Installed Atlas OH9000 2 post lift, initial reviews/thoughts

[Josh Kinzey]

Finished up the install on my new lift this Saturday. I've never had a lift before, and after much reading I ended up choosing an Atlas 9000 lb. 2 post lift, part number OH9000. I chose this lift because it was direct drive, and seemed to be a good value for the dollar.

Shipping was super fast, I ordered it on the Friday before Easter at about 7 PM. It arrived at the local freight depot on the following Tuesday.

I had the freight company load it on a car trailer for me, and I brought it home.

I don't have a forklift, but my harbor freight engine hoist managed to get the lift off the trailer and into my garage.

Assembly wasn't too tough, my girl friend and I were able to knock it out in about 6-7 hours. However, the instructions are TERRIBLE. Some of the script in the intructions is in broken English, it calls for more parts than ship with the lift, the equalization cable routing diagram doesn't show you the proper anchor points on the carriage for different install heights, there is no instructions on how to bleed the cylinders once you get everything up and running, there are no wiring instructions, no mention of any torque specs (I found this especially frustrating when it came to the concrete anchors that hold the base down), there are several things that should/could be done with the columns flat on the ground that aren't mentioned until after you've stood the lift, etc...

I used it a couple times today; once for an oil change on a Pontiac Vibe and once on my 95 K1500. The lift columns do wobble slightly if I shake the truck once it's up in the air, but it's not enough to really concern me. With a lighter vehicle on the lift, it seems to be rock solid.

All in all, I am extremely excited that I have a lift at home. I've wanted one for more than a decade, and to finally have it is freaking awesome.

To sum up:

-Cons:

- To me, the lowering speed is slow. I have the throttle valve at max lowering speed and it's still frustratingly slow, especially with a light load on it.
-The lift pads minimum height is about 5.5 inches. No problem for most cars, but on lower sports cars, I'm sure this will be an issue. It's nothing driving up on some 2x6's won't cure, but a lower pad height would have been nice.
-The damn instructions are AWFUL! I can't possibly express how TERRIBLE they are.

Pros:

-Seems to be a quality piece at a good price, it's the cheapest direct drive lift I could find.
-Fast shipping.
-It picks stuff up for me.

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

Your columns should NOT wobble with a truck in the air. Use shims to level them (should have come with the lift) and torque the bolts to the right spec (see the bolt companies site for their specs).

 

[KPSquared]

Agreed. . .there should be no movement from the columns. This isn't something you want to get wrong. Your girlfriend isn't strong enough to lift that Chevy off your crushed skull or chest. . .

 

[Josh Kinzey]

Well that's not good. The concrete anchors were supplied by atlas, so I'm not sure who the manufacturer is. I'll reach out to Greg Smith and see if I can find some exact torque values. Right now, all the bolts are torqued to 90 ft. Lbs.

I was able to level/plumb the columns in all directions using the shims that came with the lift, so I don't think my wobble is related to that. Hopefully, an increase in anchor torque will solve the issue. I will report back with my results.

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

Josh,

Mine were Wejit brand bolts (3/4" dia) and were torqued to 150 ft lbs. Make sure that the shank of the bolt is not at the top of the base plate as you can NEVER get them tight in that situation. If that is the case, get some help getting the anchors in right. This is one of those "screw up and your dead" issues that needs to be done right.

 

[wnstwolf]

Looks great Josh. AS I just used my bend pak this past weekend for the first time with similar set up as you including Pick-up can I ask where your back lifting pint is? I had a heck of a time and ended up using the small extenders up front and longer ones in the back (Like you I beleive) and had the rear lift point at the spring perch? Does that sound familiar?

 

[Josh Kinzey]

The installer from Greg Smith said that 90 ft. Lbs. is adequate, and that I should re-torque the anchors after wobbling the truck. I'll do that tonight when I get home.

I'm familiar with concrete anchors, and have made the mistake of not driving them deep enough in the past, but with this application I installed the nuts one nut witdth and drove the anchor down tight. I expected the anchors to pull up .5 inches or so before they really seated themselves, so I wanted to be sure to have the maximum install depth possible. I expect the re-torque to solve my issue, if not I'll move the torque up and see what happens.

In that pic the rear arm is on the leaf spring perch. I also lifted it with both arms on he frame rail, but the truck seemed heavy on the back side in that configuration.

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

Josh,

As long as you blew the dust out the hole (assume you did if you are familar with wedge anchors) the re-torque should work. What size anchors did you use? 3/4 or 5/8?

 

[Josh Kinzey]

They are 3/4 anchors.

Still having a small wobble with the truck on the lift. I increased torque to 125, and that seems to have nearly solved the problem.

However, I did notice something that is troubling me... The lift columns twist slightly when they take on the weight of the truck. I really don't like the idea of the column flexing under load. I might take a video of the twist and shoot it my sales person at Greg Smith equipment, just to get their opinion on it.

Anyone else have columns that flex?

