How would you fix this?

[thejudges69]

My new trailer has a major design flaw. I know Hendrickson has no fix for this so I need to come up with one.

So, my rear axle on my trailer is called a sliding axle (for those who don't know). Anyways, it is held in place by 4 pins and when I turn an air switch, a diaphragm spins this long bar and pulls the pins in, when I release the air it has springs that push the bars back through the trailer main frame.

Now what they did was took a steel pipe, slid it all the way through the suspension structure from the front to rear. You can see they weld ears on for the lock pins to attach and move with the bar, and then in the very front, you can see hanging down is a bracket that a pull handle would hook to.

So, here is what I need to fix, the tube running from the front to rear, through the suspension structure is steel to steel. Over time it is going to egg shape the holes in the suspension structure and also wear a groove into the pipe, essentially shortening it's life and causing major issues.

My initial thought was to cut everything off and put a flange bearing on each end, however, if I don't get everything clocked back in place right it will not function right. So then I thought, if I could find a flange bearing that comes in 2 pieces,wrap it around the pipe and bolt it up, that'd be perfect.

So I'm in need of suggestions how to hold this in place without cutting it apart. Here are some pics of what I'm working with.

 

[lilredex]

If it were mine, I'd make up three fingers and bolt them to that frame to ride against the pipe......keeping it centered and not wearing the frame hole. Something like a steady rest on a lathe.

 

[bear40]

My thoughts are:
1) A dry bushing of some sort might be better than an actual bearing, as a ball or roller bearing might lock up after too many winters of salt spray exposure.
2) A couple bushings could easily be machined on a lathe from steel, split in half, and tack welded in place to add a larger contact area on the shaft. If the split steel bushings ever wear out, cut the tack welds loose and replace.
3) If you need to cut the "arm" off the shaft to use a 1-piece bearing, first tack a simple jig or fixture in place that fits inside the arm and bolts to it. That way, after you are all done, you bolt the arm back in place on the fixture, and weld it to the shaft. When done, grind the tack welds holding the fixture to the trailer frame, remove the fixture, and stick it on a shelf in case you ever need it again.

 

[thejudges69]

If it were mine, I'd make up three fingers and bolt them to that frame to ride against the pipe......keeping it centered and not wearing the frame hole. Something like a steady rest on a lathe.

I considered something similar. However, I thought if I took a piece of flat plate, cut a crescent moon out of it and either bolted or welded it onto the front and rear main plates it would work, if you look closely they have a large flat washer welded to the pipe to keep it from coming out, so if I took that crescent Moon and let that washer rotate on it then it would be fine, but over time it would wear into that washer or wear that crescent Moon I have bolted on there and I'd have to do it again.

 

[The Cobbler]

or a split bushing with a flange that's in two pcs that you could wrap around the shaft and bolt to the frame .

 

[thejudges69]

My thoughts are:
1) A dry bushing of some sort might be better than an actual bearing, as a ball or roller bearing might lock up after too many winters of salt spray exposure.
2) A couple bushings could easily be machined on a lathe from steel, split in half, and tack welded in place to add a larger contact area on the shaft. If the split steel bushings ever wear out, cut the tack welds loose and replace.
3) If you need to cut the "arm" off the shaft to use a 1-piece bearing, first tack a simple jig or fixture in place that fits inside the arm and bolts to it. That way, after you are all done, you bolt the arm back in place on the fixture, and weld it to the shaft. When done, grind the tack welds holding the fixture to the trailer frame, remove the fixture, and stick it on a shelf in case you ever need it again.

I never thought about them freezing up, you make a great point. My only concern with a lot of cutting and welding is the amount of plastic air lines and rubber hose under the trailer.

A local bearing distributor suggest a pillow bearing??? He asked if I could put something above or below to mount to, which is no problem.

 

[thejudges69]

or a split bushing with a flange that's in two pcs that you could wrap around the shaft and bolt to the frame .

Would that break over time from vibration you think?

 

[The Cobbler]

 

[The Cobbler]

I don't think it would break,but if it does, it is certainly easily serviceable .

