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I want a giant rolling table

Tscott

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Keystone Heights, FL.
I want to build a giant rolling table, something maybe 4'x8', to use as a sort of big rolling bench to move around the shop. Something I can lay new parts out on during assembly to keep them organized and off my dirty work benches. I'd like to see it be almost a clean area in the shop where I could work on things like upholstery that are easily scuffed or damaged. I'm thinking it should have drawers or cabinets built into both sides and maybe even a long deep shelf through its length to store long supplies seat fabric or something similar. I'd make it the same height as a table saw cabinet I want to build so it could be used as a out feed table for sheet goods. I'm thinking a heavy wooden top with maybe a sacrificial overlay for wood working. Perhaps I could even make a removable fabric cover for parts layout and upholstery work?

Anyone ever built or seen anything similar? I know I could build it and design as I go, but I find it's easier to start with at least a picture or some sort of plan.

Tom
 
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Tscott

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Something like this would be great. Perhaps I should just make my table saw part of it and eliminate my plans for another dedicated table saw cabinet?
 

Toomanytools?

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Nov 4, 2010
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Pretty easy to design , but I hear you I also like a visual to get an idea. If you have ever seen the show "Gearz" with Stacy David he has a nice 4x8 rolling table, here is a Utube with some glimpses of it. You can see it in the first few minutes in the back. I didn't watch the whole video might be there again.
Jeff
 

king nero

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Belgium
I plan on making one, heavy and big enough to use as a welding table and with casters strong enough to put a car on (when changing drive trains or similar work on my lift, so I can lower the car onto this table, roll away the table + car and use the lift for other cars).
 

Silvercbr

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Ankeny, Iowa
I know mine isn't 4x8, but rather 2x8, but I used two gladiator cabinets as the base and built the top on it. The casters that came with the cabinets allow me to move the bench.
 

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csp

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Franktown, CO
Mine is around 4' x6'. It's a butcher block top from a high school shop class that i took off of the metal cabinets it was sitting on and placed on top of the tubular steel frame I built. I don't have any pictures of the final product, but here is one of the top and one of the frame. The bottom of the frame has been braced with steel connecting the legs since the picture was taken.
 

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jlckmj

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Like this?
Size is roughly 4 x 7. The top is 1 inch thick melamine type sheet that is set in to the framing so it is flush on top.

I had two in my old shop, but this shop is not large enough. The other table had extrusions around the edge to use as hold downs for assembling face frames etc.

I was always going to finish the bottom part, but at this point I doubt I ever will, it has been around a while like this.

<a href="http://s188.photobucket.com/user/jlckmj/media/LYMAN%20GARAGE/CopyofLymanGarage008.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z16/jlckmj/LYMAN%20GARAGE/CopyofLymanGarage008.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo CopyofLymanGarage008.jpg"/></a>
 

tomroblee

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Jan 11, 2006
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Indiapolis, IN
My wife is a quilter and wanted a large work table for her sewing room at our county home. The sewing room is on the second floor, so moving a 4' x 8' x 3' complete unit was going to be an issue.

I ended up finding a Craiglist bargain from a small business. The business owner had purchased several commercial shelving units that were 4' x 8' and 7' tall. He had cut the uprights to workbench height (about 36") and made two work tables with a lower shelves out of them. I bellieve that the shelves were rated at 1000# load capacity each. I bought two of these units---one for my wife's sewing room and one for a work table in the garage.


A person could build in dividers or drawer units to set on the lower shelf. My wife chose to just use some various storage units that she bought at one of the box stores. For her, this turned out well since she changed her mind about the organization several times and it was easy to move storage units around.

The previous owner had used melamine covered 4' x 8' sheets of particle board for the shelves and top. We continued to use these since they were in good shape. Our units don't have casters, but it shouldn't be a major issue to add them. Just as a comment---these units are not light weight when loaded!!!

