How do you install Push-Lock fittings?

[GirlnAgarage]

Going to be upgrading my secondary fuel filter setup on my truck (diesel) and it'll be my first time using push-lock fittings. Up until now I've use the barb and clamp.

I understand you just push them in all the way but I've never actually used them. Any tips for installing?

Thanks

 

[srmofo]

Theres thousands of different styles of these. Which style its it. Different manufacturers use diffetent styles across different styles

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Theres thousands of different styles of these. Which style its it. Different manufacturers use diffetent styles across different styles

Not certain what you mean by the style but the pieces I'll be using is some 3/8" ID Parker diesel fuel hose with (4) 90* 06FJIC x 3/8" PushLock (fittings purchased HERE). I might also use a 3/8" Fuel Pressure Tee.

 

[gorilla]

We used push on barbs for air lines where I used to work, they are very hard to install and you will never be able to remove the hose without cutting it. We stopped using them because they were a PIA. I think that their was a tool to install them but it.s been a long time ago. Curiosity prompts me to ask why you chose them?

 

[GirlnAgarage]

We used push on barbs for air lines where I used to work, they are very hard to install and you will never be able to remove the hose without cutting it. We stopped using them because they were a PIA. I think that their was a tool to install them but it.s been a long time ago. Curiosity prompts me to ask why you chose them?

Seems it is what the vendors for these items are going with. Right now the hardware on the secondary filter head is all barb but their newer versions are push-lock.

I haven't even looked at barbed hardware but you've prompted me to go ahead and do that before making a final decision. I already have the 3/8" Parker hose on the way but I can use either type fitting IIRC.

 

[metal tech]

If you use the fittings that you link'ed to from Vulcan Perf, you need to get some lubricant that will help the hose slide over the barbs. Most of the "push lock" hose that I've used will not just slide over the barbs, it doesn't have enough "flex/give". Another option is to warm the hose which allows it to flex easier enabling it to slide over the barbs. I have also used Parker and Aeroquip "push lock" style fittings & hose, good stuff assembly can be a bear.

 

[purplezr2]

Heat and lube works good, we used push lock when we built the diesel snowmobile as it was donated by FASS diesel.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Pushlock from Vulcan seems to be the easiest to find all together. Will likely order from them considering it simplifies two of the connections I have to make (at the CP3 and fuel can).

What kind of lube? Grease? Diesel?

 

[srmofo]

Not certain what you mean by the style but the pieces I'll be using is some 3/8" ID Parker diesel fuel hose with (4) 90* 06FJIC x 3/8" PushLock (fittings purchased HERE). I might also use a 3/8" Fuel Pressure Tee.

sorry, I thought you were talking about the quick connect style. Ive used the Parker AN stuff but its been a while. Yes we have a gun for those at work. its kind of a pain in the *** to setup but it does push them right in once everything is situated. I wouldnt want to be the poor sucker trying to do it by hand.

IIRC you can heat the tubing in hot water and make life a little easier, but Ive never done it that way.

 

[wallybob]

push-lok tool

We use this at work and it makes installing the fittings very easy.

 

[purplezr2]

Pushlock from Vulcan seems to be the easiest to find all together. Will likely order from them considering it simplifies two of the connections I have to make (at the CP3 and fuel can).

What kind of lube? Grease? Diesel?

Heat gun and some spray lube we had in the shop.

 

[rockchucker]

I use a set of Aluminum Jaws that go in my Vise. This holds the fittings so you can really put your back into it to slip the Hose onto the Barbed area.

I went away from using the Push-Lock Style and I know use Earls AN Fittings for most of my work.


Here is a pic of the Engine Bay of the car in my sig...

These are the Vise Inserts I use...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FCM3661/


The Push-Lock stuff works well but if you ever have to remove the Hose you have to cut it. In doing so you run the risk of damaging the Aluminum Fitting in the process. When you make knicks from a blade lengthways on the fitting you run the risk of potential future leaks and issues. I like the Stainless Steel Braided Fuel Hose and Earl's Fittings. They are not top of the line but then again you don't have to pay $30-$50 per specialized fitting as some of the industry leaders. The Earl's are about $10 a piece. The SSB Fuel Injection Hose is good for 250PSI with these Fittings and good for 1500PSI by itself. It is about $140 for 20 feet of the stuff.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

rockchucker, that's a real nice bay. You've definitely spent a lot of time on that. I haven't ever used AN fittings but I've always liked the way they clean up the things they're used on. I'll spend a little time looking at those. Thanks for the pic.

Just got to get to right hose. I'm a little paranoid about getting the wrong one.

 

[racingtadpole]

The fittings you linked to are compatible with just about any brand of decent quality fuel hose. Parker, Ryco, Earls, and Speed Flow (not sure if that last one is available in the US) will all fit and work. If you only have a couple to do its not worth spending the money on the fitting tool.
Doing it single handed may be a bit tricky. Some dishwashing detergent on the fitting and inside of the hose will help a lot, as will having the fitting held secure (the threads on JIC fittings are UNF if you want to put a bolt in the end to help hold it in a vice without crushing it).