 

[bigguns69]

You could try a two piece shaft collar, not bolted together and weld to the frame or some thick wall round tube cut in half and welded to the frame. I would put a grease zerk in it to finish it off. I've done a lot of field repairs like this over the years.

 

[the gypsy]

I don't understand the purpose of the sliding axle. If there is that much push/pressure on the suspension, that there is a fear of making the hole oblong, wouldn't the pin transferring the lever action have stronger steel or iron. Not a cotter pin? I hope my train of thought was clear.

 

[kkroger]

The Judge would need to clarify but I believe the front axle of the tandem moves fore and aft to change weight distribution per axle...

 

[cvairwerks]

Tack weld a piece of flat stock across the center of the shaft. Cut in the middle and then you can pull each side out and install bushings in the frame. Slip a sleeve in before knocking the bar stock off, realign and cross drill with a small gap between the ends. You can then remove the bar stock and reassemble with bolts and castle nuts and cotter keys.

 

[thejudges69]

The Judge would need to clarify but I believe the front axle of the tandem moves fore and aft to change weight distribution per axle...

This is correct. Only difference is it's getting rear axle for the United States axle configurations.

 

[thejudges69]

Tack weld a piece of flat stock across the center of the shaft. Cut in the middle and then you can pull each side out and install bushings in the frame. Slip a sleeve in before knocking the bar stock off, realign and cross drill with a small gap between the ends. You can then remove the bar stock and reassemble with bolts and castle nuts and cotter keys.

This is a little easier said then done. There are 4 pieces welded to the center of the pipe, 2 washers keeping it from going forward and backwards and then the pull handle on the front. It's quite a chore to get this tube out. It really is a bad design.

 

[thejudges69]

This would-be perfect, what is it called?

 

[The Cobbler]

This would-be perfect, what is it called?

I googled "split flange images"

 

[thejudges69]

I googled "split flange images"

I will check it out. Tons of other good options posted. I really don't want to remove the tube or do a "ton" of welding underneath. A few tacks won't hurt anything though.

 

[Richard Cranium]

figure this out and make a kit and sell them, you can not be the only person with this problem.... Good luck Rich

 

[thejudges69]

figure this out and make a kit and sell them, you can not be the only person with this problem.... Good luck Rich

Every one of these suspensions had the same setup. But in order to do that, I need a bolt on setup. Guys will do work in a truck stop parking lot with a cordless drill, but they don't typically carry a welder lol

 

[MoonRise]

http://randallbearings.com/pdfs/RandallBearingsPillowBlocksCatalog.pdf

Check Page 11 and Page 12 specifically.

Another place

http://hightempbearings.com/Split-Bearings.aspx

 

[thejudges69]

http://randallbearings.com/pdfs/RandallBearingsPillowBlocksCatalog.pdf

Check Page 11 and Page 12 specifically.

Another place

http://hightempbearings.com/Split-Bearings.aspx

Called the second company, they are sending me a quote.

 

[the gypsy]

After some research I now know what the sliding axle is. I wish to thank everyone that took the time to answer my question.

P.S. I thought the judge was talking about a small utility trailer with a sliding axle . MY BAD...

 

[MJD1]

Your trying to find a solution for a problem that doesn't exist. I have replaced plenty of the release shafts on slider boxes, mainly because the hollow shaft rusts away. Occasionally you will see where the holes for the linkage rods get oblong. I have yet to see enough wear in the bores that the shaft passes thru to be an issue. Once your pins are set, there is no wear on anything other than the pins or the holes in the slider rails. The biggest issue you need to worry about are the pins, the springs that hold them locked or the holes in the rail. Use the dry type slider rail spray and you will be good.

 

[bill300d]

You took the words out of my mouth MJD1. The biggest issue is the pins and related pcs.

 

[MJD1]

You took the words out of my mouth MJD1. The biggest issue is the pins and related pcs.

After working on trailers that are 10+ years old in the land of rust, you pick up on a few things. That design has been around a long time, no sense reengineering something that isn't a problem.

