I think I found the issue. I unbolted the intake from the pump to take a look inside and found a little metal mesh screen all gummed up. For interest I removed it and bolted the intake back on. It now takes 3:23 minutes to fill the tank from empty. Using the calculator puts me at 14.88 CFM. I would think that would be the best this thing could do.
Help with Scroll Air Compressor
- Thread starter 51dueller
- Start date
MacMcMacmac
Well-known member
Sounds right on the money. The only thing I'd do to this now is maybe find a beefier fan, or a separate electrically driven one. I am a bit worried that yours won't take full rpm for an extended period of time. It would be a shame to damage that cooler after all your work.
Got the little filter all clean and back in. All these little filters have probably kept this machine alive due to the lack of maintenance from the previous owner. The intake does have a spring loaded flapper valve.
As far as the fan goes, I'm going to see if I can find something better. The issue is the motor shaft is 27mm and not 1 1/16 like I thought. Need to find a fan with a less pitch as it's running at 90 decibels with my old Radio Shack meter. It definitely wasn't this loud with the old cracked fan blade.
Not enough room to fit an electric fan in the inside and they are all 12v needing a voltage reducer. Unless I just maybe modify the blade from one of these as some of them run at 3000 rpm.
When I run the die grinder at full rpm, it holds steady at 100 psi. I let it run like this for 5 min straight and found that the oil bypass works. The compressor hit 115'C and all of a sudden the temp quickly dropped to 90'C. When I previously took the valve apart to clean it, the spring holds the valve down and the thermostat pushes it up to bypass. So it just floods the pump with oil when it gets too hot. Using an infrared gun the back of the scroll pump it stays in the 55-60'C range and the oil separator tank gets up to 90'C by the inlet hose. Not sure what the actual average oil temp is as I can touch the copper and nylon lines without any discomfort.
Kind of glad I had the oil cooler cleaned as it seems to run warmer than I thought it would. The owners manual says normal operation exhaust temperature is 70-100'C. No mention what the shutdown temperature was though, just mentions check oil level and have adequate ventilation. Looking online it seems like oil rotary screw exhaust temperatures are in the 100-120'C range. I'm going to keep a watch on the temperature it does run.
It's not going to be seeing any heavy use for a long time till the house renovations are done. I plan on getting a DA sander for my woodworking and bodywork for my 1951 Mercury truck.
As far as the fan goes, I'm going to see if I can find something better. The issue is the motor shaft is 27mm and not 1 1/16 like I thought. Need to find a fan with a less pitch as it's running at 90 decibels with my old Radio Shack meter. It definitely wasn't this loud with the old cracked fan blade.
Not enough room to fit an electric fan in the inside and they are all 12v needing a voltage reducer. Unless I just maybe modify the blade from one of these as some of them run at 3000 rpm.
When I run the die grinder at full rpm, it holds steady at 100 psi. I let it run like this for 5 min straight and found that the oil bypass works. The compressor hit 115'C and all of a sudden the temp quickly dropped to 90'C. When I previously took the valve apart to clean it, the spring holds the valve down and the thermostat pushes it up to bypass. So it just floods the pump with oil when it gets too hot. Using an infrared gun the back of the scroll pump it stays in the 55-60'C range and the oil separator tank gets up to 90'C by the inlet hose. Not sure what the actual average oil temp is as I can touch the copper and nylon lines without any discomfort.
Kind of glad I had the oil cooler cleaned as it seems to run warmer than I thought it would. The owners manual says normal operation exhaust temperature is 70-100'C. No mention what the shutdown temperature was though, just mentions check oil level and have adequate ventilation. Looking online it seems like oil rotary screw exhaust temperatures are in the 100-120'C range. I'm going to keep a watch on the temperature it does run.
It's not going to be seeing any heavy use for a long time till the house renovations are done. I plan on getting a DA sander for my woodworking and bodywork for my 1951 Mercury truck.
MacMcMacmac
Well-known member
We would shoot for a running temperature of about 180F.
220F is generally where we would set the high temperature shutoff switches.
220F is generally where we would set the high temperature shutoff switches.
MacMcMacmac
Well-known member
Maybe you could inquire about that Qwick Signs label and pick their brains about where they bought it.
For that price, I think buying is a no-brainer. Extra air storage, or a platform for a piston compressor at worst. Sell off bits you don't need. Money maker!
For that price, I think buying is a no-brainer. Extra air storage, or a platform for a piston compressor at worst. Sell off bits you don't need. Money maker!
Well being a sucker I bought it. I like how the ad just said it was dented during transport and it works great. Good thing I just wanted it for parts as there is no way this thing could have ran. It is all the original parts but it is beat up. The pressure switch was snapped off, cooling fan destroyed, oil cool fins are damaged, the direct drive coupler damper is shredded and power switch is missing.
I think it has seen less use than mine as the oil is much cleaner and oil separator filter isn't rusty. I mostly wanted it for the motor and pump as I'll never find those. I'll try selling the tank to get some money back.
I got a little more information where these things came from. It was purchased in Edmonton Alberta but I didn't get the business name. It is a place that sold shop equipment as he also bought a 75 ton shop press there.
Look at the logo, it has the same "atom orbit" as my compressor. Somewhat closer but still so far away.
I think it has seen less use than mine as the oil is much cleaner and oil separator filter isn't rusty. I mostly wanted it for the motor and pump as I'll never find those. I'll try selling the tank to get some money back.
I got a little more information where these things came from. It was purchased in Edmonton Alberta but I didn't get the business name. It is a place that sold shop equipment as he also bought a 75 ton shop press there.
Look at the logo, it has the same "atom orbit" as my compressor. Somewhat closer but still so far away.
Gee, for my first post ever on this site, I have to bring this back from the dead. I am looking at one of these things that has the wiring ripped apart, but turns freely. Then, much to my surprise and delight, the OP is somewhere near me!!!Well being a sucker I bought it. I like how the ad just said it was dented during transport and it works great. Good thing I just wanted it for parts as there is no way this thing could have ran. It is all the original parts but it is beat up. The pressure switch was snapped off, cooling fan destroyed, oil cool fins are damaged, the direct drive coupler damper is shredded and power switch is missing.
I think it has seen less use than mine as the oil is much cleaner and oil separator filter isn't rusty. I mostly wanted it for the motor and pump as I'll never find those. I'll try selling the tank to get some money back.
I got a little more information where these things came from. It was purchased in Edmonton Alberta but I didn't get the business name. It is a place that sold shop equipment as he also bought a 75 ton shop press there.
Look at the logo, it has the same "atom orbit" as my compressor. Somewhat closer but still so far away.
Will PM him and see how this goes. Yes, I found this site doing a search for Newman 55S25 information.