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Firebrick43

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May 12, 2015
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West central Indiana
So, what did you attach the "leftmost" end to on a helo? The nearest frame member?
An adjacent screw hole that you have already removed the screw from. It could even be several screw holes aways. The panels will have a screw about every 2" around the perimeter of a panel.
Similarly, how does our OP of this device anchor that left end? See the all threed rods.

Does it thread into an existing threaded hole? If so, seems like you could thrash the threads on the existing hole if not careful.
Never had an issue with that? Of course we were not dealing with tiny screws either, they were #10-32 screws. If a thread was messed up it was from the previous screw seizing normally and you riveted in a new floating nut plate.
 
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Jeffrey D

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Aug 9, 2016
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90
Location
Christiana, TN
So, what did you attach the "leftmost" end to on a helo? The nearest frame member?

Similarly, how does our OP of this device anchor that left end? See the all threed rods.

Does it thread into an existing threaded hole? If so, seems like you could thrash the threads on the existing hole if not careful.
Yes, just thread it into an adjacent hole. I've never stripped a nut plate or the all thread yet with it. It has saved me numerous times from drilling / extracting.
 

Radio Flyer

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Mar 28, 2010
Messages
1,682
Location
Suburban Chicago
Yesterday, I made a wrench extender from a piece of garage door opener steel and angle iron. I saw a few on GJ and decided to make one today. God willing, I will become a better welder some day. He is good.

Extender 1.jpegExtender 2.jpegExtender with wrench.jpeg
This place is a bad influence.


IMG_3299.jpegIMG_3302.jpegIMG_3303.jpegIMG_3306.jpeg


As for the welding….

I worked with a guy that would say “ A grinder and some paint make a welder what he ain’t” .
 

Shitbox

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Joined
Nov 28, 2021
Messages
61
Had some downtime waiting for the painter to get parts back so made a couple quickies.
Crowfoot holder(3/8 square bar tapped for 10/32 set screw and other end peened over to hold everything):
IMG-6356.jpg
IMG-6355.jpg

Tucking fork since I don’t have a *********** kick Shrinker/stretcher:
IMG-6332.jpg
Need to knock the rest of the spatter off and sand more and polish but have to get back to work soon.
 

Beerhippie

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Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,606
Location
Far NE Oregon
I needed to replace the timing belt on the Subaru EJ 25 engine in my Vanagon recently.

To get the timing cover off, of course, you have to remove the crankshaft pulley. The bolt that secures it is torqued to 130 ftlb:

55004944546_5e294624d9_o.jpg

I've watched several videos of burlier men than I wrestling with a Suby pulley holder and long wrench to break that bolt loose. I'm not that burly, and I'm too cheap to buy a tool for a job I'll likely never have to do again. I also have a nice M18 1/2" rattle gun.

I have the trans off, which gives me easy access to the flywheel, and I recall a tool I had many years ago which we used for clutch/flywheel work on our AC VWs.

So I made one, based on forty-odd-year-old memories:

55010840439_7c303930f0_o.jpg

55010840434_a58c02db48_o.jpg

A 1 1/2" long piece of 1 1/2" square tube, an angle grinder with cut-off wheel, some fine tuning to fit the ring gear teeth, a little hot-metal glue gun, and it works!

55002052766_23289b33da_o.jpg

55002351355_0283044029_o.jpg

The lower nut is just there as a spacer.

With that holding the crank and my new rattle gun it took a few effort-free seconds to get that pulley free:

55004068922_fa10846616_o.jpg

I decided it was a keeper, so I cleaned up a few rougher edges and shot a coat of Rusto Safety Red on it:

55026206043_0be49f57d1_o.jpg

Pretty? Nope. Effective? Yep. The red paint will, hopefully, keep it from getting tossed in the scrap bin.
 

mikeinri

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Joined
Nov 29, 2019
Messages
8,206
Location
MA
Had some downtime waiting for the painter to get parts back so made a couple quickies.
Crowfoot holder(3/8 square bar tapped for 10/32 set screw and other end peened over to hold everything):
IMG-6356.jpg
IMG-6355.jpg

Tucking fork since I don’t have a *********** kick Shrinker/stretcher:
IMG-6332.jpg
Need to knock the rest of the spatter off and sand more and polish but have to get back to work soon.

Love the crowfoot holder! If I make one, I'll probably drill straight through and use a spring clip, just so I don't need another tool to get to the crowfeet.

Mike
 

zmotorsports

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Oct 20, 2009
Messages
21,308
Location
Northern Utah
Had some downtime waiting for the painter to get parts back so made a couple quickies.
Crowfoot holder(3/8 square bar tapped for 10/32 set screw and other end peened over to hold everything):
IMG-6356.jpg

I also used a length of key stock for each of my standard and metric Matco crows feet sets, but used a spring clip for quick removal without tools. Works well to keep the packaging small for storage.
 

