How does this toolbox drawer lock work?

[jives]

Picked up this Mac toolbox as part of an auction win a month ago, with the intent to fully refurbish and use. The drawers do not lock and the latching mechanisms in the inside back of the cabinet (see pic) do not slide up and down. The lever that is inside the top portion of the box, presumably is activated by opening and closing the lid, took a lot of work to move, which it now does. But, it does not raise or lower the drawer latching mechanism. The key lock does not look original, nor does it work. So, I guess my question is why the latches are not moving. There is some rust, and I've PB Blasted the heck out of it, but is there something inside the back of the box that I am missing?

 

[RTM]

There should be a mechanism traveling from the lock cylinder in front to the back of the box. This would be what activates the latch mechanism. Pics of that would be more helpful.

If there is nothing, can you see wherever it connects too? Pics of that, and being able to move it, would be good also.

 

[kbeefy]

There should be a mechanism traveling from the lock cylinder in front to the back of the box. This would be what activates the latch mechanism. Pics of that would be more helpful.

I think the lock only secures the lid, and the lid actuates a bellcrank that raises and lowers the latching bar at the back of the box.
At least thats how my boxes with lids work.

 

[kbeefy]

Picked up this Mac toolbox as part of an auction win a month ago, with the intent to fully refurbish and use. The drawers do not lock and the latching mechanisms in the inside back of the cabinet (see pic) do not slide up and down. The lever that is inside the top portion of the box, presumably is activated by opening and closing the lid, took a lot of work to move, which it now does. But, it does not raise or lower the drawer latching mechanism. The key lock does not look original, nor does it work. So, I guess my question is why the latches are not moving. There is some rust, and I've PB Blasted the heck out of it, but is there something inside the back of the box that I am missing?

What does the underside of the lid look like? Theres often just a rod that connects at the back that actuates the latch.

 

[RTM]

I think the lock only secures the lid, and the lid actuates a bellcrank that raises and lowers the latching bar at the back of the box.
At least thats how my boxes with lids work.

Guess RIF failed me today. I could not see the lid, assumed it was a case. Never minded that he said lid. Thanks.

But yes, I agree with your assertion.

RIF= reading is fundamental , founded in 1966, about the time I started reading.

 

[kbeefy]

Guess RIF failed me today. I could not see the lid, assumed it was a case. Never minded that he said lid. Thanks.

haha... yeah I missed the lid as well. Reading words saved the day!

 

[whateg01]

Does the bar not move up and down when the lid closes? How is it attached to the lid? Is it even attached to the lid? Pics of the lid?

 

[jives]

Here is the drawer mechanism that lifts the locking latches. First pic is the lever that *should* move with the opening and closing of the lid, but I don't see how that would work. The next pics show the lever mechanism after removing the cover, exposing the latching bar. The latching bar (bars, one on the left and one on the right) should apparently lift up but this one is rusted/bent/grimed into place. It is now soaking in PB Blaster.

BTW, you can see where I removed stickers from the lid, and sticker residue in the tray. And while I am at it, on the underside of the lid are two slots for tools. On the left side of the lid underside is a narrow slit for something, and on the right is a spot welded-on bracket. Any idea what tools were meant for these spots?

 

[JSutter]

123

 

[LXCam]

You’ll have the mechanics right and maybe I’m crazy but it looks to me like there’s a small tack weld on the drawer lock bar. Am I seeing that correctly?

 

[whateg01]

The horizontal bar with the lever sticking up should move left and right. That bar has angled tabs that the 2 vertical bars ride on. The angled tabs move the vertical bars up and down to grab the back of each drawer.

The key lock is for the lid only.

Do the angled tabs lift the lock bars or push them down? Seems to me they lift them to unlock and gravity should drop them, right?

 

[RTM]

The latching bar (bars, one on the left and one on the right) should apparently lift up but this one is rusted/bent/grimed into place.

Yeah, you can see in your last pic in the first post that it’s rusted on the bottom, is the top rusty too?

In the second pic here, does the inset slider move, or is is rusted also. Looks like it’s missing a pin for it to slide on in the right hand slot.

You may want to fix the bends around the slot in the first pic.

 

[Jbullfrog]

The tumbler lock can lock up or down. Up locks the lid and down locks the center drawer for security while the box is open. The rear slide bars rely on gravity to lock the drawers and the cross sliding mechanism raises them to release. Mac should be able to get you a key from the lock number.

 

[jives]

I'll have to check out some of the observations and comments a bit later. Right now we are in the middle of a sleet/snow storm with a strong wind, and I need to triple check the tractor/plow set-up. Plus, the unheated garage is, well, unheated and about 25 deg.

 

[FJ 432]

You have a hell of a project, restoring that.

 

[jives]

You have a hell of a project, restoring that.

Perhaps, but here is the thing. . . drawers all slide smooth, only one drawer pull has some bend, and I don't really need the drawer locks. The interior rust really is only surface (at least what I can see), and a good cleaning, sanding, and primer should take care of it. Perhaps some Evaporust in the corners or some rust converter. The auction win was a bit of a gamble, an the box was more of a bonus. The auction description said drill bits and more filled the box, which was overflowing. For $35 why not? I ended up getting a 3/8th S-K ratchet that works amazingly more smooth than my current Husky, two 1/4" Pittsburgh ratchets (I had actually lost my Husky 1/4"), and I estimate about $200 worth of quality and sharp drill bits (mostly Norseman). A DMM and misc other tools rounded out the lot.

Most all of my mechanics tools fill up a vintage refurbished Snap-on box and a refurbished Blackhawk (New Britain) box. The Snappy box is really a machinist's box and the drawers too shallow to hold much. The Mac box should replace the Snap on, and be placed on a mobile tool cart with the Blackhawk and a small compressor. I got a plan. . .

 

[FJ 432]

Perhaps, but here is the thing. . . drawers all slide smooth, only one drawer pull has some bend, and I don't really need the drawer locks. The interior rust really is only surface (at least what I can see), and a good cleaning, sanding, and primer should take care of it. Perhaps some Evaporust in the corners or some rust converter. The auction win was a bit of a gamble, an the box was more of a bonus. The auction description said drill bits and more filled the box, which was overflowing. For $35 why not? I ended up getting a 3/8th S-K ratchet that works amazingly more smooth than my current Husky, two 1/4" Pittsburgh ratchets (I had actually lost my Husky 1/4"), and I estimate about $200 worth of quality and sharp drill bits (mostly Norseman). A DMM and misc other tools rounded out the lot.

Most all of my mechanics tools fill up a vintage refurbished Snap-on box and a refurbished Blackhawk (New Britain) box. The Snappy box is really a machinist's box and the drawers too shallow to hold much. The Mac box should replace the Snap on, and be placed on a mobile tool cart with the Blackhawk and a small compressor. I got a plan. . .

Having restored a number of boxes I applaud your efforts. It's great to hear that the slides are good. Buying a box with bad slides was the number one killer of momentum on past box restores for me. They're hard to straighten.

I have a matching 1957 bottom roller to your cabinet. Good Luck.