into these more.

I have had good luck with using lag bolts in shear rather than tension. 3/8 Running Thread rod has been plenty strong enough to support the the 4x8 OSB panels that rest on 2” cross members.
Unistrut would have been stronger but it was more expensive.
I try to keep the distance between supports to 48” or less.

I've been thinking a lot about sheer vs tension for this project as there are some different options based on how I set it all up. With tear out being a concern it does seem like heavy duty hardware in shear would help aleviate that concern. The issue is how exactly to get it setup that way.

Sammy Lag bolt into ceiling rafters
3/8" all thread (or heavier)
3/4 osb shelf material
unistrut leading edge support
2x4 cleat on wall for back edge support

Takes couple hours to build and install

This is super slick, thank you for sharing! Very clean installation and now has me thinking this may have the best "look" to it from all the ideas I've had so far. The issue here, however, is that my ceiling is angled, not flat. So I can't screw straight up into the ceiling in the same way. I suppose I could drive the sammy bolt vertical which would put it driving into the rafter at an angle. Which might work, depending on the specifics. I suppose I could maybe install some angled blocking under the rafter as well to create a flat area for the bolt to seat on. Definitely something to look into a little more. Thank you.

Best pic I have on hand at the moment of a shelf that's been up in one of our shops for ~40 years. All-thread to plates wrapping the bottom chord of the truss above. Not ideal, but I didn't put it up, and it has held up just fine.

This looks great! Very similar to what I'm trying to accomplish. Any chance you have any pics or info regarding the left side of the shelf where the ceiling is anchored? Did you attach all thread to that angled ceiling as well? I'm really liking this all thread setup but a little unsure how best to make it work with my angled ceiling.

Rather than build my own I bought Newage shelves, I know that's not the GJ way, but I like them and it was quick & easy. The way they are cable supported would work well for you and allow you to hide the hardware on the bottom. They run the cable down to the corner of the shelf where it wraps a pulley and is attached about 4" away from the corner on the side or top of the shelf.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/NewAge-Products-Pro-Series-2-ft-x-8-ft-Wall-Mounted-Steel-Shelf-2-0-in-Black/5016707099?store=&cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-tah-_-bng-_-PMAX_TAH_000_Priority_Item-_-5016707099-_-Online-_-0-_-0&gclid=68f89333f58317ebc3f6fabcdb11e1ec&gclsrc=3p.ds&msclkid=68f89333f58317ebc3f6fabcdb11e1ec&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PMAX_TAH_000_Priority_Item&utm_term=2333232394078313&utm_content=PMAX_TAH_Tool-Storage-_Tool-Chests-Cabinets%20*

Funny you should mention these. I actually have some. Bought 'em on sale thinking they would be the easy solution to this overhead storage conundrum. But, after really diving into the details of the install I found my specific layout to be problematic. They're really made for flat ceilings and have limited options for how to get the support cables setup. Specifically, my situation means that these supports need to be different lengths when they're designed to be the same length. Ultimately I decided it'll probably be easier to just build my own.

 

[racecougar]

This looks great! Very similar to what I'm trying to accomplish. Any chance you have any pics or info regarding the left side of the shelf where the ceiling is anchored? Did you attach all thread to that angled ceiling as well? I'm really liking this all thread setup but a little unsure how best to make it work with my angled ceiling.

If I remember, I'll take some photos tomorrow when I'm at that shop. I didn't do the install, so I don't know off-hand.

 

[Colin Len]

If I remember, I'll take some photos tomorrow when I'm at that shop. I didn't do the install, so I don't know off-hand.

Much appreciated!

I'm definitely leaning more towards this all thread idea now rather than cable. Looks like there are even some of the sammy style screws (but Simpson brand) available locally at a semi-nearby Home Depot.

 

[tarbellb]

Your angled rafters do present extra effort. I would grab a hole saw and cut out your drywall to see what youre working with.

