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how would you fix this?

TDWendt

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Toledo, OH
20130317_193110.jpg


IM thinking some metal L brackets on the back side of the door to hold the wood together so it can be usable again(can't open currently, car parts and compressor ,lawn mower ect stuck inside )
 
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vhol5

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May 24, 2011
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West Texas
How about 6" strips of 3/4" plywood, the vertical length of each door section? 6"x20"?
 

CNGsaves

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KS and OK
Visit your local garage door installer and see if they have any "hail damage take-offs" where the only thing wrong with them is cosmetic.

I bet their Bone Pile is way better than that old wooden door repaired.

Thus, don't spend any money to fix that old door. It needs replaced. Only do necessary jerry rig to get in and out safely.
 
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TDWendt

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Toledo, OH
Yes I agree, a new door is needed. I just need to make it useable, want to get a new garage door in fall. Thing is heavier than **** because it's a full width oak door(2car garage).
 

Lippyp

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Shropshire, UK
If its temporary just get some strips of decent guage sheet metal sheared to size (I'd use 3mm not sure what guage that would be) to go over the broken bits and just bolt it through either side, you could put the steel inside and out for extra strength. You could cut them into a T shape for the middle joints.
 

Tim The Tool Man

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Lehigh Valley, PA
The door does need replacement but if you look closely it is only broke in thee spots, where thr rails and stiles meet in two places the glue let go and at the end the wood ripped apart. As was mentioned before screwing a couple strips of 1/2" plywood and some yellow glue in the bad joints ought to get you by...
 

allinon72

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Indianapolis
I would also double check that the door is being pulled up evenly and that there isn't unequal load on that side.
 

joe_padavano

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Northern VA
I'd probably take the top panel out, glue and clamp it back together, maybe adding some type of fasteners or brackets.

It's an oak door. Take it apart, clean the cracks, glue them back together. If necessary, add splices on the backside. Personally, I don't see the need for a new door unless one has money to burn.
 

wesalexleft

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Apr 13, 2011
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Memphis, TN
Aside from repairing the actual section, could the top section be moved to the bottom, or to a different section that would have less stress? I agree that to fix it, you'd probably need to remove the section, glue and clamp, and even then perhaps some sort of helping mechnical fastener. A lot would depend on how well the parts mated for gluing, etc.
 

nehog

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Aside from repairing the actual section, could the top section be moved to the bottom, or to a different section that would have less stress? ...

huh, the top section has the least stress--it only connects at the bottom, no weight on it, no pressure, nothing. :dunno:
 

vhol5

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West Texas
huh, the top section has the least stress--it only connects at the bottom, no weight on it, no pressure, nothing. :dunno:

Actually, the top panel DOES have the most stress. The door opener puts a major stress on it as it pulls it open, especially if the door isn't adjusted properly.
 

BMcC

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Colorado
I'd just replace it. You're talking about something that if fixed improperly could fall on you or your car.
 
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GreyOwl

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North Las Vegas
If it is "heavier than ****" the springs are not adjusted properly or broken or misadjusted cables/drums. Even a wood door should be able to be moved with one hand IF adjusted properly.
 

olytdi

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Olympia, Washington
The spirit of Garage Journal compels that you repair this door then post pictures! Fix it properly and expertly and start a "garage door rehab" thread. This, of course, will require a new major tool purchases (you ALWAYS need to buy a new tool for a job!).

Ignore these blasphemers and naysayers who would have you abandon this door! Rehab it and live (and park) proudly!
 

Daniel Dudley

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It is easy to take the top panel off. You pull the rollers and hinges, and it lifts right off.

That would be easy to fix on a couple of saw horses.
 

Gunnert

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Jan 30, 2011
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This looks like one of those "just replace it" jobs. Sure, you can probably patch it but at what cost to time/money? I'm frugal, so I'd do a quick repair with plywood to get the door up/down until I found one of craigslist.org.
 

shoot summ

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Here's what I would do.

1) Lock the door(this will keep the lower sections down)
2) Remove the GDO connection if there is one
3) Unbolt the hinges on that panel and slide it up onto the track, lock it in place with vice grips or clamps.
4) Use clamps to pull the door back together, add 3/4" ply scabs glued/screwed on to secure the joints, just gluing the joints wont hold.
5) Put it all back together, make sure the springs are adjusted properly, the joints separating are an indication of another problem...
 

pattenp

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Virginia - USA
I agree with those that say remove the panel and repair it. If you have a traditional overhead door opener that pulls from the top of the door you may need to add vertical metal support strapping down the door from hinge to hinge to spread the load down the door so the door is not being pulled apart.
 

Erampu

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Waterford NY
There's more to this than just glueing and reinforcing the top panel. Something other than age caused this panel to seperate like that. There's an apparant scuff mark on the top on the one vertical. what that means, I'm not sure, but it would be a good place to start. I'd like to see pictures from the inside.
 

nehog

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Actually, the top panel DOES have the most stress. The door opener puts a major stress on it as it pulls it open, especially if the door isn't adjusted properly.

Well, when the OP says there is an opener on it, perhaps I'll feel a bit differently. He hasn't so far. The location of the damage seems to imply that there either is no opener or that that is not the problem, since the damage is primarily on the right side. :dunno:

That said, I'd cover the back with 5/8 ply (not OSB) and screw it to the panel (first having the panel pulled back together so it is close to how it should be. Then I'd start looking for a new door! :lol:
 
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TDWendt

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Toledo, OH
Wow totally forgot about this. Yes the door does have a over head opener. I'll get some pics from the inside and also when we repair it.

New tools are always a plus :)
 
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TDWendt

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Toledo, OH
The spirit of Garage Journal compels that you repair this door then post pictures! Fix it properly and expertly and start a "garage door rehab" thread. This, of course, will require a new major tool purchases (you ALWAYS need to buy a new tool for a job!).

Ignore these blasphemers and naysayers who would have you abandon this door! Rehab it and live (and park) proudly!

Will do!
 

GQ//22

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Jan 31, 2013
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Pac NW
Duct Tape.

Seriously, 2 pages of men posting suggestions and I'm the first one with Duct Tape?
 
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TDWendt

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Toledo, OH
Duct Tape.

Seriously, 2 pages of men posting suggestions and I'm the first one with Duct Tape?

Lol I've never had luck with duct tape on wood.

Going to be tackling this on Saturday afternoon I hope......I gotta car that needs finished.
 
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TDWendt

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Toledo, OH
Well I finally got around to repairing the door. Not properly but it's as good as I could with the room I had to work with.

Got some contractor grade adhesive(basicly heavy duty wood glue) and lined the cracked parts with it, lined up the joints(dowel pins) and carefully finesed the sections together.
Secured with flat steel across the crack and a 90° piece in the top corner where it was seperated the worst. Adjusted spring tension and good to go for now.
20130714_154015.jpg
 
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TDWendt

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Toledo, OH
All the adhesive excess had been cleaned off and from the outside you cant tell it was ever apart.
 
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TDWendt

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Toledo, OH
Thanks! One issue I do have is the left side of the garage door( when looking at it from outside) doesn't quite go all the way to the ground, probably a 1/4 to 1/2" gap at the corner where it should be flush to the ground?

Any ideas?
 
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