HI-LIFT Farm Jack

[blake101]

For people using the farm jack, which length would you prefer the 48'' or the 60''. will only be using it around the house, not for trail riding.

Looking at the XT-485 and the XT-605 Xtreme

 

[plinker]

The 48" length is a bit more manageable I think. I have a 60" but only because it was on sale at the time.

 

[Spiffers]

We used a 48" for bailing tobacco back in the day. We used it for everything and it was almost too big to get into some spots.

 

[McFarmer]

Forty-eight, it's hard enough getting it into were it needs to be sometimes.

Don't know if you've been around them but don't put anything in the way of the handle that can't stand to be wacked.

 

[davethorik]

I have a 60" version I bought at Summit Racing at the Super Summit show. It was on sale + pick up items discounted additional 25% for the show. Got an F150 unstuck from mud, pulled an old basketball hoop concreted in ground, etc so many uses.

 

[kythri]

I've got a 48" and a 60" and I greatly prefer the 48".

 

[B_Bimmer]

48", don't underestimate them, they are dangerous as well as useful.

 

[Firebrick43]

48" will kill you fast enough. Never had any reason for more

 

[Carquest]

I have the 60, damn near indestructible. They will hurt you, you have to be careful. I had a near miss pulling fence posts


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[WittHay]

48" is the most useful size. i have a 36" besides the 48"s. Handy for sideways pushing. The newer US made Hi-Lift jacks seem to be smoother and less troublesome than the older Canadian made Jackall's. Those Jackall's were a little dangerous

 

[straightcut]

I have a 60" and like the rest, recommend the 48".

The must have jack accessory is the Jack Mate:
http://www.jackmate.com/

 

[fourjeepin]

I got a 48” first, then ditched it for a 60”. 48” is about useless when on the trail, but fine for everything else.

 

[icthruu74]

I’ve only had one time that the 48” was almost too short. I start by taking off the top jaw/clamp whatever it’s called, seems like most of the time it’s just in the way.

 

[IMCA38]

48" is the most useful size. i have a 36" besides the 48"s. Handy for sideways pushing. The newer US made Hi-Lift jacks seem to be smoother and less troublesome than the older Canadian made Jackall's. Those Jackall's were a little dangerous

Check out this version.

 

[L5wolvesf]

48" is the most useful size. i have a 36" besides the 48"s. Handy for sideways pushing. The newer US made Hi-Lift jacks seem to be smoother and less troublesome than the older Canadian made Jackall's. Those Jackall's were a little dangerous

Could you elaborate on this some. I just picked up a used Jackall and it looks like the other hi-lift jacks I've had. Thanks

 

[Roberts210]

I got the 48 for jacking up my tractor. Worked great.

 

[Dirtydan69]

If you’ve ever been knocked unconscious from the 48 then you’ll never see a need for the 60.

 

[Farmall450]

I’ve only had one time that the 48” was almost too short. I start by taking off the top jaw/clamp whatever it’s called, seems like most of the time it’s just in the way.

Yeah, unless you're compressing something

 

[ctb]

Could you elaborate on this some. I just picked up a used Jackall and it looks like the other hi-lift jacks I've had. Thanks

One I had would be fine going up. Letting it down always scared the hell out of me. Not unusual for it to come crashing down.

 

[ducksface]

They customize with just a hacksaw.
Buy the 60, adjust to fit if you need to.


(buy the top clamp, make a big removable base, learn how to adapt a ****** block, make different attachments for the lift tongue[a a swinging hook should be your first]
Like a mill, the machine is the basis, the tooling is the key to success)

Just notes from someone who actually uses it as the multitool it can be.
I hate it. It's a last resort... But it's a resort.

 

[blake101]

Has anyone made a custom base for it, and how did it work out?

 

[ducksface]

Has anyone made a custom base for it, and how did it work out?

Make it out of whatever you want any size you want
There are beveled holes in the supplied base for flush mount bolts.

It works out as anything from a 2 foot X 2 foot piece of plywood, to a piece of stall mat, or a hay spike does.

You said you want one but I missed the post about
Why.

Tell us why, we'll tell you how.

 

[blake101]

Make it out of whatever you want any size you want
There are beveled holes in the supplied base for flush mount bolts.

It works out as anything from a 2 foot X 2 foot piece of plywood, to a piece of stall mat, or a hay spike does.

You said you want one but I missed the post about
Why.

Tell us why, we'll tell you how.

Was just thinking about making one out of quarter inch plate to bolt to the bottom of it just for a little bit more stability. Didn't know if it'll work or not.

 

[kythri]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00042KJQ4/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[velocipede]

Couple of years ago it seemed like either me or one of my neighbors were getting our trucks stuck somewhere there were no trees around to use as winch anchors. I used that as an excuse to buy one of the 48" first responder jacks and have used it multiple times. Other than the danger of tipping over and dropping the load unexpectedly, or getting whacked by the jack handle, what are the other "dangerous" aspects of using this tool?

 

[McFarmer]

Was just thinking about making one out of quarter inch plate to bolt to the bottom of it just for a little bit more stability. Didn't know if it'll work or not.

That's what I did. Doesn't take 1/4 inch though, after all you are pushing against the ground. I used maybe 14 ga., they are heavy enough as it is.

 

[Cooter Brown]

Other than the danger of tipping over and dropping the load unexpectedly, or getting whacked by the jack handle, what are the other "dangerous" aspects of using this tool?

That ain't enough?

