I need a quality reasonably priced multimeter.

[Evan(CA)]

I worked as a commercial and residential electrician for almost 5 years before go to school to become an auto tech. All our diagnostic tools were Ideal and usually paid for by the company. I'm looking for a some quality components that are tailored to automotive that will last without breaking the bank. Here is what I need

Multimeter and possibly a DSO. A combined unit would be fine as long as it's not too bulky. I will also definitely be picking up a PowerProbe 3.

Fluke is obviously the biggest out there but they haven so many models I don't even know where to begin searching for the meter that best suits my needs. I get SEP pricing as well but in my experience the SEP price on the truck brand products have been rebranded can be found cheaper elsewhere.

 

[CWP1616L]

Fluke is obviously the biggest out there but they haven so many models I don't even know where to begin searching for the meter that best suits my needs.

You said you wanted an automotive meter so that would make it the model 88. But it's gonna break the bank big time.

 

[zkling]

What features do you need? Budget?

 

[firebox40dash5]

I have an Extech EX520 I bought this summer, it's been great so far. Can't complain for $175 with a lead accessory kit. I just got a Powerprobe myself, and if I had it to do again, I'd consider buying an amp clamp/meter combo, since the probe will probably take over 1/2 of what I used to bust out my meter for. Plus you can hang it by the clamp.

 

[Hyster Gareth]

Yes a Fluke 88V is specifically made for automotive work. I believe a multimeter is one area you don't want to skimp on. I have an 88V and it is excellent.

You said you wanted an automotive meter so that would make it the model 88. But it's gonna break the bank big time.

 

[CWP1616L]

I have an Extech EX520 I bought this summer, it's been great so far.

That's the green and orange one, right? Not quite black but almost. Kind of like a grass stain green, right?

 

[Evan(CA)]

You said you wanted an automotive meter so that would make it the model 88. But it's gonna break the bank big time.

Is the Fluke 88 the only automotive specific meter they sell? No used older molders I could pick up cheaper? Those are 200 used and I'd really like to spend half of that if possible but if it's worth the extra 100 I'd be ok with spending it. I'll need to look up the specs on the 88 and see what it all does.

Are there any multimeters out there that also function as a DSO?

What features do you need? Budget?

It will be used for strictly automotive on a variety of makes and models. I'm getting a power probe III for sure and as well as a DSO unless I find a DSO/DMM combo. Budget is pretty flexible but 100 would be ideal. I don't mind buying used.

 

[firebox40dash5]

That's the green and orange one, right? Not quite black but almost. Kind of like a grass stain green, right?

Sounds about right, I haven't seen it in a couple weeks since the Powerprobe showed up. OK, not really. It's no Fluke, but so far I can't really fault it for the money. IMO unless you're doing very advanced drivability diagnostics, it's accurate enough.

If you are, you should be getting paid well enough to buy a very nice meter.

 

[nanofrog]

Is the Fluke 88 the only automotive specific meter they sell?

Yes.

Are there any multimeters out there that also function as a DSO?

Yes, but they're harder to use IMHO (small screens, no knobs, all push button), and may not last in an automotive environment. They're also quite expensive.

You'd likely be better off with separate units. Rigol would be a brand to look at for a DSO. Although it's made for bench work, they're rather portable (not big, nor weigh a ton). It will have a larger screen than a hand-held, which makes them a bit easier to see what's going on. It's also a lot less expensive.

Bottom end is the 1052E, and it can be hacked to 100Mhz. Run's ~$400 new.

As per a DMM, you might want to look into a company called Brymen. Built well, and offer a lot of value. Harder to find here in the US, but there are ways of getting them if you're interested. BM257 would be one to look at IMHO.

 

[CWP1616L]

Is the Fluke 88 the only automotive specific meter they sell?

The model 78 is the other one.

 

[theoldwizard1]

IMHO, people spend WAY TOO MUCH on multimeters ! You don't need to spend more than $30-$40 !

Buy one that has a rubber outer housing. A good set of leads and clips/adapters are much more important !!

 

[dowmace]

IMHO, people spend WAY TOO MUCH on multimeters ! You don't need to spend more than $30-$40 !

Buy one that has a rubber outer housing. A good set of leads and clips/adapters are much more important !!

