If this was your garage, what would you use?

[TimTaylor75]

Greetings garage journal brethren. I recently moved to Florida from Ohio and just went into contract last week on my new place. Prior to moving in, I want to get the garage all set up and the first item that needs addressed is the floor. This space will be used to park my '69 Cutlass and Harley, but will be used for the frame off restoration of my Cutlass which will obviously include some welding and grinding. So my dilemma, as the thread title states, if this was your garage, what would you use on the floor? I'm leaning towards grinding the floor and just putting down a clear product to bring out the detail in the concrete itself, but not sure which product would be best for that. Any and all input is greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

 

[kabinenroller]

Shot blasting will remove what’s there and prep the floor for epoxy, tile, or what ever you decide on. Find a contractor that has a walk behind machine, it will shoot shot at the floor, remove the finish and vacuum up as it goes, it does not allow media to blow around but it does produce some dust. Just leave the overhead door open and it should be fine.

 

[TimTaylor75]

Thanks for the suggestions. I should say that I do have plans to rent a grinder to "clean" the floor and do all of the work myself. I guess my main inquiry would be, which product/application would choose to finish the floor based on the use mentioned in my first post?

 

[tncatadjuster]

Not a good candidate for shotblasting, if the coating was adhered then you could try, but when it is pealing up not a good idea to blast. Grinding is a much better solution for your situation.

Good luck and congrats on a new garage.

 

[dirtydrew420]

Garageflooringllc.com

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[TimTaylor75]

Garageflooringllc.com

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I've browsed that site before. Anything specific you're recommending or just sharing a website?

 

[jabberwoki]

I used a 2 part paint from Sherwin Williams 10 years later still happy as a clam.

 

[roscoe2000]

i would wait until the surface is prepared before pulling the trigger for the finish. Then if the surface is somewhat uniform with no glaring issues...the clear finish is a good choice. For me I would like something with more pop providing it durable for the hazards of a working shop and not just a showpiece. Say a 2 part epoxy with a clear coat

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Grind and HellFire!!

 

[_Ben_]

Diamond grinder with good dust extraction!

 

[mtwaterguy]

Porcelain tile. Once and done.

 

[MJK]

You can rent a diamond grinder from Home Depot that attaches to your garden hose. It isn't cheap and it won't get into edges/corners, but it is worth it. Pressure wash out the slurry when it builds up, and check it with a LONG straight edge if you plan on tiling.

 

[dirtydrew420]

I've browsed that site before. Anything specific you're recommending or just sharing a website?

I just bought a diy polyurea kit. Haven't put it down yet, but from all the info out there, they have a superior product line up.

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[Garage Flooring]

Garageflooringllc.com

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Thanks!

I've browsed that site before. Anything specific you're recommending or just sharing a website?

There are LOTS of good options. If you go with a coating or tile, you will need to be prepared to protect it from weld slag.

Grinding off what is there, checking for moisture and making sure the concrete is clean and in good conditon and going over it with a Polyurea kit would be great.

In my most recent garage, I used tile (TrueLock HDXT Coin) and have loved it.

Give me a call when you get a chance!

 

[Cairo94507]

I would suggest you check into porcelain tile if you are planning to live there long-term. I have never once seen an epoxy floor that did not have bubbles, stains and lifting. I did my3-car floor in 12x12 porcelain tile and I love it. Every time I walk out to the garage I smile. East to clean and maintain and pretty much as tough as concrete, maybe tougher. I use my garage and am a car guy. Floor jacks, jack stands, etc. I have dropped stuff on the floor and not a single problem. The floor is almost 2 years old now and I do not regret it one bit.

Oh, if you go down this path, read up on Dakota's thread here in flooring. That's what I did and the reason I went with porcelain. Of course, go with a industrial grade porcelain; I went with PEI 5 which was the best they offered and I also went with a non-slip finish.

 

[Dakota00]

Thanks Cairo for the mention. OP if you're planning to stay a long time in this house, go with porcelain tiles if you plan to use and abuse your floor. You will not regret it!

 

[Jason B]

VCT tile! You can go right over that. No problem, and very reasonable.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Hi, shotblasting does not do well to remove an existing coating so this floor will need to be agressively grinded and recoated. You will need to use at least 2-3 coats depending on which system you choose to even out the porosity from grinding.

Alternately just cover over it with our www.supratile.com.

 

[PhilJohn]

Pay someone to diamond grind it.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

VCT tile! You can go right over that. No problem, and very reasonable.

Jason, I DON'T have that peeling old paint issue in my soon to be new-to-me house but if you did you'd still want to remove any that was only loosely attached, wouldn't you?

The adhesive has to stick and sticking to the peeling paint means the tiles would only be held down where there ISN'T peeling.

 

[Angelfire]

Another vote for Porcelain. Damn near bulletproof.
Cheers.

 

[PhantomEB]

You got ways to cover up the corners and edges? If enough clutter, then do the Home Depot grinder and leave as is.

Mine was a new floor and I knew I had some big projects planned so left it bare. If I ever feel the need that I no longer need to weld or grind in there, will be the day I ever consider coating my floor.

