How Remove Old Sink From Basement Wall

[msmit62]

This isn't in my garage but I'm posting it here because I know someone on this sight knows the answer. Pictured is an old sink in my in-laws basement, two of the three pictures were taken underneath it looking up. They are moving into a condo and my wife wants to remove the sink and set it up somewhere at our house (we bought an old farm house back in 2017). How does one remove it from the wall? I looked underneath it but didn't see any fasteners. It wouldn't be cemented into the wall with studs, would it? I was hoping to just disconnect the water line, unbolt a couple nuts and remove it but maybe it's not that simple. Thanks in advance!

 

[BigGarage]

This isn't in my garage but I'm posting it here because I know someone on this sight knows the answer. Pictured is an old sink in my in-laws basement, two of the three pictures were taken underneath it looking up. They are moving into a condo and my wife wants to remove the sink and set it up somewhere at our house (we bought an old farm house back in 2017). How does one remove it from the wall? I looked underneath it but didn't see any fasteners. It wouldn't be cemented into the wall with studs, would it? I was hoping to just disconnect the water line, unbolt a couple nuts and remove it but maybe it's not that simple. Thanks in advance!

It may be hanging on a bracket like this one in my second floor 1/2 bath. The sink is extremely heavy and it drops down on the bracket and it's held in place like that. No bolts or nuts on mine. Maybe disconnect the water lines and see if you can wiggle it back & forth or up & down. Maybe it's just kind of set in place after so many years of being there.

 

[karoc]

I have old sink that has that wedge bracket also that Big Garage posted. After plumbing been disconnected it should just lift up.

 

[geneg]

This isn't in my garage but I'm posting it here because I know someone on this sight knows the answer. Pictured is an old sink in my in-laws basement, two of the three pictures were taken underneath it looking up. They are moving into a condo and my wife wants to remove the sink and set it up somewhere at our house (we bought an old farm house back in 2017). How does one remove it from the wall? I looked underneath it but didn't see any fasteners. It wouldn't be cemented into the wall with studs, would it? I was hoping to just disconnect the water line, unbolt a couple nuts and remove it but maybe it's not that simple. Thanks in advance!

Every one of those I've removed has been on a wall carrier similar to the one Big Garage pictured. Get 2 people to lift up on both sides (ends) while the 3rd person taps up with a RUBBER or leather mallet. Not to hammer it up, just to loosen the rust & dirt bond. If that doesn't work, solidly block up the ends to support the weight of the sink & attempt to remove the lags from the carrier. When that doesn't work- grind off the heads with a 4" wheel.

GOOD LUCK!

 

[cgrutt]

Only thing I'd add to above is you may need to cut around perimeter if it's been caulked. My dad would likely have glued that to wall (in addition to bracket) with construction adhesive hopefully that's not the case with yours.

 

[msmit62]

That bracket theory looks very promising! Does it just lift off of that bracket or is there some kind of release mechanism that I have to push first?

 

[larry4406]

With regards to the glue/caulk concerns expressed, perhaps get one of those windshield removal tools (small wire cable with two hand pulls) so that you can saw out any caulk/glue working from the bottom up. Ultimately it should hit the carrier and stop your efforts.

 

[BigGarage]

That bracket theory looks very promising! Does it just lift off of that bracket or is there some kind of release mechanism that I have to push first?

I have 2 of these sinks and there is no release mechanism at all. Gravity holds the sink in place. As big as your sink is you may try a hydraulic floor jack under it to slowly raise it up.

Dennis

 

[msmit62]

I have 2 of these sinks and there is no release mechanism at all. Gravity holds the sink in place. As big as your sink is you may try a hydraulic floor jack under it to slowly raise it up.

Dennis

That's a great idea to use a floor jack!

 

[msmit62]

I should be all set, thank-you to everyone for all the advice.

 

[kbuhagiar]

Be prepared, that sucker's gonna be HEAVY! Make sure you have help.

 

[msmit62]

I plan on roping in a good friend to help.

 

[nadogail]

I plan on roping in a good friend to help.

Two friends are better than just one

 

[msmit62]

I can do that too. Getting back to that bracket, I suppose I'll need that at my house when we rehang the sink. How are they normally attached to the wall?

 

[cgrutt]

Imagine by looks of that sink (agewise) bracket was probably screwed or lagged to studs.

 

[msmit62]

No, that one belongs to Big Garage. Scroll all the way to the top and see the one that belongs to my in-laws...it's mounted to a block wall.

