Here it is! Worlds most underwhelming shop!

[steed]

welp.
Yesterday, after 5 years in my industrial building in the middle of Dallas, I closed on my piece of country livin' out in Hunt County.
3 acres, outside city limits, and 2200 sq ft house (the converted office in the old building is about 700 ft).

Here's the old building.


Out with the old, in with the slightly LESS old; here's the new one-





I've got a laundry list of things I would LIKE TO do and a vague idea of how to accomplish them... but for posterity sake... and I joined this forum for a reason...
What would YOU do?
Im in north Texas, so I'd like climate control. I like order and cleanliness. I mostly just work on my own stuff with the occasional contract fabrication project.

 

[mike93lx]

I'd start with insulation and something for the floor (clean and seal?) before it's full of ****

 

[The Bean]

^^ Exactly my thoughts. Maybe think about stronger lateral wind bracing in the walls. And lighting!
Is the bldg metal frame? It looks suspiciously like wood.

 

[loganb]

#1 to the above

The walls, ceiling and floor will never be easier to access then they are now. So any insulation, ceiling paneling you may want to install, paint on the walls or coating on the floor ..now is the time to do it.

Personally if it was me.....I'd be leaning towards insulating that ceiling to start. Spray foam, sheet or metal liner panel on the bottom of the trusses then Blowing R30 in on top of it. If the budget allows, couple inches of spray foam on the entire building shell should dramatically improve the year round comfort, especially if paired with a mini split for AC. Batt insulation can work with metal buildings as well, there are often special batt widths to make it faster, a metal building company or insulation outfit can likely price that for you

Once shell is done....wall coverings would be my next step. Assuming it's got fresh insulation on the walls, i would want to cover the bottom 8 or 10' with something to allow easy hanging of tools, protect the insulation etc. My preference is plywood, could be painted or left natural. OSB can be done but it ***** up paint hard so if you plan to paint you'll need to plan several heavy coats to get moderate coverage so the money saved on OSB gets spent on paint and time to paint. Osb under drywall can give a cleaner look and allow the benefits of wood under for easier attachment down the road. Metal panel could be used in hot work areas, water resistant FRP if you have a dedicated wash area

Finally floor....at minimum it would be good wash. From there choice of a clear, a paint or poly/epoxy type coating is up to personal preference and budget. At a minimum I would want a clear coat or sealer if possible to make it easier to clean and resist dusting

 

[pcmeiners]

To start I would get hold of a 4000psi pressure washer, good cleaning solvent, wash/rinse the walls/ceiling/floor; if you go foam the clean metal surfaces will allow adherence.

Run a 200 amp service, while running, running add a water and CAT line for Internet line if you run in ground.

Mini-splits, you do not give the square foot, but likely (2) single zone units ( for efficiency), high efficiency due to the prolonged extreme heat. Cheap mini-splits are not that efficient. DIY, even if you have to buy all needed tools.

Keep the fan, but get a smaller motor and gear down, since you may have a ceiling only a small air exchange is needed in the summer above the insulated ceiling.

Agree coat the floor with something once all the work is done to keep the dust down, epoxy is a lot of work, exterior deck paint is the easiest and repairable.

I see power lines close by. Place a dozen mattress springs above the ceiling connected together to create a transformer so you can steal power from your local electric utility.

Rent a Penske truck with a lift for the tool/machinery move.

Be careful all member giving advice are sworn to an oath to spend other member's money, ignoring any budget you may have.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Before insulation or any finishing of the interior make sure the roof is in good shape and doesn't leak, same with the windows and doors, check around the bottom of the walls for cracks or gaps that can let critters in. If it's wood construction find and fix any rot or water damage.

 

[RoninB4]

-After the previously noted floor and insulation I'd want to lay out a floor plan for where things will locate. The OP @steed also mentioned occasional fabrication projects so a flow plan should be considered. The machinery used, raw materials, welding area, paint, final assembly, etc. all need to have designated areas for isolation or staging. Moving shop "furniture" around isn't a lot of fun, wastes time, and can be a PITA if you're working on top of yourself. Power and lighting can also be planned at the same time.

 

[mike93lx]

To add, that shop is a hell of a lot more whelming than mine! Enjoy it!

What does it have for electrical service?

 

[steed]

Its all metal tube and channel construction; not the heaviest of duty- but its standing on its own.
It has 100 AMP service underground from the house.

Ive got a bud that does Epoxy- that's on the list. Im having him do the shop and the garage.