You will also be able to put on eyes on how you fasten in your lag anchor, might just notch with a multi-tool for a parallel surface?

My system was super easy to install, paint the cleat and underside of the shelf material for a cleaner look. Use the Unistrut, makes the leveling and plumbing of the all-thread very quick.

Ive probably got 1500+lbs on those shelves, my anchors are spaced 48" using 3/8".

 

[dave*99]

How about 2" steel angle iron in place of the green line? Lag bolts in shear into the ridge and bolts in shear in the shelf frame? If you need it, strengthen the front edge of the shelf frame with angle iron.

 

[signcrafter]

Those are very interesting, I had no idea something like that existed. Thank you for sharing, I'm going to look into these more.

Here's a tire rack and shelf I built using unistrut, all thread, and Sammy hangers.

 

[Colin Len]

Your angled rafters do present extra effort. I would grab a hole saw and cut out your drywall to see what youre working with.

You will also be able to put on eyes on how you fasten in your lag anchor, might just notch with a multi-tool for a parallel surface?

My system was super easy to install, paint the cleat and underside of the shelf material for a cleaner look. Use the Unistrut, makes the leveling and plumbing of the all-thread very quick.

Ive probably got 1500+lbs on those shelves, my anchors are spaced 48" using 3/8".

Currently I'm thinking I'll use a 1-1.5" hole saw to remove a small piece of drywall on the ceiling where the upper anchor needs to go. That will let the anchor get full extension into the rafter without the drywall spacing it out. The tricky part will be getting that anchor installed perfectly vertical. Not ideal that it'll be angled rather than perpendicularly inserted into the rafter but I think it'll be fine. I can go back in later and fill any gaps with drywall mud or possible just us some sort of escutcheon.

How about 2" steel angle iron in place of the green line? Lag bolts in shear into the ridge and bolts in shear in the shelf frame? If you need it, strengthen the front edge of the shelf frame with angle iron.

That's a great idea. Although I was originally leaning towards attaching to the beam I've drifted away from that and now feel it'll be better to attach to the ceiling in two places. Mainly I think this will just look better. I really like the look of the beam across the ceiling and after thinking about if I have stuff attached to it that beam it won't have the same visual effect. From what I've seen here now the all thread idea is simple, clean and is almost invisible.

 

[Colin Len]

Here's a tire rack and shelf I built using unistrut, all thread, and Sammy hangers.

Looks great!

 

[dave*99]

Looks great!

Is there good reason not to go all the way to the left wall? A center support and a wall to wall shelf?

 

[Colin Len]

Is there good reason not to go all the way to the left wall? A center support and a wall to wall shelf?

There is actually! The garage door




To an extent this configuration limits overhead storage options but it was a trade off I made in order to get better headroom and to just generally make the space look and feel larger than it is.

 

[rd65]

Right or wrong, this is what I did. Eye bolts go into ceiling joists with the wall 2x4s lag bolted to wall beams. I also installed wall cleats below in a couple of areas for more support. I placed the heavier bins in the left corner since it offers more support. It's been hanging as is since 2018.

 

[dave*99]

There is actually! The garage door




To an extent this configuration limits overhead storage options but it was a trade off I made in order to get better headroom and to just generally make the space look and feel larger than it is.

I had a similar shelf in a similar space in my old garage. How deep is the space between the door track and wall? Deep enough for your shelf? Or a tapered of stepped shelf? Will it be dead space without a shelf?

 

[Colin Len]

I had a similar shelf in a similar space in my old garage. How deep is the space between the door track and wall? Deep enough for your shelf? Or a tapered of stepped shelf? Will it be dead space without a shelf?

There's less than 12" of space between the track and the wall. But due to the torsion bar and drum there's even less space than that in the corner where the shelf would need to terminate into that wall - maybe 4-6" of space there. There are definitely some ways to step the shelf back to be shallower in that area but attaching the very end to the wall becomes a little problematic. I don't think the extra effort and materials would be worth it.