All junctions /connections have to be accessible, regardless if it is gfci or not
How do you propose to relocate the GFCI?The chimney is fake & is removable w/o tools. The outlet would be easily accessible, just not visible. No upstream outlets here to convert w/o difficult wall to ceiling to wall runs.
Remove the cord and hardwireSo that goes back to the original question in the OP, how do you wire an island range hood that comes with a plug?
I'll tell you later how mine is....
But isn't that a violation to cut the cord off an appliance?Remove the cord and hardwire
Yep. Fully accessible when you remove the hood and disassemble.But isn't that a violation to cut the cord off an appliance?
And the junction would still need to be accessible
Maybe?
Isn't it crazy that there could be a “ventless” hood somewhere like that directs greasy smoke from your stovetop upward to blow out across your white ceiling paint?Maybe?
I stole the first pic I found online. Mine definitely does not have vents.
I suppose. Mine has a nice 6" duct to a roof vent.Isn't it crazy that there could be a “ventless” hood somewhere like that directs greasy smoke from your stovetop upward to blow out across your white ceiling paint?
Me too.I suppose. Mine has a nice 6" duct to a roof vent.
Well, that calls for a GFCI with an alarm, or a GFCI breaker. Though to be fair, this has got to be the dumbest requirement for a GCFI after a garage door opener. I'm all for code when it improves safety, but it's pointless here other than to check a box off for an inspector and add a point of failure....The outlet would be easily accessible, just not visible...
That leaves the power cord visually obnoxious. I either hard wire it or put the outlet in the chimney cover.Put the GFCI inside an adjacent cabinet. That way it will still be accessible.
And add to the profits of the electrical manufacturers...I'm all for code when it improves safety, but it's pointless here other than to check a box off for an inspector and add a point of failure.