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How much under the slab?

jklingel

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I've been reading wherever I can, and have no answers as yet. I've read the engineers not wanting to use blue foam (here) under a slab, and understand their concerns, but I am using it anyway. I've read about the "SlabStuff" (various makes of thin, flexible stuff) and am not sold on it yet. We all do "foam" up here, and it seems to work. Seems to, anyway. Question: Has anyone used more than 2" blue foam? I've run my heat loss calcs, and that slab is a killer with only 2" of foam under it. Is there any structural reason to NOT use 4"? Sure, I'll get twice the compression, but I am hoping that tends to happen before the mud dries.... hoping. Any experience w/ 4"? Thanks. j BTW: Radiant floor heat.
 
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PAToyota

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Depends on what you mean by "blue foam" - DOW styrofoam is blue, an extruded polystyrene - a closed cell foam. That is what you want. Closed cell won't absorb moisture. Expanded polystyrene does absorb moisture and is not something you want to use under a slab.
 

brad d

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I have 6 piles in the middle of my floor and its keyed into a grade beam (35X40)... So I can use as much as I want... But with a slab on grade I would not want to use over 2" and I would use lots of rebar so it will not shift.
 
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jklingel

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PAToy: Yes, the blue foam we use is extruded. It does absorb water, though, if allowed to have snow/ice on it and go through a few freeze/thaw cycles, as sometimes happens in leaky roofs. Under a slab that won’t be a problem, if one ensures that surface water runs away from the house. Bradd: That idea of a grade beam has surfaced before. That may be a solution. What is your reason for not wanting more than 2”? Compression? Thanks. j
 

Franz©

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In Ak 2" -v- 4" under the floor may not be a benefit argument, but a proper frost apron is definitely going to yield benefits.
 

brad d

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I just dont think it could be strong enough without piles. Is cant be as good for compression as compacted lime stone...


Im no pro, so I dont know what would be the max.. I just know some places dont like to install it under slabs.. so I have to ask "what problems have they had"

I think im going to go with 3" myself... if not more, I have a line on some used 3" dow SM.. perfect for under slabs.
 
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jklingel

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Yes, an insulation apron is a must where a slab is exposed to the air. I just spoke w/ Rich at the U of A Coop Ext. He has his nose in this stuff a lot, and has for years. His opinion is "go 4 inches". He also thought my double wall (2x6 outer wall, 4-6" R-tech stacked, then an inner 2x4 wall) was not "off the wall". Sure, large expense now, but what will oil be in 10 yrs? Too, if i don't put the money into a house, I'll be tempted to put it into a boat! (BOAT = bring out another thousand). Thanks again for inputs. john
 

brad d

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Yeah around the slab is a big deal, but you must protect it from water some what.

I would call some one at DOW they have some good info on there page...

This used stuff is 1$ per sq.ft so it would cost me 1300$ for 3" or 2600$ for 6".. (I would never go that thick if I did not have piles) But will I see the payback ever of that extra 3"??

the walls are 2x6 with 1.5" SM on the outside and it has 3 8x9' R16 doors...
 

Ezzie

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What about exterior door cutouts? Very common in agricultural buildings around this neck of the woods. They are structurally strong, cheap (waste product) and you could stack them 2 high (1 5/8" ea.). That is what my contractor suggested we use under my slab and this is what it looks like before pouring the slab. The other advantage is you can fasten the PEX to the door cutouts with nylon clamps and self-tapping screws to save cost on using a mesh.

Picture016.jpg
 
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jklingel

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Ezzie: Good article. I don't think we have much in the way of cut-outs up here, but I will check. Blue foam, we have. That article kind of confirms my suspicions about the "new" under-slab stuff (bubbles, anyway). The UAF president's house used 4" of Ext Poly, and I was told that the floor circuit in that slab rarely turns on.
 

Franz©

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Yes, an insulation apron is a must where a slab is exposed to the air. I just spoke w/ Rich at the U of A Coop Ext. He has his nose in this stuff a lot, and has for years. His opinion is "go 4 inches". He also thought my double wall (2x6 outer wall, 4-6" R-tech stacked, then an inner 2x4 wall) was not "off the wall". Sure, large expense now, but what will oil be in 10 yrs? Too, if i don't put the money into a house, I'll be tempted to put it into a boat! (BOAT = bring out another thousand). Thanks again for inputs. john

The apron system must have 2" foam going down from the slab into the ground to a depth of 3 feet, and a horizontal foam board extending out from the bottom 3 feet. Frost starts at the ground level and works down from there. I know I posted this information not long ago on here.
Just insulating below the slab and above ground will not stop cold infiltration below the slab, and since insulation only retards the flow of heat given the length of the Ak heating season, failing to have a heat island under any structure can only result in more heating cost over time.
 
