HF blast cabinet

[gregs]

I have a couple of specific questions about some of the mods done to the HF floor blast cabinet. I have read thru the sticky at the top and wasnt sure if I should start a new thread or add to the existing. If this needs moved, delete it and I can post there.

First question is regarding the added air baffle and the difference in using the left side or back as the suction port. I have a baffle for the left side that is almost as long as the one in the back. I see some people attaching them angled towards the front and some straight down. It would be easier to use the left side as my suction port plus allow the cabinet to sit closer to the wall. I understand you are trying to create a draw for the dust to improve vision in the cabinet. Would there be much difference using the left side with the baffle? Angled towards the front or straight down from anybody that has done it?

Second question is regarding the glass. My unit is the older welded together cabinet. It has a piece of plexi on the outside followed by a piece of glass that has the tearoff protector. I plan on making the wire screen frame to make the glass last longer. Whats the purpose of the plexi on the outside? For the guys that just replace the glass when its fogged, are you adding a second piece of glass in front of the original? Or just replacing the one piece when its fogged?

Thanks

 

[GeoBruin]

If I understand your question, yes, placing the baffle over the left side port angled toward the front creates a good cross flow from the intake port which is on the right in the back. That's how I have mine.

As for the glass, the piece on the outside is tempered glass. It's kind of "safety glass" so if something breaks it, it shatters into a bunch of little fragments instead of sharp shards (kind of like a car windshield) but it's more expensive to replace if broken. The piece on the inside is just cheap single pane glass. Even if you use the tear sheets, the thought is that eventually you'll smash it with a part and will have to replace it.

I have the tacoma quick change kit and I buy sheets of cheap glass from home depot for a few bucks. I cut them in half and they give me two replacement panes each. It's a pretty economical system and much better than the sheets in my opinion. You just take the inner sheet out and throw it away, replacing it with the new one. The outer sheet of tempered glass just always stays on top.

 

[gregs]

Thanks for the reply. When you say "intake port on the back" is that where the air is coming in and your vac is attached to the left side drawing it out? Thats what I am trying to clarify.

My cabinet has a piece of plexiglass on the outside and then the glass on the inside with the disposable sheet on it. Was wondering what the purpose of the outer plexiglass is? Is it some kind of safety piece? Is there anyway to tell if the glass is tempered?

I bought the cabinet used, but it was new in the boxes never assembled.

 

[csp]

The plexiglass comes with the blaster and is supposed to be the sacrificial piece on the inside, per the instructions.

Mine went straight to the dumpster and single pane glass from Lowes took its place.

 

[gregs]

I just checked the current manual online as well as the older one I had. They call it the "glass cover" and it is on the outside like mine was assembled. Guessing it must be a safety in case the glass gets broken on the inside while blasting. And a protector of sorts to help save the glass in case something gets dropped on it from the outside.

 

[RegalX]

Which direction the air flows through the cabinet probably does not matter much. I made a baffle the other day for my new cabinet and it faces rearward, I can always move it if needed. I also capped the top of the stock baffle on the back. My thought was to keep the draw down by the blasting, but maybe it'll pick up too much media? Perhaps I should flip it so it draws from the top left to the bottom right?




For the glass I used the stock piece on the outside and a piece of double strength 1/8'' for the inside. Two pieces cost me $16 at the local glass shop.

 

[brownbagg]

dont know about yall but my hf blast leak like a sieve, dust was coming out of all the joints

 

[RegalX]

dont know about yall but my hf blast leak like a sieve, dust was coming out of all the joints

if there is enough negative pressure in the cabinet it shouldn't leak.

 

[gregs]

Which direction the air flows through the cabinet probably does not matter much. I made a baffle the other day for my new cabinet and it faces rearward, I can always move it if needed. I also capped the top of the stock baffle on the back. My thought was to keep the draw down by the blasting, but maybe it'll pick up too much media? Perhaps I should flip it so it draws from the top left to the bottom right?




For the glass I used the stock piece on the outside and a piece of double strength 1/8'' for the inside. Two pieces cost me $16 at the local glass shop.

That was kinda my thought regarding the way the air/dust would flow. Shouldn't make a difference flowing left to right or right to left. Was hoping to find someone that had some proof that one way or the other worked better or worse.

My cabinet is the older model and has the top of the factory baffle already capped and is mostly welded together. Same plan on getting some sacrificial pieces of glass cut.

Your lights look really good. I just got some similar ones in today. My cabinet has the separate light box on top and I am going to put 1 or 2 of those lights in it and then may add another above the gloves like you did.

 

[Bockscar]

If I understand your question, yes, placing the baffle over the left side port angled toward the front creates a good cross flow from the intake port which is on the right in the back. That's how I have mine.

