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I need a router.

L.Cheapo

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I used the search function, went back five pages, and the best I could find was a year and a half old thread that didn't have much in it.

I need a router. I'm not much of a woodworker. I can do it, but I don't like doing it. But I have a project coming up and a router is the only sane way to do it. I'll be using a rabbeting bit on probably 30' of lumber.

In the future, I may need it again. If I do, I'd like to use a halfway decent machine. Not looking to be the next Norm Abram, but I prefer decent tools. I'm partial to Yellow, since thats what all my other power tools are and there's a factory store/service center within 10 minutes of my house. But I'm not set on it.

Do I need "2 1/4" hp? Is "1 3/4" enough? I understand I probably want a 1/2" collet.

Suggestions/tips/heckling always appreciated. Thanks!
 
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MBfreak

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I use a 15 year old Bosch unit, 1,5 hp, 6,8 and 10 mm collets , the 6 also clamps 1/4".
Speed control 5-20 krpm, have installed a depth adjustment tweak on one of the posts with 0,1 mm increment accuracy.
Totally stable and I use it for demanding guitar work.
I have also used the motor part loose from the mounting part.
8 mm carbide burrs, perfect to shape metal free hand at 20krpm.

Ola
 

mike93lx

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how big of a rabbet? i'd consider a 1/4" collet trim router. they're lighter, useful for tons of project and are perfectly capable of a one-time project like you are talking about.
 

cherrybomb

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I have the 1/4 Dewalt trim router.I have the plunge base,and regular base.I recently purchased the edge guide.Unless you plan on a bigger router to mount in a table,this router is the one I use most frequently. It has good features,and is not so big and powerful that you feel you can't contol it.The price is also very reasonable and Dewalt builds good stuff.I wish I would of purchased long ago,instead of fighting with my bigger one.Very capable,sounds like what you need IMO.
 

RKA

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You’re right, a 1/2” collet would give you more flexibility (and those machines will have a 1/4” collet as well). You can get just about any style of bit with a 1/2” shank. The more meat you want to hog out in a single pass, the more the thin necks on 1/4” bits become a liability. I wouldn’t differentiate too much between the 1.75 vs 2.25 hp variable speed units. Both fall into a medium power range for routers. They have enough weight to remain stable plowing a 3/4” dado without being unwieldy like a 3+ hp unit. It’s a good choice for a first or only router. And if you later decide to put it in a router table, that’s not an issue. Dewalt makes good routers, so you’re good there if that’s your preference. I would recommend you get a kit with a plunge base or make sure you can later buy a plunge base if the need arises. For now, the fixed base might work, but the plunge base adds options. Also get an edge guide if it’s not included with a kit you’re getting.

The small 1.25hp trim routers are great, and Dewalt makes some of the best imho. But even with all the accessories available, I would recommend them as a second router. Too many operations require multiple passes so you don’t break the bit and the lighter weight and smaller base can make the tricky to handle if you decide to take a bigger bite. They do have a good amount of power though. Never found them lacking there...for any task I would use a 1/4” shank bit.
 

BigGarage

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I used the search function, went back five pages, and the best I could find was a year and a half old thread that didn't have much in it.

I need a router. I'm not much of a woodworker. I can do it, but I don't like doing it. But I have a project coming up and a router is the only sane way to do it. I'll be using a rabbeting bit on probably 30' of lumber.

Do I need "2 1/4" hp? Is "1 3/4" enough? I understand I probably want a 1/2" collet.

Suggestions/tips/heckling always appreciated. Thanks!

I do not know what you need but this is what I have and I only use it to rout 3/4" grooves in 2"x 12"s to make garage shelves. It works great.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-...Vmh-tBh3XGAOAEAQYASABEgIIo_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I have a router table you can have if you come get it. It would save me the trouble/space of putting it in the attic till I die. It even has a router attached to it. I think it's a Craftsman. The bits were always coming loose in it so I bought the Rigid and never looked back.

Dennis
 

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exmaxima1

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Just don't buy a Craftsman, Wen, or Ryobi router. Pretty much all the others are fair game: Bosch, Ridgid, Milwaukee, or vintage Porter-Cable (USA).
 
