How much compressor do I need?

[99LeCouch]

My wife is going to buy me a compressor sometime this year. Our budget is $500 or less for the compressor and tools. My use is light DIY most of the time, such as running an impact to put on tires or occasional sandblasting. The one time of year it would get used for an extended period would be in the early fall when the cars get their yearly coating of Fluid Film. Even that would not be continuous spraying for more than a minute or so.

Before anybody goes and starts suggesting 60 gallon 220v Craigslist monsters, I'm limited to 120v for the next few years since the electrical panel is full.

Suggestions within my constraints of $500 and 120v?

 

[ibedayank]

sansblasting is going to take 12cfm and 120 volts is not gonna cut it
as far as running an impact it depends how long per burst you want to run it befor the motor kicks back on. I have a 20 gallon tank compressor and can undo the lugs on a 1ton per tire before the motor kicks on... now running my air diegrinder not so good.
that is with the $189 21gallon compressor from horrible Fright

 

[fury9]

Do your research and find a good used one 60gal or more 220v

 

[JCByrd24]

It doesn't matter how much compressor you need if you are limited to 120v. If you NEED more you could learn how to wire a subpanel and put in a 220v circuit, but likely DIY you are over budget with subpanel/wiring/compressor. So just go get a 30 gallon, cast iron, oil compressor model, the one with the most parts made in the USA would be what I would do, unless those parts look like junk, then just get whatever looks best to you. It will serve you well for years and you will be able to sandblast for however long it will let you.

 

[Shadowdog500]

how much sand blasting are you going to do? I got by with a 25gallon 2.5 HP crafstman compressor for decades. It will run an impact, air ratchet, etc, I even bought a HF HVLP detail gun, which it ran fine. Once I got a blast cabinet that suddenly wasn't rnough compressor. I could blast for a minute, then wait a minute to recover, but unless you are only doing a small amount of sand blasting, that gets old real quick. I eventually bought a $900 IR 220V 5 HP single stage 60 gallon compressor. It runs everything I can throw at it, and I even use it to blow out my sprinkler system in the fall.

If you really plan to do sand blasting, painting, DA sanding. You need to spend around twice your $500 budget and you will need 220v. If not, you can get by with a small one like I did for decades. Just make sure you get one with oil, those oil less ones are loud as hell.

When you get your impact wrench get the HF 1/2" Earthquake. It is under $100 and is as good as any gun 3x the price.

Chris

 

[99LeCouch]

I could blast for a minute, then wait a minute to recover, but unless you are only doing a small amount of sand blasting, that gets old real quick.
Chris

Blasting something for a minute at a time is about what I'd realistically need. Touching up rust spots on equipment or the like.

Sounds like I'd be okay with a 20-30 gallon machine for right now, and plan on upgrading to a 60 gallon 220v compressor if/when I outgrow the smaller one.

 

[klwolff]

I have a 60 gallon 220 Puma from Northern that is a great machine, and they can be had for $450 new with coupon.

Also, you can easily add a 220 circuit to your panel with slim breakers, one 220 slim takes up the same room as one regular 110 breaker. Super easy to do


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[Shadowdog500]

I have a 60 gallon 220 Puma from Northern that is a great machine, and they can be had for $450 new with coupon.

Also, you can easily add a 220 circuit to your panel with slim breakers, one 220 slim takes up the same room as one regular 110 breaker. Super easy to do


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If you budget is a firm $500 and you can get 220v to it, the one he suggested looks like a decent compramise. It's on sale right now for $429. It gets all good reviews as well.
Here is the link. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200455341_200455341

Chris

 

[klwolff]

There you go, $430 is a great deal. Depending on how far away your panel is, wiring it could be as cheap as $40


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[Askme42]

Why spend the money twice?

Save until you have the money for a big enough unti or spend your budget on some nice battery powered tools.

