Insulating My Pole Barn - need help

[TrustJesus]

Hello Guys
I am new to this forum. Here is my situation. I live in Northern, MN. I have a 30x60 pole barn. It is not insulated. I am in the process of insulating the walls and need a little help. I am on a very tight budget and the building is not something that I will be using all the time, only an hour here or there in the winter. The walls are built like this:
1. Outside - Metal Panels -
2. Wood framing (girts? horizontal) attached to 4x6 posts

That's it. I am thinking of simply fitting Expanded Polystyrene Insulation (sytrofoam) inbetween the horizontal girts and then finishing it with drywall. I am wondering if I will have a problem with moisture as the insulation will most likely be in contact with the metal. I do not have the money to buy foam or framing to put up batts.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Steve

 

[Pcoghlan]

Steve, check out my thread. It might be something close to what you are doing...

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=175000

Drywall and insulation is going up as I type. Should be completed by this evening.

Paul

 

[joe_padavano]

I've just done the spray-on foam for a metal shop that I put up. The foam does an excellent job of closing any gaps to prevent entrance of cold air, but there are two things to be aware of. First, the foam is nominally only an inch or so thick - that's the assumed application thickness when they quote coverage. The R-value of this is not very great (like R6 or so). You can apply more, but then (second) is that this stuff is expensive. I'll be spending about $2700 for insulation for my 28x32 shop (walls and ceiling).

The foam panels you mentioned are easy to hang, but don't have the R-value of fiberglass batts. Your call on the cost/effort/benefit trade.

 

[TrustJesus]

Thanks for your help guys. I do appreciate you giving me how you set it up, however I was wondering more or less if my "possible" set up will work.

My plan is to either
A. To fit polystyrene (styrofoam) between the horizontal girts (along the walls) - the polystyrene will be in contact with the metal siding
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B. To nail the polystyrene directly to the horizontal girts (the polystyrene will not be in contact with the metal).

I will then put drywall up along some framing (horizontal framing - not girts) over the polystyrene (the drywall will not be in contact with the polystyrene), there will be an air gap (4-6") between the drywall and polystyrene.

Here are some pictures of the inside of my barn (see PDF attachment)

The plastic area you see is my current work area that I am expanding to be a finished room for work and play (kids).

My question is whether or not I need a vapor barrier with either option?

 

[40cpe]

I'm no expert, so I'm just throwing this out. How about putting the polystyrene
over the inside of the girts, keeping it away from your metal. Then put the drywall directly over the poly and screw through the poly into the girts.

 

[Architorture]

I'm no expert, so I'm just throwing this out. How about putting the polystyrene
over the inside of the girts, keeping it away from your metal. Then put the drywall directly over the poly and screw through the poly into the girts.

i agree. this will allow you to use full sheets of EPS which will reduce seams thus reducing potential air infiltration. it will also give some space for any moisture trapped between the foam and panel to escape...although i don't expect this to be a big issue assuming the metal panel isn't allowing large amounts of moisture into the building to begin with. the taped foam board will be an effective moisture barrier for any interior moisture heading toward the cold exterior.

 

[RalloZ35]

I am trying to do the same thing, but I am planning to screw 2x4's vertically to the girts then putting sheets of EPS in between the vertical beams. I have 2x6's going at 45 degrees in front of the girts. Should I just screw EPS to girts to have less seems? Then use 2.5-3'' screws threw the sheet to hold up plywood walls? thanks.

 

[Highbeam]

The foam panels you mentioned are easy to hang, but don't have the R-value of fiberglass batts. Your call on the cost/effort/benefit trade.

You miswrote are are mistaken. 2" of foam has an R value of 10 so 5 per inch. 5.5" fiberglass batts are R-19, so way less than 4 per inch. Foam boards are superior to batts in terms of R-value per thickness.

Lots of ways to insulate a pole barn. I also have a 30x60 but I chose to build and tip up framed walls between my posts. The framing is 16" OC and I used 2x6 lumber. It is just like a house now. Insulate using house insulation products.

 

[bigguns69]

Look up some of my old posts. I have done what you are doing already, with pictures. 1 1/2" Styrofoam in between the exterior girts, house wrap, then 6" x 6' x 15' batt insulation hung from the exterior girts using long screws between poles, interior girts, OSB.

 

[RalloZ35]

So you put foam insulation between the girt and the tin?

 

[RalloZ35]

Nevermind, I see what you mean, I really don't think I need that much insulation, I don't plan on spending that much time in there, would I like to have that much insulation? Yes, but I don't have the money to throw at it. So my plan is to just do 1 1/2'' EPS. I will need house wrap too I suppose, correct?

 

[Highbeam]

You don't need house wrap.

 

[RalloZ35]

Would r6 be enough for 2 exterior walls?