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I need help deciding...

J-man67

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 10, 2012
Messages
218
Location
Delaware
I have been a lurker on here for some time. I believe I shared the 2.5 car garage I used to own in the past and have been drooling over everyone's shops here since. Anyway, I have since sold that house and found one that suits my families needs more. Anyway, I have been here for almost 2 years and its finally time to put my dreams on paper and begin the process. It took almost 2 years to get this property listed as agricultural. I have just over the minimum of 5 acres and now I can basically build whatever I want. I have been saving for this shop for some time and was just about ready, UNTIL my wife dropped this idea on me. All of this time I have been planning on this shop going out back. I liked the idea of some privacy, but more concerned with noise/smells and such. I planned on a 60x50x16 pole barn with a concrete pad and a new driveway from it, to the front, connecting to existing driveway. My wife and I were in our driveway the other day and out of nowhere she looks up at the house attached garage, then over the driveway pad and suggests just building a shop off the existing std 2 car garage. I looked up and the ideas started flowing again. This idea occurred to her as we are having the roof, siding, and windows done soon. She suggested we build/tie it in, then do the roof, siding, and windows together with the addition. Her only want is to match the front roof line across the building. Then I am thinking I can do less pitch/dormer from the peak to the rear for maximum height. 2 post lift is TOP of my list once the concrete is cured and need the overhead space as I will be working on my company vehicles and most have ladder racks and such. Obviously, I will be paying more on concrete/asphalt for the rear idea, plus grading, minor tree removal, but other than that, what are your thoughts?

Rear would be pole building, whereas front would be stick-built to tie into the house. The front area is already flat as its a driveway pad. The notch on front foundation is around the septic lids, then drain field goes back along inside fence line. I know I will have to remove the asphalt, re-grade, then re-pour, so costs MAY be similar, but not certain. Also, I know I should just call some contractors and get some quotes, but wanted to get some thoughts from the guys that may have had to make a similar decision as I continue to mull over this plan.

THANKS!


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andyvh1959

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Joined
Feb 15, 2020
Messages
2,590
Location
Green Bay WI
Nice chunk of land you have there. The shop out back is a neat idea for privacy like you said. But being that far from the house means things like: fridge for refreshments, convection oven for pizzas (mandatory), which means you'll likely need bathroom facilities (you have lots of trees for the liquid stuff) or walk to the house when the real "pressure" is on. If a shop bathroom is in the plans, can you tie it to your current septic (assuming its not on city sewer). If not, would you need to plan and pay for a septic system for the shop? Rainy days means a wet walk to the shop. Same for late night "oh, right, gotta run out to the shop to check on....." Same for security, lights, locks, etc. These days capable inexpensive security cameras takes care of that need.

If you position the shop as an add-on to the house, then you'll have bathroom and shower within a short walk. Same for refreshments/food. Same for security. No rainy wet walks out to the shop. Middle of the night in PJs out to the shop is an option. If you attach the shop to the house then you'll have to add costs for a full foundation (pending your location and codes).

When I built a seven car garage at my previous house I was limited to 900 sqft as a detached garage in the small city I lived in. But,...if I built it "attached" I could go as big as I wanted as long as it fit within setbacks, etc. I asked the city inspector if a covered walkway attached to the house and to the garage would qualify as "attached" but without the need for full foundations, etc. He said it would if I provided an architechs plan. I designed a connection for the walkway roof structure that attached solidly to the house, but then attached at the side of the garage to allow for the garage slab to "float" up and down without affecting the garage wall. Architect review cost me $100, I did the drawings (drafting background) city approved it and I got my building permit. So I got a 16' long walkway roof between my garage and the back of the house, but the garage was built on a slab. I lived in east central Wisconsin and after seven years had no issues with the slabs that were pinned and extensions of the original small garage slab. Even on rainy or snowy days I could walk from the house back door to the garage.
 

jack stand

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Joined
Feb 29, 2012
Messages
3,323
Location
Lakes Region Maine
It's always nice to not be concerned about the appearance from the street and it might actually be a negative (vs hidden out back) if you were ever to sell.
No matter the architecture, it's very difficult to make/disguise a big building to "fit in" as part of the house.
 

cvairwerks

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Joined
Aug 12, 2016
Messages
7,204
Location
Within hearing distance of Texas Motor Speedway
Before you commit one way or the other, you need to asses what both possibilities are going to do to your property taxes and insurance. It could be a wash, but it could also drive a lot of extra requirements if attached to the house. Much better to have those conversations now, before committing to a plan.
 

kngelv

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Joined
May 25, 2011
Messages
2,225
Location
Detroit, MI
If you do the attached make sure you have a front and back garage door so you have a path to the rear of your property.

James
 

Kaizen

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Joined
Jan 9, 2015
Messages
6,948
Location
New England
I know you just moved here but if you ever were going to sell you have to think about how it looks. That big of a shop appendage i think would look awkward. I'd go out back simply so you can do what you want when you want. Example impact gun, spraying paint, etc.
I know it was her idea but the first time you wake her up its gonna be your idea. I'd definitley have an experienced site person go out and dig in several places to verify soil. Moving the new garage around might save big money in excavation and fill.
 

dave*99

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Joined
May 5, 2009
Messages
4,258
Location
Coastal NJ
Make or have made some elevation drawings. You will have a better idea of the scale of the new and old structures.
I’m guessing you will prefer the new building away from the house.
Some 3d renderings would be powerful.
 

dave*99

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Joined
May 5, 2009
Messages
4,258
Location
Coastal NJ
Siting it are the rear of the property would give me an excuse to buy a golf cart. Or an ATV or both.
 
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Copymutt

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Joined
Sep 3, 2016
Messages
3,387
Location
Colorado
I prefer detached simply for the potential shop hazards. Unattended tool chargers, battery maintainers, grinding sparks, welding splatter etc. all increase the fire potential. I’ll keep the residence seperate.
 

CraigStu

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Joined
May 22, 2014
Messages
4,018
Location
Blacksburg, Va
I much prefer attached for all the reasons mentioned above. But, dang your house will look like it is a mile wide. I'd look at trying to turn it 90 degrees and extend it back towards the pool so the overall width is less.
 

Fixr

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Joined
Dec 23, 2012
Messages
9,702
Location
SW VA
My garage is directly attached. It's very convenient, but it really ***** when I'm doing things that make smoke or odors. Gasoline aroma is just not that pleasant permeating the house, especially when it's old green varnish, and of course there's increased fire risk with welding, tool battery chargers, vehicle repairs, etc... I would prefer semi-detached with a covered fireproof breezeway. That won't happen short of a large surprise inheritance, so I will make do.
 

CraigStu

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Joined
May 22, 2014
Messages
4,018
Location
Blacksburg, Va
Fixr to help out w/ 2 of your concerns. 1- I made up a timer and an outlet for my tool battery chargers. Get a large 2 gang blue outlet box. Put a twist the knob timer in one side w/ a cord to plug it into a wall outlet. Wire it inside the box to power a standard double outlet. Plug your charger into this outlet. Twist it up to 60 minutes to charge your tool battery. This isn't a 100% fix but it does reduce risk as the charger only has power for an hour.
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2- Upgrade to a Tig welder. You still need to be careful of heat but there are no sparks flying.
 

My Old Tools

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Jun 4, 2014
Messages
5,432
Location
Hamrick Lake, TX
I would go out back, but not that far. I would set off to the side of the pool and design it so future owners could convert it to a pool house/party barn/casita. Looks like the neighbors all have accessory buildings to the rear.
 
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