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I Need a double flaring tool that is worth a ****!!!!!!

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Fender1325

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Started with the $25 napa one. Works great on smaller nickle copper line, but the 5/16 regular steel line I had it would slip through the teeth, even clamped all the way tight.

Went back and upgraded to their $70 one. Ate the teeth off and its all lop sided and ****. Yes Im filing it to a perfect 90 degree cut, deburring, chamfering and all. The clamp sits cockeyed so I'll be returning this too.

I checked snap on's double flaring tool and its identical to the napa one even same price.

I know theres hydraulic ones for 2-300 bucks but Im just doing one car.

This doesnt need to be this complicated to make a tool that works!!!!!
 
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Jarhead0408

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Look on eBay. The generic oem version of the Eastwood tool goes for about $125 including shipping.

Most of the Eastwood branded tools are actually rebadged.
 
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kctyphoon

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I don't have one, but I've read that the Eastwood kits are suppose to be the best.. If you are using them a lot, then $200 doesn't seem like a huge expense.. If it's a once in a while tool, then cheaper seems more appropriate.

I have a cheap one I bought from Napa to make lines for my old truck.. The flares did not come out perfect, but realize that it's soft metal, and it will bend and conform to the fitting when you tighten them down upon install..

What I did to help my cheap set - I placed clamped a vise grip on both narrow ends of the blocks.. The jaws of them would span across the seem between them.. This way both blocks stay perfectly aligned with each other.. Neither can be a little too high, or shift a little low when you tighten the clamp to make the flares.. The dowels, or pins (whatever they are called) aren't made out of titanium either - so one more thing that can throw the flare off.. All mine worked out fine that way.. No leaks, but yea it's more of a PITA then it should be.
 
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Fender1325

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The rigid looks nice but Home Depot reviews are bad, 2 of which mention the tube slipping through the clamp. I almost might pony up for the eastman as that seems to get pretty excellent reviews across the board. I cant risk buying another flaring tool thats no good. I'll lose my ****** mind and sell this project car. And is a 56 coupe deville
 
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kctyphoon

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If you have a bench vise you can use that to hold the spilt block in line with each other.. Just FYI, (for anyone else reading) the Ridgid sold in the store by the pluming isle is not for brake lines.. It's a single flare tool, not a double.. You need a double for brake lines.
 
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jrobb316

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Fender1325 said:
The rigid looks nice but Home Depot reviews are bad, 2 of which mention the tube slipping through the clamp. I almost might pony up for the eastman as that seems to get pretty excellent reviews across the board. I cant risk buying another flaring tool thats no good. I'll lose my ****** mind and sell this project car. And is a 56 coupe deville
Click to expand...

Once you get the hang of it it's great. The issue is with 3/16, the bar is not serrated on that hole only. If you use the coated line it will slip. If you take your emery cloth when you dress the end and rough up the coating it's fine. Uncoated line does not slip. I've used the tool for years and done many whole vehicle lines with it and it gives me a perfect flare everytime. I've used the cheap ones and they ****, including HF. And yes you need the one for double flares which is the same tool it just comes with the dies.
 
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martin666

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Have the Cal Van 154 (metric ) and 164 ( sae ) sets and for under $50 I think they're great, have yet to let me down. Nice flares every time and easy to use
 
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Roberts210

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I went to O'Reilly's and borrowed one of their loaner flaring kits to double flare the brake lines on my '53 chevy. It worked great on the 1/4 inch lines, but then I tried to flare some 3/16ths stainless. In trying, I broke their nice new flaring kit. I took it back, expecting to pay for it, but they just shrugged and gave me another one to try. I broke it too. Took that one back--same thing--they shrugged and gave me a third one. But I then switched to an NiCu 3/16ths line and the 3rd kit double flared it just fine.
 
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Ditchdigger

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Another vote for the eastwood tool here. I have made new lines for 40 cars with it and it still delights me every time i use it.

Cunifer, steer and stainless are all a breeze with it. I will never go back.
 
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E.rodz

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i agree i have bought and used many different brands and always had 1 out of 4 flares would turn out good and 3/16 stainless was just a huge struggle. i bought one last year at back to the fifties car show and it is just like the eastwood one just a different color and guaranty that i spent way more than that throwing away mis flared lines and broken pucks after you add that kind of frustration into the mix. i wish i would have bought one years ago.
 
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allstarrme

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We have 2 hydraulic ones at work, one is mac branded and one that isn't, unless it's a very tight space we use them for everything.

