Something that I'm not understanding?
How can this be?
- Thread starter The Cobbler
- Start date
sparky 1971
Well-known member
L10-30R. Two hots and a neutral, no ground. I have no idea what it would be used for but the straight blade 10-30R was what electric dryers plugged in to pre 1996.
rlitman
Well-known member
My parents had a GE electric range that had 120V convenience outlets in the upper corners of the backsplash (under the knobs). Any time you ran something off of them, you got a tingle when touching the range, since the ground and neutral were shared. We don't allow that sort of stuff any more. The slotted screws are a nice giveaway.
OP
as far as I know we never did allow combined ground & neutral . our stoves & dryers were always hard wired until about 1970 ish , when plug & receptacle started to come in .
InjectorService
Well-known member
Thats a typical 30A twist lock generator plug.
EDIT: and it is typically used on 120V. So there would be a ground and a neutral both.
EDIT: and it is typically used on 120V. So there would be a ground and a neutral both.
OP
I've never seen a dual voltage 3 prong twist lock plug for a generator .
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
You can buy lots of stuff at stores that are not code compliant.
Saddle valves are one that jump out at me
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rlitman
Well-known member
Hubbell was making plugs and receptacles long before NEMA was standardizing them. Sure, you didn't need a plug for a range or dryer when it could just as easily be hard wired with no additional expense, but the same can't be said for many other things. Commercial kitchen equipment comes to mind. Studio and stage lighting for another.
K13
Well-known member
This. When I was a kid my dad had an electronics shop above a stage lighting company and ran spots for them as a side gig so I got to play around in the shop. Every par can in the place used this type of plug. Can't have lights coming unplugged.
alfredeneuman
Well-known member
Hubbell invented and patented the first separable plug and receptacle
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
any dryer or range that was installed pre-1996 code cycle had a bonded neutral at the connection terminals.... ive seen it many times.... this is because they used a 10-30 or 10-50. 14-30 and 14-50 was not used back then.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
@The Cobbler is canadian
sparky 1971
Well-known member
A 30 amp 120 volt twist lock would be a L5-30R. While they look similar when not side by side, they most definitely aren't. Push as hard as you want to, but one won't plug in to the other.
sparky 1971
Well-known member
No need to be name calling...
rlitman
Well-known member
Not supposed to work, but I've seen 20A locking plugs forced into 30A receptacles, so YMMV.
Oddly, I found a picture online of this legitimate current production L6-30, which also says 125/250V:
You are indeed correct that Cobbler's connector is an obsolete L10-30, and that shouldn't be compatible with an L6-30, but with enough force, metal prongs bend and plastic deforms too, so I wouldn't go telling people to hammer in puzzle pieces.
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
Theres no way that is UL listed. It has the wrong voltage label on it.Not supposed to work, but I've seen 20A locking plugs forced into 30A receptacles, so YMMV.
Oddly, I found a picture online of this legitimate current production L6-30, which also says 125/250V:
You are indeed correct that Cobbler's connector is an obsolete L10-30, and that shouldn't be compatible with an L6-30, but with enough force, metal prongs bend and plastic deforms too, so I wouldn't go telling people to hammer in puzzle pieces.
(L)6-30r is 250v only
sparky 1971
Well-known member
I suppose it is possible, but the angled end pieces are opposite each other between a 1030 and a 630.Not supposed to work, but I've seen 20A locking plugs forced into 30A receptacles, so YMMV.
Oddly, I found a picture online of this legitimate current production L6-30, which also says 125/250V:
You are indeed correct that Cobbler's connector is an obsolete L10-30, and that shouldn't be compatible with an L6-30, but with enough force, metal prongs bend and plastic deforms too, so I wouldn't go telling people to hammer in puzzle pieces.
Just yesterday the supply house screwed up an order for me and gave me a L16-30P and a L16-20C, both were supposed to be 20 amps. Of course, I didn't catch it until I tried to plug them together and found it to be an exercise in futility. They sure looked the same until compared side by side.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
With practice, you'll improve. Just takes time
sparky 1971
Well-known member
There was a 20 ton press about eight feet away. I was thinking about it.
ToolsRCool
Well-known member
My dad has an older Briggs flathead 5kW Coleman generator that has that receptacle on it for 120/240. Nobody cares, but it is out there in the field.
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
i doubt canada always had grounding terminals on receptacles and plugs...
OP
my house is circa early 50's , some of the wire is grounded, some not.it was like whatever the electrician had with no rhyme or reason. none of the receptacles had grounds originally. the stove cable is grounded and is original . I've never seen an ungrounded stove but seen many ungrounded 15amp receptacles . pretty confident we never had bonded grounds & neutrals for stoves , at least post knob & tube anyway
klassenl
Well-known member
My understanding of bonding/grounding of receptacles in Canada was first applied to kitchen plugs. They had to be grounded but nothing else.
I don't recall if I have ever seen a unbonded stove plug in Canada. Typically I don't see much before WW2 so that could be the reason.
I don't recall if I have ever seen a unbonded stove plug in Canada. Typically I don't see much before WW2 so that could be the reason.
dave*99
Well-known member
I have a similar 20A set. It says Hubbell Twist-Lock on the back. It's old.
dave*99
Well-known member
This Hubbell is very old. I have a matching duplex receptacle for it.
Chuckster in NJ
Well-known member
Chuckster in NJ
Well-known member
Lots of wacky configurations.
A old 7310, & a relic of the days before NEMA came up with different configurations for every voltage & ampere rating, the straight blade configuration that the Aussie's copied (20A crowfoot) was rated 20A 250V, it's now 20A, 125/250V, & considered non NEMA like the above pictured cord cap.I have a similar 20A set. It says Hubbell Twist-Lock on the back. It's old.
manwithtools
ALLIANCE MEMBER
alfredeneuman
Well-known member
That's not a receptacle. It's a connector body.
manwithtools
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Picky much?
In NEMA electrical connector terminology, "L" signifies a locking connector, while "R" indicates a receptacle (outlet), meaning a "NEMA L" connector is a locking plug, whereas a "NEMA R" is a standard non-locking outlet; essentially, the "L" prefix denotes a twist-locking mechanism to secure the connection, while "R" simply means it's the receiving part of the connection.
"R" means receptacle.
whateg01
Well-known member
Could that be a disconnect for an electric heater that draws 20 plus amps?
sparky 1971
Well-known member
It could be, but it would be wrong. A 240 volt heater would be two hots and a ground, the 10-30 configuration doesn't have a ground, the third slot is supposed to be for a neutral and wouldn't be connected to the yoke of the receptacle.
manwithtools
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Hmmm... Tell that to @alfredeneuman
I agree completely with you, some folks just have to have it their way.