If You Could Build Again

[Cody449]

First off some of the builds on here are amazing, however I'm just your average "jack of all trades" with a middle class budget, so I'll try to keep this short.
Location: Northern Minnesota
Age: 26
Martial Status: Engaged
Occupation: Engineer
Property: 3 Acres surrounded by woods and trees (moved in June 2014)
House: 2500 sq ft split level; unfinished basement; no garage
Toy Box: Polaris Ranger 900 with plow; Polaris Indy 550 snowmobile; KX450F dirtbike; Otter Resort portable fishhouse; wood working/mechanic tools.

As I near the end of a full kitchen remodel, building a front deck, and re-siding the house, I am shifting my mind over to the important part...a detached garage/shop. I had fill hauled in and now leveled to build approximately a 28x40 garage/shop in the spring. It will be used as a 2 car (full size truck & SUV) and somewhat of a workshop/toy storage.

My question to you if you could build again what would you keep and what would you do different.

Any other ideas/comments to help my planning stages would be great! (kitchen pics for fun)

Cheers!

-Cody

 

[Spareparts]

X2 on sq. ft. and at least 12' ceilings if not 14' and hope to not run out of space.

 

[Bsj04]

I have a 26x40 and wish it was at least 2' longer. I'd be really nice to be able to park my truck and trailer hooked together in there. It's not an everyday deal but when I'm packing for a hunting or 4 wheeling trip I either have to park outside overnight or hook up trailer in the morning.

 

[thickhead]

Good high ceiling and at least 4 bays wide would be my needs.
12' ceilings and 28' depth would be fine, but the 40 is a bit too narrow for the 4th bay.
I don't like working in the back of a long deep bay, would rather have the extra bay on the side.

 

[wintermute]

No less than 20-amp 110vac outlet circuits, multiple 220vac circuits. (lights, overhead doors ok on 15

 

[NUTTSGT]

I'd make it bigger, you're going to run out of room quite fast.

A full size pick and SUV, a side by side, sled, dirtbike and then add in your tools. You won't have much room to do any work in there unless you start taking stuff out.

Try staking out your 28x40. Park everything inside, lay out a work bench,a tool box and see how much room is left.

 

[Cody449]

I actually did stake out the original 28x32 and decided that 28x40 would be better after everything was parked in there. I should also mention that in the "off season" sled, bike and anything else will be stored in my parents dairy barn, converted into shop....that project is a story in itself.

 

[JCByrd24]

If you work on cars and ever want any kind of lift do 2 things: 1) 12.5 ft ceilings in at least part of the garage and 2) a space where you have at least 3' but preferably 4' or more on both sides of the lift bay. 28'x40' has great potential for 2 parking and 1 nice work bay, you just need the height.

So to answer the question, my garage is 26 wide by 28 deep by 10' high. I want it wider and taller! Depending on where you place your lift you can cheat on the side width by moving cars out of the way, but if you are up against a wall give yourself some room.

 

[toyoguy81]

Double the space immediately, i have a 24x32, you sound like me also, middle class budget on 4 acres...now im in planning mode for a lean-to this spring. ditto what everyone said on ceiling height for lift, i went 13 foot to accomodate my lift and is this a pole barn??? If so, insulate during the build!!!

 

[Cody449]

The plan is stick built 2x6 walls, with underfloor heat and insulation is a must up here. I'm not a big car guy, so a lift isn't likely going to happen.

 

[Autorotica]

Everyone I talked to told me to determine the size building you think you need and build one TRIPLE that size.

Metal roof buildings sweat and drip as they cross dew point in the morning. Do some kind of insulation to keep the moisture from condensing on the roof and dripping on your toyz.

Be sure you know what the local requirements are that go along with your building. I was told one thing, but in reality, there was a lot more required. This has definitely slowed down finishing and outfitting the building due to the financial distractions I was not aware I would have to address.

Build it big as you can and as soon as you can. You have been without it for so long already. Finish everything else as you go but get it up and weather tight asap. Every day the rules change and there is more required or less you are allowed to do.

Good luck!
Chris

 

[Farmall450]

I'm out of room in the 42x80 so...build the biggest you can afford!