 

[cgrutt]

Sorry, I was talking about yours but didn't realize it was a block wall. Probably lagged if I had to guess only way to know for sure is to pull it off and see what's behind it.

 

[msmit62]

Roger that, thanks cgrutt.

 

[Rst277]

Imagine by looks of that sink (agewise) bracket was probably screwed or lagged to studs.

The last couple I removed had big flat head screws which were a total b**** to get out. The guys that installed these must have had forearms like popeye!

 

[msmit62]

The last couple I removed had big flat head screws which were a total b**** to get out. The guys that installed these must have had forearms like popeye!

Duly noted, thanks for the heads-up. I'll be sure to bring some heavy duty drivers that can deliver serious leverage and torque.

 

[Fav Onefour]

I've dealt with a few versions over the years. It might be worth getting a real good look behind there before starting.

I had one that looked similar and had two big slots cast into the back. They had used big anchor lags into the concrete and dropped the sink onto those. The slots were about two inches tall. The slots had some taper, but the sink needed to go up quite a distance before it was free. I'd whack off those capped water lines before even trying to lift the sink.

That sink isn't as heavy as you might think. Breaking it loose will be the biggest challenge. I'm sure it's partially fused-rusted to the wall.
I like using a floor jack. Use good blocks and spread the pressure. Don't try lifting it off right away. Get the jack tight and do another 1/4 pump. The bottom edge will lift away from the wall but the top will still be stuck. It will probably take some ringing clangs with a hammer to shake and break it loose. Cast is brittle like the liberty bell. The porcelain will chip if you hit it directly. I like to use something like a hardwood block to disperse the hammer hit. Deadblow and soft woods won't give you a clang.

Good Luck.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Guessing it's been painted around so many times the paint will try to keep you from removing by lifting. If it were mine I'd put a 2x4 across the underside of the sink and lift it with a floor jack and a piece of 4x4. Do it on one side gently and see if it "gives" a bit. Best of luck.

 

[msmit62]

You guys are great, I really appreciate the feedback. This sink is sentimental to my wife because she remembers using it years ago when she was a little girl so she'd be heartbroken if it got cracked during the removal process so I'll be careful when I remove it. Even though it's not pretty and shiny she wants me to take it out of the house before mom and dad sell it in a few months. I don't have a date set yet to remove it but I'd imagine it would be within the next month. They're about an hour away so we'll have to plan a Saturday to go down there.

 

[lolaetype]

Once you get it home do you plan on refinishing it? If so be forewarned the Rust-oleum tub refinishing kit is rubbish, IMO. I used this stuff and it worked great.

https://www.amazon.com/Ekopel-Bathtub-Refinishing-Kit-Reglazing/dp/B07MCW3KJB/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[pima67]

Squirt some WD-40 or other lube along the top and hope it gets down to the fasteners. Maybe have Mom or Dad do that in the interim.

 

[Crazyjake8493]

About 6 months ago, I removed the sink in our basement that looked EXACTLY like that one. It hung on a big bracket just like BigGarage showed in his picture. Once I disconnected all the plumbing I gave it a hefty jerk upwards and it came loose.

It was definitely heavy and awkward to carry out of the basement, but I'm 5'9" 150lbs and I did it by myself without issue. I can't imagine that one would be too much heavier.

 

[nadogail]

Two friends are better than just one

 

[428PI]

My bathroom sink was a version of that. Yep, just a bracket holding it to the wall. Luckily, the wood studs were of better wood quality than one gets today. Today, the bracket screws would just pull out of the stud!

 

[rayra]

You guys are great, I really appreciate the feedback. This sink is sentimental to my wife because she remembers using it years ago when she was a little girl so she'd be heartbroken if it got cracked during the removal process so I'll be careful when I remove it. Even though it's not pretty and shiny she wants me to take it out of the house before mom and dad sell it in a few months. I don't have a date set yet to remove it but I'd imagine it would be within the next month. They're about an hour away so we'll have to plan a Saturday to go down there.

put some plywood or a hunk of 2x6 between your floor jack steel and the porcelain.

 

[The Cobbler]

and the hanger may be cast iron.. easy to break if you put a lot of force on it

 

[atch]

Your wife may or may not want to refinish the sink. She might want it to look exactly like she remembers it from her childhood. That said, if she does want it refinished I highly recommend the Ecopel 2K that lolaetype mentioned. Sherry and I refinished a tub and pedestal sink with this stuff. These are 100 year old items and VERY heavy cast iron. They have no sentimental value for us as we bought them specifically to use in our bathroom remodel. Turned out great. Pricy but worth it.