Id LOVE to have a celling with insulation, the last shop had none so it was pointless to heat or cool with no upper insulation and 24" vents up top. Trying to figure out how I can span the rafters with some sort of strapping for steel ceiling; since it will hold a little bit of insulation.

Upon more inspection- seems like it's pretty good and dry other than a 2" hole the previous owner drilled in the back for Airlines. I will be building a little two wall "shed" for my compressor out back on the pad that's there.

honestly, this is the coolest part- its like imagining a lego kit when youre a kid but tens of thousands of dollars. HAH!

 

[Metal-Marc]

I'd start with insulation and something for the floor (clean and seal?) before it's full of ****

This.

Also, if you don't need the full height for the whole garage, i'd build some kind of mezzanine.

 

[pcmeiners]

honestly, this is the coolest part- its like imagining a lego kit when youre a kid but tens of thousands of dollars. HAH!

For me it would be an Erector set, to date myself. Notice the center of the garage has an area for a lift, nice

 

[jbailey927]

I would second spending some time to think about layout, but also design in a way that would survive a layout change.

Think you are going to put a large machine against a wall and only need 1 outlet in that area? My advice would be dont design your shop for that single use. Run outlets every 4 feet all the way around and 220 outlets every 20 feet - or whatever fits your needs and you can re-arange as needed. But you need to know you want that large machine there to ensure you can fit everything. This same principle goes for lighting, etc...

You mention Air and Power, do you have water out there also?

 

[steed]

No water- it would be nice to have a sink to wash solvent off and wash hands- which I do 6 million times a day.

I love the mezzanine idea; I was thinking this too- possibly 8-12 feet off the back wall with parts storage up top and stationary machines beneath. It would also help to have more lighting closer to me... oh no, too many options, not enough (time, money, hours).

 

[FuelFC]

Welcome to the county. Nice slate/canvas to work with.

Do keep security in mind as we have some 'self helpers' around. Screen and mesh for the little rodents.

Need anything holler! Will ponder more on building thoughts.

 

[strength_and_power]

Zach at NTX Foamworkx services that area and does great work at super reasonable rates with excellent communication.

John at Guardian Garage doors is in that area, top notch service.

I did 8’ of metal W panel on the walls with an OSB backer from 4-8’.

Lots of outlets, lots of lights.

Pallet racking can be had pretty cheap but don’t fall into the trap of storing everything, it’s a shop.

Congrats on the new digs

 

[pcmeiners]

Trying to figure out how I can span the rafters with some sort of strapping for steel ceiling; since it will hold a little bit of insulation

Steel studs placed 16"-24" on center perpendicular across the truss beams. Light weight and will hold anything material you use for the ceiling .

As another poster mentioned to add stiffener support (triangulation), global warming is here to stay with worse/stronger hurricanes to come. Reinforce a couple trusses would help, steel cables would be the easiest/cheapest to reinforce the side and back wall.

 

[kwb]

Plan for flexibility. Time has a funny way of shifting priorities. Wheels on things are good but watch out for losing rigidity with equipment.

With a clean slate like that - I would make it clean, top to bottom. Pressure wash every inch of the place. You will want scaffolding with wheels or a manlift.
If you are going to spray foam - do it after the electrical.
Put outlets at least every 4', 4' off the floor. Add 240V outlets on each wall. I wish I had done Quads at times but with another plug <4' away it isn't a big enough deal to rework any of them.
100A isn't a lot for a production space but for a one man shop you will have a hard time running out of power.
Run Air all around the shop. I am old school and always recommend black iron. Use 10' sticks and T's at every joint. Put a plug in the T where you aren't going to put a water trap. When you want to move something, just pull the plug out and you have another tap point. Put a couple of connections on the outside of the shop. It is really nice to not need 150' of hoses just to get to a flat tire around the side or back of the building. Compressor 100% needs to live outdoors under a cover.
I have a water tap outside on my shop, only a few times have I really wanted a sink.
More light is always better. Aging happens, be glad you did the hard work of putting in a lot of light as your younger self.
Get a low temperature thermostat. Being able to prevent a freeze inside by keeping it at 35-40f in a cold snap is a great thing.
Mezz if you can swing it now is nice but not too hard to add later either. Just don't put any posts that aren't against the exterior wall.

 

[My Old Tools]

My condolences on living in Hunt County. I spent 40 years there. Much happier down here in Smith County now (Tyler area) with real trees and no black dirt.

 

[Uncle murph]

welp.
Yesterday, after 5 years in my industrial building in the middle of Dallas, I closed on my piece of country livin' out in Hunt County.
3 acres, outside city limits, and 2200 sq ft house (the converted office in the old building is about 700 ft).