 

[creativecars]

It's not so much hp or volts that determines how much air a compressor puts out. It's the compressor pump. You want to find the highest CFM your budget will allow. Having only 120v will limit what you can find. Air tools are only usable at 90psi or above so the 40psi ratings are worthless. A two stage pump is almost two times efficient as a single stage pump, regardless of hp size. Same electric use, twice the air.

 

[Shadowdog500]

DARN!!!

I just looked at the OP's location. Assuming he is in Horse Heads NY(which is about the center of the southern tier) it would be a 6 hour drive each way to the nearest northern tools store. To get the compressor shipped to horse heads is $205. the added costs would price it about the same as a 4 or 5 hp compressor.


If you can run 220v this $499 this one at lowes gets good reviews. Unless you plan to do serious blasting (for a home user) you may never outgrow it.http://www.lowes.com/pd_54284-1126-...L=?Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=

It also gets good reviews.

The air tools are relatively inexpensive and can be bought one at a time as needed later.


Chris

 

[Adam.C]

I don't understand the need for 220V. Maybe someone here can set me straight. I've had a 20gallon craftsman for many many years. I can easily remove all of my wheels using the tank alone. I try to maintain 80psi in the line and usually start with 120psi in the tank.

Seems to me, if you need air for continuous operating tools- die grinders, sprayers, blasters, you need a certain CFM and pressure output. I have learned that high quality air tools can produce good power with less CFM.

I guess my approach would be to size the system for whatever sprayer you have. If you only need to fill tires, run an impact gun, air nailer, get a pancake compressor for cheap. If you find you have to wait for the compressor, stick a 5 gallon air pig in the line and fill that up. Before battery impacts, I ran my air impact off a 5 gallon pig. Easily get a couple wheels off with that.

 

[creativecars]

I don't understand the need for 220V. Maybe someone here can set me straight. I've had a 20gallon craftsman for many many years. I can easily remove all of my wheels using the tank alone. I try to maintain 80psi in the line and usually start with 120psi in the tank.

Seems to me, if you need air for continuous operating tools- die grinders, sprayers, blasters, you need a certain CFM and pressure output. I have learned that high quality air tools can produce good power with less CFM.

I guess my approach would be to size the system for whatever sprayer you have. If you only need to fill tires, run an impact gun, air nailer, get a pancake compressor for cheap. If you find you have to wait for the compressor, stick a 5 gallon air pig in the line and fill that up. Before battery impacts, I ran my air impact off a 5 gallon pig. Easily get a couple wheels off with that.

Adam, You are correct, for you. The 120 psi drops to 80 and you can go to the next wheel etc...
But if/ when you want to use continuous use tools, sanders, grinders, blasters etc... you will need to have more air (volume and psi).
The problem comes from continuous use. The smaller compressors will not keep up and you will work them to death trying. If you are in the middle of a paint job you don't have time to wait around for the pressure to build up to continue... you just ruined your chance at a nice finish.

It also depends on what you are working on. Sure I can remove all 16 lug nuts on a 4 lug Honda with 80 psi, but my 75 Ford 3/4... no way.

 

[Elginz]

You have to learn how to work "the budget". Just remember almost every job NEEDS a new tool to do it properly.

That said, I have the DeWalt D55168, 15 gallon, 200psi, 5.4cfm@90psi, 15 amp. for a couple of years now. Not to loud. I think they are around $360 but not sure. That would give you some room for tools.

 

[FloydShine]

You can't afford a compressor and tools, that will accomplish the tasks you listed. Save your money and do your homework.

 

[creativecars]

I have two compressors. I call on one for tools and one for toys.
My craftsman 3 hp with 20 gal tank will work for toys... I can inflate tires, blow up kids toys change a tire and many other small task that take less than say 15 minutes.
But if I am going to get some WORK done I go to the shop with 220, 5hp 2 stage 80 gal. tank.

I would never get any real work done waiting on the craftsman to sand with a DA.

Different tools for different task.

 

[rlitman]

Blasting something for a minute at a time is about what I'd realistically need. Touching up rust spots on equipment or the like.