OP
L

L.Cheapo

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Thanks, folks. I need to do a 3/8" deep rabbet 3/16" wide. I was looking at the 1 3/4 and 2 1/4hp kits from Dewalt with the 1/2 and 1/4" collets, router, plunge base and carry bag. Sounds like it might be a bit overkill for this project, but will work and allow for future tasks. Thanks again!
 
OP
L

L.Cheapo

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I do not know what you need but this is what I have and I only use it to rout 3/4" grooves in 2"x 12"s to make garage shelves. It works great.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-...Vmh-tBh3XGAOAEAQYASABEgIIo_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I have a router table you can have if you come get it. It would save me the trouble/space of putting it in the attic till I die. It even has a router attached to it. I think it's a Craftsman. The bits were always coming loose in it so I bought the Rigid and never looked back.

Dennis

Thanks for the offer. I get to DET once or so a year, and we've already been there this year, so it might be quite a while until next time. Much appreciated though!
 

Downwindtracker 2

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Bosch 1617. Buy one once. Porter Cable is a cheaper line than the B&D's good line, DeWalt . There will be many who suggest the Porter Cable 690, don't do it, they are made in Mexico now . In Lowes they were the same price as the 1617 and are half the router. I have both. I got a great deal on my new 690, but it's just a disposable that replaced a Craftsman in my fleet.

My main router is a DeWalt 625, a truly great router. I have a Porter Cable laminate router, it's the same one that B&D sells in yellow housing now.
 

Marctrees

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L.Cheapo -

Yellow is fine.

Little trim one or bigger will do what you need.

Cutters -

Rabbet ? get a bearing guided straight flute cutter... the larger diameter the smoother cut.

Like a 3/4" cutter for a full size router... 1/2" for trim router.

Dado ? - get a 3/16" spiral upcut bit for your purpose... NOT a straight flute bit.

If Dado, May help removing side shield(s) and have a helper blow out chips as you rout.

Do outside... huge mess.

Really, if you are not interested in wworking, have a buddy do it for a twelve pack.

Marc
 
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dogdog

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Router wise, get the Craftsman Professionals if they still have them those "red" ones.. I have two and absolutely love them... fine piece of machine.. very well balanced.. It can cut a circle and depth very precise...

this in red color was what I have...
https://www.sears.com/craftsman-12-...EARS&prdNo=3&blockNo=3&blockType=G3#Imagezoom



PortaCable and Ridgid was my next choice... people like Bosche ... . I think dewalt also have a good one... not sure..

Best way is to feel it by holding it, it should be well balanced on your hand... ..

If you are getting one, get one that comes with a "fixed" base and "plunge" base... most of the time, you'll use the plunge base a lot more, at least in my case... fix base is good for outside edges...


usually when you are using routers to cut something deep... you cut in steps like a circle with a circle jig.. so get one that have a steps adjustment... it is a plunge base... but it have a step knob that can divide your depths in quarters (4ths) so you can reach your full desire depth in 4 pass instead of trying to gorilla it in one...
 
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lilredex

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metaldad

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nw indiana
never been a true fan of yellow. gets dirty and stays dirty.
have a bosch 1617, and USA made pony
pc 690
and a red one that just wont die. gotta be close to 50 years old
a small laminate trimmer type will suffice for the job described, 2 pass
 
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MFolks

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Feb 3, 2013
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Springfield Mo.
I have an old 3 HP Makita plunge, that when turned on will need to be held tight,the torque is unreal,came with a 1/2" collet and has others to go down to 1/4".
 

dogdog

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I have that same one HF router., problem with that is the thing moves once you set depth, if you don't tighten that plastic things ...and a little louder, vibrates more than the other more expensive ones like the Ridgid or Bosch but it is great little router for it's price and function...
 

ItsNemo

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Mar 5, 2016
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Canada
Dewalt DW618PK is what I got, it's been outstanding, good bang for the buck when you pick it up with two bases and case and such. Add in an edge guide and you're good to go.
 

joe_pinehill1

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Feb 23, 2013
Messages
537
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Northern Virginia
I use a 15 year old Bosch unit, 1,5 hp, 6,8 and 10 mm collets , the 6 also clamps 1/4".
Speed control 5-20 krpm, have installed a depth adjustment tweak on one of the posts with 0,1 mm increment accuracy.
Totally stable and I use it for demanding guitar work.
I have also used the motor part loose from the mounting part.
8 mm carbide burrs, perfect to shape metal free hand at 20krpm.