 

[thejudges69]

Your trying to find a solution for a problem that doesn't exist. I have replaced plenty of the release shafts on slider boxes, mainly because the hollow shaft rusts away. Occasionally you will see where the holes for the linkage rods get oblong. I have yet to see enough wear in the bores that the shaft passes thru to be an issue. Once your pins are set, there is no wear on anything other than the pins or the holes in the slider rails. The biggest issue you need to worry about are the pins, the springs that hold them locked or the holes in the rail. Use the dry type slider rail spray and you will be good.

I wouldn't say it doesn't exist. I can clearly see the shiny marks in the pipe from rubbing. Not only am I trying to correct this issue. It also makes noise going down the road. I can hear the slider and the pipe banging when I'm rolling around a parking lot. Also, I believe box can suspensions are constructed different then platform trailers.

Also,what is this dry slider spray? I've asked about lubing the slider when I bought the trailer and was told the pads between the suspension and main frame were a self lubing material. Dunno, just what they said

 

[MJD1]

All I can tell you is that in many years of doing this I haven't seen one wear to the point of being an issue. Rust thru is the biggest issue. As for self lubricating, there is a nylon wear pad on top of the slider box, which really doesn't need lube per say. The issue is the slider rail gets rusty, which increases friction. The lube is basically a powdered graphite lube that goes on wet and drys to leave a graphite film. Oils generally make it worse because they collect grit , increasing friction. You could use a spray lithium grease at the bores where the slider pin realease shaft goes thru, if your concerned about wear.

 

[jackson1701]

MJD1, spot on. I repair tractors and trailers for a living, I have some trailers that are 20+years old. Never really seen an issue. Unless you are constantly changing positions multiple times a day, this system should last you for many years. The tubing should wear out/rust out before egging out the frame work. There is no real pressure on that pipe that operates the front and rear to release the pins. Just my thoughts and experience.

 

[bill300d]

Unless you are constantly changing positions multiple times a day, this system should last you for many years. The tubing should wear out/rust out before egging out the frame work.

Even if you were moving them multiple times a day I don't think it would be a problem. I've pulled wagons for 45 years and I have never had an issue with that tube other than rusting out.

 

[thejudges69]

Ok, just to clarify, I've pulled and worked on several tandems as well. I own this trailer and don't like it's design. The system will work smoother of it rotates on a better axis instead of flopping up and down in an already egg shaped hole. So regardless of others thoughts in repair shops I don't like it and will find a fix. This is in no way trying to be disrespectful and I appreciate the feedback, however most people can give 2 shits about how their suspension works. I on the other hand do.

I'm also going to drill and tap the pin tubes and add remote grease fittings. I hate problems, I see several with the design of this suspension and plan to rectify them as I go along. I keep my equipment years and years, I never go to repair shops on the road, so it's gotta be 100%.

So that all being said anymore feedback, the split pillow bearing idea is great but at 300 dollars a piece, I'd like to look for cheaper alternatives if possible.

 

[sberry]

I doubt it will up and puke one day, would let it go a while and see what happened before I fixed it. Some wear wouldn't effect the fix. Might even simply wire weld up the tube some if it got sloppy.

 

[MJD1]

Ok, just to clarify, I've pulled and worked on several tandems as well. I own this trailer and don't like it's design. The system will work smoother of it rotates on a better axis instead of flopping up and down in an already egg shaped hole. So regardless of others thoughts in repair shops I don't like it and will find a fix. This is in no way trying to be disrespectful and I appreciate the feedback, however most people can give 2 shits about how their suspension works. I on the other hand do.

I'm also going to drill and tap the pin tubes and add remote grease fittings. I hate problems, I see several with the design of this suspension and plan to rectify them as I go along. I keep my equipment years and years, I never go to repair shops on the road, so it's gotta be 100%.

So that all being said anymore feedback, the split pillow bearing idea is great but at 300 dollars a piece, I'd like to look for cheaper alternatives if possible.