Learn to use a wire wheel in an angle grinder. Wear a face shield, and get used to pulling wires out of exposed skin.

A 120V compressor is not up to this task.

 

[Greeny]

I've had a HF 21 gallon, 110v for a couple years. Runs impact for lug nuts just fine, runs blast cabinet for small parts just fine. I've blasted rims before, just takes patience. Blast for a minute, wait for a minute. Use Black Diamond media, it'll get the job done. Also pushes HF HVLP sprayer just fine.

It won't work for any real pneumatic tools. Sanders, grinders, etc I have to rely on electric.

 

[Major Ramifications]

It's not so much hp or volts that determines how much air a compressor puts out. It's the compressor pump. You want to find the highest CFM your budget will allow. Having only 120v will limit what you can find. Air tools are only usable at 90psi or above so the 40psi ratings are worthless. A two stage pump is almost two times efficient as a single stage pump, regardless of hp size. Same electric use, twice the air.

Not true. Where do you think the energy comes from to compress that second stage?

While it is true that you can blast with a better 120V unit using small nozzles, changing them often and having patience, it's just too easy to add a 220V circuit.

If you must have a 120V unit, this is the best one I know of:
http://www.dewalt.com/tools/compressors-wheeled-portable---electric-d55168.aspx

 

[theoldwizard1]

I got by with a 25 gallon 2.5 HP crafstman compressor for decades. ... Once I got a blast cabinet that suddenly wasn't enough compressor. I could blast for a minute, then wait a minute to recover, but unless you are only doing a small amount of sand blasting, that gets old real quick.

Hit the nail on the head !

 

[Spudland_Dave]

I've got the 60gal Puma pictured.. Nice Compressor, I've had no problems, its also fairly low RPM, and doesn't make all that much noise which is a bonus.

I am considering selling it, but only to get a Horizontal tank compressor...I've got my compressor under my stairwell so having it low and easy to tuck under there is more important to me then foot print.

 

[creativecars]

Not true. Where do you think the energy comes from to compress that second stage?

While it is true that you can blast with a better 120V unit using small nozzles, changing them often and having patience, it's just too easy to add a 220V circuit.

If you must have a 120V unit, this is the best one I know of:
http://www.dewalt.com/tools/compressors-wheeled-portable---electric-d55168.aspx

True life... The power comes from the same place as is does for a single stage compressor.

 

[Scimmia]

True life... The power comes from the same place as is does for a single stage compressor.

"True life"... All of the power comes from the motor. Upgrading the pump is stupid if the motor can't handle it.

How, exactly, is a 2 stage pump twice as efficient as a single stage pump? I could see there being a slight gain, but 100% seems off the charts to me.

 

[creativecars]

"True life"... All of the power comes from the motor. Upgrading the pump is stupid if the motor can't handle it.

Correct. But the op was not upgrading a pump.

If shopping for a compressor choose CFM over hp. IE.. A 5 hp motor turning a good two stage pump will produce more air than the same motor on a single stage pump.

 

[creativecars]

"True life"... All of the power comes from the motor. Upgrading the pump is stupid if the motor can't handle it.

How, exactly, is a 2 stage pump twice as efficient as a single stage pump? I'm sure there's a slight gain, but 100% seems off the charts to me.

It is not 100% more efficient... but it seems like it when you are standing around waiting for enough air to get back to work.
A two stage pump uses one piston to pump a volume of air and the second stage piston pushes up the pressure. Also many cheaper copies have been made from single stage pumps, not many cheaper designed two stage pumps have been copied. Two piston is not the same as two stage.

 

[Scimmia]

It is not 100% more efficient... but it seems like it when you are standing around waiting for enough air to get back to work.
A two stage pump uses one piston to pump a volume of air and the second stage piston pushes up the pressure. Also many cheaper copies have been made from single stage pumps, not many cheaper designed two stage pumps have been copied. Two piston is not the same as two stage.

I was responding to this statement:

A two stage pump is almost two times efficient as a single stage pump, regardless of hp size. Same electric use, twice the air.

