How to extract a drill bit stuck inside a pipe?

[DMucci]

I have a set of motorcycle handlebars I was planning on running wires through. I found out the bars had long nylon inserts/plugs embedded about 6" down into the bars.

Long story short there's a drill bit stuck in the nylon insert inside the handlebars. The end of the bit is about 3" inside the bar so I can't just grab it with the chuck and back it out.

Anyone have an idea how I could get this out? Is there a tool that exists that's basically a female screw extractor? (inner threaded pipe with a tapered reverse thread)

The drill bit shank is 1/4" and the handlebar ID is about 5/8". Here's a cross section:

And here's the contraption I made that got it stuck in the first place. Thread tap chuck welded to the end of a sold rod. The chuck's grip on the bit let go and I have no way to retighten it down inside the bar.

 

[Dozerhand]

That is a pickle. I'm giving it some thought now. I'll bet someone here comes up with a workable solution.

 

[454ragtop]

Any chance you can reach it with needle nose vise grips? For the future, drill extensions with a 1/4" hole with a set screw are common hardware store items, have a couple here I've picked up over the years.
Good luck.

 

[Dozerhand]

By the way. How did it get in there like that?

 

[driewal536]

I would try my Crescent Double-X Pliers 1st.

 

[454ragtop]

Maybe get one of the drill extensions I mentioned, remove the set screw and put super glue inside the barrel. Slide it over the bit and then warm the handle bar with a heat gun or propane torch to soften the nylon?

 

[Ign]

The Craftsman bolt-outs are what asked for OP

Not sure if their OD is under 5/8 though, I don't think so. You'd also have to weld a (smaller, just to get the sq drive) socket or extension to them as they just have a hex on the drive end

 

[BuffettFan]

Can you weld a pc of tubing to the outside of the chuck so you can tighten it once it's inside the handlebar?
And if you get it out, buy an aircraft style drill bit to finish the job. 6" or 12" OAL is available for small money.
Good Luck!

 

[jonesg]

Can you weld a pc of tubing to the outside of the chuck so you can tighten it once it's inside the handlebar?
And if you get it out, buy an aircraft style drill bit to finish the job. 6" or 12" OAL is available for small money.
Good Luck!

I had the same idea, you beat me to it, so heres another option.

Make a noose from thin braided wire, slip it over the drill and slide hammer the ****** out. It will probably pull the plastic slug out too.

 

[derosa]

Put a plug with a valve in the other end and use a hose clamp to keep it there and see how much pressure you can add. At the bike ship handlebars would have nylon inserts that would get shoved in from crashing, we have a nozzle with a trigger that we would insert into the plug in the other side and just use pressure to push it out. Always fun to aim the endcap at someone across the room before pulling the trigger. Could usually get the other endcap out by sticking your finger in the now empty end. At 110-120psi it could be tough getting your finger to stay in if the second plug was persistent.

 

[Strouty]

How about new handle bars?

 

[dd-ardvark]

Not to make a first post a bit know it all, but take a 0.375" water pipe 10"-14" long and cut some teeth on the end, chuck it up in your drill and auger your way though. The stuck bit will be you guide on the inside of the handle bar.

David

 

[6PTsocket]

From your drawing, I assume it is 1/4" hex shank bit. I would take the widest, thickest piece of stock I could get down there and bend a rt. angle or more on the end. I would slot the end to the size of the drill bit . I would make it from a piece of flat stock and hook the bit by the hex shank and pull it out. Sort of like a back scratcher. Then I would get a long bit that extends outside tbe bars so it does not happen again.






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[quattro_sinko]

Use a rigid tube packed with CA glue.

Both Fastcap https://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/2P-10-Adhesive-c48.htm and Titebond http://http://www.titebond.com/instant_bond/InstantBond_ThinkFast.aspx make good products. (I'm partial to Fastcap, but either will work) Make sure you get the thickest glue they offer.

Find a metal tube you can slip in the bars and over the drill bit, and do some dry runs.
If you find one that works, pack the first inch or so of the INSIDE of your tube with glue (skip the activator, it allows you (supposedly) to extend the set up time from 10 to 20 or so seconds. That should be enough time to set it in, and over.

