Installing Fiber Cement Panel Siding

[cls89]

Plan on installing fiber cement panel siding on the garage. Please see link for product details.

I have a few questions.

1. Do I have to remove the old wood siding that is currently on the garage, or can I just go over it? See photo for current siding.

2. If I go over the current siding what’s the easiest way to locate the studs from the outside? Should I layout out the location of the studs on the outside wall before starting the project to ensure fastener goes in the correct location each time?

3. The plan is to lay the boards vertically. I will have to cut about 3ft off each board. I plan on doing this using a circular saw and straight edge. Since this method isn’t as repeatable as using a table saw, there will be some small variation in the overall length of each sheet I cut. This variation will show at the bottom. What’s the best way to deal with this? Just hide with trim at the bottom?






https://www.menards.com/main/build.../primed516x4x10textpan8ng/p-1444450998347.htm


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[ljhhontx]

I'm not a pro but I can tell you from experience, do not put fiber cement to the studs only, I did my garage that way and a hail storm knocked holes in it. Luckily I had not finished inside so I just adhesived some ply scrap to the inside and used concrete patch on the holes and painted, I don't even see them anymore..

 

[KenC]

I would mark the studs before installing the panels. They should be fine over existing plywood. As far as cutting, a good straight edge and sharp blade can cut at straight and accurately as a table saw, maybe more so when you consider the difficulty of crosscutting a big panel like that.

Here is a video on making a saw guide that really works. Better than just a straight edge, not as good, but a lot cheaper than a track saw.
https://www.google.com/search?clien...e+saw+guide#kpvalbx=_TzhhYIiJNprdtAaAxqKADQ21

 

[MushCreek]

They make special blades for cutting that stuff. Doing a lot of it will likely trash your saw due to the clouds of abrasive dust. Speaking of the dust- Don't even think about cutting it with a saw without a good dust mask. It will trash your lungs. I cut a lot of it siding my house.

 

[toolchaser]

Circular saw & straight edge is fine. They make a drip edge/ molding for the bottom edge, if you put that up first & level, it makes the panel instead a 1 person job. The panels are heavy, mine were 4`x 9` full sheet & a bit of a struggle alone. +1 on dust mask when cutting, you don`t want any of that dust getting into your lungs, Silicosis is nothing to mess with. Good luck

 

[jmarkwolf]

I'm seriously considering doing 3 walls of my house in Hardie Board as a multi-year LP (Lousiana Pacific) siding replacement project, myself. These three walls are ground level so minimal ladder work will be required. I'll pay to have the 2 story walls done. Quotes around here are astronomical, so I'm mitigating the cost by doing the easy parts myself.

Consider a shear for doing the cutting of your Hardie Board. No dust, fast and easy, no ruining expensive circular saw blades blades, link below. They're pricey but you will save enough doing the work yourself to justify the cost, plus you can sell it once you're done. Silicosis is no joke.

I'm removing the old siding and plan to find the studs using a magnet to locate the sheeting nails, then mark the studs with a sharpie.

Don't forget any wiring inside. It would be no fun driving nails through romex.

 

[nadogail]

I used Hadie Plank, and the special Hardie saw blade. We nailed it to the visible studs, this job justified the Pneumatic Nail Gun.

 

[cls89]

I used Hadie Plank, and the special Hardie saw blade. We nailed it to the visible studs, this job justified the Pneumatic Nail Gun.

That's the next thing I need to make a decision on. Do I purchase an air compressor and nail gun for this job, or do I nail them by hand.

I've considered buying the 21 gallon harbor freight compressor for a while. It was about $150. Doesn't look like they carry it any more. What would be an appropriate / affordable nail gun for this type of job? Roofing nailer, framing nailer? Recommendations on an affordable compressor that can handle the CFM for this type of job? I don't want to spend too much on the tools. The instructions actually say you can use screws with ribbed wafer head screw. However, I want this to look nice, so nails will provide a more finished look.

 

[cls89]

I'm not a pro but I can tell you from experience, do not put fiber cement to the studs only, I did my garage that way and a hail storm knocked holes in it. Luckily I had not finished inside so I just adhesived some ply scrap to the inside and used concrete patch on the holes and painted, I don't even see them anymore..

I want to put the fiber cement panels over the old paneling. It will save me a lot of time. I just want to confirm there wouldn't be any issues with doing it this way.

 

[cls89]

I would mark the studs before installing the panels. They should be fine over existing plywood. As far as cutting, a good straight edge and sharp blade can cut at straight and accurately as a table saw, maybe more so when you consider the difficulty of crosscutting a big panel like that.