I don't know the brand of our units, but this is a link to a similar unit

http://www.aw-supplies.com/industri...inchesw-x-48-inchesd-x-84-inchesh-p-1897.html
 

Skep18

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Jan 21, 2013
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The South
Made this for my garage. Been great. Table top is reenforced by some steel strips and the top is boxed in. Great workbench, very heavy duty.

One Project Closer - How to Build a Heavy Duty Workbench

workbench.jpg
 
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astroracer

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Jun 22, 2005
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Mid_Michigan
I built a pair of chassis jig tables. I built the chassis for the Astro Van Project on them...
They are also used to hold most of my metal working tools. I made several different tops for them and just switch them out when the need arises. Being two separate tables makes them easy to store and move around.
10866064561.jpg

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19jn05-jigtable-1.JPG

7421jn05-mock-up_4-med.jpg

7427au05-uprail-fitup-4-med.jpg

Here is a pic with the van chassis well on it's way.
MVC010F-vi.jpg

And another with an OSB top and the wiring harness all spread out... :)
MVC002F-vi.jpg
 
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Highbeam

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Feb 15, 2011
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Mt Rainier foothills, WA
I have the same desire. A rolling work bench, might as well be 4x8. Four big casters. Strong enough to mount a vice. Being mobile means I can have it out in the middle of the shop when working on big stuff for excellent light and walk around ability and then when I'm done shove it against the wall to save space.
 

rsanter

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Dec 22, 2007
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visalia ca
If you are a woodworker I would build it with the table saw and a shaper or router table on opposite corners but able to use the same fence
On the back side I would incorperate one or two of the 41'' HF toolboxes for storage.
The area between the table saw and the shaper would be open shelf storage and you can still have storage for long thin items in the middle through the lenth of it

Bob
 

firecracker

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Mar 16, 2013
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Lancs UK
I am going to build a table on castors so I can move around the garage, rather than stuck against a wall, this is a fantastic idea. Thanks guys.
 

mtnwalton

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Apr 25, 2010
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I ran a scene shop for years and rolling tables are a necessary part of that environment. Even with the small space I now have almost every tool or bench is on wheels. We had two 4 x 16 wheeled tables just for building large flats, then rolling them to the assembly area. Also several smaller ones for dedicated use. We had one 4 x 14 steel top for the welding and metalwork. I was lucky, having a shop and storage space with 18,000 sf. Its hard to beat the flexibility and uses you'll find after you switch over.
 
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Tscott

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Location
Keystone Heights, FL.
If you are a woodworker I would build it with the table saw and a shaper or router table on opposite corners but able to use the same fence
On the back side I would incorperate one or two of the 41'' HF toolboxes for storage.
The area between the table saw and the shaper would be open shelf storage and you can still have storage for long thin items in the middle through the lenth of it

Bob

I am not really a wood worker, but I find they typically have the best layouts when they build stuff like this. I do think I will look into making the table saw part of it, but I really have no need for a router table with as little real woodworking as I do.

I've not seen exactly what I am after, so far the link I posted is the closest with jlckmj's table coming in a close second. Although as he stated it could use drawers or cabinets beneath it.

Tom
 

rharman

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Apr 22, 2012
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SoCal
Check the Family Handyman site. They've published a few variations of this type of table over the years.
 

Big Rick

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Oct 3, 2010
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Billings Mt
watch out for getting to tall it will be hard work on I had 38" tall 4'x8' ended up splitting lowered to 24". Made upholstery work a lot easyr I love it for tacking up welded jobs. 1/4 masinite top for tacking the two tables clamp to gather casters one end I use a floor jack to move. I move it out side and cover with a tarp shop space cool.
 
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ZRX61

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Aug 15, 2006
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Solar Blight Valley, SoCal
Had one similar to that at the airport, top was double 3/4 plywood 4x8ft, 2x4 upper & lower frame with 4x4 legs (one at each corner & also halfway along the 8ft side. Bottom shelf was also 4x8. 6 swivel castors with brakes.

Made this for my garage. Been great. Table top is reenforced by some steel strips and the top is boxed in. Great workbench, very heavy duty.