 

[MJK]

I weld, grind and regularly work on some fairly heavy (7800lb) vehicles in my tiled garage. I did the same on the epoxy there before it. It isn't a 'zero consideration' floor like bare concrete is, but then again it doesn't look or feel like it either. And its easier to clean. JMO.

 

[nadogail]

After the epoxy coating was put in my workshop, I bought an arc welder. The molten steel burned through the epoxy.

I caught lots of grief for that.

I now weld over a sheet of HardiBoard.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Welding slag will always burn or mark any epoxy since it’s a resin and is not designed for high heat.

Protecting the floor is the proper technique, or if doing a lot of welding use a penetrating sealer like Ghostshield.

 

[Jason B]

Jason, I DON'T have that peeling old paint issue in my soon to be new-to-me house but if you did you'd still want to remove any that was only loosely attached, wouldn't you?

The adhesive has to stick and sticking to the peeling paint means the tiles would only be held down where there ISN'T peeling.

Nope, not needed. Dust it off and no etching needed, nothing. Just get dust off. I've had mine in now for over 13 years and have helped friends do it right overtop epoxy that has peeled over time. This stuff is great. Just make sure to fill in any cracks or holes so it's level.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11812

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

I haven't looked super close at my "new" garage floor but close enough to know it has the tight cracks your garage pictures from 2007 show. Did you do anything at all to those tight cracks?

If not, I guess I would power wash with my el cheap electric 1700 psi pressure washer, let it dry well for a day or two and go to it.

My one big worry is getting started off right. I know to find the center of the garage door and put a full tile there and to stay ON THE LINE starting. I don't understand using a laser. The line they throw is not exact, right? I could use one to strike a mark front & rear and side to side then draw a sharp pencil line using a long straight edge. That seems to be the only way to make certain I'm off to a correct start. Advice?

 

[roscoe2000]

Dan, Use a chalk line instead of a pencil and straight edge.

 

[Jason B]

I haven't looked super close at my "new" garage floor but close enough to know it has the tight cracks your garage pictures from 2007 show. Did you do anything at all to those tight cracks?

If not, I guess I would power wash with my el cheap electric 1700 psi pressure washer, let it dry well for a day or two and go to it.

My one big worry is getting started off right. I know to find the center of the garage door and put a full tile there and to stay ON THE LINE starting. I don't understand using a laser. The line they throw is not exact, right? I could use one to strike a mark front & rear and side to side then draw a sharp pencil line using a long straight edge. That seems to be the only way to make certain I'm off to a correct start. Advice?

Yep, just some concrete filler. If you don't fill the cracks, the tile will mimic the crack. Some don't care, but I wanted to fill the cracks.

Yes, just snap a chalk line, that's what I did, and just be sure it's 100% straight. Have a friend help you if you're worried. Everything you do is based off that chalk line.

 

[TimTaylor75]

I'm leaning towards just grinding and sealing the floor at this point. I'm not too keen on using vinyl tiles, just not my taste or style.

 

[Jason B]

I'm leaning towards just grinding and sealing the floor at this point. I'm not too keen on using vinyl tiles, just not my taste or style.

Just remember, eventually that will wear out overtime. The tiles have also made my garage warmer in the winter.

 

[TimTaylor75]

Just remember, eventually that will wear out overtime. The tiles have also made my garage warmer in the winter.

I’m in Florida...not too worried about that.

 

[RaceDeck1]

Easy... RACEDECK!

 

[TimTaylor75]

Easy... RACEDECK!

Just created a design on the website. Might need to get a price from ya.

 

[TimTaylor75]

Received my Racedeck flooring Wednesday and got it all installed by the end of the day Thursday. Then went yesterday to pick up my new boxes from HF. So far, loving the look. Now that this is done, I can bring my ‘69 442 home from storage!

Ugh! Not sure why two pictures rotated...sorry about that.

 

[Maiku]

Well done! Looks nice and glad you are happy with it


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[gb99]

TimTaylor75: Your design for the RaceDeck flooring looks fantastic! How do you like the feel of them while walking on them?

I do a lot of wrenching on cars and will have a basketball hoop in my garage (see the thread I started) - do you think a basketball will bounce "true" on the RaceDeck tiles?

I'm interested in porcelain tiles as well, but I just don't know if my knees can take working and walking on that hard of a surface for hours and hours.

 

[nadogail]

IMHO, garages are not so much as a showplace but a shelter in which to work and a security perimeter for your stuff.

That being said before you stress on how pretty you can make your garage, put some time into considering what you intend to do with the space. Don't make it too pretty to work in.

 

[TimTaylor75]

IMHO, garages are not so much as a showplace but a shelter in which to work and a security perimeter for your stuff.

That being said before you stress on how pretty you can make your garage, put some time into considering what you intend to do with the space. Don't make it too pretty to work in.

Doesn't seem as though you read my initial post. There will be plenty of work performed in my pretty garage. If I'm going to be spending countless hours in this space, why not make it an appealing space verses just being utilitarian?

 

[Jason B]

I still think you should try the VCT. How big is your garage? Cost me $550 to do my 3 car garage, that was in 2007, but it's still super affordable.

Anyone can read my full write-up here and the floor still looks new.

VCT tile now done. Looks great!