RTM

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May 13, 2019
Messages
13,049
Location
SF Bay Area
I like the idea of having access from both ends to make it faster to get to the one you need--which, of course, will be the one right in the middle.
Mine are like the back set of his. Someone commercially sells one with two telescoping tubes, so the cEnter wrench is no more problem than any other. More than I can think thru right now, but an even better idea.
 

mikeinri

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Nov 29, 2019
Messages
8,206
Location
MA
Mine are like the back set of his. Someone commercially sells one with two telescoping tubes, so the cEnter wrench is no more problem than any other. More than I can think thru right now, but an even better idea.

Would LOVE to see that, please post a link!

Mike
 

Beerhippie

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Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,606
Location
Far NE Oregon
Since I was using it today:

55031394542_8460394ccf_o.jpg

My DIY pressure gauge calibration rig. Janky as it looks, it works quite well. The important things are the ANSI-cert and calibrated (every year) digital 0-30 psi pressure gauge and precision regulator in the same range. The plumbing doesn't have to look good and occasionally gets remodeled for different gauges and monitors.

I have the T on top as these are a set of gauges that have not only to be accurate, but also read the same.

We use a LOT of pressure gauges and monitoring devices around a brewery and they need to be pretty well spot-on.
 
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RTM

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May 13, 2019
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SF Bay Area

mikeinri

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Nov 29, 2019
Messages
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Location
MA
Seen others besides Amazon, forget which brands.


I was picturing something made from stainless square tubes. But, that's an interesting idea.

Mike
 

Outlawmws

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Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,080
Location
The Badlands
I was picturing something made from stainless square tubes. But, that's an interesting idea.

Mike

You might be able to get some hobbyist square brass tubing in 3/8 (if not too snug) and 5/15, - I know they make the round stock so they are slip fits in each size increment. I suspect the same is true for the square stock. then make your own.

I use 1X2x5/16 block magnets (I originally got a supply when I worked at company that designed and manufactured custom canning conveyors, to transport the cans). I have several on the wall of my deep socket drawers and a set of crow feet just get stuck to the side I can pull any size with a slight tug.

I also us them on the bottom of the drawer, and these have been my "Socket rails" for over 40 years except for those I keep in the old school socket trays, (which I like as I can bring a whole set to the work) even those land on a couple of magnets....

I did the same for screw drivers until the driver handles went wall to wall and they weren't going anywhere, even when I transported the box to the track.
 

tamaraw

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Joined
Jun 6, 2022
Messages
842
Partially homemade tool?

My Cornwell dealer gave me a discount on a 1/4" ratchet that had been sitting on the truck for a few years. I didn't take a photo before I started but it had a soft handle like this with a weird concave square profile where the guy's thumb is, that had to go.

1768356250418.png
Pulled that off to reveal a round shank with pressed "wings" like you might see on a screwdriver blade.

I cut the wings off leaving a round shank, then slightly reduced the diameter of the last 1/2" or so with a file and cut 5/16-24 threads with a die.

I didn't have a lathe to make the new handle, so I used a 1/2-20 bolt, nut, and some washers to mount a threaded chuck (spare from a cordless drill) in the middle of my drill press table facing upwards. I used that as a static tool holder for the drill bit and used the drill press to spin a length of 1/2" diameter brass rod.

1000016389.jpg

With a little trial and error, that gave me a blind hole approximately in the center of the new handle. I made the hole stepped so the larger diameter would just go over the shank and last 1/2" or so was smaller where the threads go. That also gave me access to get the tap down to the bottom of the hole.

Then I just used a file and some light sanding to match the taper of the handle where the two pieces meet and rounded off the end.
I did try bluing the brass to be darker like the steel which looked cool but wore off pretty quick with use, hence the few dark spots.
Not a professional job, but it was fun to make and I think it turned out ok :)

IMG_5882.JPG

IMG_5881.JPG
 

mikeinri

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Joined
Nov 29, 2019
Messages
8,206
Location
MA
Partially homemade tool?

My Cornwell dealer gave me a discount on a 1/4" ratchet that had been sitting on the truck for a few years. I didn't take a photo before I started but it had a soft handle like this with a weird concave square profile where the guy's thumb is, that had to go.

1768356250418.png
Pulled that off to reveal a round shank with pressed "wings" like you might see on a screwdriver blade.

I cut the wings off leaving a round shank, then slightly reduced the diameter of the last 1/2" or so with a file and cut 5/16-24 threads with a die.

