How do I stop this rust from happening?

[madmax908]

When I put this old Grizzly joiner away, the machined surfaces were clean and had a coating of wax.
I went to pull it out today and there is a uniform layer of rust on the surface.

The 30x40 garage is watertight, insulated and un-heated.

How do I remove the rust with as little damage as possible to the machined surfaces?

How do I prevent it in the future?
(I would coat it with a layer of oil but dont want wood to be stained by it.)

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

Cosmoline.

 

[timdgsr]

What kind of wax was on it?

Generally something like Johnson paste wax or Boeshield T-9 should prevent the rust.

 

[JazzBlueRT]

Waxing steel (especially if pitted) will seal in moisture, contaminants and oxygen and guarantee rust formation.

You can safely remove rust with acid. The severity of the rust will determine the strength of acid needed. Start with citric acid and see if that removes it. If not try Naval Jelly. Lots of people here like Evapo-Rust.

If the rust causes pits, the only way to remove is to grind them out.

 

[mldittmer]

Light coat of Fluid Film will stop the rust.

 

[CJM8515]

when i was a kid and in woodshop the teacher always had is coat the machines with johnsons paste wax heavily and then put wax sheets over it.

 

[Git]

I also use Johnson's Paste Wax (yellow can) which works well. I recently went to the extra step of getting some magnetic sign material because anything flat usually ends up with something sitting on it.

The sign material is easy to put on and take off and I don't have a problem with setting something on top of it

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IU821UK/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Clean it up with Metal Rescue or Evapo Rust, then spray it with Dry Coat.

Tommy

 

[matt_i]

Scotchbrite and elbow grease should clean it up mostly but the pits are not going to come out without further machining.

For long term or "outdoor" storage, which really means in a garage where the large door is opened regularly, I rely on LPS-3 which does have to be removed later via solvent. Boeshield is a possibility as well, sprayed thicker, but its more $. Fluid film is a possibility but I really detest the smell of it at first.

 

[cgrutt]

+1 on Johnsons Paste Wax or Boeshield T9 (longer term storage). Issue that you need to be concerned with is transferring the rust preventative to your wood projects before finishing.

 

[steve185]

I use minwax paste, works well.

 

[RAYJAY]

unheated shop = steel sweating when it get cold and warms up

 

[CKS1955]

I use Boeshield T-9 and Johnson paste wax.

For the rust I would use a razor blade.

When not in use cover bare cast iron surface with blanket.

Jay

 

[NUTTSGT]

unheated shop = steel sweating when it get cold and warms up

Yep, are you heating it ? If you are heating and letting it cool down, it's going to make things sweat.


I suggest even if you aren't heating to set a box fan out there and let it run on low.

 

[GMCGarage]

Boeshield T-9

Put my tools in storage for 2+ years, you could see where I missed.

 

[My Old Tools]

Yep, are you heating it ? If you are heating and letting it cool down, it's going to make things sweat.


I suggest even if you aren't heating to set a box fan out there and let it run on low.

Yep, moving air is a decent defense against sweating. And +1 on Johnson's Paste Wax.

 

[ard]

You can protect the areas you can see...HOWEVER, there will be internals that will rust in an unseated/unconditioned shop.

 

[madmax908]

Thank you everyone for the replies.

What is funny, is there is a BBC engine in front of it with exposed bores, heads on the ground, etc and they look like they just came out of the machine shop with no rust/pitting.

I used a paste wax the last time, but it looks like I should use something stronger.

I will try the naval jelly first to remove the rust (because I have some already) and then try some Boeshield T-9 .

 

[theoldwizard1]

How do I prevent it in the future?
(I would coat it with a layer of oil but dont want wood to be stained by it.)

Your only choice IS OIL !! A light spray of Fluid Film and you will be good. Use any solvent to clean it before using.

 

[PelicanPines]

Fluid film is your friend. One thing... it stinks when you first put it on.

 

[isb cornbinder]

Fluid film is your friend. One thing... it stinks when you first put it on.

Where are you putting this stuff so the "stink" bothers your nose?

 

[yhprum]

Was it covered? Sometimes even an old sheet draped over it will stop condensation from forming on it. Plastic is not as good because it can't breathe underneath.

 

[PelicanPines]

Where are you putting this stuff so the "stink" bothers your nose?

LMAO... well... it's for "My Equipment"... which surrounds my desk... it's not like I have a lot of ROOM in my Tetris/Jenga enabled garage.

 

[vpd66]

Ospho, Clean has much of the rust off has possible. I'd use a scotch rite pad, Then take a rag and dampen it with Ospho. Spread the Ospho all over the bare metal surface but don't let it puddle just get it damp. Let it set for 24 hours and your good to go. I have a Baldor 500 carbide tool grinder with cast iron tables that looked like that and I treated it with Ospho 5 years age and no rust at all.

 

[invalidusername]

I have this same problem. I saw it happening the other day when it was cold out but suddenly was 54 degrees and I was working in the garage.

But by the time I realized, it was too late. Now I have this rust all over my jointer and drill press table.

After using evaporust to clean it, can I use like some sort of a polyurethane or some type of clearcoat to put over it or is that bad?

 

[d.mcfarland]

As other have said, I prefer oil to wax, but there are other tricks also.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Thank you everyone for the replies.

What is funny, is there is a BBC engine in front of it with exposed bores, heads on the ground, etc and they look like they just came out of the machine shop with no rust/pitting.