Ola

I have the same Bosch. I used it to make custom millwork for all the venestrations on the house we built in 2001
 
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unisawone

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Owatonna, Mn.
Best all around router has got to be the Porter Cable 690, I have a bunch of them and love them. I also have Bosch and have repaired many brands but believe the 690 is the best. Good luck
 

speed bump

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I have a 2-1/4 hp Craftsman router and a DeWalt 611PK. The Craftsman has done everything I have asked of it but is starting to smell like it is dieing. The 611PK I wish I would have waited 4 months until the cordless version came out. It's a decent router but it lacks a dust collector port out of the box so I don't use it alot.
 

MushCreek

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I've had a crappy little Craftsman 1/4" router for about 40 years. About 2 years ago, I bought a Bosch 1617 with the fixed and plunge bases. Wow- what a difference a good router makes! I leave the Craftsman in a homemade router table with a chamfer bit for chamfering boards.
 

gnpenning

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I have more questions than answers.
Do you want to buy new or would you be happy with used? Routers are something someone either uses or they don't. You can find used ones that are basically brand-new for a huge discount. Like others here I have several some in tables and others handheld including a trim router. Since I have most of the accessories I need it's been awhile since I've checked but the PC 690 was well represented. I have 2 never a issue with them, for that matter the other brands I have no issues as well.

I have an friend that borrowed my Makita. His wife bought him a Bosch for his birthday, kept using the Makita until I went and picked it up. The Bosch is a great unit, the Makita was easier to handle for what he was doing.

For what you are talking about I would use my PC 690.
 

tarmy

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Where you live OP...?

I have a very little used Porter Cable...with plunge attachment I can make you a deal on...it has just been sitting in my cabinet fir 5 years...PM me if you are interested. I ended up getting a Festool router because of the vacuum attachment...
 

manwithtools

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Older Porter Cable 690 will do nearly anything you need. Check local listings or eBay, you may find a real deal. I've got a couple that are 30 plus years old and they have been used hard.

Just checked local Craigslist - PC 690 $60, looks like an older one which is good.
 
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Empty Pockets

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I have a Porter Cable model 100. it's a 7/8 hp unit. Sadly, they have quit making that model. They are readily available on line (used). These little tools are virtually indestructible and parts are plentiful and available.

Failing that the Porter Cable 690 is a little bit more powerful at 1 3/4 horsepower, but is also a good dependable unit.
 

tarbellb

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Best palm router - Ridgids, hands down.

Good full size- new Bosch or vintage USA anything.

Features to def look for-
variable speed
soft start
plunge + fixed base
 

BukitCase

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I know you said you're cheap, but do you already have a table saw of any kind? That 30' of rabbet would take you less time than finding (and less $ accomplishing) on nearly ANY table saw than a router. An 1/8" blade, one pass; move the fence 1/16", run it again, DONE... Steve

Even if you bought a box joint blade set for it, 'bout the same cost and easier to control unless you ALSO bought a $$$ table for the router.

Oh, and I'm NOT tryin' to talk you out of a router, not that hypocritical; 3 router tables with lifts, 4-5 more freehand, various bases, probly $800 or more in bits, etc...
 
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OP
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L.Cheapo

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I know you said you're cheap, but do you already have a table saw of any kind? That 30' of rabbet would take you less time than finding (and less $ accomplishing) on nearly ANY table saw than a router. An 1/8" blade, one pass; move the fence 1/16", run it again, DONE... Steve

Even if you bought a box joint blade set for it, 'bout the same cost and easier to control unless you ALSO bought a $$$ table for the router.

Oh, and I'm NOT tryin' to talk you out of a router, not that hypocritical; 3 router tables with lifts, 4-5 more freehand, various bases, probly $800 or more in bits, etc...

:lol_hitti

I'm not cheap, really. I'm a fan of irony. I do have a table saw. I did the first of three projects with it and it was a huge pain in the ***. It's complicated and not a standard type thing. Each piece is different. I mumbled to myself "I'd have this done in a fraction of the time with a router. I need a router."

I already ordered the bit, Freud 32-524. I'll pick up the router when I get home.