When your meter stands between life and death like mine does you might want to buy a premium one.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk

 

[oldtools]

Here is one that won't break the bank. I don't own one so I can't really give you any review.

http://www.harborfreight.com/lcd-automotive-multimeter-with-tachometer-kit-95670.html

 

[Brownsfan]

I know some HATE Klein meters. But I have the MM2000 and CL200 I believe and they are AWESOME for the money. True RMS and the clamp is AC/DC amps. They have new versions that are USA made that just came out recently.
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-True-RMS-Digital-Multimeter-MM2000/202521275/
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-True-RMS-400-Amp-AC-DC-Digital-Clamp-Meter-CL2000/202266606/
I would also like to add I use both in a primarily automotive setting. All I do is automotive electrical and these meters are great. I used the clamp meter all the time when I had my shop(car audio) and used to see how many amps high powered audio systems would pull(200+ sometimes). Now all I do is remote starters aux lighting cruise controls and electrical repair. Also do complete wiring harness installs classics.

 

[CWP1616L]

Here you go. Right in your budget:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATD-Tools-5...on-Multimeter-Kit-FREE-SHIPPING-/350503364324

 

[nanofrog]

IMHO, people spend WAY TOO MUCH on multimeters ! You don't need to spend more than $30-$40 !

It would depend on what you need, and what you're doing.

Meters that actually meet their CAT ratings and have additional accuracy, features, or both tend to get more expensive fairly quickly, as they're unable to cut corners like they do on the cheapies.

There's an entire thread on this over on EEVBlog. For example, meters might claim something like CATIII/1000V or CATIV/600V, yet only have a 250V glass fuse/s. Even seen some that don't have fuses at all.

A good set of leads and clips/adapters are much more important !!

Good leads & accessories are a necessity in my experience as well.

 

[devoncoolman]

Fluke 87 hasent let me down yet. True rms for testing ac voltage sensors. Typically you want to use a scope for that but i get by most of the time with the 87 and its true rms capabilities.

 

[bcradio]

I just got a Powerprobe myself, and if I had it to do again.

Then????

 

[Brownsfan]

I just got a Powerprobe myself, and if I had it to do again.

A power probe was not meant to replace a multimeter. If you are doing electrical in a vehicle and had to choose the meter should always be the choice. My meter is always the first tool out of my box when doing anything electrical.

 

[scaron]

fluke all the way. this guide may help you make sense of all the different models:

http://www.ebay.com/gds/Fluke-Meters-Models-and-Series-main-/10000000007478323/g.html

i like the 70-series... i have a 70 and a 79 III... i think the 78 is the automotive meter in that line. if you select appropriately you can get like 95% of the features of the fluke 87 or 88 with a little less precision (and do you really need like four digits?) for maybe 50% of the cost, used.

tektronix and agilent are a few other really good brands in electronic test equipment to look out for. they made a lot of bench units but also sold a few nice, feature-rich hand held meters. you won't save much money versus a fluke, though.

my perspective as someone that was trained as an EE, you want a separate scope and meter; trying to combine the two tools is asking for an expensive compromise piece that won't ever be the best meter or the best scope... i've never been a big fan of 'scope meters'.

i'm not sure they're garage-appropriate but in the laboratory i'm a tektronix guy when it comes to scopes. i have a 222 portable and a big old 7000 series main frame. can't beat em. agilent technologies formerly known as hewlett packard also made a lot of decent scopes.

you can save a lot of money often buying these sorts of products used; good meters and scopes are high quality, robust products that are durable and, if taken care of and used properly, can provide decades of reliable service... don't feel like you have to buy new.

 

[theoldwizard1]

When your meter stands between life and death like mine does you might want to buy a premium one.

Kind of a broad statement.

I still do not believe that a $200 meter is really going to result in "life or death" over a $50 meter.


BTW, when was the last time you had your meter calibrated against a traceable standard ?

 

[dowmace]

Kind of a broad statement.

I still do not believe that a $200 meter is really going to result in "life or death" over a $50 meter.


BTW, when was the last time you had your meter calibrated against a traceable standard ?

My meters are calibrated once a year at tristate instruments. In fact they were calibrated two weeks ago.

If you don't believe it then you know nothing about the danger of electricity. I work on voltages ranging from 12v DC to 15kv AC.