AN and JIC are compatible too if thats of any interest to you.
http://www.speedflow.co.uk/tech/tech_pdfs/JIC_AN_explained.pdf

EDIT: Just had a better look at the link to those fittings.... I cant believe how cheap they are!!!

 

[GirlnAgarage]

The fittings you linked to are compatible with just about any brand of decent quality fuel hose. Parker, Ryco, Earls, and Speed Flow (not sure if that last one is available in the US) will all fit and work. If you only have a couple to do its not worth spending the money on the fitting tool.
Doing it single handed may be a bit tricky. Some dishwashing detergent on the fitting and inside of the hose will help a lot, as will having the fitting held secure (the threads on JIC fittings are UNF if you want to put a bolt in the end to help hold it in a vice without crushing it).

AN and JIC are compatible too if thats of any interest to you.
http://www.speedflow.co.uk/tech/tech_pdfs/JIC_AN_explained.pdf

EDIT: Just had a better look at the link to those fittings.... I cant believe how cheap they are!!!

Yeah going one handed will be a good trick. If DH is around I might have him do it if I'm really struggling. I have 4 connections to make so it's certainly not worth buying any kind of assembly machine. Like all my projects will have to get creative. All four connections will be 90* elbows.

Your comment about how cheap hey are, are you referring to the pushlock in the Vulcan link I provided? Last night I went over the AN fittings and hose some more and going the AN route is more expensive. I was looking at $16x4 per fitting and $33 for hose, not to mention a few smaller adapters and seals I still need. For the Pushlock route, I have $79 on my notes for a part total.

 

[racingtadpole]

The push lok stuff at Vulcan is a fraction of what I can buy it for here. The AN stuff is cheaper too but not enough to make me think about buying direct.
Personally I wouldnt bother with the AN stuff, it looks nice but its expensive and on a road car you dont really need the margin of extra reliability that it affords.
If I use Pushlock I normally use Ryco but thats only because its cheaper here.

 

[Twinturbocelica]

There are some hose assembly instructions here

http://www.buyspeedflow.com/how-to/

 

[MeentSS02]

My previous adventures with push-lock hose went pretty well - I used a heat gun to heat the hose (this was a must), and I also put a light oil (around a 20wt) on the aluminum barbs. If I was using them on something with a decent amount of pressure (like my fuel system which was at 58psi), I'd clamp the hose to the hose end with an Oetiker clamp (a.k.a. ear clamps, pinch clamps, etc.).

It ain't rocket science, but I would recommend a pressure testing kit to verify no leaks, especially if the lines will be transporting something flammable.

 

[gorilla]

I going to ask again why don't you want to use common hose barbs and hose clamps? The only reason they were used in industrial applications was to save the cost and space needed for clamps.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

I going to ask again why don't you want to use common hose barbs and hose clamps? The only reason they were used in industrial applications was to save the cost and space needed for clamps.

Where can I find them?

 

[sparky7]

AN fittings are pretty easy to make all you need is a vise setup and the mandrels. Although i have to say that i would be weary about making oil lines myself, it would always be in the back of my mind @5000rpm hahah. That said i have made a few AN brake lines for aircraft myself using new hose and old fittings, no way in hell i would make oil lines myself for any plane though.

 

[gorilla]

You should be able to get brass fittings at any industrial hardware store or at McMaster-Carr.com search brass barbed hose fittings.

 

[Jason Lister]

I've used Aeroquip's, Summit's, and Earl's fittings and hoses for push loks... They work great and fight the urge to use hose clamps with them... you wont need them. I had a faulty power steering system (another story) that had enough pressure to split Napa Gold spin on filters (~600 psi burst rating?) and never had a single fitting leak or pop off. That was using Aeroquip hose, which seems to be of better quality than any other that Ive tried....

Also, using braided lines in a diesel application you have to be very careful with your hose routing and mounting. It can act like a saw with the engine vibrations and actually cut through surrounding sheet metal, wiring, plastic, etc...

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Are JIC connections available with the clamp style hose barbs?

The reason is two of those 90* are going on an adapter (12mm metric to 6MJIC) coming out from a fuel canister and a CP3. It is those connections I'm having a hard time translating into the brass barb fittings. And why I'm not looking at them that much. Giving me a headache piecing things together

 

[racingtadpole]

Are JIC connections available with the clamp style hose barbs?

Not usually. Usually only comes in Pushlok or Screw fit.

A picture of the things youre trying to piece might help. Its probably possible to do it all in single piece brass barbs, no adaptors, but I'd need to see it.

 

[drive em]

Lube the barbed fitting with motor oil, lube the hose with the same. Clamp the fitting in a vise, and pull the hose to you all the way to the plastic piece on the fitting. I do these everyday, and it is pretty easy.