One Project Closer - How to Build a Heavy Duty Workbench

workbench.jpg
 

machine_punk

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May 14, 2011
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Napa Valley, California
Here's my Behemoth Baileigh Bench...designed to be an assembly table, once I build a custom base/bench for the Baileigh 3-in-1 sheet metal machine (weighs in at 1200 lbs (550 kg)). This could easily be scaled up to your 4'x8' (1,2m x 2,4m) size. It is already at 28" x 6' (0,7m x 1,8m).

I move it around, when needed, by popping it up onto car tire dollies. I built it so the leg cross pieces are the right height for my air-over-hydraulic bottle jack. It is completely bolt-through construction (bolts go all the way through each joint) You can read a lot more about this table on my main thread. It is rock steady, even with 1200 pounds on it, but easily moveable with the jack and dollies.

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1320stang

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Dec 28, 2006
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Edmond, OK
No pics but my chassis shop buddy built one with a sheet of LDPE covering the top (or was it HDPE?) for fabricating his aluminum on for the drag cars he builds.
 

All

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I have a 3.5' x 9.0' work table on wheels. I paid more for the wheels than the table. The casters have high bearing load, rated for wet environments, and all lock both in swivel and in roll (Colson Total Lock system).

Getting the wheel part right was very important. The wheels ALL needed to swivel 360 degrees, because moving a 9' long table with two straight and two swivel casters is quite an awkward exercise of forward and backs, not to mention the turning circle diameter would have tripled over my all swivel set up that can turn on it's own center axis.

Also, the wheels themselves had to be of a large enough diameter (5"-6" minimum) to smoothly negotiate over expansion seams in the concrete driveway, the transition seam between the driveway and the garage pad, as well as be able to bridge over the undulations of old asphalt that is no longer smooth because the surface fines have been washed away by 30 years of rain, exposing the craggy surfaced aggregate that would hamper a wheel of 4" or less in diameter.

And, since the table has been kept outside, unprotected, 24/7 for over 25 years ongoing now, the wheels needed to have bearings both in the wheel axis as well as the swiveling caster plate that were capable of enduring rain water exposure, cold nights, as well as lubricant melting hot summer days.

Like I said, the casters I spec'ed for my outdoor table cost more than the (all steel) table. I ordered them from a caster company (Colson).

As for the table, it is all steel framing (welded angle iron), with galvanized sheet metal that fully wraps over and underneath (spot welded to itself) the 3/4" table top substrate. This "poor man's steel table" set up has worked great for a weather resistant multi-purpose work surface... but is not necessarily as straight and true as a solid 3/4" steel surface might be, because the sheet metal wrap expands and contracts with the sun's pelting heat, creating undulations on the surface.

Also, the sheet metal remembers every missed hammer stroke a little deeper than solid steel might. However, solid steel would be infinitely heavier to wheel around, and at 9 feet long, would be cost prohibitive for an ad hoc home shop environment. Not to mention the constant corrosion battle that non galvanized steel would present, both on top as well as underneath from condensation beading.

Speaking of heat, any steel table can get fairly warm if left out in the sun... sometimes too hot to touch. But I have noticed that the galvanized sheet metal covering doesn't get as warm as the steel I'm working with that is setting on top. It seems that the thin surface of the galvanized sheet doesn't absorb as much heat due to the non metal substrate between the galvanized sheet that makes up the "stiffness" of the table between the lower and upper sheets.

I apologize for not having pictures to show... but I hope that at least the verbal description of my "outside the box" table helps inspire some of your own ideas for building a large, mobile, outdoor work surface.
 
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Tscott

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Been thinking on this and attached is what I see in my head right now. I am going to build the table to house my Jet contractor saw. Over all dimensions will be 4'x8'x41". The side with the saw will hold all my wood working stuff. Circular saw, router, saw blades etc. The large drawers will hold these larger tools. On the other side I am not really sure what I want yet. Tell me what you all think and feel free to add suggestions. I'll probably be using mostly 3/4" plywood for the top, bottom and dividers with a Masonite cover over on the top. I plan to assemble the whole thing with pocket screws and glue.