 

[Kevin54]

Well that's not good. The concrete anchors were supplied by atlas, so I'm not sure who the manufacturer is. I'll reach out to Greg Smith and see if I can find some exact torque values. Right now, all the bolts are torqued to 90 ft. Lbs.

I was able to level/plumb the columns in all directions using the shims that came with the lift, so I don't think my wobble is related to that. Hopefully, an increase in anchor torque will solve the issue. I will report back with my results.

Are you sure you have a good level? Check plumb with the level then flip the level end for end and check it that way. Also are you sure that one of the post, or both aren't twisted slightly or twisted to one another? If one is twisted slightly while the hoist is in a relaxed mode, meaning all the way down, when you run it up it could twist the post. Not only would they have to be level and plumb, they also will have to be square to one another.

You may also want to check plumb using a plumb bob vs. a level.

 

[regguy1]

You need to be 100% sure that the anchors are not moving in the concrete.
You can retorque the bolts...but if the anchors are hitting the bottom of the base plate you have a problem. The only way to know is to move the bolts and see if the anchors are against the base plate. Here's a paste from this page: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=71225 (post No. 8)

(this post refers to the MaxJax which uses bolts and flush anchors)
After some consideration I set them at 120" (outside to outside baseplate)

That was good for my cars and I have a Nissan Frontier Pickup and it was good for it also.

I copied and pasted this from another post I made, I had some issues with the anchor installation this might be of help during your install:

Here's the update, I've got the lift installed and running. It looks like a nice unit. The power unit is quieter than I thought it would be. Installation was straight forward.

I think setting of the anchors is the most critical part of the installation procedure. A couple of things I'll mention from my experience of this one installation. Let me say this first, I'm not a pro lift installer and the following are my opinions only. Drill the holes as per instructions. Do a through job of cleaning the holes. Even though the supplied anchors (Wej-It PD58) are not specificly epoxy style units I'd recommend using a good quality epoxy for additional integrity of anchor bond to concrete. I coated the hole and the exterior of anchors before driving them in. Drive them the 5/8" below concrete as instructions call for, I wouldn't go less.

Now thread the sacraficial bolt with washer and nut finger tight into the anchor, hold the bolt head (you do not want the anchor to rotate in the hole) and tighten the nut to set the anchor, the lift instruction booklet says tighen until anchor is flush with the concrete surface.....The instructions that came in the box of anchors say no more than 4 turns for the 5/8" bolts size. I found that at about 3 turns I could feel the anchors bite hard into the concrete even though they were still 1/8" -3/16" below the surface of floor. I think it's fine (and even preferable) to leave them slightly down because when you tighten the bolts to the base plate if the anchor is not holding properly you'll realize it when torquing the bolts, but with the anchor flush it can contact the bottom of the base plate and feel tight even though not fully anchored in the hole.

Page 13 step 14 of the lift installation manual tells you to install anchor bolts to base plate and tighten 3 to 3 3/4 turns. I believe this is in error, the anchors have already been set with the bolt and nut procedure. These bolts should be torqued betweem 70-95 Ft Lbs according to Wej-it (95) and Dannmar (70).

I found it impossible to get 3+ turns after anchors were set and it caused a couple anchors to pull up (perhaps they rotated in the hole and lost grip ?) and I have to replace them.

I like the lift, it will be very useful in my shop.

I hope this is helpful.

 

[Motofixxer]

You should also use the longest level possible 78" or 8' is best

 

[Josh Kinzey]

I'm using wedge anchors, them hitting the bottom of the lift base plate is impossible.

I used a 4 foot level to guide my installation. I had the level on and off the columns probably 40 times during the process, I can't imagine that I put it on the same way everytime. I have more than one level, so I'll check it with others, but I am fairly certain my level is, well, level.

I'll double check square as well. Right now the columns are the same distance apart at the leading and trailing edge of the base plate, but I suppose they could be in the shape of a rhombus.

I will also drop a plumb bob along the columns tonight.

Thanks for all the help guys.

 

[JJay03]

Im thinking about getting this same lift how do you like it so far?

 

[Josh Kinzey]

I like it a lot, no complaints.

 

[JJay03]

Thanks. I was trying to decide between the OH9000 and the 9OHSC. I like that the OH9000 is rated for more weight and that it is direct drive.

 

[yuk]

posts should be as solid as the concrete itself.
greg smith has this online
http://cdn.gregsmithequipment.com/documents/manuals/2postlifts/oh9000_manual.pdf
tells torque etc...
and for wiring
http://cdn.gregsmithequipment.com/documents/manuals/2postlifts/ATLAS_OVERHEAD_WIRING.pdf
they have re-written the installation manual since i was researching. it used to say "4 inch 3000 PSI concrete without steel re-inforcemant". i called and asked them why and they said atlas believed steel made concrete weaker.... so i shopped elsewhere.
I bought a DerekWeaver W9D and have been happy with it.

