Help with hardscaping

[ive]

Hi all.

im doing a project at my newly purchased home. i have some pavers to install, a pad that will be going from the shed to the house. i have a problem, the house and the shed are not parellel to eachother.

does anyone have any ideas on how I can get a nice crisp look even though these 2 lines are not parellel?

thanks so much.

 

[ive]

Here is a pic showing my problem.

 

[ive]

Another attempt at the picture

 

[ive]

The pavers will be going between the house and the shed. You can see how the shed is skewed. Any advice on how I can make the pavers look real nice?

Thank you.

 

[ace10]

3 options than can think of...

Gentle curve. More work.
Straight line with the final course cut at a non90 degree angle.

I think the best option is to probably come straight off the house and then put one direction adjustment somewhere in the middle in order to line up with the shed.
You get to chose the exact spot of the direction change and will have the least awkward cuts.

 

[Higgins]

Run the sidewalk straight but at an angle between the two structures. That way you only need to cut the starter course at either end!

AL

 

[rjacobs]

put a border around the whole thing and the herringbone in the middle.

Cut your border pieces to fit the angled shed so your herringbone pattern stays true.


OR: how big of a pain in the *** would it be to straighten the shed?

 

[benwah]

I've always been a fan of "drunken paths".

 

[bczygan]

Whenever I need to go from one place to another, especially for earnest errands like getting something from a shed, I want the most direct route possible. If a paved path didn't do that for me, I would cut across the grass and create a path with my feet.

So the solution here is to create an area of pavers in front of the shed, from which a paved path can go directly to the house. So something like this:

Bill

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

A gentle curve would look great. A little extra cutting could result but worth it.

View media item 101286
View media item 107536

 

[bczygan]

Looking at the slope in your plan, a gentle diagonal curve would work best.

Bill

 

[ive]

Let me begin by saying thanks to everybody trying to give me advice. I truly appreciate it.

 

[ive]

3 options than can think of...

Gentle curve. More work.
Straight line with the final course cut at a non90 degree angle.

I think the best option is to probably come straight off the house and then put one direction adjustment somewhere in the middle in order to line up with the shed.
You get to chose the exact spot of the direction change and will have the least awkward cuts.

Gentle curve. Great idea. I think that would hide it best? I’m gonna post a pic of where the pavers are gonna go.

 

[ive]

Run the sidewalk straight but at an angle between the two structures. That way you only need to cut the starter course at either end!

AL

Al, I’m sorry but I don’t understand. Could I beg on your patience to explai. This to me. Thanks!

 

[ive]

put a border around the whole thing and the herringbone in the middle.

Cut your border pieces to fit the angled shed so your herringbone pattern stays true.


OR: how big of a pain in the *** would it be to straighten the shed?

Shed is 10’x20’ with a 4” concrete pad. Has anyone here moved something like this?

 

[ive]

I've always been a fan of "drunken paths".

Looks great!

 

[ive]

Whenever I need to go from one place to another, especially for earnest errands like getting something from a shed, I want the most direct route possible. If a paved path didn't do that for me, I would cut across the grass and create a path with my feet.

So the solution here is to create an area of pavers in front of the shed, from which a paved path can go directly to the house. So something like this:

Bill

Bill, your logic is 100% correct. However there is a pergola between the shed and house. Wife wants pavers there.

 

[ive]

Looking at the slope in your plan, a gentle diagonal curve would work best.

Bill

Yes. Looks that way Bill. No one would notice.

 

[ive]

Here’s a updated drawing. I know it’s not nice, but I’m learning as I go.

 

[ive]

The pink is where my wife wants pavers. Any advice?

 

[RPH]

Patience's, and a strong back.

 

[RandyIA]

Is freestyle an option?

The way to hide a curve (not the best description) is to expand the outer course by a fraction with each brick laid. The inner bricks retain their nominal spacing. Assuming of course that there's enough room between point A and point B to create the desired effect without 2" wide gaps. However, this method would also likely not work since the assumed desired effect is of tightly fitted brick.

Another way to do it is to use broken brick, but I expect that's not the style the house and landscape would favor.

A third option is to use formed concrete with a brick pattern laid into the top with silicone stencils and colored dyes in the concrete. Done by professionals with a lot of experience the effect is nearly impossible to distinguish from real hand set brick patterns.

Nothing worth doing is always easy or inexpensive.

 

[oldwino]

The pink is where my wife wants pavers. Any advice?

What she said

 

[bczygan]

The pink is where my wife wants pavers. Any advice?

The wife wants it.................it's a done deal!!!

Bill

 

[ive]

Patience's, and a strong back.

Hah. So true.

 

[ive]

Is freestyle an option?

The way to hide a curve (not the best description) is to expand the outer course by a fraction with each brick laid. The inner bricks retain their nominal spacing. Assuming of course that there's enough room between point A and point B to create the desired effect without 2" wide gaps. However, this method would also likely not work since the assumed desired effect is of tightly fitted brick.

Another way to do it is to use broken brick, but I expect that's not the style the house and landscape would favor.

