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How to remove broken exhaust manifold bolt

PCustoms

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Straight CO2? Or is it better mixed with Argon? I just don’t want to pay tank rental since I will probably have it for the rest of my life
Mix.

And before you blindly buy a tank,

1) make sure the local store will fill it
2) if used, make sure they seller actually owns it

 
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Jswain

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If you want gas cheap and readily available straight CO2.

I've switched from mixed to CO2 and I find my Miller prefers it. Did lots of testing back and forth and decided the c25 was not doing me any better, nor welding any cleaner.

20lb Co2 bottle holds ~175cuft of gas as it's sold by weight. Fills are usually around 1/2 the price as getting an 80cuft of c25 mix, so you are paying a lot less, can get them filled or exchanged in a lot more places, and can usually find one on Kijiji or FB for 50 bucks.

All you need is an adapter for your Argon regulator.
 

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budget76

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Jan 19, 2016
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502
When you fill them up with weld when they are deep, do you run a copper pipe down to protect the threads or just fill it up?
just saw a video where the guy used copper tube to protect the threads, thought it was smart. his application was steel threads so more critical than aluminum heads. worked great

he just had some scraps of various fridge water line, brake line, etc to choose from
 

jjblbi

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Mar 28, 2010
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15
I bought a cheap HF flux welder for removing broken hemi exhaust studs and it was definitely worth it. If you use long nose angle head needle nose pliers (again cheapy HF) you can weld a nut with the head in place. Fill the stud to just above the surface, remove any slag and then weld on a 3/8" nut. Weld does not stick to or damage the aluminum head. The combo of the heat and electrical current "breaks" the frozen stud threads free. Let it cool, spray with PB, loosen a little, spray, tighten, loosen repeat. I've done 2 or 3 studs on two different Ram trucks.

Crappy manifold design-the manifold grows longer as it heats up and shears the bolts most downstream...
 
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Burt Shaver

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Another broken bolt today, this time the abs sensor bolt in a steering knuckle off our 2012 Mazda 2, it didn’t go so well this time. I basically welded the broken off bolt to the knuckle, I didn’t use the copper tube inside the whole as I should have. Anyways I was able to drill a new hole back through it, the abs sensor fits pretty snug so it’s just getting a zip tie where the bolt used to be. If it becomes an issue which I don’t think it will take it back off and have it fixed properly
 
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Burt Shaver

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I usually run a 13/64 bit through the bolt and tap with a 6mm tap.
If your a little off use a 1/4" x28 sae tap (7/32" bit)and a fine thread bolt.
This would be something new for me, I’m only guessing, use a drill press to drill a 13/16” hole and then you just run a 6mm tap through that hole? I would need to watch a few video’s to figure out how to do it I’m sure. Is there a cutting oil with when using the tap?
 

Hohn

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I recently went to war with a bolt that broke off, rust seized in the lower control arm of my GX. It’s the bolt that held in the brake line brackets to the LCA. Bolt broke, then extractor broke.

I had my MIG torn apart so I tried to weld a nut on with stick. it wouldn’t weld to the extractor stub, not sure why, but the weld had basically no fusion and broke with little resistance.

I ended up hogging the entire thing out with a specialty SK1 carbide burr (conical point, teeth on face, 1/4” diameter). After I hogged it out, I used an M10 tap and retapped that m6 hole to M10.

The worst part was that when I went to do the passenger side I was extra diligent to avoid the bolt breaking, but it broke anyway. Oh well, it least the “hog it out” part went faster since there was no extractor to grind out.

Sometimes the electric die grinder is worth its weight in gold.
 
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Burt Shaver

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I recently went to war with a bolt that broke off, rust seized in the lower control arm of my GX. It’s the bolt that held in the brake line brackets to the LCA. Bolt broke, then extractor broke.

I had my MIG torn apart so I tried to weld a nut on with stick. it wouldn’t weld to the extractor stub, not sure why, but the weld had basically no fusion and broke with little resistance.

I ended up hogging the entire thing out with a specialty SK1 carbide burr (conical point, teeth on face, 1/4” diameter). After I hogged it out, I used an M10 tap and retapped that m6 hole to M10.

The worst part was that when I went to do the passenger side I was extra diligent to avoid the bolt breaking, but it broke anyway. Oh well, it least the “hog it out” part went faster since there was no extractor to grind out.

Sometimes the electric die grinder is worth its weight in gold.
Nice job, a lot of terms I’m not familiar with here. Definitely a skill I would like to learn. I may browse around some video’s tomorrow night to give me an idea how to go about drilling and tapping new threads. Is it just me, or is the quality of bolts not as good as it once was?
 

Hohn

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Nice job, a lot of terms I’m not familiar with here. Definitely a skill I would like to learn. I may browse around some video’s tomorrow night to give me an idea how to go about drilling and tapping new threads. Is it just me, or is the quality of bolts not as good as it once was?
It depends on what the OEMs specify. In many ways, bolts are better now than ever before. But Toyota has no reason to splurge on a premium fastener for a brake line bracket. If I was engineering that, I’d make the same decisions they did. Which means a minimum capability 8.8 class bolt.
 
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Jswain

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When the bolt is in steel/cast vs aluminum and flush or below, it definitely takes a little more finesse. Usually with everything clean, and the welder turned up high enough, you can just give it a quick zap with a fairly short arc and a freshly cut wire. Rinse & repeat until it's above the surface.

I still almost always grab the mig gun for broken bolts in steel. Gas helps a lot vs fluxcore.
 

RoninB4

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Is there a cutting oil with when using the tap?
-For almost all tapping jobs a cutting fluid should be used. The only common material where drilling/tapping is supposed to be dry is with cast iron. Cast iron can be identified when drilling in that it produces chips that crumble rather than flexible spirals. Not knowing your steering knuckle it could be forged or cast. Regardless of what the material is I would strongly suggest using a sharp tap, likely a new one. If the tap requires more force than it should or it starts "squeaking" while tapping you need to remove it as it's probably on the verge of snapping off on you. When drilling keep the RPM low enough to visually see the drill flutes or you risk work hardening the material which will make tapping much more risky/difficult than it should. If using a drill press for this it's ok to get the tap started 2-3 threads but don't power tap it the entire operation, it will risk breaking/shattering the tap and making a bigger problem. Tap it by hand the remainder of the time and back the tap out now and then to clear any chips off the tap. Good luck.
 

Wrench97

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Southeastern Pa
This would be something new for me, I’m only guessing, use a drill press to drill a 13/16” hole and then you just run a 6mm tap through that hole? I would need to watch a few video’s to figure out how to do it I’m sure. Is there a cutting oil with when using the tap?
Usually done with a hand drill part on the car, flatten the top of the broken bolt, center punch and drill. I usually start with a 1/8" bit to get a pilot hole.
 

dwysywd

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Sep 21, 2014
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This was a really great read. I have a broken head stud bolt in my 75 Honda 550 engine. I am feeling a lot better going and try to weld a bolt to it today and see if I can get it unstuck. thanks for the great conversation here @everyone!
 

Hohn

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-For almost all tapping jobs a cutting fluid should be used. The only common material where drilling/tapping is supposed to be dry is with cast iron. Cast iron can be identified when drilling in that it produces chips that crumble rather than flexible spirals.
Great post. My first use of Tap Magic was an epiphany. Cutting fluid is not oil and oil is not cutting fluid! I couldn’t believe the difference.
 
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