 

[Bullitt427]

Push-lok from Parker is just that. Push the hose onto the fitting to the yellow "stopper" and you're done. Rated to 300 psi.

No tools needed.

Josh

 

[metal tech]

If your concerned about the diesels vibration somehow loosening the hose connection from the barb, don't worry. I put an AirDog on my 01 Ram about 6 years ago using the pushlock hose. It hasn't moved at all. The only way for it to fail is overpressure like 250+psi, you have to cut the hose from the barb to remove it. If you attempt to add a hose clamp to pushlock hose it will cause the barbs to cut into the hose then it will become loose and fail. The aeroquip catalog has/had a "note" that said not to use any type clamps with the hose.

 

[BlindViper]

I going to ask again why don't you want to use common hose barbs and hose clamps? The only reason they were used in industrial applications was to save the cost and space needed for clamps.

They look like **** . Personally my diesel has push lock stuff. The 90 deg and 180 fittings are 200x better then anything in brass.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Bringing up a dead thread here because I need to get my **** in gear before I end up with a full blown fuel leak. (I got spare 5/16" hose (stock line size) long enough to bypass the aux filter in case of emergency on the road and I can get home.)


Seepage on the outlet side (and raunchy looking hose). This runs from the 2mic filter to the CP3.

The reason is two of those 90* are going on an adapter (12mm metric to 6MJIC) coming out from a fuel canister and a CP3. It is those connections I'm having a hard time translating into the brass barb fittings. And why I'm not looking at them that much. Giving me a headache piecing things together

Not usually. Usually only comes in Pushlok or Screw fit.

A picture of the things youre trying to piece might help. Its probably possible to do it all in single piece brass barbs, no adaptors, but I'd need to see it.

Here's what I'm working with:

Inlet to 2mic filter from stock can. If you look at the CP3, the banjo bolt on the left is what I'm having trouble figuring out (inlet). Also have the same fitting issue on the bottom of the stock fuel can (outlet)

 

[GirlnAgarage]

If your concerned about the diesels vibration somehow loosening the hose connection from the barb, don't worry. I put an AirDog on my 01 Ram about 6 years ago using the pushlock hose. It hasn't moved at all. The only way for it to fail is overpressure like 250+psi, you have to cut the hose from the barb to remove it. If you attempt to add a hose clamp to pushlock hose it will cause the barbs to cut into the hose then it will become loose and fail. The aeroquip catalog has/had a "note" that said not to use any type clamps with the hose.

Nah, not worried about the vibrations.

I appreciate the info on the fitting though. I didn't know that about no clamps until I read this. I knew they didn't need them, but didn't know clamps were a no no.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Just ordered the pushlock fittings, hose and pieces I need. Tired of screwing around with this, time to get it done. Will post pics after the install.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

These things are a pain in the @$$! But, no turning back now. Got an immobile truck dangling out of the garage

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Push-locks es el diablo! I never wanna use them again.

Truck is good.

 

[racingtadpole]

Did warn you they could be a right royal pain to fit

Donde esta el pollo?

OH and.....

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Did warn you they could be a right royal pain to fit

Donde esta el pollo?

OH and.....

Chotto matte kudasai

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Them being a PITA is exactly why I didn't want to use them in the first place. But finding what I needed in the regular barbs wasn't very fruitful, particularly for the CP3 and fuel canister fitting.

First thing, keep your traps shut about how the line isn't all the way to the plastic washer. I KNOW. I was the best I could do I'll cross that bridge when I get there. The pump is pushing 5-10 psi.

Ran the truck last night on a quick test drive and no leaks. This morning looks fine as well. Will keep eyes on it like I usually do.

 

[racingtadpole]

Chotto matte kudasai

Wakarimashita (but you better get a handle on that chicken before it gets outta control )

Them being a PITA is exactly why I didn't want to use them in the first place. But finding what I needed in the regular barbs wasn't very fruitful, particularly for the CP3 and fuel canister fitting.

First thing, keep your traps shut about how the line isn't all the way to the plastic washer. I KNOW. I was the best I could do I'll cross that bridge when I get there. The pump is pushing 5-10 psi.

Neat, put a tick in that box.
I wouldnt stress about the hoses not being up to the plastic, the fittings are good for somewhere around 200psi, you're not anywhere close to that and have all the ridges fully engaged.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

I forgot about the chicken!


Thanks tadpole. I nearly pooped a lung trying to get the hose over the final barbs. I figured I had to get it that far at least to have a chance.

 

[dozerbuilder01]

There are some hose assembly instructions here

http://www.buyspeedflow.com/how-to/

I tried applying 836-6 parker pushlok hose on to some parker barb fittings with a little bit of oil. No way. Couldn't even get one. So I resorted to google an found this thread with this link. Hot water and dish soap worked like a champ. Made it so much easier.