 

[marinusdees]

Mine is 40'x40'with 12 foot ceiling, three 10'x10' doors. A 10'x40' lean to to park the mower,tractor, boat in, unheated with a gravel floor. The shop is heated with a gas ceiling furnace. It is 2x6 on 16" centers stick built 40' trusses on same centers. I was 50 years old when I built it and am 76 now. It has an inground hoist. Even if you don't foresee a hoist, the added height is cheap space and will allow you to stack cars if you are so inclined. I have a 3' concrete stem wall all around which allowed using 9' T-111 siding without seaming. The stem wall allows fastening benches to a rigid plate. I have three windows high enough so it would require a fairly long ladder to break in.. The garage doors hare mostly glass. I bought fluorescent light diffusers and sawed them to fit on the table saw, then held them in place with silicone sealant to keep lookers at bay. Build as big and high as you can. Insulate well, and provide for some heat if for no other reason than to prevent freezing. 100 amp panel and lots of outlets.

 

[Voi]

The plan is stick built 2x6 walls, with underfloor heat and insulation is a must up here. I'm not a big car guy, so a lift isn't likely going to happen.

I agree with others, go bigger. You're young and engaged. As a father of two young boys I can't tell you how much I'd love to have a huge pole barn for them to play in during the winter. We already ride bikes and shoot air rifles (not at the same time) in the two-bay section of our garage. If we had a large open garage or barn we'd nearly live out there in the winter.

If you want to stick build for the siding, insulation and interior sheathing options you could do a hybrid pole barn and still stick build with 2x6's.

You can pour the slab later when you have funds. For now I'd put up as much structure as you can afford. Worry about slab, radiant floor heat, interior finishing, etc. as you have time and money.

Wife and I both regret not buying a property that would've allowed this. We'll probably get around to it eventually but now is not the time for us. And by the time it is my boys probably won't appreciate it as much. But then I'll just fill it with toys.

 

[Majordisorder]

Go 40 x 48, insulate well and enjoy your long cold winter.

 

[Throbbin Rods]

X2 on sq. ft. and at least 12' ceilings if not 14' and hope to not run out of space.

^
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This

 

[NUTTSGT]

I actually did stake out the original 28x32 and decided that 28x40 would be better after everything was parked in there. I should also mention that in the "off season" sled, bike and anything else will be stored in my parents dairy barn, converted into shop....that project is a story in itself.

Smart man as you've already tried to lay it out.


Guys on here will still tell you to build it bigger, so would I.

 

[MScott]

Guys on here will always tell you to build it bigger, even if you were talking about a 100 x 100 foot shop. Sometimes you have to consider the cost and intended use. That said, I would certainly recommend 12+ foot ceilings regardless of the size you choose just in case.

 

[Gerald O]

I should also mention that in the "off season" sled, bike and anything else will be stored in my parents dairy barn, converted into shop....that project is a story in itself.

No doubt your parents want nothing more than to sacrifice their storage space to store your stuff...

Here's my advice as a parent still storing grown-up kids junk after years; don't take advantage of your parents.

 

[IlliniJeeper]

Go 40 x 48, insulate well and enjoy your long cold winter.

40x48 is going to be a BIG $/sq ft increase over 40x28 simply because of the increased strength needed for an almost doubled truss span.

 

[55chevy]

I have one regret. I should have run an electrical wire back to the house, so that I could turn off the outside garage lights when returning to the house.

 

[NakeDiesel]

I've spent the last year and a half building my 40x80 shop, and am still working on getting the lights installed and organizing it. I'm very happy with the space inside of the shop that I have, the choice of spray foam insulation, lining the walls with 29 gauge white steel and the pre planning of having 400 amp service put in when I put my house in. The one thing I wish I had been able to afford was to add open air overhangs on the front and back of the shop for additional dry space for items like my tractor, implements, 4 wheeler, mower, etc...

I will eventually add on those overhangs to my pole barn as money allows after I get the inside finished.

 

[C2 Turbo]

How much bigger you want really depends on your actual needs. I say this 'coz, of-course the bigger it is the more expensive it would be to insulate/floor/lights etc etc which is not cheap

Right after I started my build, I accidentally came across this wonderful site and right away realized my two 24x28 garages (one for DD and for toys) just weren't going to cut it

I immediately increased my DD to 28x30 and my weekend garage to 28x42 (GJ this is for you )

The more you ask the more money these guys are going to make you spend.