Are you now backing off of that? As I said, I could see a slight increase in efficiency, but I doubt it's that noticeable.

 

[EarniesGarage]

My wife is going to buy me a compressor sometime this year. Our budget is $500 or less for the compressor and tools. My use is light DIY most of the time, such as running an impact to put on tires or occasional sandblasting. The one time of year it would get used for an extended period would be in the early fall when the cars get their yearly coating of Fluid Film. Even that would not be continuous spraying for more than a minute or so.

Before anybody goes and starts suggesting 60 gallon 220v Craigslist monsters, I'm limited to 120v for the next few years since the electrical panel is full.

Suggestions within my constraints of $500 and 120v?

I went ahead and bit the bullet up front. I hate buying a unit twice just to upgrade and maybe be unhappy until I get the larger unit. I have yet to finish up the compressor room (I didn't want that noise in my shop) and haven't yet decided which type of air line I will be using, (NO PVC!!!!) it is to dangerous.

If there is any way you could find a friend or an electricians helper, they might be able to help you with the electrical issue you will be much happier the first time around.

Just remember, the larger the tank, the more air you have before the compressor comes on. The larger the compressor, the quicker it can build the pressure back up and the better it will hold the pressure up while you are using the air out of the tank.

Here is a link to the unit I purchased, it is on a 40A barker and works fine: http://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/Ingersoll-Rand-2475N7.5-FP-Air-Compressor/p769.html

I wish you luck!

 

[creativecars]

I was responding to this statement:


Are you now backing off of that? As I said, I could see a slight increase in efficiency, but I doubt it's that noticeable.

Actually it is that noticeable.

5.5 CFM @ 90 psi from this cheaper single stage compressor, but still with a 5 hp motor.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Campbell...ir-Compressor-VT6290/203002182#specifications


Compared to 12.6 CFM @90 psi here.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-80-gal-5-HP-2-Stage-Air-Compressor-HS5181/100005910

My main point is... don't let some salesman tell you all 5 hp compressors are the same.

 

[ibedayank]

Actually it is that noticeable.

5.5 CFM @ 90 psi from this cheaper single stage compressor, but still with a 5 hp motor.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Campbell...ir-Compressor-VT6290/203002182#specifications


then why do the specs say.. Horsepower (hp) 2 ????

Compared to 12.6 CFM @90 psi here.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-80-gal-5-HP-2-Stage-Air-Compressor-HS5181/100005910

My main point is... don't let some salesman tell you all 5 hp compressors are the same.

you seem to be missing 3hp

 

[creativecars]

you seem to be missing 3hp

I see what you are seeing. Their info states 5.
This came up with a fast google search



Model # VT6290

Internet # 203002182
Power up pneumatic nailers, impact wrenches, ratchets and more with this beefy air compressor from Campbell Hausfeld. Wired for easy hookup to standard household current, this 20 gal. air compressor delivers enough air power to tackle all nailing jobs and works with most moderate air-tool applications. The unit's 20 gal. horizontal tank rolls smoothly on two large wheels for easy transport, so you can move from site to site smoothly without picking it up. A twin cylinder, oil-lubricated engine offers 5 horsepower at peak output. A cast-iron, single-stage pump lets this compressor run more quietly than most compressors in its class, so running the thing close to the jobsite doesn't mean you have to wear earplugs. The cast iron design and oil lubrication also provides up to 5,000 hours of overall runtime. The unit operates on 120-Volt household current. And, a fully enclosed belt guard and cooling fan keep the engine from overheating for optimal performance on extended jobs. Made in the US, the purchase is covered by a manufacturer 3-year warranty.

 

[Scimmia]

You highlighted the wrong part. 5 horsepower at peak output is meanless and totally different than the other motor rated at actual horsepower.

 

[99LeCouch]

220V is out of the question for me at the moment. I don't have the room in the panel since the builder sized it "just big enough" for what a 25 year old house would need electrically. There were two open slots, and one of those got used for a dedicated freezer circuit. Upgrading the service would be thousands of dollars since we'd need a new panel and the feed from the grid is underground. In other words, it's 120v or bust.