My BBC is in an engine bag on the stand. A few years ago, I fired up my kero heaters before I went out to the garage to work on it. Good thing i hadn't removed the bag. The outside of the bag was dripping with condensation when I went back out.

Tommy

 

[BukitCase]

I quit using "internal" combustion heat sources (torpedo's, etc) in my unheated shop when I found out just how much WATER is generated - only way around that is a heater that draws combustion air from OUTSIDE and VENTS it BACK outside. (as in "heat exchanger")

Since condensation happens on items that are below dewpoint, I went a different route -

First, for woodworking tools most of the previous suggestions are a major PITA (for me, anyway) - Having to clean off oily **** just to use a tool (and then RE-coat it)l *****.

Johnson's paste wax is one of the FEW waxes that do NOT have SILICONE in the wax so that's what I use - BUT...

If metal parts are allowed to stay below dewpoint, ANY moisture in the room will condense on those parts when the room air warms up FIRST (and it WILL) -

My (less of a PITA for me) solution - I've installed 100 watt incandescent bulbs in clamp lamps - there's one under each bed of each power tool - 2 for jointers, singles for smaller beds (bandsaw, dp, etc) -

For those who think you can't get incandescent bulbs anymore -
https://www.enasco.com/search/?ea_q...xea_path=All Products&boxea_rpp=16&boxea_cp=1

Those are "rough service" rated; so far I haven't lost one from running tools without removing the lamps...

All are plugged into small power strips "locally", just light lamp extension cords in various lengths - power strips are then run to a "master" power strip, which is fed from a HF "drill speed control", set at about half power...

The speed control does TWO things - costs less to run, bulbs last FOREVER, and still keeps those surfaces warmer than surrounding air.

Only heat I use in the shop now is electric, and only when I HAVE to work in there when it's cold out - a 6kw 240 volt and a couple radiant 120volt heaters aimed at ME works pretty well, and does NOT put MORE WATER into the shop air.

My propane "torpedo" heater got relegated to when I HAVE TO work on a tractor or other OUTSIDE equipment in crappy weather.

Sorry, none of my pics show this; hopefully the description is enough... Steve

 

[Jackfre]

I use my random orbit polisher, not sander, with a 320 grit pad and WD-40 to clean up the rust land then I polish with the Johnson's paste wax (no silicone).
Years ago I had to put my Unisaw away for an extended period and I was concerned about the surface. I had some POR-15 left over and I painted it. I had a lot of work to do to get it cleaned up, but it worked. No rust.

 

[Lelandwelds]

Corrosion X (or Corrosion X HD if you don't need the penetrant) will prevent rust better than any sheep by product. A vapor paper or inhibitor bag will kill rust indefinitely if you stay out of the bag. There is no clean up or product to degrease.

 

[niget2002]

I use my random orbit polisher, not sander, with a 320 grit pad and WD-40 to clean up the rust land then I polish with the Johnson's paste wax (no silicone).
Years ago I had to put my Unisaw away for an extended period and I was concerned about the surface. I had some POR-15 left over and I painted it. I had a lot of work to do to get it cleaned up, but it worked. No rust.

This is what I did.

I recently acquired some old tools from my grandfather. I used scotch bright pads and wd-40 to scrub all the surface rust off of everything. Then cleaned with rubbing alcohol before polishing with Johnson's past wax.

 

[Showkey]

+3 on the random orbit sander or polisher with scotch bright pads ( grit based on rust severity) and lube or solvent of your choosing like WD40.

 

[Jon_E]

Storing woodworking machinery in an unheated space (well, pretty much any uncoated steel surface) will invite rust. I used to have major problems with rust until I moved my wood shop to a heated, conditioned space. The solution for me, for surface rust, has always been to remove it with a combination of razor blades (used as a scraper) and green Scotch-brite pads with some kind of penetrating oil (I like Kroil or PB Blaster). This takes off the majority, then a random-orbit sander with a Scotch-brite pad to get the rest. Degrease with denatured alcohol and then apply White Diamond Butcher's Bowling Alley Wax. I don't think you can get the White Diamond stuff anymore, so SC Johnsons paste wax in the yellow can is a close second. Apply heavy and buff out. The added advantage to the wax is that it does not have silicone so it will not affect a finish on the wood (silicone creates "fish-eyes" in a clear finish) and the wood slides effortlessly on a clean waxed surface.

 

[invalidusername]

Are you guys talking about these scotch brite pads?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006I1OWO/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Or are you talking about the hand pads like the ones you use for cookware in your house?

 

[alfazer]

Clean with scotchbrite and then coat with very light coat of ACF50.
It's marketed as an aviation corrosion inhibiter but here in damp old Ireland, it's sold in every motorcycle shop.

I rarely see it mentioned on GJ, which is a surprise because it thought it was originally an american product.

 

[niget2002]

Are you guys talking about these scotch brite pads?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006I1OWO/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Or are you talking about the hand pads like the ones you use for cookware in your house?

The hand ones like you use in the kitchen. If you go to Lowe's, they have 'coarse' versions that are rougher than the green ones.

 

[Showkey]

The regular 3m pads will “hook on” the hook and loop pad on the sander/polisher and they are available in multiple grits. Gray, maroon and white are the common grits. White pads are the fine grit and have very little abrasive and are more like 0000 steel wool. The pads can be used by hand.....just more work and less polishing effect.

 

[kbs2244]

Remember, L I means salt air.

 

[jdoe213]

Johnson's Paste Wax has always worked well for me on my saws. They stay in an unheated basement with no rust forming.