We do replace a lot of brake lines at work though, at least once a month we get a car that needs several. For my own car I used stainless so I won't ever have to do it again, and only the hydraulic would work on stainless.
 
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Skin

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Up to you but both styles are handy to have. The Eastwood one essentially always needs to be bench mounted in a vise which is fine for new lines but not really the best choice when doing on vehicle repairs because of the space and force required to make a flare. The Mastercool hydraulic is nicer and can be either done on the bench or on the vehicle (space provided) since its not all manual but costs closer to $350.
 
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Pldbryan

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The hydraulic units are absolutely the best. I have borrowed one the last few times that I have needed one and have had zero bad flares. If I can not borrow it again the in the future, I will be buying one.

Brake lines are messy jobs and about the last thing you want to do is fight a leak. Hydraulic is the absolute way to go.
 
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barguy

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If you can find a USA Blue Point I recommend it. I have a USA Blue Point that I bought back around 1990. Used it probably 100 times or more on Bundy flex (steel). Works great, and never slips in the clamp. Is all the Blue Point stuff now import? If so, then totally different tool I would imagine.
 
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Jarhead0408

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DSM_PWR said:
that sounds great! could you post me a link?
Click to expand...

I went back and looked for you. It looks like they've raised the prices much closer to what the Eastwood unit sells for.

If I find it for a low price again I'll update the thread AND send you a pm with a link.
 
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sberry

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I have the blue point, its ok, one of the latch bolts broke, i fixed it but I spose a guy could warrant it if he was willing to wait, could buy a Rigid in meantime,,, ha
 
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xj31

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If you don't want to spend a lot, check out an inline flaring tool. They work really well. Also if your line is slipping on a regular flaring tool, it could happen if you tighten the wing nuts in the wrong order. Tighten the one closest to the line first, then the other one really clamps it in there.
 
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Fender1325

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Im gonna order the cal van inline one. That video sold me and for roughly 50 bucks its a good deal. It sure does SEEM fool proof. Corrects the main problem I had of the die coming down ****-eyed.
 
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theoldwizard1

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Give us a first hand report.


There is another video out there on YouTube where a guy had some "issues" with his Cal Van tool. One call to customer service and they sent him replacement parts.
 
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Fender1325

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A quick update: My NAPA guy has been very helpful through all this BS. I'm constantly over there for parts for my 56 cadillac I'm trying to ressurect from the dead.

I've come to realize a lot of these flare tool kits are made by one manufacturer and then rebranded 1000 times. I bought the 25 dollar NAPA one and it failed, as did the 70 dollar one. That one is IDENTICAL to the Snap On one. Even the price.

So being that I'm going to NAPA to return the first 2 flare tool kits I figured I'd check and see if they carry one like the Cal Van.

I found the Cal Van online for like 46 bucks plus shipping which was 60 bucks total. Napa has the IDENTICAL Cal Van one for like 100 bucks. I basically said if you can match it online I'll buy it from you. He wasn't too happy but said since I went through all the trouble with the first two he'd do it for 60. Everybody's happy.

I'll pick it up in a few hours and let everyone know.

On a side note, while at NAPA we verified that their NiCopp (nickel copper) line is safe to use on all systems - brake, trans cooler, oil, and gas. I used that for my vacuum line and its like butter to work with. The 5/16 steel line for my fuel is overly hard to work with. I vow never to use steel line again if I dont have to. The NiCopp is easier to work with and has superior corrosion resistance.
 
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LXCam

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Looks like you got a handle on the tool. I'm not sure where you're located but if you happen to be in SoCal and this doesn't do the trick you're more then welcome to use my mastercool set.

Cam
 
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LXCam

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Ya that might not work for an afternoon of shop bullshitting. :lol:
 
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Sticky Grips

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I have both an Eastwood vice mounted unit, and a Mastercool Hydraulic set. Well worth it for both.
 
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Parabellum

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Tighten wing nuts with a pliers and you won't have problems, I have a chiwan kit and it has worked fine. I will get rid of it someday for a USA one.
 
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theoldwizard1

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Fender1325 said:
On a side note, while at NAPA we verified that their NiCopp (nickel copper) line is safe to use on all systems - brake, trans cooler, oil, and gas. ... The NiCopp is easier to work with and has superior corrosion resistance.
Click to expand...

I don't know why ANYONE, especially DIYers, would ever use anything else !

NAPA is also selling brake line "lengths" with ends already installed o you don't have to buy a whole roll.
 
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