Here is a video on making a saw guide that really works. Better than just a straight edge, not as good, but a lot cheaper than a track saw.
https://www.google.com/search?clien...e+saw+guide#kpvalbx=_TzhhYIiJNprdtAaAxqKADQ21

Thanks for the reply. The only concern with marking the stud locations before installing the panel is that the markings wont be visible. What I mean is, since the fiber cement panel is going to be installed vertically, it will cover the entire height of the garage wall. The layout lines will be hidden by the fiber cement panel and I wont have a visual guide. Should I just measure and fasten as I go? Any advice on a good approach to this type of installation would be appreciated.

 

[yeldogt]

Is that texture 1-11?

That's normally attached to the suds .... If it is T1-11 ... it's the same as sheathing.

What you need to do is figure out any VB issues and follow the directions for installing as if on any new project. It's recommended to make a rain screen .... so it dries. You don't want trapped moisture.

Are you making a B&B look?

 

[cls89]

Is that texture 1-11?

That's normally attached to the suds .... If it is T1-11 ... it's the same as sheathing.

What you need to do is figure out any VB issues and follow the directions for installing as if on any new project. It's recommended to make a rain screen .... so it dries. You don't want trapped moisture.

Are you making a B&B look?

Looking at the spec sheet it doesn't say if the texture is T1-11. It does say that it is installed like conventional wood siding, and that it could be applied over sheathed walls. Would the existing wood paneling that is on the garage be considered sheathing if I go over it with the fiber cement panels? Or do I need to remove the old paneling and apply a vapor barrier and than attach the fiber cement panels to the studs?

I wasn't considering a board and batten look. Is there an advantage to doing board and batten?

 

[KenC]

Thanks for the reply. The only concern with marking the stud locations before installing the panel is that the markings wont be visible. What I mean is, since the fiber cement panel is going to be installed vertically, it will cover the entire height of the garage wall. The layout lines will be hidden by the fiber cement panel and I wont have a visual guide. Should I just measure and fasten as I go? Any advice on a good approach to this type of installation would be appreciated.

I can't see the top clearly in the pic, but I always find some horizontal surface above the panel to mark. Soffiit, even gutter will work. Just carry the marks in/out using a framing square. From that first nail down you can use a level to mark the rest.

 

[cls89]

I can't see the top clearly in the pic, but I always find some horizontal surface above the panel to mark. Soffiit, even gutter will work. Just carry the marks in/out using a framing square. From that first nail down you can use a level to mark the rest.

Great idea. Thanks

 

[cmandp]

The T1-11 yeldogt is referring to is the siding that is on your currently on your building. It just a wood panel with a texture and grooves cut in it. As far as your siding install goes you can proceed like you're going over sheathing as far as the T1-11 goes.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Plytanium-Plywood-Siding-Panel-T1-11-8-IN-OC-Nominal-19-32-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Actual-0-563-in-x-48-in-x-96-in-113699/100000016

 

[cmoist]

My fiber cement board is installed over 3/4 ply sheathing, which really isn't too much different than what you have. If it's t111, it may be thinner. I have house wrap installed between the sheathing and fiber cement board. We also used ring shank nails, not standard nails.

I would heavily advise against hand nailing. Get or rent a roofing nailer and buy collated stainless ring shank nails. It won't take a huge compressor to run it.

Also, for blades, I bought several of these, as they are fairly cheap.
https://www.menards.com/main/tools/...ircular-saw-blade/cb706fc/p-1473344185984.htm

 

[borgdog]

As others have said, yes installing right over what is there now will work great.

I highly recommend shears for cutting instead of a circular saw. Much nicer cuts, much less dust (do not inhale this), much happier installer. I used a circular saw for the first course on my 2-1/2 story cabin, bought this for the rest (the following year) and was much happier. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MUSY6E/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I used a framing nailer and 2" galv ring shank nails with my crappy old craftsman 20gal compressor.

 

[cls89]

I have one more question about the fastener.

The installation instructions say there should be a minimum of 1-1/4” of penetration into the studs. I’m going over the old siding. The old siding and sheathing around probably about 1-1/2” thick. The new fiber cement siding is 5/16” thick. That’s about 1-13/16” of thickness that the nail has to travel through before it reaches the stud. I have a couple of questions about this.

1. The instructions say 1-1/4” of penetration into the stud. Since I’m going over the old siding and sheathing would that old siding and sheathing be considered part of the structure / framing? In other words, would the nail penetration into the old siding and sheathing be just as good as penetration into the studs? Or do I have to get at least 1-1/4 nail penetration into the studs?