As for the glass, the piece on the outside is tempered glass. It's kind of "safety glass" so if something breaks it, it shatters into a bunch of little fragments instead of sharp shards (kind of like a car windshield) but it's more expensive to replace if broken. The piece on the inside is just cheap single pane glass. Even if you use the tear sheets, the thought is that eventually you'll smash it with a part and will have to replace it.

I have the tacoma quick change kit and I buy sheets of cheap glass from home depot for a few bucks. I cut them in half and they give me two replacement panes each. It's a pretty economical system and much better than the sheets in my opinion. You just take the inner sheet out and throw it away, replacing it with the new one. The outer sheet of tempered glass just always stays on top.

A cars windshield is not tempered....all of the side glass and back glass are....the windshield has a piece of vinyl in between two pieces of glass

 

[GeoBruin]

A cars windshield is not tempered....all of the side glass and back glass are....the windshield has a piece of vinyl in between two pieces of glass

Thank you for clarifying. And I will clarify that both laminated safety glass and tempered glass are used for blast cabinets.

14

BLAST CABINET WINDOW 14" x 26", LAMINATED SAFETY GLASS. FOR BLAST CABINETS MANUFACTURED FROM 2021 - PRESENT

store.titanabrasive.com

Skat Blast® Standard 12" x 24" Tempered Glass Cabinet Lens

Fits Model 730, 731, 780, SC-32, SC-32V, SC-35V, SC-45V, SC-28, SC-28V, 850, 850-T, SC-34, 930, 935, 950, 951, 952, SC-40, SC-46, SC-58, 960, and 960-T Skat Blast® Cabinets. Cabinet Lens is 3/16" thick tempered glass. Includes acrylic outer lens protector (.040 thick) and one inner lens...

www.tptools.com

 

[RegalX]

That was kinda my thought regarding the way the air/dust would flow. Shouldn't make a difference flowing left to right or right to left. Was hoping to find someone that had some proof that one way or the other worked better or worse.

After using my cabinet for the first time last night I blasted a motorcycle tank and it worked really well but I think I am going to point the baffle towards the front and add a little door that pivots over the intake so I can adjust the flow

Your lights look really good. I just got some similar ones in today. My cabinet has the separate light box on top and I am going to put 1 or 2 of those lights in it and then may add another above the gloves like you did.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074R7S5FC/?tag=atomicindus08-20

They are impressively bright for the price.

 

[gregs]

After using my cabinet for the first time last night I blasted a motorcycle tank and it worked really well but I think I am going to point the baffle towards the front and add a little door that pivots over the intake so I can adjust the flow

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074R7S5FC/?tag=atomicindus08-20

They are impressively bright for the price.

Thanks for the update on baffle placement. I guess I will angle it towards the front.

I got some of the same style lights except they are 20w 5000k.

 

[gregs]

New question.

I am planning on building a movable base for it. Current plan is using 2x4 material to make a frame for the legs to sit on with casters on the bottom. Typical of what I've seen so far. My question for the people that have done this, have you had an issue with not having a toe kick area in front? Seems like you would be close up to the cabinet and may be uncomfortable having to lean forward because your foot cant move in.

 

[Yankeefarmer]

I was more concerned about fitting and lifting a drywall bucket when I changed media. I welded up a frame of very light angle, keeping in mind that the frame didn’t need to carry the weight of the cabinet; it just needed to stabilize the legs when rolling.

 

[GeoBruin]

I was more concerned about fitting and lifting a drywall bucket when I changed media. I welded up a frame of very light angle, keeping in mind that the frame didn’t need to carry the weight of the cabinet; it just needed to stabilize the legs when rolling.

Great idea. Solves both problems.

 

[gregs]

Some more to think about and plan for. I'm going to use some 8" wheels on one end and casters on the other (sorta like a grille). I want to be able to roll it out side on my rough unpaved apron when changing the media to try and keep the dust out of the shop. Thanks for the idea.

 

[TriumphFan]

Putting the unit on rollers also makes it more comfortable for blasting. Before I had to crouch when I used it. Much better raised up about 3 1/2".

 

[gregs]

Putting the unit on rollers also makes it more comfortable for blasting. Before I had to crouch when I used it. Much better raised up about 3 1/2".

That was another reason. I have had the upper part sitting on my bench as I have been doing some mods and found it was a comfortable height. A 2x4 is 3 1/2" so it seemed about right.

 

[gregs]

BTT. Got my base built and ready to start assembling it. So I had found a new, unassembled old style cabinet. It’s the kind where everything is welded together and the only part you bolt together is the upper cabinet and the lower hopper. It has some clear sealer on the seams but peals off very easy, so I am taking it out. Was thinking about using some aluminum a/c tape instead of any silicone or caulk. Any thoughts? The seams look tight, was thinking maybe just putting it on the hopper. Going to be running a vacuum while using it so it should have negative pressure to keep the rest from getting out.

 

[ToolPolisher]

I used the foil tape on the outside of the seams and run a vacuum when blasting. The tape holds up fine and no media ever escapes from the taped joints.