Here's the old building.


Out with the old, in with the slightly LESS old; here's the new one-





I've got a laundry list of things I would LIKE TO do and a vague idea of how to accomplish them... but for posterity sake... and I joined this forum for a reason...
What would YOU do?
Im in north Texas, so I'd like climate control. I like order and cleanliness. I mostly just work on my own stuff with the occasional contract fabrication project.

Underwhelming?Seems like a pretty nice place to me.A lot of guys on here work on dirt floors or their driveway.

 

[pcmeiners]

If you are going to spray foam - do it after the electrical.

I would do it before the electric wire runs specifying to leave the foam indented about half the stud depth for a 2 ft high area starting at an approximate height of 30" around the entire garage. The space could also be used to run air lines, CAT wire, pull cords (future wire runs), possible water lines.

My condolences to anyone living in the Texas heat. Personally would not survive it.

 

[steed]

Welcome to the county. Nice slate/canvas to work with.

Do keep security in mind as we have some 'self helpers' around. Screen and mesh for the little rodents.

Need anything holler! Will ponder more on building thoughts.

Going back through these last few responses, I didn't realize there were so many LOCALS! Hell yeah! Im from out of state and Ive been non-stop working for the last 5-8 years so no time to make many social connections, this is great to know! Im originally from Arkansas where I seemed to know EVERYONE!

I am doubling my cameras that I have currently and probably adding more insofar as security is involved with the shop and the house. Also seems like most of the neighbors are solid, hard working folk- not the kind to take what aint theirs.

I don't particularly like the idea of spray foam (for no apparent reason) just seems like maybe rigid is the way to go for walls, and figure out plenty for the ceiling. The house has been 65 inside the last few days that we've been moving stuff in and the heat hasn't turned on and its been nearing the freeze mark the last few nights- its got a ton of insulation up top!

 

[qdvuu]

I like reducing recurring costs, in particular energy. So in addition to the suggestions of insulation and HVAC, I like the ability to have flow-through ventilation so use of the HVAC systems can be reduced (highly experienced in this from living in S. FL.). So enough windows on all sides to give good amounts of flow.

Related to this is security. Secure windows, window blinds/shades to keep prying eyes out, etc.

Also, instead of building in furnishings and equipment, have as many things as possible on wheels (workbenches, cabinets, tables, racks, etc.). This way you can change your layout as your needs change.

 

[mike93lx]

Going back through these last few responses, I didn't realize there were so many LOCALS! Hell yeah! Im from out of state and Ive been non-stop working for the last 5-8 years so no time to make many social connections, this is great to know! Im originally from Arkansas where I seemed to know EVERYONE!

I am doubling my cameras that I have currently and probably adding more insofar as security is involved with the shop and the house. Also seems like most of the neighbors are solid, hard working folk- not the kind to take what aint theirs.

I don't particularly like the idea of spray foam (for no apparent reason) just seems like maybe rigid is the way to go for walls, and figure out plenty for the ceiling. The house has been 65 inside the last few days that we've been moving stuff in and the heat hasn't turned on and its been nearing the freeze mark the last few nights- its got a ton of insulation up top!

The challenge with rigid is all the little gaps, plus spray foam adds strength by gluing the whole structure together.

 

[LOW1]

Now is the time to rough in the plumbing for the bathroom

 

[theoldwizard1]

I'd start with insulation ...

Absolutely !

I would do 2" of spray foam on the ceiling and walls. Then add AT LEAST 6" additional insulation on the ceiling !

 

[Smilodon]

I'm still a little mystified how you get the walls so dirty so high up!

Seriously, looks like you'll be in a better place once you get it all done. Not too bad to start off with, not to mention location!

 

[kwb]

I like reducing recurring costs, in particular energy. So in addition to the suggestions of insulation and HVAC, I like the ability to have flow-through ventilation so use of the HVAC systems can be reduced (highly experienced in this from living in S. FL.). So enough windows on all sides to give good amounts of flow.

You have to look at that pretty carefully - things will only get more expensive with time so there is that going for you on ROI of insulation.

If you are realistically in the shop 1-2 days a week and not leaving the space conditioned all the time you will have a hard time justifying insulating. The costs are in heating or cooling the space, insulation is only going to slow loosing the heat or cool that you put in. Whole other story if you are working as your vocation every day.