While I know it's a waste of time all the reasoning in the world won't stop you so here it goes. Cut the rear bracket off the shaft at the weld. You probably have washers tacked on the linkage rods, so cut them loose and remove. The shaft should be able to come out now . instead of the pillow block , make one out of uhmw plastic and drill some holes for self threading bolts. You can get them in 5/16" and I believe 3/8" as well. On second thought, if you have the room on shaft length, make the uhmw pillow block and then saw it in half, making a split bearing. Uhmw realy doesn't need grease but you could drill and tap it for a grease fitting. Generally on this stuff less lube is better than more, since it tends to collect grit and become abrasive. 3/4" uhmw should be plenty for bearing material.

 

[thejudges69]

While I know it's a waste of time all the reasoning in the world won't stop you so here it goes. Cut the rear bracket off the shaft at the weld. You probably have washers tacked on the linkage rods, so cut them loose and remove. The shaft should be able to come out now . instead of the pillow block , make one out of uhmw plastic and drill some holes for self threading bolts. You can get them in 5/16" and I believe 3/8" as well. On second thought, if you have the room on shaft length, make the uhmw pillow block and then saw it in half, making a split bearing. Uhmw realy doesn't need grease but you could drill and tap it for a grease fitting. Generally on this stuff less lube is better than more, since it tends to collect grit and become abrasive. 3/4" uhmw should be plenty for bearing material.

Maybe if you owned it and did the maintenance 100% yourself and out of pocket, it wouldn't be a waste of time to you. But, thank you for the feedback. I didn't want to have to go to that extreme to completely remove the tube. it will however be my last resort and even though I don't want to remove it, I have no problem doing so.

 

[MJD1]

Maybe if you owned it and did the maintenance 100% yourself and out of pocket, it wouldn't be a waste of time to you. But, thank you for the feedback. I didn't want to have to go to that extreme to completely remove the tube. it will however be my last resort and even though I don't want to remove it, I have no problem doing so.

I don't think you will have to remove it if you cut the block in half. Just put the 2 halves in place, then bolt them on, provided there is enough of the slider shaft sticking out. If you do have to cut the end plate off, just use an angle finder level to match the orientation on the other end. If you do cut the end off, a bushing out of PVC pipe would probably take up any play between the shaft and the bore it passes thru. The Hendrickson replacement shafts come with the front assembled and the rear linkage plate to be welded on for installation.

 

[sberry]

Maybe if you owned it and did the maintenance 100% yourself and out of pocket, it wouldn't be a waste of time to you.

I been at this a long time. This is a case of emotion and some fear creeping in over practical logic.
That argument is about a feeling and not about the equipment. Its not much harder to fix down the line after it becomes a problem and given some service.

 

[thejudges69]

I been at this a long time. This is a case of emotion and some fear creeping in over practical logic.
That argument is about a feeling and not about the equipment. Its not much harder to fix down the line after it becomes a problem and given some service.

I'm not even sure what that means.

 

[sberry]

I replaced the ujoints and ball joints in my pickup with greasers. I didn't do it till they wore out though. I just replaced some oem non greasers on a tractor front end. While its easy to jump to the conclusion a zerk would have been better they are now failing, its a 1976 and now needing service. I could have been greasing them for 40 years, some others that did have them were replaced early on.

 

[sberry]

I'm not even sure what that means.

It means there is a difference between thinking something is a problem than it actually being one.

 

[homebuilt burner]

Judge: I have been working on truck for 30 years it shouldn't be a problem. That said I have looked through your build threads and I understand the level of quality you are looking for, the rest of your equipment is top notch from what I have seen and I get it. the idea of a making your own split bushing out of UHMW plastic seems to be the best to me. The plastic makes a good bearing surface, while not needing lubrication. In addition it will dampen the metal to metal contact. I would get a piece 3/4" to 1" and cut the correct size hole with a hole saw then slice the "doughnut" in half and bolt the two halves over the pipe. With a couple of bolts securing the "doughnut" to the frame.

Post up a couple of pictures of your solution please.