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f575gtc

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17CFM @ 175PSI

I do have some questions though, this thing has unloaders on the head and what seems like another unloader on the front, where do these things hook up to?

I already have an unloader on the check valve on the tank.

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Also this thing has relief valves on each "cooler" one on each side, what is the reason for relief valves on the pump itself?
 
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zkling

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Check the manual for a plumbing diagram, but the speed actuated unloader (cone shaped object on crank case) gets connected to unloader valves on the head. It allows the pump to spool up to speed without extra load of compressing the air. Once the pump gets up to speed the unloaders close and air gets compressed and diverted into the tank. The pop off valves are for extra safety in case something gets blocked between the stages.

It may also require a line between the centrifugal unloader and the tank to sense tank pressure. This is where you will need to check your manual for a diagram and the internal workings of that particular pump. I'm most familiar with quincy and that is how they work, but they are a pressure lubed pump.

What make is the pump?
 
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f575gtc

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From my understanding, the top unloader and front unloader is for continuous operation mode, which I do not want to run the pump in.

Currently my setup has a 1/8th fitting off the check valve that leads to the pressure switch, and when the pressure switch turns off, it unloads the pump. Is this all I need with this pump?

Do I NEED to connected those two fittings somewhere if I will not be running continuous mode? If I don't do I need to cap them or can I just let them vent when the pump turns off?

Sorry for all the questions, I never dove into 2 stage pumps before.

Edit: zkling didn't see your post until after I posted mine, I don't know who makes the pump, it has Compressor World stamped on it, seems to be a copy of an Eaton, but it was $375 shipped and has a 1 year warranty on it, so only time will tell.
 
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zkling

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f575gtc said:
From my understanding, the top unloader and front unloader is for continuous operation mode, which I do not want to run the pump in.

Currently my setup has a 1/8th fitting off the check valve that leads to the pressure switch, and when the pressure switch turns off, it unloads the pump. Is this all I need with this pump?

Do I NEED to connected those two fittings somewhere if I will not be running continuous mode? If I don't do I need to cap them or can I just let them vent when the pump turns off?

Sorry for all the questions, I never dove into 2 stage pumps before.
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I don't think so. The unloaders allow the pump to start without putting extra load on the motor. And since you have a low torque motor you are really going to want to use them. There are different control circuits (pneumatic) for different operating duty cycles, such as continuous run, but... This is where you are going to want to check your specific manual.

Also there is no top and front unloader. The way it works is once the pump gets up to speed, the centrifugal unloader (cone shape) on the crank causes the actual unloader valves (cylinder head) to close. They work as a system, not one or the other.

What I find a bit odd, is to why they didn't do a common plumbing setup from the factory. Did they include a pre bent tube that was removed for shipping?
 
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f575gtc

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No, but I have a ton of 1/4 tubing I can connect it if that is all I need.

So all I have to do is something like this?

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I am trying to get more info from them, it is a 730rpm pump with a 17 inch flywheel so I am going to need a 3.5 inch pulley for my motor.
 
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zkling

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Yes, it needs to go to the open spot on the T in the head. But again I would highly recommend you check the manual to make sure you have the optimum configuration for your setup.
 
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f575gtc

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60 gallon tank for now.

My issue is I only do this for a hobby, when I have a project car I will use the air compressor a good amount, but in between it could also sit for a few months, so I can't push myself to buy a $1500+ 2 stage 80 gallon, plus I am limited with space.

All together between the $200 air compressor I bought on craigslist, the magnetic starter, and this pump I am out about $600, I couldn't find anything local with these specs for that price.
 
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f575gtc

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Question, I need to order a new pulley for my motor, it is a 184T Frame, do all 184T motors have 1 1/8th inch shafts? I can't get to the shaft right now with the fan guard and everything in place.

I did attempt to measure it, and it seems to be just around 1 inch, but I couldn't get an exact measurement.
 
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C96

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It looks to be a Saylor Beall clone. Eaton and Sanborn along with many others have also copied the SB pump. Don’t believe their anywhere close to the same quality, but they sure look alike. Saylor Beall is 100% made in the USA, you can bet the others are not!
 
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ttpete

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f575gtc

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C96 said:
It looks to be a Saylor Beall clone. Eaton and Sanborn along with many others have also copied the SB pump. Don’t believe their anywhere close to the same quality, but they sure look alike. Saylor Beall is 100% made in the USA, you can bet the others are not!
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Well it is a China built pump, but it has some reviews on their site and it seems like they are all very positive, and they say it is a very well built pump. Only one person gave it one star because the person burnt out the pump running on a 150 gallon tank in a shop 10 hrs a day for 3 years. I should get 10-15 years out of this pump with my level of use.
 
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f575gtc

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So now on to the oil I need for this pump.

it was shipped dry, the tag on the pump recommends Mobile Rarus 427.


It also states to drain the oil out after the first 10 hrs and replace the oil. Will a gallon of oil be enough to do the initial fill and then the first oil change?

I never seen a pump take more than a quart but this thing is massive.
 
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ttpete

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Now that you have an unloader system, you can install an automatic tank drain valve. It tees into the unloader line and operates when the compressor stops and there's pressure on the unloaders. It can be plumbed to a drain or just out the wall.
 
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highcarbon

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use a quality straight 30 weight non detergent oil, fill it to the red line midway on the sight glass on the crankcase. Overfilling is bad because some compressors have a slinger ring type lubrication system. My opinion is that it is a Sayllor Beal copy. And it will probably hold a lot less oil than you would think.
 
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f575gtc

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Yea I found a gallon of the Mobile Rarus 427 on ebay for $20 shipped, crazy cheap. Ill just go with the oil it recommends, and a gallon should last me for the life of the pump.
 
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highcarbon

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Sorry, I didn't see that the pump came with a recommended oil type. By all means the recommended oil is what should be used. I need to read more and offer my opinion less, I suppose.
 
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f575gtc

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I finally got this thing hooked up!

Took me two days between hydro testing the tank, and multiple trips to the store for the proper belt size, but its alive!

I went from an almost 7 min fill time to 125psi with my old pump to a sub 4 min 0-150psi fill.

This thing really shines above 100PSI, the needle on the gauge never loses steam until the pump shuts of.

There are a few things I don't like, this pump has a much deeper popping sound as it pumps and sounds louder than my old pump., I think a Solberg filter is in my future.

Also because I was only able to find a single 65 inch 5/8th belt in stock nearby, I am currently only running with 1 belt.
 
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