Your coating may have not failed. Your prep job MAY be the culprit.
Solids content has "0" to do with a coating succeeding other than general wear from abrasion, traffic, etc...
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Exactly. Just because a product is 100% solids does not mean it is superior to another lower solids product. It just means that you won't get as much shrinkage while the product cures, compared to a product with lower solids. Now don't get me wrong, there are a lot of 100% solids products that perform great, but there are also a lot of ~60-80% solids epoxies that perform just as well if not better. It's all in the makeup, chemistry, and quality of the epoxy resins used. One of the main reasons to use 100% solids epoxies is to get your desired mil thickness in one coat, instead or 2, 3, or more coats.
here was my prep work. Cleaned the floor twice with degreaser and etched it until all the original sealer was up. I tested the floor with water to ensure that the water would soak in rather than bead up. Then I painted it with two coats of garage floor paint. Finally, finished it with two coats of epoxy sealer. I am not sure what else I could have done regarding prep work.
After de-greasing you should have ground the floor. Sure etching probably profiled the floor a bit, but I doubt it removed the sealer completely to be honest. It's really not a recommended method, but people still use it and I look at it as cheating. I understand grinding isn't always in the budget, so you have to choose SOME method of prep, right? Well save your pennies until you can afford the grind. Epoxy should go straight to concrete, there is no point in using a generic "garage floor paint" as your primer. That only weakens your whole flooring system as it will not adhere to concrete like epoxy will.
If you want to re-coat your floor, grind it all down to concrete and start with a clean slate.
For a primer, I suggest using a quality epoxy with a solids content somewhere in the mid-high 50-60 percentile range. Thin it down an additional 10-15% percent or so before rolling it on. Roll it on just a bit heavier than manufacturer's recommendations (because you thinned it down and more will evaporate). You really want your primer to penetrate INTO the concrete slab and bond with it. Stuff like "garage floor paints" can sometimes just sit on top of the concrete never making a proper bond, and they're quite rubbish.
Proceed with the flooring of your choice once your primer is properly applied. Good luck!