In 20yrs of having an uninsulated space and a 200K unit heater I am pretty sure I am still ahead in the game just paying the higher gas bill when I heat it. Someday I might finish the undersides of the trusses which would help heat things up faster but I would be doing that more for lighting benefits than anything else.

 

[The Bean]

As an architect, I saw how spray-foam insulation popularity took off over the last few decades. But, recently, I have heard stories of bad spray-foam jobs where open-cell insulation was applied (it's cheaper), and then covered with closed-cell insulation (the stuff you want). This is a bad situation, as the open-cell stuff deteriorates and gives off poisonous gases. Be careful if using a contractor for this. You never know until it's too late.

 

[Swanny1953]

Welcome to the area (generally). I’m in Lucas, but drive though Hint Co regularly headed to our place in Mt. Vernon. Looks like you have a great starting point - enjoy the journey!

 

[tomshep]

Ultimately, I'd want to foam ceiling and walls. With that said clean top to bottom and run all electric, air and plumbing you may need. Keep in mind good lighting as stated. I have water outside my shop but I'm further south than you where freezing isn't an issue. My compressor is in the far corner of my shop. It isn't too bad with noise and I like the security and being out of the elements. I've got a 50' hose that reaches anywhere in the shop. After foaming I'd do the lower 4' in metal of some sort. Even left over corrugated metal--gives it some patina. Above that choose your siding or paint the foam. I'm not a real big fan of a sealed floor. I drag jacks around, stands, equipment and I've seen flooring peel or lift. I don't want to deal with it.

Start watching craig's list, marketplace, etc. for pallet racks. I love mine. Have fun!

Tom

 

[BobnCO]

In 20yrs of having an uninsulated space and a 200K unit heater I am pretty sure I am still ahead in the game just paying the higher gas bill when I heat it.

I think for these “Texans” no (or poor) insulation makes the shop unusable for giant swaths of the year… you PNWer’s are just keeping the constant rain out!!

 

[kwb]

Fair enough - Cooling has never been on my mind for the shop. Our hottest days are still semi-workable inside in the shade.

 

[steed]

If you’re in a shop in August in north Texas, it’s as debilitating as being outside in Minnesota in janurary!

 

[steed]

They got started on the floor this week, weather didn’t cooperate, so cleaning up, another coat and then top coat this weekend.
MAN! I didn’t expect flooring would be so pricy. But it’ll be worth it in the long run.

 

[M.Brane]

Looks like a pool!

 

[Bronson]

When I built my 30x40Mx12 Mueller in the Texas Panhandle, I spray foamed, best investment I ever made.
I am retired ,but, I use my shop 7 days a week, and I keep it 70F out there for about $50 a month. Natural gas unit heater and large swamp cooler for the summer heat.
The spray foam will also stiffen the structure.
Your floor already looks great!

 

[sni-per]

Congrats on the purchase!!! Insulation and a mini-split, maybe epoxy the floor, and then make it your own!! It all takes time!

 

[MelvinManiac]

Looking good.

Yea, I would spray foam that beeyotch if it were me.. Adds strength, etc...

 

[05snopro440]

I'm in a much different climate than you, but up here in Alberta I am on 3.5 acres and have been there for 5 years.

My 1,200 sq-ft garage/shop isn't quite what you have, but a few of the things I've learned:

1. Having natural light makes me want to spend more time in the garage. Large windows, even if high up for security purposes, are awesome.
2. A well-lit shop is much easier to work in. I have 18 LED fixtures in 1200 sq-ft (12ft ceilings) and I am adding more.
3. You'll always need electrical, have a bunch of plugs including 220 in multiple locations for welders/plasma cutters, etc.
4. I wish I had the option to have my air compressor out of the shop. Your compressor shack is a great idea.
5. Insulation, drywall/sheeting, and climate control for your worst season is a must. Here in Alberta, that means a heat source of some kind.
6. In your garage, I'd consider putting a door on the back wall or near the back on one of the side walls, to allow access to that area without having to empty out the whole place.
7. Plan to use the wall height for storage. That would mean making sure you have sufficient studs before insulating and closing in the walls. I'm installing metal shelves from Newage Products in mine now to make use of the height and have it be aesthetically pleasing (not something the previous owner agreed with). https://newageproducts.com/ca/collections/shelving-off-the-floor-storage/?coll_id=0ZGOG000000044A4AQ
8. Get the interior finishing done before you move in, otherwise you'll never feel like doing it.

 

[duneslider]

What's your intended use of the space? Is this just a hobby garage? Run a business, rebuild cars, build cabinets, play cards, worship BMW's?