 

[Josh Kinzey]

The columns are going to flex with a car on them at full rise. Put a car on your lift, or better yet a full size truck, max out the rise, watch the columns and shake the bumper up and down. All lifts, all columns, all flex or wiggle to a certain extent.

When I bought the lift, I was a salesman for CarQuest Auto Parts. After installing my Atlas, I was concerned about the amount of wobble I was getting when shaking a car or truck at full rise. For my job, I was in and out of auto shops all day, so I started shaking lifts when I saw a car up on one. They all wobble to some degree. I shook probably 20 lifts in various buildings, and they all wobble some.

On mine, I was able to reduce the wobble considerably by tightening the anchors daily for a week or so. I found that after I wobbled my lift with a truck on it, I could get a few more degrees (very slight, less than 3 degrees) of tightening rotation on a few of the anchors. This leads me to believe, that even after tightening the anchors to 150 ft. lbs. to set them, then loosening and torquing to 90 ft. Lbs, the concrete was still slightly giving way to the pressure being applied by the anchors.

After repeating the wobble / tighten sequence once or twice a day for several days, the anchors stopped taking torque, and the wobble lessened considerably.

I hit the anchors about once a month now, and haven't had any take torque since I complete the process I've described above. Right now, with my 95 K1500 on the lift, if I shake the bumper, the columns wiggle / wobble approximately 1/4 an inch in either direction. This is considerably less than when I started, and less than nearly any lift I shook during my salesman days at CarQuest.

I did not pour my slab, nor have my concrete tested prior to the install. My slab was thick enough that a 10 inch bit struggled to break out the bottom.

I did the OH lift because I wanted the direct drive.

I have since quit my job at CarQuest and gone out on my own trying to make a living dinking around in the garage. Most of what I do is automotive paint work, but I do enough repair that the lift cycles nearly every day, and I've yet to have a problem.

Good luck, I hope this helps you pull the trigger on a lift, it's one of the few large purchases I've made that I have absolutely no buyers remorse on. Corvette - mostly happy, but still a little buyers remorse. Chevelle - same deal. Firebird - You guessed it, same deal. Giant TV - Yet again. You name it, it seems like there is always a small part of me that feels like the purchase might not have been the best decision. The lift isn't like that at all. I'm 100% happy with it, and I feel like it was a great decision, regardless of brand.

Pull the trigger man, having a lift is awesome.

 

[JJay03]

Thanks for your feedback. My dad restores old cars for a living and I do mechanical work often as a hobby. Soo many times I wished I had a lift that when I finally get one I might be in the garage more then the house.

 

[Josh Kinzey]

If you don't count sleep, I spend more time in the garage than the house.

 

[koditten]

I got the HSC model. I'm happy with it. Yeah, the instructions were ****, fortunately I like a good puzzle.

KO

 

[JJay03]

Picked up the lift today we ended up going with the PV10P.

 

[mythsc281]

Sorry to bring the thread back up. I am about to pull the trigger on a OH9000. Just wanting to hear what yall's thoughts are on the lift and the company.

 

[aka Larry]

I have the GSE Atlas 9000KOH and have no issues. I'd buy it again for sure.

 

[Josh Kinzey]

Still happy with mine, no complaints.

 

[koditten]

Ihave the OHSC900, I think. So far, so good. I love the single point lock reliese.

 

[zollster]

I have a PV10P, great lift, no problems anywhere. On short wheelbases a little pushing back and forth, but it is well worth it. This lift is well built and a good price. And I have had great results with GSE wether on phone or email.

 

[brihvac]

I have the BP900 and love it. I could not imagine working laying on my back anymore. Greg Smith is only 20 minutes from my house. Also I am another one that agrees the instructions are ****.

 

[raceman17]

I also have the Atlas OH900. I have had no issues with this lift. I installed it by myself in less than 4 hrs. Just make sure you blow all the concrete dust out of the holes when you drill for the anchors and use a quality concrete bit.

I really did not have any issues with the instructions. The setup is pretty basic. I put my F350 on the lift a few weeks ago to change the ball joints and it had no issues lifting it all the way to max height. The truck adapters are nice to use too.

 

[aka Larry]

Ihave the OHSC900, I think. So far, so good. I love the single point lock reliese.

I'd like to have that feature too, but for what I paid (ZERO!) I can't complain.

 

[bans25]

I'm using wedge anchors, them hitting the bottom of the lift base plate is impossible.

I used a 4 foot level to guide my installation. I had the level on and off the columns probably 40 times during the process, I can't imagine that I put it on the same way everytime. I have more than one level, so I'll check it with others, but I am fairly certain my level is, well, level.

I'll double check square as well. Right now the columns are the same distance apart at the leading and trailing edge of the base plate, but I suppose they could be in the shape of a rhombus.

I will also drop a plumb bob along the columns tonight.

Thanks for all the help guys.

Where you able to fix the wobble issue or does it still do it?