2. If I have to get at least 1-1/4” nail penetration into the stud than I basically need a 3 inch long nail. I don’t see any 3 inch long roofing nails (pneumatic). The longest pneumatic roofing nails I can find are 1-3/4” if I have to get the 1-1/4” stud penetration what are some other 3 inch long nails I can use? I would assume the head of the nail needs to sit proud of the surface. If it countersinks it won’t do a good job of holding the 5/16” thick fiber cement siding.


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[NWOhioChevyGuy]

Nail gun is a MUST for installing these type panels. That being said MARK your studs as it will blow the nail through if you miss any backing material.

 

[930dreamer]

Ring shank will stay in forever.

 

[cls89]

Ring shank will stay in forever.

Would something like this be good?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-...nized-Nails-2000-Pack-DWRHS10DR120G/205866586


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[Uncle murph]

Not sure as to the objections to hand nailing,I’ve been installing this stuff for twenty years and use both methods,it’s not even a little bit difficult to hand nail.Hand nailing also lets you know your hitting the studs for certain.

 

[yatg]

They make special blades for cutting that stuff. Doing a lot of it will likely trash your saw due to the clouds of abrasive dust. Speaking of the dust- Don't even think about cutting it with a saw without a good dust mask. It will trash your lungs. I cut a lot of it siding my house.

Also consider a power shear. Virtually no dust. Several brands available, Pactool comes to mind. Have one for tile backerboard and it works great.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MUSY6E/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[MushCreek]

I used a power shear as well. There's a learning curve to get a clean cut. Also, they don't work on thicker trim.

 

[mmb617]

I used to cut a lot of Hardie products in my job. At first I used a circular saw but later got a power shear, which is definitely the way to go. You won't believe the cloud of dust a saw makes while the shear is very clean. If you clamp a guide to the panel and ride the shear along it you get a nice straight cut.

 

[cls89]

I appreciate the advice on the power shear.

Any recommendations on nails? Again looking for something that's about 3 inches long. It needs to go through the old siding which is about 1.5" thick to reach the studs. I assuming the head has to be a specific style to hold the 5/16 inch thick fiber cement siding in place.

 

[cls89]

Circular saw & straight edge is fine. They make a drip edge/ molding for the bottom edge, if you put that up first & level, it makes the panel instead a 1 person job. The panels are heavy, mine were 4`x 9` full sheet & a bit of a struggle alone. +1 on dust mask when cutting, you don`t want any of that dust getting into your lungs, Silicosis is nothing to mess with. Good luck

Where can I get the drip edge / molding for the bottom edge? I need some sort of starter track that the siding panel can sit in and that will help keep the bottom straight


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[WDEagle]

They make a drip edge/ molding for the bottom edge,

Do you happen to have a link to the molding?

 

[WDEagle]

Where can I get the drip edge / molding for the bottom edge? I need some sort of starter track that the siding panel can sit in and that will help keep the bottom straight


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I found these hangers while doing a Google search

Video

 

[Bert_]

I found these hangers while doing a Google search

Video

It's a nice idea. Only problem I see is that you will have a little water sitting between the bracket and the siding. It will start to rot there eventually.

 

[nadogail]

If you are wondering about renting a compressor, stop right now. My compressor is one of the most used tools in my shop. As a matter of fact I own two of them.

 

[nadogail]

I cut my Hardie Planks with my 12” Harbor Freight miter saw using the special blade.

 

[driftpin]

Prices and availability of Hardie-Board are a problem here in Florida.

I went to a shed dealer, I'd bought one several years ago from him, and I asked, "what's delivery time for a 10' X 16' Hardie-Board sided one?" The one I got was bigger. Underlayment is 3/4" plywood, and they use Tyvek-type vapor barrier.

The manufacturer is in GA. They're trucked to so. FL. The dealer said, "the manufacturer cannot get Hardie-Board now, materials shortage. The delivery time for a galvanized steel frame, steel-sided, galvalume roof is four months." When I asked about price if they were able to get Hardie-Board, he said the price was 33% above what I paid three years-ago. This is for a product designed to withstand a three-second gust at 180 mph HVHZ (high-velocity hurricane zone) rating for Florida.

Whatever you decide to do, protect your lungs. Note that there are ratings for respirators, and that the correct one for the work you want to do is going to be more-expensive than your garden-variety respirator. How-valuable to you are your lungs?

 

[Engineer61]

Is the existing sheathing real wood installed over 3/4 sheathing (either plywood or chipboard) - or is it that pressed cardboard/Masonite stuff? If it's the pressed cardboard rip it off before putting up the hardi-board as it will just cause problems as it eventually rots off the building. If it's a solid wood product then you should just be able to nail to it as 3/4 wood siding over 3/4 sheathing will give you the required 1.5" holding depth for your nails everywhere on the building, not just the studs.