why is this even permitted? just nuts IMO .
I know that UL is not the NFPA that handles the National Electric Code, but how can that fire hazard of a product be permitted by any licensing body? Instead of the NFPA mandating Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters, they should be banning that type wire connection, which is barely suitable for low voltage.why is this even permitted? just nuts IMO .
The guy who installed the one in the video that failed obviously did not. An improperly pigtailed commercial grade receptacle can present an equivalent danger. I admit to some years of trailer life in my past, and I think the IPC wall switches might have been the only thing that DIDN'T fail. They must have had a proper punchdown tool....You don't use a punch down tool to install receptacles?
Trailers, just like tract homes, and multi family dwellings, are built as cheap as they can get away with, and the definite purpose contactors used in HVAC equipment is the same, they are designed to last a certain number of operations and as long as that is longer then the warranty period, it's all good.The guy who installed the one in the video that failed obviously did not. An improperly pigtailed commercial grade receptacle can present an equivalent danger. I admit to some years of trailer life in my past, and I think the IPC wall switches might have been the only thing that DIDN'T fail. They must have had a proper punchdown tool.
The electrical item I most wanted to choke the mobile home manufacturer for was the contactor that brought on the heating system. It sounded like a NEMA 4 motor starter bolted to a piece of sheet metal followed by the rush of a 3600 rpm blower pushing air through a too-small uninsulated duct. Given the trailer insulation, on a cold night this happened about every five minutes as you tried to sleep. The wall switches never kept me awake and to the disappointment of my ex-wife, I didn't die in a trailer fire.
Wondered that myself lolWhere's the "Insane 15A receptacle"?
When I first clicked on the article yesterday, thought it might be about those "audiophile receptacles"Wondered that myself lol
I built a really thin wall in my basement to make a closet wide enough for a standard door. I found a really shallow plastic electrical box at Menards and was able to mount a standard outlet. One of the tricks was to only run one cable to box so I didn't have to pigtail it.I'm guessing the design if primarily to facilitate use in thin walls.
Why ? They seem very similar to me !Punched down correctly, that wouldn't bother me. Now, backstab fixtures, those bother me.
Cause I've had backstab fixtures catch fire or melt down, but never punchdowns. The punchdowns dig into the conductor on two sides, the backstabs barely graze it. Again, this is assuming it was done correctly. I still prefer screwed or clamped.Why ? They seem very similar to me !
When I first clicked on the article yesterday, thought it might be about those "audiophile receptacles"
Discussion forum about them.https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/audiophile-grade-wall-receptacle
But the whole electrical system behind your wall and to the street and to the power company is made of non-audiophile grade equipment. Putting a special outlet at the wall just before your components doesn’t improve anything. It’ll just pass through the noisy electricity that is already there. Fortunately, the engineers that designed your equipment account for this in your devices’ power supplies… where that AC gets converted to DC to power your electronics.
then you havent analyzed the differences between the 2. a sharp edge biting both sides of a conductor is a lot different than a flat piece of metal touching one side of a conductor with a spring in the strap for tensionWhy ? They seem very similar to me !
No, those are "audiophoole receptacles". These are the same phooles who pay $800 for a souped up 10 awg power cable that does all kinds of marvy things to the sound. I read of a guy who put one on a DAC that drew about 15 watts and it "transformed his system" almost as much as the cable lifters he bought to keep his cables off the floor. There is a clown in Japan who had an audiophoole power pole installed that fed the dedicated service to his sound system.When I first clicked on the article yesterday, thought it might be about those "audiophile receptacles"
Discussion forum about them.https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/audiophile-grade-wall-receptacle
Also avoid a Hubbell Spec grade or better outlet that has a nickle plated brass supporting backstrap and nickle plated brass contacts The nickle plating has ferrous materials in it and causes grain in the sound presentation. Not as bad as a steel backstrap though.
Reading that thread is wow. Not as bad as the guy in Japan that bought his own pole and transformer for his stereo though…When I first clicked on the article yesterday, thought it might be about those "audiophile receptacles"
Discussion forum about them.https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/audiophile-grade-wall-receptacle
I sold a lot of monster at tweeter in the early 00's...it sure did wonders for my wallet!No, those are "audiophoole receptacles". These are the same phooles who pay $800 for a souped up 10 awg power cable that does all kinds of marvy things to the sound. I read of a guy who put one on a DAC that drew about 15 watts and it "transformed his system" almost as much as the cable lifters he bought to keep his cables off the floor. There is a clown in Japan who had an audiophoole power pole installed that fed the dedicated service to his sound system.
They speak **** like this with a straight face...
Yeah, that "nickle plating" really screws things up.
It's really the arcs that mess up your vinyl playback. Need those AFCI's!Are the audiofool recps. also available in tamper resistant ?
![]()
I doubt that I can remember or even search for the formulas to determine the current carrying capacity of a couple of thin knife edges, but I wouldn't push 15 amps through it, proper punch down tool used or not.then you havent analyzed the differences between the 2. a sharp edge biting both sides of a conductor is a lot different than a flat piece of metal touching one side of a conductor with a spring in the strap for tension
You do realize that it has been tested by an NRTL in a lab? So it has been proven that it can carry 15a.I doubt that I can remember or even search for the formulas to determine the current carrying capacity of a couple of thin knife edges, but I wouldn't push 15 amps through it, proper punch down tool used or not.
You do realize that it has been tested by an NRTL in a lab? So it has been proven that it can carry 15a.
If they were, the phooles would have to call a proper sparky or other competent adult to plug it in.Are the audiofool recps. also available in tamper resistant ?
![]()
Thankfully I aged out of that hobby due to hearing loss, but I can say that mild hearing loss is good for your marriage
I "overspend" a good bit on sound equipment, but I could buy a nice new touring motorcycle for the difference in price between two sound systems whose performance differences could be confirmed by oscilloscope traces but not by blind A-B comparison listening. Unless you are in the Gates/Musk/Bezos class purchasing decisions have an opportunity cost. My entire budget for audiophile tweaks remains unspent.Thankfully I aged out of that hobby due to hearing loss, but I can say that mild hearing loss is good for your marriage![]()
WTF?????why is this even permitted? just nuts IMO .
Absolutely nothing is "approved" by UL, they list a product if it meets the standard set for that product.I've never seen them used in houses, just RV's, mobile homes, but they are UL approved and manufactured by respected companies like Pass and Seymour (Legrand).