 

[larry4406]

When you take the sink out, keep all the tail piece parts.

@jar944 put an antique sink in his laundry room and he had a hell of a time finding the right tail piece and trim. Hang on to all the parts till its installed at your house.

 

[jar944]

When you take the sink out, keep all the tail piece parts.

@jar944 put an antique sink in his laundry room and he had a hell of a time finding the right tail piece and trim. Hang on to all the parts till its installed at your house.

Ah yes.. Not sure if it extends beyond kitchen sinks but the drain opening size on a lot of those is larger than the current standard. If it's not leaking I'd leave the drain flange in place.

The center faucet is interesting .

When you set it up at tour house you will need to plumb it for a wall mount.

 

[msmit62]

Your wife may or may not want to refinish the sink. She might want it to look exactly like she remembers it from her childhood. That said, if she does want it refinished I highly recommend the Ecopel 2K that loleatype mentioned. Sherry and I refinished a tub and pedestal sink with this stuff. These are 100 year old items and VERY heavy cast iron. They have no sentimental value for us as we bought them specifically to use in our bathroom remodel. Turned out great. Pricy but worth it.

Mike, I don't know if she wants to refinish it or not (I don't she knows either) but if we do refinish it then I'll be sure to check out the Ecopel product. Thanks for the tip!

When you take the sink out, keep all the tail piece parts.

@jar944 put an antique sink in his laundry room and he had a hell of a time finding the right tail piece and trim. Hang on to all the parts till its installed at your house.

Larry, what are the "tail piece parts"?

 

[SteveCh]

I bought a few old sinks from a place that sells those things from demo's. One of the sinks also had the bracket-attach design. I didn't have a bracket but was able to make one from a short length of angle iron. Been in use now for 30 years.

As a couple other posters have said, some of these old sinks take what is now-non-standard diameters of tail pieces and etc. Not only did I spend hours searching for new parts in those old sizes, I also spent hours figuring out how to transition the old sized parts to my more-modern plumbing. Hours.

 

[cgrutt]

The tail piece is the pipe that extends down from the drain and runs into the trap. I'd keep all of it until you install at new location.

Also be sure to pick up a Fernco cap or Oatley test plug to seal up the old drain otherwise sewer gasses are likely to spread into your inlaws basement whenever they run the water or flush a toilet upstairs.

 

[housewolf]

Mike, I don't know if she wants to refinish it or not (I don't she knows either) but if we do refinish it then I'll be sure to check out the Ecopel product. Thanks for the tip!

Larry, what are the "tail piece parts"?

That sink appears to have a regular sink drain in it with a PVC tailpiece screwed to it. It should either be a 3-1/2” dia hole or 2-1/2” (junior basket strainer) hole.

Make note of the height of the hanger before you remove it. If you want to install it higher or lower, adjust accordingly. When you rough in at its new location, you’ll need to put some very sturdy backing in the wall to attach the hanger to. I’d use 2x6 minimum, well secured.

 

[jar944]

That sink appears to have a regular sink drain in it with a PVC tailpiece screwed to it. It should either be a 3-1/2” dia hole or 2-1/2” (junior basket strainer) hole.

Make note of the height of the hanger before you remove it. If you want to install it higher or lower, adjust accordingly. When you rough in at its new location, you’ll need to put some very sturdy backing in the wall to attach the hanger to. I’d use 2x6 minimum, well secured.

Appears and actually has are 2 different things. The drain/strainer threads are standard even on now non standard strainers so seeing a pvc threaded tail piece on doesn't confirm a (modern) standard hole.

This is pvc connected to a 1939 strainer.

1/4" isn't a lot but it and the angle of the contour meant a 4.5" od only touched on the outer edge. The original strainer was 5" od.

 

[BigGarage]

When you rough in at its new location, you’ll need to put some very sturdy backing in the wall to attach the hanger to. I’d use 2x6 minimum, well secured.

It all depends on the kind of wall he's going to mount it on. I put a 4"x4" piece behind the wall and then screwed the sink mount to it.

 

[msmit62]

When we bought this old farmhouse, we bought an old farmhouse sink in very nice shape off Craigslist and installed it in the half bath. I don't think that one was every refinished. This one might end up in the basement or in one of the out buildings. Not sure yet.