 

[Notgrownup]

Plenty (too many ) outlets, air lines, Sink, hot n cold water. Toilet. I have 10' celings and I think it will be fine... As big as you can in size... good insulation and venting. Little shed outside for the Compressor...

 

[JMURiz]

Couldn't make it bigger, but I would have justified the garage door to the left 1-2', put the people-door in the front rather than the back. I could have lived with it being 1' less deep to make getting in/out easier too. Also I would have dug down 2' or so to make the driveway not quite as steep.

 

[Hookedtrout]

I'd make it bigger, you're going to run out of room quite fast.

A full size pick and SUV, a side by side, sled, dirtbike and then add in your tools. You won't have much room to do any work in there unless you start taking stuff out.

Try staking out your 28x40. Park everything inside, lay out a work bench,a tool box and see how much room is left.

I would echo this! My shop is 36' x 54' with 18' high ceilings and I don't think I could store what you are expecting to get in yours without taking all the workbenches and shelving and....good stuff out. You can never imagine what you will want and need in there, big big big, as big as you can. Have fun.

 

[Tronyadorable]

You're in the country.Buy and assemble a surplus....or new Quonset hut and divide it any way you see fit------or not at all. If you want it longer in the future adds ons, side doors etc are a cinch.Tornado resistant,fire proof, no stupid shingles and other such nonsense.
Call a few outfits like this
http://www.americansteelspan.com/military.html

 

[CPH628]

Have 28 x 45 wish I had 20 more feet!

cph

 

[Cody449]

Great feedback! It will for sure have a lean-to on the gable end, which will be hidden from the front yard/road. It will be storage for lawn mower and Ranger in the summer. You guys have for sure talked me into 12' side walls too. Any recommendations on lean-to design?

 

[SweetD]

More ceiling lighting, more outlets (since added a circuit), heat (since added but should've put it in from the start), steel beam rather than LVL down the middle to eliminate the post I have in the middle of the garage.

All that being said I am thankful for what I do have since I had no garage to begin with for the first 9 years we lived here.

 

[roscoe2000]

Mine is a 32 x 36. Other than making it larger, there are four other things i would do differently. First I would use scissor trust for the front half for higher ceiling height for a lift. Second garage door would be hi-lift or roll up. Third, i would add steel trolley hoist across rear half. Forth is radiant floor heating.

 

[g3bill]

Didn't read all replies but height is good as said. I wouldn't build with trusses if ya dont have to. Lots of good storage space wasted with trusses and ya only need a folding stair unit.
I'd also put a few anchors in the concret floor, its cheap at time of pour and might need it one day for pulling a frame or whatever? Dont know whats required but rebar in the floor stops craking unlike the wire cloth only.
Totally agree with 20amp outlets plus one or two 220's hi amp. Dont know if too cold there but having the air compressor outside is a plus for keeping it quiet.
enough from me...

 

[NUTTSGT]

How much bigger you want really depends on your actual needs. I say this 'coz, of-course the bigger it is the more expensive it would be to insulate/floor/lights etc etc which is not cheap

Right after I started my build, I accidentally came across this wonderful site and right away realized my two 24x28 garages (one for DD and for toys) just weren't going to cut it

I immediately increased my DD to 28x30 and my weekend garage to 28x42 (GJ this is for you )

The more you ask the more money these guys are going to make you spend.

Yep, bigger is going to be more expensive. It's cheaper to do it now, rather than to add on later down the road.

I think most guys would sacrifice getting the interior finished for a year if it meant getting a bigger garage/shop from the start.

One more thing Cody, do as much as you can yourself or with family/friends. The sweat equity pays off in the long run as you'll far more with your money if you can do the labor yourself.

 

[jives]

We just put a down payment down on an Amish-built pole barn for the spring. It will be
32 x 42 x 14, with scissor trusses for at 20' peak. The size is down from the 40 x 60 we
wanted. It was either the smaller size or nothing, based on what we could afford. But,
we are also getting better windows and garage doors, sheathing under the siding,
commercial style girts, perma-columns, 5" slab, and a covered porch along one side.
The building will be garage, workshop, and when cars removed, basketball court and
play/entertainment space. Electricity, insulation, and liner will be phase two, to be done
by me and my kids.

