Installing refrigerator end panels

[branimal]

I'm working on a kitchen cabinet install where I'm enclosing the fridge with fridge panels. There will be a 33x24x24 fridge cabinet above the fridge. To the right of the fridge (when facing it) there will be a drawer base and a 12" deep upper cabinet. To the left of the fridge will be the end of the kitchen. 3" of wall after the fridge panel is installed. The wall isn't perfectly plumb. An 8' level touches the wall at the top and the bottom, but the wall bows away in the center of the level.

Right side: My drawer base is 24 1/8" off the back wall. Should I just cut my panel at 24 1/8" so I can flush up with the face of the drawer base? My panels are 30"X96". That means I'll have to shim out the over fridge cabinet. I not worried about scribing the wall to the back end of the fridge b/c I'll be installing a tile backsplash.

Left side: Once the over fridge cabinet is installed, I think I just need the left panel to flush up to its front edge. But I also need to scribe the wall b/c the panel is exposed. How do you guys go about scribing the wall and getting the correct panel width? To attach the left panel to the wall and the floor can I use small metal L brackets? This is in addition to screwing the panel to the over fridge cabinet.

Thanks

 

[nadogail]

Are you considering the need for air circulation around the refrigerator?

 

[branimal]

Are you considering the need for air circulation around the refrigerator?

I think the requirement is 1/8” on each side and 1” in the back. The fridge is 32 3/4” wide. So with a 33” wide above fridge cabinet I should be fine.

 

[billconner]

I have similar but on left, I - good or bad - have a wall that comes out 2' so hides that scribe line I think you are asking about.

I'm making panels deep enough so fridge is not tight against wall and plan to run 1x1s in corner against wall. Upper cabinet will be out from wall.

I think you set panel out a fixed distance from wall and mark cut line with a pencil and I'd probably us a block. I'd also mark on fridge side for less chipping of cut edge.

All that if no way to gracefully hide cut edge. I might have added a layer of drywall and a j-bead on that tiny wall projection so edge was behind j-bead, but I generally dislike molding to cover bad joints. Previous owner used 1/4 round everywhere and I'm removing and detailing better cleaner joints.

Hope some help.

 

[Dbn107]

Unless you have a cabinet depth fridge, I would leave the panels full depth or close to it. Will hide more of the fridge sides. Additionally, it will give you a clean surface to die the countertops into. Having a small nub of countertop sticking past the panel is awkward. If your not comfortable scribing the panel tight on the left side, most cab companies offer matching scribe molding. Or if its close and not a super visible area, you can float out the drywall to match the panel.

 

[billconner]

Agree completely with Dbn107 on depth. My panels are 36 and will cut to 33, and totally cover fridge sides. It does mean building an extension to set cabinet over flush with panels, about 8 1/2" from wall.

 

[branimal]

Unless you have a cabinet depth fridge, I would leave the panels full depth or close to it. Will hide more of the fridge sides. Additionally, it will give you a clean surface to die the countertops into. Having a small nub of countertop sticking past the panel is awkward. If your not comfortable scribing the panel tight on the left side, most cab companies offer matching scribe molding. Or if its close and not a super visible area, you can float out the drywall to match the panel.

My fridge is counter depth so the panel pretty much cover's most of the fridges sides. I agree with your point on ending the countertop onto the extended panel.

 

[branimal]

I got the right side fridge panel and over fridge cabinet installed. Everything is level and plumb.

For the left side, I took a scrap piece of fridge panel and clamped it to the wall to see the gap. It's tight at the top and the bottom.

The largest gap is 24 3/8" off the wall and the smallest 24 3/16". Can I cut the panel at 24 3/8" on the table saw, scribe it, and sand down to the scribe line with an random orbital sander?

 

[Thunderpigeon]

Use a belt sander if you have one.

 

[branimal]

I did a test run scribing a melamine scrap piece to the wall. I got the bulk of the excess off with a planer and then went after it with a belt sander. There was some chip out and it's not a great fit. Maybe my scribe tool isn't the greatest. It's just a compass. Maybe I didn't hold it steady.

Another option is to put a small piece of moulding in that corner to cover up the gap. I can color match the paint using a piece of scrap at home depot. And I can HVLP spray that moulding to get a smooth finish. The only issue is the baseboard and crown moulding at the top of the cabinet will look a bit awkward.

 

[16again]

Can you get a thin bead of white caulk on it? Might be the path of least resistance.

 

[branimal]

Can you get a thin bead of white caulk on it? Might be the path of least resistance.

I’m afraid it’s going to be a different color white and stand out.

 

[16again]

I’m afraid it’s going to be a different color white and stand out.

What about quarter round trim? The trim you pictured is not pleasing to my eye.