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jklingel

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I've been out of state for a while. I will surely insulate under the slab heavily, then down AND out a few feet around the footer walls and footers. Thanks for the input, y'all. j
 
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jklingel

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Vette: Interesting article. Thanks. Now, from your name a gather you have a '72 vette w/ a 454 in it; I am a pretty crafty guy to figure that out... I never did see how they packed all that engine in there. How often do you replace rear tires?
 

chevelle64

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The engine fit is really not that bad, changing plugs and general "stuff" isn't too difficult. I was actually able to remove the oil pan without lifting the engine at all. As far as tires, I go through WAY more gas than tires.
 

rodnok1

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What about exterior door cutouts? Very common in agricultural buildings around this neck of the woods. They are structurally strong, cheap (waste product) and you could stack them 2 high (1 5/8" ea.). That is what my contractor suggested we use under my slab and this is what it looks like before pouring the slab. The other advantage is you can fasten the PEX to the door cutouts with nylon clamps and self-tapping screws to save cost on using a mesh.

Picture016.jpg

That is awesome, I wonder what the R value of something like that is, it would be neat to use in the walls maybe.
 
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jklingel

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An R-value of 8/inch is pretty spectacular. I wonder what kind of foam they use in there. Anyone know?
 
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FarmerSid

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What about exterior door cutouts? Very common in agricultural buildings around this neck of the woods. They are structurally strong, cheap (waste product) and you could stack them 2 high (1 5/8" ea.). That is what my contractor suggested we use under my slab and this is what it looks like before pouring the slab. The other advantage is you can fasten the PEX to the door cutouts with nylon clamps and self-tapping screws to save cost on using a mesh.

Picture016.jpg


That is EXACTLY what I used.! Not only do these door cutout's have the same or better R value, they are more rigid. I found that since they are more rigid, my floor never cracked. It's been poured for over a year now and no cracks anywhere. Another HUGE benefit is the price. My shop is 36X40 and it cost me $340 to do the entire floor and foundation walls as compared to $2000 for 2" SM. Hard decision to make eh? A buddy insulated under his floor with 3" SM he got from a local demolition contractor. The sheets where 3X5 and it cost him $4.00 a sheet. Make some calls and ask around. I am VERY glad I went this route.

Cheers!

Sid
 

new barn

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Anyone know if those door cutouts are available in New England, specifically Rhode Island? Or are they a Great White North only item?:headscrat

Jim
 

custom1

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Hi all, new member here. Great forum.
I am in the process of building a new detached garage. 28x36 12'ceiling.
Went 4' up with block, 8' on top with 2x6 wood.
I am getting ready to do the cement work. Going to put in radiant tubes.
I am very interested in the door cutouts for insulation, does anyone know of a source for them in the Pa area?

I have some pics on 35mm i will have to scan in and post if i can figure it out.
Thanks John
 

custom1

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Hi Will, I see you are near pittsburgh, I'm near Greensburg.
I want to find some kind of cheap insulation for under slab.
I found some firestone iso-95- but the specs say it only has 20psi rating.
Does anyone know if that would work under a 5" slab.

John
 
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wmonroe

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John, I live in Irwin very close to Norwin high school. You might trying calling Shusters. They handle a lot of doors and might have the cutouts. They are on Clay Pike Road near Irwin.
Will
 

custom1

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I had not thought of Shusters. I will call them monday. Home D said they have pink 2" sheets for 18.00, but I didnt ask the psi of it. Ill have to stop in there and check it out. Thanks for the tip Will. What are you heating your slab with?
John
 

wmonroe

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North Huntingdon township wouldn't let me run gas to the garage so I am heating with an electric hot water tank. It is working ok so far, but will probably try a electric tankless heater next winter.
Will
 

5wndwcpe

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I had not thought of Shusters. I will call them monday. Home D said they have pink 2" sheets for 18.00, but I didnt ask the psi of it. Ill have to stop in there and check it out. Thanks for the tip Will. What are you heating your slab with?
John