We sacrificed size for "I want it built this way." Otherwise I would not be satisfied.
Doing some work myself, but this project is too big for me to handle, and would take
too long if I took on more. The size is minimum for a good basketball court, so we
really did not want to go smaller. The point? Everyone says bigger, but being right-sized
and sticking to it and a budget is important. Young families and debt are not good
combos.

 

[GShelton]

Mine is a 40x100 and while I can't say that I would not like it to be double, realistically I would really just appreciate it if it was 10 feet deeper (50x100.) I also would like to have gone 16' eaves instead of 14' so the loft had high ceilings.

But the advice that I would like to give you is this: Draw your dream garage (on paper or cad) as many times as you can during your winter wait. Lay it out differently as many times as you can. Think about anything you might add later on and see if you need to make provisions for it now. Not so much the things like receptacles, but more like the best place for the electrical panel, sink, bathroom(?), walk doors, etc.. Where you think you want that one certain piece of equipment and then think about using it there. Is there enough room?

I have suffered some delays in getting my garage setup, but it has helped in the fact that I have figured out better use of the space.

If you are EVER thinking about adding a lift, make the bay wider than you think and make your ceiling hight fit it now.

If you are interested in a steel building, www.steelbuilding.com is a fun site to play with building sizes. (I bought my building from them.)

 

[NakeDiesel]

I think most guys would sacrifice getting the interior finished for a year if it meant getting a bigger garage/shop from the start.

This is what I did, I paid a crew to get the structure up, another crew for the concrete, another crew to get the rough plumbing in place, another crew to get the doors installed and a final crew to spray in the foam insulation. Everything else, I've done myself as time and money permitted. I put all the 2x4's on the walls and ceiling to hang my tin. I lived on scaffolding for a month or more on nights and weekend. I rigged up a way to put 20' sheet of tin up by myself. It wasn't fun or easy and took help when I could get it to speed it up a little. A year and a half later, I'm finally getting my ceiling lights installed. First circuit/switch of lights started going up tonight. I've been using the cheap Walmart plug in lights and halogen lights on stands up to this point.

Once I get the lights and ceiling fans done, then I will start thinking about a permanent heat/ac solution and getting the plumbing hooked up to the shop. Then the bathroom and then the commercial kitchen.

 

[Disturbed]

Never, never, and I'll say it one more time NEVER use standard trusses. First shop built I used standard trusses and the shop at the house I just bought has the same thing. It is a huge waste of space that you are paying for and more or less unable to use. Use scissor trusses to get more height or attic trusses for more storage, or a combo that will fit you needs.

The shop I am currently redoing will have all but two of the trusses replaced with scissor trusses to make more height. The last two are going to be rebuilt with a center beam to allow me to build a second floor in that area.

Did I mention never use standard trusses?

Also someone mentioned earlier about pulling a wire so you can turn lights at the garage on and off at the house, I did this on my last shop and it was great.

 

[hh76]

While I do agree that bigger is better for some people, you need to think for yourself.

Some people always need more room because when there's a little extra space, they fill it with more junk. Figure out what you actually will be using it for, draw up the space to figure out how you will fill it, then add 10 or 20% for future equipment. Get good at realizing what is just taking up space, and get rid of it.

things that you should plan for right away:
- heat/insulation
- electrical
- plumbing
- vertical space. Even if you don't plan on a lift, it makes moving longer material around easier.

 

[canuckian]

I just went through this process and even now after the new shop is built there are a couple things I would have done differently. For the most part, it's my ideal space but hindsight can be a bit of a *****. That's just the nature of the beast I guess. Garages and shops are places where we build, modify, fix and change things. It's only natural that we want to make the building itself better or different based on our current needs.
On the top of my list besides the obvious building type and style would be

-square footage and ceiling height
-door(s) type and height
-heating/cooling
-# and type of receptacles and type of electrical entrance you'll need
-plumbing
-equipment locations (compressor, lift, benches, etc)
-overhead storage possibilities

Sadly, even after you pick what you believe to be the best options for you, it won't be long after the shop is built or even while it's being built that you'll find something or another that you would have done differently and want to change.

 

[76cruiser]

Verifying (or even knowing) about bottom cord strength on a truss. My pole barn was built with 1 lb. BCDL so ceiling and insulation options are minimal. I think with a liner panel and blown in insulation I might be okay. Anyhow just a little more for a higher rated truss would have been worth it.