Give it a few minutes, and carefully pull it all (hopefully) out.

Wear gloves, and practice with the glue first. I use them daily for more than I ever imagined. (Not affiliated with either company)

 

[ocloc24]

You mentioned bolt extractors, there's many other kinds besides craftsman. These for example have a smaller OD. And they come in a 1/4" size ID which should grab your bit. These deepwell should slide over and bite better as well, I'm not sure if there's anywhere to order them individually. The 5 PC sets aren't horribly expensive though.

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[Ty.]

fire? torch it out

 

[toplessHO]

put some heat via heat gun on the bit and it will fall out when the nylon melts around it

 

[fivespdcat]

It's a 1/4" hex bit? Use a magnetic socket attached to the drill set it in reverse and let the drill walk it's way out. You can also get c clip holders that will have a much more positive retention.

Apparently the new Milwaukee shockwave locking bits are "auto locking" . So if they're anything like the fuel impact drivers, you can just push the extension on and lock onto the bit. All over the net for less than $10.
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[JimNC]

Not to make a first post a bit know it all, but take a 0.375" water pipe 10"-14" long and cut some teeth on the end, chuck it up in your drill and auger your way though. The stuck bit will be you guide on the inside of the handle bar.

David

This.

Or, insert pipe over shank, pour in high strength epoxy, wait a day, pull it out twisting if you wish. Epoxy probably won't stick to the plastic...probably.

 

[larry_g]

Use a rigid tube packed with CA glue.

Both Fastcap https://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/2P-10-Adhesive-c48.htm and Titebond http://http://www.titebond.com/instant_bond/InstantBond_ThinkFast.aspx make good products. (I'm partial to Fastcap, but either will work) Make sure you get the thickest glue they offer.

Find a metal tube you can slip in the bars and over the drill bit, and do some dry runs.
If you find one that works, pack the first inch or so of the INSIDE of your tube with glue (skip the activator, it allows you (supposedly) to extend the set up time from 10 to 20 or so seconds. That should be enough time to set it in, and over.

Give it a few minutes, and carefully pull it all (hopefully) out.

Wear gloves, and practice with the glue first. I use them daily for more than I ever imagined. (Not affiliated with either company)

If going this route, which is a good one, cross drill the tube so that you have an air escape when the drill bit slides into the tube. If you don't the air pressure may extrude the glue out past the drill bit and make things worse.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[KnurledNut]

If you have a stick welder, stick a 3/16 or 1/4 electrode to the end of the bit, and pull it out. The heat should soften the nylon.

 

[sberry]

If it costs money leave it?

 

[JohnDeere1]

I would try my Crescent Double-X Pliers 1st.

+1 i have a pair and love them they sell the at HD.

 

[Indexmill]

Cut the handlebar close enough to the end of the bit to be able to grab it and pull it out duh.

 

[toplessHO]

If you have a stick welder, stick a 3/16 or 1/4 electrode to the end of the bit, and pull it out. The heat should soften the nylon.

and?
how do you ground the bit? its in plastic

 

[DMucci]

Lots of good ideas in here, thanks guys.

The bars are brand new, not cheap, and no one makes a similar model so I either salvage these or end up buying the client a new set for a couple hundred bucks. Then drill them out with the 12" bit I should have used in the first place.

I like the sleeve pipe welded to the chuck idea, so I can tighten it down with the chuck in the bar. I might try that first. The epoxy filled tube is a close second I'm just afraid of adhering that whole setup to the bar or nylon in addition to the bit.

Immense heat will likely effect the anodizing color.

Those Irwin bolt-grips may work. Looks like the 1/4" size has a 5/8" OD. Only issue is it isn't actually grabbing the bit so I'd have to hope that it backs itself out of the nylon.

It's too deep for needle nose vice grips. I don't have a set of double-x pliers but they'd have to be pretty tiny to hinge inside a 5/8" tube.

We'll see what I can get to work...

 

[Roju1985]

is the end of the drill bit 1/4" hex or 1/4" round?