 

[shoe1]

They will bend over sideways (fold the bar over) very easy. Always carry a pair of pliers and w-d 40 spray the heck out of it and used pliers to switch directions and tap on slide. If you watch it and make sure pins go in they are ok. Base a 12" plow disk with piece of channel iron welded to it with bolts to fit jack base work really well. My dad broke his jaw with one. Never put anything over the jack handle at any time it will break it.

 

[2oolhound]

Thought I'd add some nostaliga here. My 1st intro to jackalls it was pointed out they have a small cam vise on the side which grabs wire as the jack was used by farmers to pull wire fencing tight.

Look for a reputable brand or an old one because the offshore ones are made of tin and will bend, I've seen a few bent imports now.

 

[L5wolvesf]

They will bend over sideways (fold the bar over) very easy.

Does this apply to the solid steel ones or the newer cheaper ones. Until now I'd never heard of this. But I haven't had to use them a lot either.

 

[2oolhound]

When I lived up north everybody owned a jackall and I never saw a bent one. I saw many 4x4 pu's jacked up to the top though with no problems. Now that I'm living in a matropolis and they're making chinese ones I've seen some bent ones. I had one given to me with a pile of scrap steel and it was bent right at the base at close to 90'. One look suggested the steel was soft otherwise it would have had a long curve type bend, not a sharp bend like it had. It still had a newish canadian tire sticker on it which sources about the same line as HF.

The video of the hi-lift thats posted above gives the specs on the steel used, it's strength rating and lifting capacity. They look like good jacks. My old 4' jackall wouldn't bend like that either I'm sure.

 

[shoeless]

pulled an old basketball hoop concreted in ground

What'd you do, just strap the pole and then lift with the jack? Any digging first? Curious as I have two 7'+ concrete clothes line posts I want to be rid of.

 

[davethorik]

Made a nice solid base out of 2x12 scraps, used a chain. Gotta get chain on good so it doesn't slide. No digging. Got it far enough out the hole so it was easily toppled and dragged off by Deere 1025r, unfortunately tractor not large enough to tug full 2' clean out of the ground. No broken bones, no death count.

 

[Gummi Bear]

I have the 60, damn near indestructible. They will hurt you, you have to be careful. I had a near miss pulling fence posts


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Look at the Hi-Lift post puller. Works like a champ, and pulls posts pretty darn fast. I use it at the ranch when I’m moving fence or building a pen.

https://hi-lift.com/products/post-popper/

Thought I'd add some nostaliga here. My 1st intro to jackalls it was pointed out they have a small cam vise on the side which grabs wire as the jack was used by farmers to pull wire fencing tight.



Look for a reputable brand or an old one because the offshore ones are made of tin and will bend, I've seen a few bent imports now.

Hi-Lift has always been made in USA, as far as I know. I have a 48” that my grandpa bought way before I was born (I would guess he bought it in the 50’s). He used it for lots of stuff at work, and around the farm. He gave it to me 20 years ago. I tore it down, cleaned it thoroughly, and bought the rebuild kit with new pins and springs. It has been working flawlessly ever since. I also have a 60” that I carry in my Bronco. It has never missed a lick.

Has anyone made a custom base for it, and how did it work out?

I was going to mention the offroad base, but there is already a link to it a couple posts above me. They work pretty darn good.





I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately...

Henry David Thoreau

 

[icthruu74]

Made a nice solid base out of 2x12 scraps, used a chain. Gotta get chain on good so it doesn't slide. No digging. Got it far enough out the hole so it was easily toppled and dragged off by Deere 1025r, unfortunately tractor not large enough to tug full 2' clean out of the ground. No broken bones, no death count.

I’ve done this with everfrom T-posts to a similar cemented in clothesline post. I’ve got and old trailer safety chair that is perfect for this type of work.

That post popper would have been great about 10 years ago when I was resetting fence.

 

[shoeless]

Made a nice solid base out of 2x12 scraps, used a chain. Gotta get chain on good so it doesn't slide. No digging. Got it far enough out the hole so it was easily toppled and dragged off by Deere 1025r, unfortunately tractor not large enough to tug full 2' clean out of the ground. No broken bones, no death count.

Cool, thanks! Need to go find the Hi-Lift my dad grabbed from my grandpa.

 

[highland512]

How about a 240 inch?
This 20' fully functional (But welded for safety) Hi-Lift sits out in front of the "Jack Factory" in Bloomfield Indiana. Use to drive by it everyday on the way to school and spent many Friday and Saturday nights hanging out in the parking lot this is located in.

 

[4x4gearhead]

I have the 60 and have been glad to have it at times, and wish i had the 48 also at other times. Not to say i may not still pick one up at some point. I figure as long as you arent working on tall offroad trucks the 48 should be fine.

 

[Jlarson]

Only time I can really remember needing the 60" was on some real high deck over trailers e used to work on occasionally, when they needed repairs we'd lift them with the big high lift and set them on some stands we built.

I always take a 48" with me when I'm towing one of our shop trailers now cause its the easiest way to change a tire on them.

 

[fourjeepin]

They customize with just a hacksaw.
Buy the 60, adjust to fit if you need to.


(buy the top clamp, make a big removable base, learn how to adapt a ****** block, make different attachments for the lift tongue[a a swinging hook should be your first]
Like a mill, the machine is the basis, the tooling is the key to success)

Just notes from someone who actually uses it as the multitool it can be.
I hate it. It's a last resort... But it's a resort.

I had to use one to pull my Jeep once. It sucked bad. Warn makes this look easy. With a ****** block, you wouldn’t get much pull before the jack bottomed out especially with a 48”. We had to reset frequently with my 60” and no ****** block...