I suddenly thought I'd somehow wandered back onto the Oilburners forum without noticing
The return lines on these trucks are extremely basic. A line or combo wrench for the metal lines, small pliers for the hose clamps, a pick or small cutters to take off the old o-rings, a razor blade for the new lines and a generous amount of vaseline for the new o-rings.
Loosen the line nuts on the injectors (be careful not to bend them too far, they are prone to pinching and not cheap to replace). You can loosen them at the IP as well if they won't get out of your way, but it usually isn't necessary.
Pop the old caps off and pull or cut off the old rings. Use the old set of lines and caps to measure out and cut for the new setup. Generously lube the rings and upper area of the injectors so they're roll on smoothly. Get the upper one on so the lower will just slide right over it and not get stuck in the mounting space. 'Pop' your new caps (you'll hear it if they seal correctly) and lines on and tighten the line nuts down. All set!
It's easy to get it started if you unscrew the fuel filter and fill it to the top. It can still take a couple of minutes to start, and run rough on start up, but it'll work the air out quickly. Don't crank for over a minute straight at a time, with a 2 minute cool down in between; these starters are heavy and expensive to replace!
I made life easier on mine by installing a ball check valve from Lowes inline between the tank selector and the water separator. The valve prevents the fuel from bleeding back from the filter to the tank, so the truck starts right up after changing injectors or return lines.
If you start it up and the lines leak at all, you can usually pop them back off (without removing the line nuts) and pack a little more vaseline in there, usually within a few miles they'll seat and stop leaking.
Need any more details, just ask!
