Help with Home A/C Unit Troubleshooting

[Larey]

I have a Goodman GSZ130361 unit and the handler is upstairs in the attic, and the condenser is outside in the backyard. (disclaimer we did just recently have a power surge that effected my kids WII U.
So short story I got home today and it was hot in the house, so I knew something was wrong. Fan was on the "on" selection which I never move from auto. Luke warm air barely blowing out but the unit was running. So with previous events occurring I knew to check the outside unit to see if it was running and it was not. Checked all the breakers and they are all good. Open up the side and the circuit board and contactor are available to me access.

If I remember right I have burned up a few ants before in the contactor but am not exactly sure on how to test it, except when I push the middle of it down it turns on the unit and the air gets cold. So I get the circuit board loose and inspect the back and it is discolored at two resistors that are the same in coloring. I remember some of my electronics class from a awhile ago and look up the resistance and they are bad compared to the two next to them with the same coloring.

So I am not real sure on which one to deal with first as I am not real good with schematics. Contactor is 40 bucks and circuit card is about 70. Oh and to add to this we move out in a month to a new home, but this one will be rented out.

Thanks for the help in advance,

Larey

 

[Mike007]

Check the dual run capacitor.

 

[Larey]

Tells me to discharge it thru a 20-30 ohm resistor prior to testing dont have one available at the moment.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

Can you post a picture of the contactor?

 

[Larey]

http://www.amazon.com/Goodman-Amana-Janitrol-Capacitor-CAP050450440RTS/dp/B008I6VBS8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416886609&sr=8-1&keywords=CAP050450440RTS


This is what it looks like, has three sets of plugs on the top, one labeled fan, then one labeled C, the last one says HERM.

SO I just found out that is my run capacitor, not real sure where my start capacitor is at?

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

That's your capacitor,Can you post a picture of the contactor?
The simplest way to check the capacitor with out removing the wires is to look at the top of capacitor under where the wires connect.
The top should be flat under the connectors,if its bulged out then chances are its bad.
depending on your contactor you should be able to test it by pushing it in with an insulated screwdriver,need a picture though.

 

[Larey]

I have tested the contactor with a meter lead by pushing it in, I will take better pictures in the morning, so hopefully that is it...but what about the two resistors?

 

[Rockhead261]

That unit model number looks like a heatpump, correct?

Push in the contactor. Does the unit run? If so, make sure you have 24vac going to the outdoor unit. If you do, replace the board.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

It's not the run cap. You already said that if you manually push the contactor in, the compressor and fan run. The circuit board has burned resistors, it's probably you bad part.

Tommy

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

I have tested the contactor with a meter lead by pushing it in, I will take better pictures in the morning, so hopefully that is it...but what about the two resistors?

So what did it show when you checked it with the meter,Are you getting 24v to the coil?
Are you getting 240v to the contactor,are you getting 240v out the other side of contactor when you push it in?

 

[bazar01]

I think he just used the meter lead to manually engage/push on the contactor contacts.

His unit has a control issue.

 

[acmikee]

so you pushed in the contactor and the compressor ran and the fan ran=cap is good
now check for 24 volts at the Y to C terminal or cycle the fan on at the Tstat=fan cycles you have 24V.
look at the wiring diagram at the condensing unit and look for a low pressure or loss of charge control....connect those wires together if compressor starts you are off on those safeties

 

[Larey]

Acmikee so with y and c terminal I have about 26 v. Now when I jumper my low pressure switch on the board outside it works so I assume I have a leak or low pressure.

 

[Larey]

As you can see I have an oily residue above the warning label.

 

[acmikee]

yes your low on charge or flat. remove the service cap and press in the valve core (just like a tire)if you hear a hiss then you have some refrigerant then you can leak check it. remove the screws to access the coil then soap the area around the oil stain. if no hiss then the unit is flat and you need to call a service tech.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

 

[LS6 Tommy]

yes your low on charge or flat. remove the service cap and press in the valve core (just like a tire)if you hear a hiss then you have some refrigerant then you can leak check it. remove the screws to access the coil then soap the area around the oil stain. if no hiss then the unit is flat and you need to call a service tech.

X2. When the OP said when he manually pushed the compressor contactor in it blew cold air I figured most likely culprit was the burned control board...

Tommy

 

[Larey]

Well the unit was empty, and it ended up being a pin hole at the top of the coil right before the fins. Tech fixed it and serviced for 274.

 

[Larey]

Oh and thanks for the help from all of you that pitched in.