Do you really believe a $50 meter when it comes to something that can effectively remove limbs from your body? A cheap meter won't differentiate between the voltage in the atmosphere at the substation and the line I am testing so I wouldn't be able to tell if it's energized or not. The risk is huge. The cost is minimal.

If you'll only ever use the meter for home use and auto sure a cheapo is fine but don't think that there is no difference.


Just curious what your work field is?

I've got ten years in high voltage work and a grand father that was a lineman. I have lost some very good friends to faulty equipment. This is a subject that is near to my conscience all the time and I never want someone who doesn't understand the risks believing that a few hundred bucks is worth their life.

Don't take me as being argumentative but as trying to be informative. You made a broad statement that a $50 meter is just as good as a $200 meter and its simply not true.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk

 

[Tarheelgarage]

Esi 597

 

[theoldwizard1]

My meters are calibrated once a year at tristate instruments. In fact they were calibrated two weeks ago.

If you don't believe it then you know nothing about the danger of electricity. I work on voltages ranging from 12v DC to 15kv AC.

You sir, have my utmost respect !

Do you really believe a $50 meter when it comes to something that can effectively remove limbs from your body? A cheap meter won't differentiate between the voltage in the atmosphere at the substation and the line I am testing so I wouldn't be able to tell if it's energized or not. The risk is huge. The cost is minimal.

For you kind of work, I would by the best I could find also.

If you'll only ever use the meter for home use and auto sure a cheapo is fine but don't think that there is no difference.

Well the OP did say "... some quality components that are tailored to automotive that will last without breaking the bank ...". My point was for that need to spend a lot of money to meet those requirements.

Just curious what your work field is?

Automotive, homeowner

I've got ten years in high voltage work and a grand father that was a lineman. I have lost some very good friends to faulty equipment. This is a subject that is near to my conscience all the time and I never want someone who doesn't understand the risks believing that a few hundred bucks is worth their life.

Don't take me as being argumentative but as trying to be informative. You made a broad statement that a $50 meter is just as good as a $200 meter and its simply not true.

In you line of work, no.

For "joe average" wanting to check voltage on his car battery or a alkaline battery or do a continuity test, even a $5-$10 HF meter is adequate. Heck, it might be better if it did not even have the capability to measure current because most people don't know how to do it correctly anyway.

 

[nicksnothereman]

I worked as a commercial and residential electrician for almost 5 years before go to school to become an auto tech. All our diagnostic tools were Ideal and usually paid for by the company. I'm looking for a some quality components that are tailored to automotive that will last without breaking the bank. Here is what I need

Multimeter and possibly a DSO. A combined unit would be fine as long as it's not too bulky. I will also definitely be picking up a PowerProbe 3.

Fluke is obviously the biggest out there but they haven so many models I don't even know where to begin searching for the meter that best suits my needs. I get SEP pricing as well but in my experience the SEP price on the truck brand products have been rebranded can be found cheaper elsewhere.

Buy what you know even if it ain't top notch stuff with 30 dollar fancy cases sold separately.

 

[Hootbro]

Maybe someone can answer this, how important is RMS functionality for a meter in automotive use?

 

[Tarheelgarage]

Maybe someone can answer this, how important is RMS functionality for a meter in automotive use?

You don't need true rms for automotive electrical

 

[cheechi]

I have an Extech 3310 or 3320, and a few months back a discussion on here someone mentioned this used Fluke. I bought one of these and the auto ranging works better than the Extech. A lot less jumping around if you know what I mean, especially looking for shorts you get a 0 or OL instead of 0.00009 or whatever. It is much easier to use than any less expensive meter I've had or used. I bought mine from that company through ebay, shipping turned out to be more expensive through the website than the ebay listing.

I don't know if it has all the features you need but I haven't found anything it won't do for me. Most people who own a meter don't know how to do everything it can do. I won't claim to know everything about it but from what I have tested the used one I got works just like its supposed to.

 

[Hootbro]

You don't need true rms for automotive electrical

That is what I thought. Thanks!

 

[kc-steve]

Maybe someone can answer this, how important is RMS functionality for a meter in automotive use?

You don't need true rms for automotive electrical

I agree. True RMS was intended to read the "root mean square" of an AC voltage reading.