Those bastards quoted me $21.00 ea. :mad: On 48 sheets no less.:mad::mad:
 

custom1

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Don't get too upset yet. Like I said , I don't know if its the right stuff, I have to stop in there and see if its the 25psi.
Even $21 is not that bad- lowes wants $30!!!
John
 

custom1

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Will, I called Shusters, they dont make the doors there, they only hang them in jambs and resell. Doors come from Mi and Il somewhere. Need to find a manufacturer close to home.
Do you know how much your electric bill is for the garage heat? I was going to do mine with an electric tank also, and I see numbers and guesstamites all over the map. A guy at a local heating place said my bill would probably only go up about 20-30 bucks, and I have seen some threads on here where they say that the tank won't ever shut off when its cold out. So I dont know who to believe. I only want to keep it about 40-50 degrees day to day then maybe turn it up on friday night so its warm for the weekends. I think I might start a new thread and ask for real $ amounts from guys who a running electric water tanks.
John
 

custom1

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Update. Sorry if I sort of took this tread off in a different direction.

Lets get back to under slab insulation.

First- 5 Window, the foam for $18. at Home D was only the 15 psi stuff. The 25 psi is more like $30. same as anywhere else.

Second- Newbarn and hd03king, I found door cutouts!!! :bounce: Just call your local entry door salesman and find out who their suppliers are. The supplier(or local manufacturer) buys blank doors from Thermo Tru and others, then they cutout for the windows and hang them in the jamb. The place I'm getting them from is happy to get rid of them for free to me, so they are saving money on waste removal. They even gave me some full door blanks that were damaged or mistakes.

Third- Ezzie and Farmer sid, Are your cutouts steel skin or fibreglass? They are only giving me fibreglass because they recycle the steel. And did you put in two layers or just one?


Fourth- THIS FORUM ROCKS!!! :rocker: Just saved me $1000.!!!

John
 

Chris J

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Hi Guys. I'm new here too, but wanted to put in my two cents.

After doing a lot of research on insulation for my 36x44 building, I learned a shocking thing. The marketing guys have made "R" values relative!

I statered to learn this by reading different manufacturers' own write-ups about the pros of their own product type versus competitive product types (i.e. fiberglass vs cellulose vs poly, etc.).

Some of poly guys were claiming an R value of 10 per inch, and so where some of the cellulose guys. Now, I don't know everything about everything, but I know enough to understand that the key to retaining heat is to not let it migrate through a media either by conduction, convection, or radiation. Since insulation inside a wall isn't really subject to radiation, conduction and convection are the big issues. Heat migration can be controlled by keeping air spaces small enough that convective currents cannot get started, and conduction is controlled by using materials with as low a heat density as possible. That being the case, how could there be that much difference in R value from one material to the next?

I finally got one rep to admit how they were skewing the numbers, and it is based on the non-linear R value of insulation. Without going on ad-nasuem about how fiberglass R values are calculated, they are based on a given static temp of 70 degrees F and a temp differential across the insulation of only a very few degrees. It is also based on CONDUCTIVE heat transfer through the insulation.

It is a known fact in the industry that loose fiberglass (batts) starts to develop convective currents within the fiber when the temp differential across it starts to increase and this allows more heat transfer through the fiberglass and lowers the R value. At temp differentials of 50 degrees (20 degrees outside temp and 70 degrees inside temp), the R value of fiberglass batts is down to about 30% of the R value established by the test conditions at 70 degrees.

Material like closed-cell poly very effectively eliminates convective currents, and so will not transfer the same amount of heat as fiberglass bats at these greater temp differentials. The marketing guys have jumped on this and transformed the data to make their material look like it has a greater R value. The transformation looks like this:

Fiberglass bats at 70 degrees = R value of approx 3 per inch of thickness,
Fiberglass bats at 20 degrees = R value of approx .9 per inch of thickness,

Assumed R value of Fiberglass bats across all temps still equals 3 per inch, even at 20 degrees F, so true R value VS assumed R value = error of 3.3 to 1.

True R value of poly at both 70 degrees and 20 degrees = approx 3.5 per inch so, based on the non-linear R value of batt insulation, poly at 20 degrees F is equivalent to batt insulation with an R value 11.55 per inch!