Tom



Saw Side Profile.jpg
Unfinished Plan View_Page_2.jpg
 

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carcajou

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SW Alberta
Something like this would be great. Perhaps I should just make my table saw part of it and eliminate my plans for another dedicated table saw cabinet?
I just built one yesterday. Big table saw is in the shop but i wanted one in the house in my new "project room". The room is only 19 ft long so building the saw into the bench made sense. The top is sacrificial, easily replaced, there is a second 5/8 layer underneath. Now to add a couple power receptacles and 2 drawers and it's done.
 

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J66442

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Jan 12, 2006
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florida
My brother borrowed my 20 foot car trailer two months ago and turned it into a large rolling table inside his hanger.
 

sledzz

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Jul 30, 2009
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Nebraska
Here is what I built. Heavy door core which I could barely lift, a sheet of plywood and then made the trim the same size as a sheet of mdf and double sided it with tape.
 

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IndyGarage

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I have a 4x8 rollaround bench in my shop.

It came as a rickety wooden fixed bench that was used to do sheetmetal layouts. It was made of 2 2x4 wood frames with 3/4 plywood tops, on on top and one about 8 inches off the floor, held up by 6 4x4 corner/edge posts and a couple of 2x4 corner braces.

The top was pretty beat up, so I glued another smooth 5/8 plywood layer on top and a sheet of 20gauge galvanized steel on top of that. I banded the edges of the top with some inexpensive prepainted steel corner moulding that I found at the home center.

Originally I put 2 fixed casters on one end and 2 swivel casters on the other, but I very quickly found that 4x8 is too big for the fixed casters plus the center was sagging a bit. I replaced the fixed casters with two more swivels and put a third pair of swivels under the center posts. I also stiffened up the structure with some of the hardened lag screws and some additional construction adhesive under the corner braces.

I topped it with a 5 inch Parker vise, and a cheap harbor freight 36 inch sheetmetal brake on one end, and a roll of craft paper hung under the other end.

It works great. There are two problems with it. First, you have to have a lot of clear floorspace to move around a 4x8 workbench, so most of the time it remains stationary.
And second it's a big open space that tends to collect stuff. Additionally the bottom shelf is huge so that collects heavy stuff too, making it really heavy to push around. I really have to work hard to keep it from collecting junk on top.
 

KEH

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As another poster said, you may not want an assembly table too high. Never done upholstery work, you will have to size it to suit your needs. Looks to me like you might need to reach across the table at times, but whatever suits you.

I got an old coffee table from a used furniture store and have used it in woodworking. Its made from 2 inch thick oak, and the price was less than the cost of the lumber new, not to mention the labor.

KEH
 

dreesemonkey

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May 11, 2012
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Check out the wood whisperer's "torsion box assembly table" project. Might be a bit overkill for your needs, but it's a fun video to watch none the less.

 
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Tscott

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As another poster said, you may not want an assembly table too high. Never done upholstery work, you will have to size it to suit your needs. Looks to me like you might need to reach across the table at times, but whatever suits you.

I got an old coffee table from a used furniture store and have used it in woodworking. Its made from 2 inch thick oak, and the price was less than the cost of the lumber new, not to mention the labor.

KEH

I'm using my contractor saw as a starting point for the height. The plan is to build the table in such a way as to make the table saw sit at the same height in the table as it does in its base. The saw is at 41" inches if I recall. This suits me pretty well as far as working height goes. As far as reaching across, I am 6'3" so I have a pretty long reach but this table will mostly sit int he middle of the shop with access from all sides.

What I think I would like on the other side is some sort of novel storage that isn't drawers. Maybe slide out pegboard or something else different. If all else fails, I will just go with drawers that mirror the other side. This will give me a metric ton of storage space for sure, which I am really looking forward to. I need to get **** off my benches and into their own spaces.

Tom
 
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