I didn't have a lathe to make the new handle, so I used a 1/2-20 bolt, nut, and some washers to mount a threaded chuck (spare from a cordless drill) in the middle of my drill press table facing upwards. I used that as a static tool holder for the drill bit and used the drill press to spin a length of 1/2" diameter brass rod.

1000016389.jpg

With a little trial and error, that gave me a blind hole approximately in the center of the new handle. I made the hole stepped so the larger diameter would just go over the shank and last 1/2" or so was smaller where the threads go. That also gave me access to get the tap down to the bottom of the hole.

Then I just used a file and some light sanding to match the taper of the handle where the two pieces meet and rounded off the end.
I did try bluing the brass to be darker like the steel which looked cool but wore off pretty quick with use, hence the few dark spots.
Not a professional job, but it was fun to make and I think it turned out ok :)

IMG_5882.JPG

IMG_5881.JPG

Wow, I love the perseverance on display here! Cool idea to use the second chuck on the drill press table to improvise a lathe!

Mike
 

Shitbox

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 28, 2021
Messages
61
I also used a length of key stock for each of my standard and metric Matco crows feet sets, but used a spring clip for quick removal without tools. Works well to keep the packaging small for storage.
I left the set screws out about 3/16” so I can spin it out with my fingers. Yours would be way more functional but it’s what I had on hand. At some point I’m going to try and make it a ball detent for the hell of it.
 

larry4406

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Jan 27, 2006
Messages
18,935
Location
Northern Virginia
I left the set screws out about 3/16” so I can spin it out with my fingers. Yours would be way more functional but it’s what I had on hand. At some point I’m going to try and make it a ball detent for the hell of it.
Tubalcane on YouTube has a video where he makes Gits style oilers for his lathe. In it he shows how he made the spring loaded ball detent and peened it in place.
 

Car hobby

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Joined
Nov 9, 2012
Messages
75
Location
DFW,Texas
About 50 years ago my late father made a small number of these car windscreen ice scrapers for family members. I have carried mine in every car I have owned and used it each winter. I last used it only last week.

DSCF0565R.jpg
Those are priceless and treasurable. Here are a couple that my father and grandfather made over 50 years ago.
 

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larry4406

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Jan 27, 2006
Messages
18,935
Location
Northern Virginia
Shop made tool for installing a toilet flange without damaging the outer diameter. Some scrap metal, cut off bolts and an old 1/2" drive socket. Nothing fancy but it'll get the job done for a one-time task.

bath9.jpg

tool.jpg
Nice spanner!

I’ve never worked on an RV, so I was surprised to see in your other thread that the toilet flange is threaded.
 

zmotorsports

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Joined
Oct 20, 2009
Messages
21,308
Location
Northern Utah
Nice spanner!

I’ve never worked on an RV, so I was surprised to see in your other thread that the toilet flange is threaded.

Thank you.

I've seen flanges both glued and threaded in RV's. Glad mine was threaded as access to the underside to cut and then glue would have been problematic.
 

ctandc72

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Sep 19, 2020
Messages
1,085
Location
VA
@zmotorsports That tool looks really familiar. Years ago we had a 6" metal junction break, the flange threaded in and it was corroded pretty bad (underground). After a lot of heat and no joy - we welded some bar stock onto the flange and a big socket on it and were able to break it loose without having to dig up the entire section to cut it off.
 

zmotorsports

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Joined
Oct 20, 2009
Messages
21,308
Location
Northern Utah
@zmotorsports That tool looks really familiar. Years ago we had a 6" metal junction break, the flange threaded in and it was corroded pretty bad (underground). After a lot of heat and no joy - we welded some bar stock onto the flange and a big socket on it and were able to break it loose without having to dig up the entire section to cut it off.

I think this is a common "style" of tool amongst a wide range of industries. I have had to fabricate several of this style in my career as an Industrial Maintenance Mechanic over the course of nearly 40-years now. What is unfortunate is that when I've needed one I have gone to my toolbox to see if a prior tool will work and of course, they never do. :rolleyes: They are just different enough in size that they were not interchangeable. So a "new" tool had to be fabricated and then stored away.
 

ctandc72

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Sep 19, 2020
Messages
1,085
Location
VA
I think this is a common "style" of tool amongst a wide range of industries. I have had to fabricate several of this style in my career as an Industrial Maintenance Mechanic over the course of nearly 40-years now. What is unfortunate is that when I've needed one I have gone to my toolbox to see if a prior tool will work and of course, they never do. :rolleyes: They are just different enough in size that they were not interchangeable. So a "new" tool had to be fabricated and then stored away.
Yup. That's common. I've also seen it in the field where a big metal bar / piece of stock was welded to the flange so it could be gripped from either side and turned. Necessity, and not wanting to spend hours going back to the shop to get more tools / equipment, is the mother of invention after all.
 
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