This is how some of these exceptionally high R values are determined, but they are only representative of performance under significant temp differentials. Under moderate temp differentials, the performance difference between the two materials is not nearly so great.

Cellulose also claims some very high R values per inch, but not normally as high as poly. Cellulose is a bit more "open" in it's structure than poly, so it does have somewhat higher convection rates than poly, but nowhere near as high as fiberglass bats.

All materials have an true R value in the "3+ per inch" range when measured the same way that fiberglass bats are, but their comperative performance across temperature is not uniform.

I mention this for two reasons. The first is that you cannot automatically assume a material with an R value of 8 per inch is better than a material with an R value of 5 per inch or 3 per inch. It all depends on how the value is calculated, and the guys selling a product have a vested interest in using the highest number they can. Closed cell foam is closed cell foam. Door cutouts are not going to have a higher R value per inch than the blue foam, AND the door cutouts are not the same thickness all the way across the panel! I'm not saying to not use them, just understand what you are really getting.

The second reason for bringing this up is that it may have some bearing on what a person selects for insulation in different environments. If you are intending to insulate a place to accomodate a 20 degree temp differential, then all materials are going to perform very much the same, so pick the cheapest material available. If you expect to have to deal with differentials significantly larger than 20 degrees, it is worth spending the money to get cellulose, or even poly (VERY expensive!).

Regarding insulating a slab, 2 inches of blue foam will give you a true R10 all the way across the slab. The door cutouts will NOT give you consistant R8 all the way across the slab.
 

Canada55

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I've taken a look at "The Barrier" and it looks like an exceptionally good product and I would not hesitate for one second using under a slab that I only walk on. I am concerned with it under a slab that more than a few thousand pounds is rolling around on it, and a two post hoist with a 1 ton truck on it.

I did not feel comfortable with the compression strenght of "The Barrier" if I can completely colapse it between two fingers that is not strong enough for me. I have chossen an DOW Strofoam Highload it comes in 40, 60, 100 PSI...might be overkill, but no cracks and I can sleep at night.....Dennis
 

njbadboy

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Hello everyone, although I am a new member on here, I have been doing some reading/research on here and think this site is simply amazing with everyone helping one another out!!

I live in South Jersey (NJ) and recently had a 30'x32'x10' pole barn put up with an 8' lean to on one side. The windows, doors and garage doors are insulated am I am in the process of leveling the floor out with crushed concrete that will be compacted every 2-3".

I am looking to heat the building, keeping it at around 40-45 degrees, and seems as though the majority of everyone agrees radiant floor heat is the way to go. I would be most likely use NG to heat with since it is cheaper than electric.

I read in one of the forums insulating the floor and walls with fiberglass door cut outs, and actually purchased a few two weeks ago and began installing them around the bottom of the walls. I was planning on lining the floor with them and then install the radiant floor lines prior to concrete (4").

I have a few questions if someone would help me, I would appreciate it....

1. Do I still need a vapor barrier in place, and if so does it go between the door cut outs and concrete or between the crushed concrete and door cut outs?

2. I am planning on a 4" slab with fiber since the heaviest thing that I have is my Chevy Silverado 1500 that would only be parked in there on occasion, and my tractor and boat is lighter than that. I do not own/need/use any heavy equipment such as a post lift, welder, bolt down machinery.

3. Has anyone used the door cut outs for floor heat, and if so did you only use a single layer or double layer? Do these cut outs need to be secured in anyway to prevent movement or does the concrete take care of that?

4. And for anyone who has used them, are you satisfied with the performance of them?

5. Anyone know how these cut outs hold up under the slab for a garage since their being driven on?

Thanks for your time in reading this post and any help you can provide!!!

Jeff
 

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custom1

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Hi Jeff and welcome. Just to answer really quick(just leaving work). I used two layers of cutouts. Just put them down like a puzzle. They won't go anywhere. I put my vapor barrier on top of the stone and under the cutouts. My slab is 5". No cracking anywhere yet. Heaviest thing on it so far is my Dakota. No heat hooked up yet, but just having it insulated from the ground helps the garage stay warm.
 

njbadboy

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South Jersey
Thanks for responding guys. custom1 how long ago did you put the floor in? Are you going to go with radiant floor heat? Arm6887 I thought above doubling the insulation under the slab, but have decided for sure yet. Do I really need to put the insulation down to the frost line (3')??
 
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