If 1/4" hex use one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GIOFH5E/?tag=atomicindus08-20
mess around until you can get the drill bit to go into the holder and reverse the bit out.

If it's 1/4" round I would probably first try to find a small length of metal tube or pipe with 1/4" ID then deform it to make it oblong. Try to hammer that pinched pipe over the drill bit and back it out. My money is on it's not biting that hard since it's only in plastic

You could also try taking a long slim screwdriver and try prying the drill bit back and forth to loosen it up.

 

[Dingleburry]

Try some compression fittings if you have a way to tightet them. Like those 90 deg wrenches for die grinders. Then thread a pipe on end of fitting.

Try finding metal tube that will fit over top and solder it to drill bit.

Make a metal shaft with slightly smaller diameter and heat the **** outta it and shrink fit into drill bit

Make metal shaft with a slight slip fit load it up wuth loctite 680 or similar.

Get die grinder with mounted point or something grind 2 flats to help spin bit with long nose pliers or the double jointed ones or something.

Weld a coupling nut onto it. Thread long bolt onto it

Heat drill bit up to melt plastic, tap handle bars on wood maybe itll fall out

Idk just rambling ideas

 

[SIKPUP]

drill it out with the longer drill bit next to the stuck one , then oval the hole .

 

[Provincial]

Try some compression fittings if you have a way to tightet them. Like those 90 deg wrenches for die grinders. Then thread a pipe on end of fitting.

Try finding metal tube that will fit over top and solder it to drill bit.

Make a metal shaft with slightly smaller diameter and heat the **** outta it and shrink fit into drill bit

Make metal shaft with a slight slip fit load it up wuth loctite 680 or similar.

Get die grinder with mounted point or something grind 2 flats to help spin bit with long nose pliers or the double jointed ones or something.

Weld a coupling nut onto it. Thread long bolt onto it

Idk just rambling ideas

Best idea yet! Make sure you clean the drill bit shank and the hole in the extractor shaft with brake cleaner or other degreaser before you apply the loctite. If you have the hole drilled in a lathe and it is accurately centered, you will have a long drill bit when you get it out.

 

[harleybear66]

maybe try a hex socket-the type that's chrome with removable black inserts- pull the insert and put it on an extention with a ratchet-you may need to try a size or two up-the inserts fit in the chrome socket snug -slide it on the 1/4 hex and try to wiggle it out

 

[Doug Arthurs]

How about a kellum grip designed for 1/4 wire. Those things grab like there is no tomorrow.

 

[beamrider]

If the bit has a 1/4" hex on the end, you can use this: https://www.milwaukeetool.com/accessories/fastening/48-28-1020

It will lock on to any 1/4" hex shank, wether it has the retaining groove or not.

 

[SteveW1000]

Thin tube that slips over the drill bit. File teeth in the end and bend some out slightly to give some set. Chuck in the drill and run it down around the stuck drill bit. Will have to withdraw frequently to clear swarf. drill bit should come free as you get further in.

 

[jonesg]

and?
how do you ground the bit? its in plastic

picky picky, such details don't count on the internet.

 

[jonesg]

Thin tube that slips over the drill bit. File teeth in the end and bend some out slightly to give some set. Chuck in the drill and run it down around the stuck drill bit. Will have to withdraw frequently to clear swarf. drill bit should come free as you get further in.

Thats the winner.

 

[wagzilla]

heat it up and blow it out the other side with air?

 

[Tall Paul]

Not to make a first post a bit know it all, but take a 0.375" water pipe 10"-14" long and cut some teeth on the end, chuck it up in your drill and auger your way though. The stuck bit will be you guide on the inside of the handle bar.

David

I like this idea above.

Or use the long drill bit you are going to buy to drill the new hole and just start hogging out the nylon next to the old bit. The old bit might fall out with the nylon material removed. or it might stay in there, which shouldn't matter.

 

[KnurledNut]

and?
how do you ground the bit? its in plastic

Steel pipe over the bit.
Flat stock clamp extension.
Whatever works.
Its not rocket science.

 

[IUEC Medic]

Any resolution here? Curious...