I'm already fairly comfortable using a grinding wheel on an angle grinder for open, flat surfaces. All I'd need a sandblaster for is touching up areas that couldn't be accessed with the angle grinder.

Home Depot's Husky 30 gallon oil-lubed compressor seems to be an okay unit once it's sorted out: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-30-gal-Ultra-Quiet-Portable-Electric-Air-Compressor-C301H/203187352 Thoughts?

 

[GuyllFyre]

There's a reason behind the 120V/240V issue.
It's called HP.
At 120V, 20A, you should be able to get about 1.5HP realistically.
This is where 120VAC "tops out".
Now, a compressor requires a certain amount of HP to run.
If you need a certain CFM, then you need the compressor to provide it.
At 240V, 20A, you should get 3HP. This scales up since 240VAC can go up to 60A without too much issue (my damned stove requires close to that), so you can get more HP out of 240VAC.
Figure at 240VAC, 40A, you should be able to get 5HP without issue.

My little 1978 Montgomery Ward compressor may not be much but wired for 240VAC, it allows the the lights to not flicker in the garage when running and provides me with adequate air supply for my needs.

 

[Fugio]

Compressors are a lot like gun safes. Figure out how big you need, then get one way bigger. You ALWAYS need more than you think you need.

 

[83c10submariner]

HEY GUYS STOP HIGHJACKING threads.
99 is looking for a good 120v compressor for his application.
Yes the husky one you posted seems to be pretty good and in your budget. But look around for a 30gal compressors That will do a little higher psi which means when your running something at 90 psi it will be a little longer before compressor cuts in again. But also means will run longer before it cuts out. I know the dewalt compressors run at a higher psi but I don't know if they make a 30gal. The bigger the vol the better. Check this one out http://m.sears.com/craftsman-33-gallon-vertical-air-compressor/p-00916572000P

 

[eddiemeddiem]

To answer the OPs question directly: I had a 30 gal 120v Kobalt ($400) for several years that ran a HF earthquake impact without issue. I did use it to sandblast sometimes, but it ran nonstop and I'd have to stop ever 15-20 mins to hive it a break (and myself from wearing the respirator).

But to preach like several others have, I really suggest a 220v compressor. Kobalt has one for $500, and has about 2.5x the 120v cfm. For only $100 more it's a much better deal. Of course, you have to wire in a 220v outlet, or get a buddy to... Not trivial, and probably ~$50 in additional cost just for the hardware.

If you can swing the 220v, go for it. If not, you'll be happy with the 30 gal Kobalt for 95% of what you want to do.


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[99LeCouch]

I'll check out that Husky and see if it is an otherwise quality unit. If it will do 95% of what I want, that's fine. 95% of something is better than 100% of nothing, which is what pursuing a 220v compressor would get me.

I'm really stuck with 120v due to my electrical panel and underground service being $$$$ to upgrade.

 

[creativecars]

99,
There are currently several other compressor discussions going on at this time. You could check them out.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=282265&highlight=creativecars

 

[klwolff]

I'll check out that Husky and see if it is an otherwise quality unit. If it will do 95% of what I want, that's fine. 95% of something is better than 100% of nothing, which is what pursuing a 220v compressor would get me.

I'm really stuck with 120v due to my electrical panel and underground service being $$$$ to upgrade.

As I already replied, by using slim breakers you can easily add a 220 circuit to your full breaker panel at a cost of about $11 for a 40A breaker, and a few bucks for some slim 110 15A breakers to make the room for the 220. I have done it multiple times, it is very simple. It is certainly easier to just grab a 110 compressor and plug it in, but you will probably be happier with a beefier 220 unit and it can be done with your budget. Also consider that many quality 110 compressors will not run on a 15 amp circuit, which your garage probably has. So, at that point you are running a 20 amp 110v circuit anyways, may as well run 220!


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