A third option is to use formed concrete with a brick pattern laid into the top with silicone stencils and colored dyes in the concrete. Done by professionals with a lot of experience the effect is nearly impossible to distinguish from real hand set brick patterns.

Nothing worth doing is always easy or inexpensive.

Thanks so much. All ideas I’ll look into. Agreed, nothing good is easy.

 

[ive]

Nobody is going to ask how long it took, they will just look and say nice job.

 

[RandyIA]

Nobody is going to ask how long it took, they will just look and say nice job.

Hmmm...I'm one of those that bucks the trends...I'd ask how long it took. I'm also nosy enough to ask how much it cost. Not judging genuinely curious. Some folks can seem to do projects with very little money and make them look like a half million was spent on it. I'm always curious to know. But I'm also known for being blunt and having very few social skills.

 

[bkg]

perhaps an overly simplistic question...

Can you adjust the shed?

 

[ive]

perhaps an overly simplistic question...

Can you adjust the shed?

I’m looking at moving the shed. I’m wondering if digging it out the the gravel past the concrete and try to push it.

Do you guys think I can push it with a tracked bobcat?

 

[RandyIA]

You said it had a concrete floor?

if so, you move it you might end up needing to pump concrete under it to re-level it assuming the slab doesn't crack and self destruct. Slabs can be moved, but when they are carrying perimeter loads it's not a great idea to do so.

 

[K13]

Straight lines rarely look good and rarely stay looking good especially up here when you get massive freeze thaw cycles for large parts of the year.. Curves are much more forgiving and look more natural in landscaping designs. Get a garden hose and lay it out on the ground and move it around until you get a shape you like for the outside edge of the path then mark it.

 

[ive]

You said it had a concrete floor?

if so, you move it you might end up needing to pump concrete under it to re-level it assuming the slab doesn't crack and self destruct. Slabs can be moved, but when they are carrying perimeter loads it's not a great idea to do so.

True. I might end up with a big mess

 

[ive]

Straight lines rarely look good and rarely stay looking good especially up here when you get massive freeze thaw cycles for large parts of the year.. Curves are much more forgiving and look more natural in landscaping designs. Get a garden hose and lay it out on the ground and move it around until you get a shape you like for the outside edge of the path then mark it.

Great idea. Thank you. When I’m done I’ll post pics.

 

[burleyfarm]

I’m looking at moving the shed. I’m wondering if digging it out the the gravel past the concrete and try to push it.

Do you guys think I can push it with a tracked bobcat?

My thoughts.

Straight and square pattern if your going for a modern look. Curved if more traditional.

I moved a 16x24 garage once by myself with a come-a-long, round fence post sections and my pickup truck. Jacked up the garage after I reinforced it with 2x4 bracing. Placed sections of large diameter fence posts under bottom plate. Attached come-a-long to the hitch on my pickup truck and some chain and ratcheted it to it’s new slab location. Moved it about 30 feet then had to spin it 90 degrees to set it up on the new slab. Once it was the on the slab, I installed a row of blocks to raise the walls above grade. Did the move while my wife was at work.

Point of this long story is that yes you can move your shed pretty easily if you give it some thought.


Dave

 

[Justind97]

I have an interlock company. Looking at what you are wanting to do, a good amount of square footage.

Leave the shed. I think you're over thinking it. Square the line of interlock from the house and run a soldier course/border. Start at the house, work your way down the outside then to the shed. Cut the border to run flush along the shed and don't worry about the angle, it won't be noticed.

If you have at least 4' between the houses, rent a Bobcat E10 and S70 and get it done quickly.

Go open a "company" with an interlock supplier. I prefer Techo Bloc. Nicest stones and fairly priced. You should get at minimum 28% off retail.

Interlock starts at $24/sq ft and goes up depending on stone and installer. Any cheaper than that, and they're not as good as they think they are.

 

[Jayman17]

Straight lines rarely look good and rarely stay looking good especially up here when you get massive freeze thaw cycles for large parts of the year.. Curves are much more forgiving and look more natural in landscaping designs. Get a garden hose and lay it out on the ground and move it around until you get a shape you like for the outside edge of the path then mark it.

100% agree with this. Gentle curves look so much better in landscaping than straight lines.

Jay

 

[TailGunner3000]

I agree with the curve idea. I think if you also add some landscaping around the shed, you won't notice any difference in orientation. The pavers will border the landscaping, not the shed (except at the door) and hide any variance.

 

[machsnell]

I have an interlock company. Looking at what you are wanting to do, a good amount of square footage.

Leave the shed. I think you're over thinking it. Square the line of interlock from the house and run a soldier course/border. Start at the house, work your way down the outside then to the shed. Cut the border to run flush along the shed and don't worry about the angle, it won't be noticed.

If you have at least 4' between the houses, rent a Bobcat E10 and S70 and get it done quickly.

Go open a "company" with an interlock supplier. I prefer Techo Bloc. Nicest stones and fairly priced. You should get at minimum 28% off retail.

Interlock starts at $24/sq ft and goes up depending on stone and installer. Any cheaper than that, and they're not as good as they think they are.

What he said

Soldier course hides all and being out of parallel shouldn't even be a worry.

Do your infill with a mixed pattern of pavers



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