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wyliesdiesels

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Can u take a better picture? What brand is that box?

Hard to tell if its listed as service equipment or not. It does say 3-wire but that could be old and based off of pre 2008 NEC code, when 3-wire feeders were still allowed. Looks more like an RV power pedastal, which are installed as subpanels off of main service panels that feed an RV park...
 
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galute

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I will try to get a better picture tomorrow while I'm down there. I did get two ground rods drove in and hooked up today for the shop panel. I have not removed the bonding strap in the shop panel yet. I thought I better get the neutral and ground bonded in the main panel before I unhooked that one.
 

wyliesdiesels

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I will try to get a better picture tomorrow while I'm down there. I did get two ground rods drove in and hooked up today for the shop panel. I have not removed the bonding strap in the shop panel yet. I thought I better get the neutral and ground bonded in the main panel before I unhooked that one.

DO NOT unhook the bond in the shop panel. Its a 3-wire feed so it needs to stay as is until u change it to 4-wire...

The ground rods are a different animal and they dont take the place of an EGC...
 

sberry

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We would end a lot of confusion if we basically said,,, the rods are for lightning,,,, they really don't have much to do with this. The metal case of anything you use needs to be connected to the neutral main. If it goes thru a sub,,, same thing, carried by the ground wire back to bonded neutral main and,,,, all metal meets at this point via a wire and so there is no potential difference between machines either.
 

sberry

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Nest we want to understand neutral or more accurately grounded conductor,,, an insulated wire, the point of all this is that we keep alternate pathways for neutral currents insulated and grounds have a fault path and at the same potential of all around us.
 

wyliesdiesels

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galute

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Just did some digging for u and IT IS suitable as service equipment. Youre in luck.

Just bond the neutral and ground bars and u should be good to go!

http://products.geindustrial.com/In...her?REQUEST=SPECPAGE&PRODUCT_NUMBER=R038C010U

SWEET! I was sweating the possibility of having to change out that meter panel. Thank you very much for all your help and patience. :beer:

Now if I could just find someplace that sells that cable you recommended by the foot I could change that out and be good to go. All the local places I have checked near me only sell it in a 500' roll including Lowes and Home depot. They all sell the URD by the foot but not the MHF. They also sell 2-2-4-6 MHF by the foot but not 2-2-2-4. Sigh...
 
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galute

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Well I got the wire. I found a electrical supply place about 20 miles away. They didn't stock it there but they did at their main store in Little Rock. One of the guys that works there was going to the main store anyway so he grabbed what I need while there. I went and picked it up today. Weather is **** here so I hope to get it changed out one day next week.
 
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galute

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Thought I would update this thread. I like to post solutions to problems in case it can help someone else.

I pulled out the old wire and replace it with the 2-2-2-4 MHF. All in 2'' pvc conduit. I bonded the neutral and ground in the meter panel. I isolated the neutral and ground bars inside the subpanel in the shop and added 2 8' ground rods connected to the ground bar inside the shop panel with #6 bare copper. I used the anti corrosion paste on all of the aluminum connections. I think I should be good to go now.

I am extremely thankful for everyone's help.
 
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galute

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Ooops, knew I was forgetting to mention something. I did change out the 50 amp breaker in the meter box for a 100 amp. I know it needs to be derated but I was unsure of how much and the 100 amp was all they had in stock at the time.
 
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galute

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Sweet! I'll get it on order. I will be glad to have this project marked off the list of things to do. Thanks much for all your help.
 
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