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How extract broken bolts?

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sanddan

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 7, 2005
Messages
708
Location
Oregon
I would try a left handed drill bit. They usually work better than the typical extractor like easyout (which isn't).
 

frankt

New member
Joined
Dec 11, 2011
Messages
2
Location
Odessa , Fl
I can't really tell from the pict , how close to the surface it is broken off , but a little trick I have done several times is , select a nut same size as the broken bolt , set it on the head , centered exactly over the bolt , take a 1/16 welding rod with the proper amp setting , put the rod straight into the broken bolt and weld it to the nut { disconnect battery lead first , to protect the alternator and computer if it has one } if it breaks off the first attempt , try it again , allow it to cool for a few seconds , gently put a socket on the nut and rock it slightly , { loose to tight } it it is very free , just back it out , this requires a good steady welding hand , trust me it does work well , Frank
 

blacK20

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 19, 2011
Messages
652
I agree a mig is definitely the best way to get that out. But chances are if he's asking for help, then I have a feeling that he doesn't have a welder. In that case some left hand drills and a steady hand is your best bet.
 

holdover

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 15, 2011
Messages
750
Location
VA
if you do not have a welder I have had great luck using a torx bit, I drill a hole a bit undersize, drive the bit in and they usually come out. I also soak well with kroll before trying. The torx bit works so well I haven't used an easyout for years
 
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Jack Burton

Well-known member
Joined
May 22, 2009
Messages
105
Over the years, I've tried a lot of things including welding on a new bolt, which works in the right situation (when you have room).

In your situation, I'd ***** punch the center of the stud, center punch, and then drill a hole about a 1/4" deep still leaving some decent meat around the circumference (you don't want the shaft to mushroom when you wack it). Then some penetrating oil.

1st: I'd try a tapered sheet metal reamer in the new hole, giving it a couple light blows while turning it counterclockwise.

2nd: I'd try a manual impact driver with a nice sharp phillips bit. These things are excellent.

3rd: I'd hold a propane torch on the stud for 2 minutes and wack it again with the manual impact.

I'm not a big fan of the lisle easy outs because most people end up having to hit them too hard, expanding the threads creating another problem.

Be patient and those sheared bolts will come free without a lot of $ and you won't have to **** around with helicoils.
 

sberry

Banned
Joined
Jun 18, 2005
Messages
35,747
Location
Brethren, Michigan
Its a rare day I use an extractor, at time do drill them out, but 99% are welded.
 

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rlitman

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 18, 2010
Messages
24,596
Location
Long Island
Its a rare day I use an extractor, at time do drill them out, but 99% are welded.

I've had pretty good luck with extractors, but they won't remove a broken tap, like in your picture. In those cases, I've actually been lucky enough to be able to burn out the tap entirely each time with an o/a welding tip. You set up an oxidizing flame, and put the heat right on the tap until it's getting yellow. Then slowly open up the oxygen, and watch it disappear in a shower of sparks.
 
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