Steve

 

[theoldwizard1]

I'll bet the "pros" will agree with me. A good set of QUALITY leads with all of the necessary clips, probes, etc. is just as important (maybe even more), APPROPRIATE FOR THE JOB AT HAND, as the best meter you can.

I spent more on this lead set from Pomona (owned by Fluke). I added some extra long leads, splices and extra alligators.

This is where having the "right tool for the job" IS important !

 

[kc-steve]

I'll bet the "pros" will agree with me. A good set of QUALITY leads with all of the necessary clips, probes, etc. is just as important (maybe even more), APPROPRIATE FOR THE JOB AT HAND, as the best meter you can. . . .

I agree, but I have made my own in the past ONLY because I know what I'm doing. A MAJOR problem occurs when the leads, clips and all are not rated to the same voltage RANGES of the meter. Example, when using any old wire to check voltage in the range of 1000v can be hazardous to your health.

Steve

 

[doodah man]

I've used an Amprobe 15XP-B meter at work (not automotive). It's just a basic multimeter but it's well built and has nice features including long leads and a magnetic hanger. They have an automotive model Amprobe AU92 that looks decent:

http://content.amprobe.com/DataSheets/AU92.pdf

 

[Nocturnal-G]

Anyone have experience with ESI multimeters? Particularly the 585 model...?

Seems like ESI has a good rep here.

 

[geojag]

I have a Wavetech that I found by the highway years ago and an Ideal that a friend gave me for my birthday a couple years ago. Can't speak on the price, but both of them have done all I have needed them to do. I like the Wavetech better.

 

[MLB0611]

After my DVOM, took a fall off a fender, I bought a Snap On EDD503D for 160 IIRR off the tool truck it is made by Lang for Snap On. no outranging etc. but good basic and accurate meter for Auto. FYI for anything real hard stuff I use a Verus Pro scope.

 

[Tarheelgarage]

Anyone have experience with ESI multimeters? Particularly the 585 model...?

Seems like ESI has a good rep here.

ESI are good meters and rebadge them under other names as well such as Bosch.

Model 597 amd 595 are their automotive grade.

 

[joel63]

After my DVOM, took a fall off a fender, I bought a Snap On EDD503D for 160 IIRR off the tool truck it is made by Lang for Snap On. no outranging etc. but good basic and accurate meter for Auto. FYI for anything real hard stuff I use a Verus Pro scope.

The Snap On EEDM504D is the auto ranging version of the EEDM503D.
I have had one for 3 years and have found it to be an excellent meter for
automotive use and HVAC servicing.
I liked it so much that I bought another one from Ebay.
The fuses are a little pricey should you ever need to replace them.

 

[zkling]

Maybe someone can answer this, how important is RMS functionality for a meter in automotive use?

Nada I guess, and actually Flukes "Automotive" meter the 88 is a non RMS meter. IIRC. I wonder why they did this.

Evan, without knowing more about what you want to do, I will stand by my recommendations that I almost always give.

Fluke 27FM for budget basic meter
Fluke 87 IIRC GM specs this as their standard meter. It won't directly read RPM or something else.

 

[richfinn]

With all due respect to the guys discussing high levels of protection versus cost, I will attempt to put my own spin on it.

I look for certain features on an Automotive meter before I consider safety and cost
(This is assuming your not working on Hybrids etc). Basically your going to be using it for 12v DC the majority of the time and in series Amps measurement up to a max of 20A.

1. You need a backlight for auto work (Fluke 70 don't have one)

2. Min/Max record is a must

3. A bar graph is good

4. Temp measurement is useful

5. DC current up to 20A or a DC current probe

6. Fast updating/ large clear LCD display

7. Good holster with a decent bail stand

8. Easy to replace fuses

9. Quality switchgear and function buttons

10. Millisecond pulse width function is much better than other automotive gimmicks like dwell/RPM

11. Frequency in hZ is good for certain signals

The beauty of Flukes is that they are tough and well made and have good features on basic models for what I think a fair price.

Some cheaper meters are just garbage, although you will mostly get reliable results on 12v DC but bits will fall off and the slow screen will miss glitches.

Match the meter to your skill level but don't cheap out too much (get something that's nice to use, like all tools if you like it you use it more and get better at it).