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Hose Bib handle?

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Orangestang

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Dec 22, 2010
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Glendale ,AZ
Need Help trying to find a shut off handle for this hose bib, no luck at HD, Lowes or Ferguson Plumbing. It has 2 flats on it not 12 or 16 points. I don't want to change it out cause I would have to bust out the stucco to sweat in a new one, hoping I could change the guts but it won't come out. Any old time plumbers out there? I don't know what brand it is. Only has a fancy F cast into it.
 

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kbs2244

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I never did understand why something this simple has not been standardized.
But I have a collection of 3 or 4 in my plumbing tools box.

I would go with the square idea or find a plumbing supply house.
 
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weadjust

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Tupelo, MS
http://www.mandlehandle.com/

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or put one of these on, turn the faucet on with some pliers, and leave it on

61JtbuG3wfL._SX425_.jpg
 
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driftpin

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A couple of decent-sized pipe wrenches won't remove the stem male thread cap? Something that small, should part company easily. Did you try some heat?

See page 13, item #3, oval handle. There is a picture showing a handle with two parallel flats, and the distance between the curved opposite ends is longer than the distance between the parallel flats.

A handle that has more 'meat' to it (not as-many cutouts) is on p.15.

Apparently the catalog doesn't number every page but you'll find it.

http://prier.com/images/Spec Sheet Catalog.pdf
 

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wssix99

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Chicago, IL
weadjust said:
or put one of these on, turn the faucet on with some pliers, and leave it on

61JtbuG3wfL._SX425_.jpg
Click to expand...

Or even screw another heavier duty valve on the end.

If the OP can get channel locks on the pipe, that old spigot will just screw off and the whole thing can be replaced. (Probably similar to the cost of a separate handle.)
 
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rlitman

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Oct 18, 2010
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Long Island
LS6 Tommy said:
I don't see any threads, but I've never seen a sweat bib with a hex on the pipe inlet...

Tommy
Click to expand...

Good point. The only time you would expect to see that, would be with 3/4" external threads, and a 1/2" internal sweat, and this isn't that.

However, unless you can see the fitting on the other end of the threaded ****** behind that valve, you run the risk of unscrewing the wrong end if you try to unscrew the valve. And being a threaded ******, I'm going to say there's a chance that it's galvanized pipe headed into an iron fitting. So unscrewing the valve may open up a can of worms.
 
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CJ7VFR

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Central New Jersey
LS6 Tommy said:
I don't see any threads, but I've never seen a sweat bib with a hex on the pipe inlet...

Tommy
Click to expand...

Maybe the threads are all gunked up and covered with the stucco material? The picture shows paint and other stuff all over the pipe coming out of the wall.

Jim
 
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EOC_Jason

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Bentonville, AR
rlitman said:
Good point. The only time you would expect to see that, would be with 3/4" external threads, and a 1/2" internal sweat, and this isn't that.

However, unless you can see the fitting on the other end of the threaded ****** behind that valve, you run the risk of unscrewing the wrong end if you try to unscrew the valve. And being a threaded ******, I'm going to say there's a chance that it's galvanized pipe headed into an iron fitting. So unscrewing the valve may open up a can of worms.
Click to expand...

^^^ That's my thoughts.

Have you looked on McMaster Carr?
 
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Jackfre

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N CA
That type bib is used in commercial settings or where you don't want someone to simply be able to turn on the water as they are passing. I'm surprised it is a problem finding a square head key for that bib. The square head is usually inverted or covered lay a surrounding shroud. Not showing any threads at the back of the bib, I think the threads are in the wall. That should not be a problem...as long as the piping is properly supported. If it isn't you are fishing, maybe with a hammer.
 
OP
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Orangestang

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Dec 22, 2010
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Glendale ,AZ
I tried to get the stem out along with some heat, no luck, I'm pretty sure the bib is soldered on, I've changed quite a few just not so close to the wall and the stem only has 2 flats, may try filing 2 more flats to make a square on it if I can't find the right part. Also I won't twist on it cause this is a typical AZ tract home and do not contain 100% copper in the walls Etc. Everything is pex with copper on the end of the runs. This is a rental house so vise grips won't fly either. Thanks
 
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RocketScott

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Lexington, KY
I can't see the plumber taking the time to solder that on. That said, I've seen dumber things done so I shouldn't say it's not possible

It has to be threaded onto the pipe coming out of the wall. It's not a frost free valve with a long tailpiece

I'd try turning off the water, taking the valve body out, heating it with a torch, and unscrewing it.

A penetrant like B'laster might help but you'll need to clean the paint off the back and maybe the water out of the inside.

That's probably a galvanized pipe threaded into a fitting that is crimped to the pex. Heating it up enough should get it to release before the threads inside the wall break free.
 
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carl292

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Nov 19, 2012
Messages
4
Mine looks the same and I can look behind
There and I have copper that is sweated on.
This is my side garage wall so I may cut out the back side or inside garage wall to access and cut it out. Thoughts advise

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L

langss

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Jan 31, 2009
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322
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California
Just a note here....The Gas Valve used in Fireplaces has a smaller Square than the traditional shrouded Security Hose bib. You may not have to file it down very much to make it fit.
 
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lilredex

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Apr 29, 2006
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Toronto
Why not make a collar with a set screw and weld on a cross handle? A round hole with a set screw will grab on to any shape of stem.
 
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59 wagon man

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Oct 25, 2010
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hollywood fla
universal faucet handle will have an adapter with a few set screws to adapt to stem and then you can put on the handle that came with it. otherwise i would chip enough stucco so i could hold back with a good pair of channellocks and unscrew it. t
 
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