Where you live OP...?

I have a very little used Porter Cable...with plunge attachment I can make you a deal on...it has just been sitting in my cabinet fir 5 years...PM me if you are interested. I ended up getting a Festool router because of the vacuum attachment...

NYC area. But I need it by Thursday. Thanks for the offer though. I've had a chance to get my hands on a few different routers in various Lowes and HDs in my travels and I'm leaning toward the DW618 that one poster mentioned above.

Thanks to all for your contributions.
 

manwithtools

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You are so correct that a router is better suited for this than a table saw, particularly if the wood pieces are more than about 3 feet long. The nice thing about the router approach is the rabbet will be the same size everywhere, even if the stock is bowed.

Using a table saw, the rabbet depth and width can be influenced by the straightness of the stock. Not to mention how unwieldy it can be to handle long stock unless you happen to have a power feeder.

I like your choice of router bits for this. The multiple pilot bearings allow several different sized rabbets from one bit.
 
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dogdog

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:lol_hitti

I'm not cheap, really. I'm a fan of irony. I do have a table saw. I did the first of three projects with it and it was a huge pain in the ***. It's complicated and not a standard type thing. Each piece is different. I mumbled to myself "I'd have this done in a fraction of the time with a router. I need a router."

I already ordered the bit, Freud 32-524. I'll pick up the router when I get home.



NYC area. But I need it by Thursday.
Thanks for the offer though. I've had a chance to get my hands on a few different routers in various Lowes and HDs in my travels and I'm leaning toward the DW618 that one poster mentioned above.

Thanks to all for your contributions.

if you a re in NYC area and have $$$$ to blow maybe consider a festool ?

https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/



https://www.google.com/maps/uv?hl=e...hUKEwixl4y7-Y_kAhUOZN8KHQxTAuIQoiowE3oECAsQBg
 

manwithtools

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If you are tempted to get the Festool, be sure to get one of the dust extractors too. Then you can experience nearly sawdust free routing as well.
 

couch67

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Ontario Canada
makita 3 1/4 (or is it 3 1/2) plunge router. Awesome router highly recommended. Great for a table, but can be used for hand routing as well.
 
OP
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L.Cheapo

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56 minute drive for me currently. I don't go to the city unless I'm forced to. I have a HD 5 minutes away. $1000 for a tool I may use only once for about an hour is a bit overkill, even for me. :lol_hitti

You are so correct that a router is better suited for this than a table saw, particularly if the wood pieces are more than about 3 feet long. The nice thing about the router approach is the rabbet will be the same size everywhere, even if the stock is bowed.

Using a table saw, the rabbet depth and width can be influenced by the straightness of the stock. Not to mention how unwieldy it can be to handle long stock unless you happen to have a power feeder.

I like your choice of router bits for this. The multiple pilot bearings allow several different sized rabbets from one bit.

Thanks. Several of the pieces are 5' long. Those were a pain on the table saw. And there may be some curved pieces ahead too. Not getting those done on a table saw. There have been a few times in the past I "could have used" a router. This is just the kick in the pants I needed to finally get one. :beer:
 

RKA

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If you’re south of the city and feel like a taste of the dustless Festool poison, send me a PM. I can lend you some toys.
 
OP
L

L.Cheapo

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Just as closure:

I went with the Dewalt 618 kit, plunge and normal router and the Freud bit. I used it yesterday and both are awesome. I did twice as much work in half the time the table saw took last time. The soft start feature is really nice. Very happy with this setup, even though I may never use it again. :lol_hitti

Thanks again, GJ'ers.
 

catron44

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CT
Just as closure:



I went with the Dewalt 618 kit, plunge and normal router and the Freud bit. I used it yesterday and both are awesome. I did twice as much work in half the time the table saw took last time. The soft start feature is really nice. Very happy with this setup, even though I may never use it again. [emoji38]_hitti



Thanks again, GJ'ers.
I know I'm late to the party, but I want to say I bought this in a 3 base kit in 2004 and it is my favorite router by far (I have about 7). The D handle is great. Once you realize you need a trim router, the dewalt trim with the plunge base is great too.

We have the festool at work. The ratcheting collet is awesome and it's a fine router but not worth the cost IMO.

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